Eleaf iStick 100w TC
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Have you done the update yet? It fixed all my issues. It does a lot more than upgrade to 120w.
It's doing that because 1) SS is still the most finicky material to use in temperature control because of its minute change in resistance over heat applied (tcr). 2) temp control in general requires a very stable connection and and strong consistent conductivity between contact points.
An rba section of a tank is hardly the ideal example of #2 above.
Anyway, my istick does the same sometimes and what I do is pulse fire the button in one second increments to slightly heat the wire before I take a full hit so the chip can have more time/chances to sense the resistance change so it doesn't kick you back to VW. Try it. It works on my RX200, iStick, Presa TC100. They all use the same chip anyway.
Thanks guys, I did the upgrade to the 120 watts and saw no difference in performance. I tried the pulse fired method JJ and that didn't work either.
Does anyone else have this problem with a Gemini RTA? It doesn't sit flush but on the RX200 which has the same 510 it does. Almost a 1/4" gap.
Not sure as all they say on the site is that it upgrades to 120. I was using the stock NI200 setting and it was terrible/unusable. Tried custom TCRs and it was a bit better but not temp control like my evic VTC mini. I did the upgrade and the stock NI200 mode was perfect like my VTC. It's worth it.
how do you force this thing to recognize a new coil when in SS mode? ive only seen it ask me once over quite of few different coils and i cant figure out how to reproduce that action.
It will only ask if there's a huge difference in resistance. If you are wanting to lock in a resistance for a new atty just make sure it's unlocked fire it with no atty then put your atomizer on. It will interpret the new resistance and you can choose to lock in at that point if you want.
It still won't ask if it's a new coil if the one atty screwed on the "empty firing" is close enough to the new atty. Annoying as even a .01 difference can make difference... What I usually do is screw on and fire an atty with a very different resistance, before screwing on the atty I actually want to use.
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you mean the up/down buttons are unlocked or the resistance is unlocked?
ya, if its close its a no/go. i will have to try this.
this didnt work for me for some reason.
The easiest cause is mistakenly using non-TC wire. The mod senses the lack of resistance rise and kicks out of TC mode.
A more annoying common cause is a loose connection somewhere in the circuit... user accessible possibilities include post screws and atty center pins. Or shorting the coil. Damaged insulators or gaskets, coil touching where it shouldn't. That sort of thing.
Anything that can cause a drop or jump in resistance will bork the TC calculations.
And the mod will kick out.
<--this. And also because SS is still the least stable of materials to use with the current TC technology.
What build do you have?? Is it a subohm tank? An rda? An rta? There are so many factors.
I chiefly build SS fused claptons in my rdas and they tend to bounce out of TC in all my wismec/joyetech TC mods and even once in a blue moon in my DNA200 just because of the complexity of the wire and the instability of SS in temperature control at the moment.
Try this:
- Remove old coil while in TC mode
- Unlock resistance
- Empty fire (hold down until no atomizer message goes away)
- Power off
- Power on
- Cycle to power mode
- Screw in new atty
- Cycle back to TC mode
- Hit the fire button
- You should get the new coil message
- Press up, lock new resistance
Use a metal spacer like thisDoes anyone else have this problem with a Gemini RTA? It doesn't sit flush but on the RX200 which has the same 510 it does. Almost a 1/4" gap.
That's how i make my gemini sits flush
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