In the meanwhile, do you suppose there is a chance that the wicking material might influence aldehyde production ? I ask because i believe there was a study earlier using cigalikes that didn't emit aldehydes in comparable amounts amounts to CE4's.
When i first started vaping it was with V2's a well known cigalike.Being a curious sort it wasn't long
before I was on the net googling this and that to find out what other brands were out here.
I found very many different cigalike vendors on the net back in 2013. I perused a lot of vendor
sites and read up on everything I could. I payed particular attention when it was mentioned
how does your e-cigarette work. It's a mater of proper wicking,viscosity and coil temperature.
The key is water. Added water in the right amount gives a desired viscosity between different
batches of PG.(not much talk of vg back then) Its gives the juice the ability to produce as intended
even in very arid conditions. It is also what made cigalikes work. With a set resistance in the coil
and, limited battery capacity there was simply no way to aerosolized the base mix any other way.
Sonic vibraters were in use in prototypes but were quite expensive.
In the transitional phase from liquid to gas water starts visibly evaporating at about 184 degrees F
before boiling. Optimum evaporation occurs at about 196 degrees F. That's why coils in
cigalikes rarely get above about 230 degrees F. You don't have to boil the water, just excite
it enough to reach optimum pre boiling evaporation to atomize the base and,your lungs do the rest.
During this time ego style devices were being introduced and a lot of experimenting was going
on. Ego styles had a little more power and juice capacity but still were based on the same principal.
On the other hand experimenters and vendors figured out if you drop the resistance of the coil
amperage increases and with that the heat flux of the coil which speeds up vapor production.
( this pre VV or VW or the very beginning of these types)
You still want to maintain about 196 degrees F but you want it accelerated to produce more
vapor quicker. And this is where proper wicking comes in. The wicking has to be able to maintain
enough flow to keep the process going. When there is not enough water to properly atomize the
base it will start heating as it is not being dispersed away form the coil quickly or efficiently enough.This is when dry hits and or overheated vapor heads south very fast.
Today the basics a still the same. Compare the size of a coil from your standard cloud
mod to one out of a Greensmoke cartridge. Bigger is better (maybe) but there are still
limits. Proper flow to the coil is the key. The trouble is there are so many different
types of atomizers,tanks,coils and power settings it confounds the results in many
cases to those that one expects.
I have read many times on this forum the complaints from those using sub ohm mods,
soaking the wick with straight vg and getting dry hits. There is a reason for that.
you do not want to heat VG to the transitional phase before boiling,let alone actually
boil it.

Regards
Mike