Eleaf iStick : part 2

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LynnNC

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Well, *I* want to hear and I hope you love it -- Selfishly, I let you guys try everything new, work out the kinks, and then help me, the slacker. And you're so sweet, YOU DO!:wub:
For instance -- the rebuilt coils you sent -- my "Daft Spunk" juice has never tasted this good. It's actually sinful. And don't even get me started on Peanut Butter Cookie.
:blush: Thanks! I try to do right...
 

tiburonfirst

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Well, *I* want to hear and I hope you love it -- Selfishly, I let you guys try everything new, work out the kinks, and then help me, the slacker. And you're so sweet, YOU DO!:wub:
For instance -- the rebuilt coils you sent -- my "Daft Spunk" juice has never tasted this good. It's actually sinful. And don't even get me started on Peanut Butter Cookie.

hmm, i might have to make a stop across the border anyhow! ;)

btw - found this and thought it was rather good:

Now, let's talk temperature: what to set it at?

Let's kill one myth right away: dry cotton chars at 420F, yes. But even the dryest cotton wick that has juice left in it it is wet enough to withstand a lot more than that. Forget about the burning temperature of cotton, it doesn't matter one bit.

PG and VG don't vaporize at the same temperature. PG turns into a gas at around 380F, and doesn't break down into nasty chemicals when you overheat it. VG vaporizes at around 350F, but more importantly, breaks down and turns into harmful acrolein at around 520F. As for flavorings, well, who knows... VG also needs a higher temperature to generate the same amount of vapor density as PG. PG also tends to "snap, crackle and pop" in the atomizer, while VG doesn't.

All juices are a mix of PG and VG (unless you vape pure PG or pure VG). So you'll want to dial a temperature between 400 and 500F depending on your particular juice. Why these values? because the DNA40 has a +-10F temperature measurement tolerance, to which I personally add another +-10F for safety - so +-20F.

For what it's worth, I personally dial 410F for pure PG juice, and and 480F for pure VG juice. But it's not really critical: 410F for pure PG juice gives me just the right amount of "snap, crackle and pop", and 480F gives me a thick, dense, flavorful vape with pure VG.

On top of that, the state of the coil also plays a role in its ability to transfer heat to the juice: a clean coil readily heats up the juice, while a dirty coil tends to overheat and transfer less heat to the juice. The gunk on the wire acts as a heat insulator. So if your coil is very dirty, you'll want to jack up the temperature to get the same density of vapor - without going over 500F, for obvious safety reasons. If you can't get a satisfying vape at 500F, it's high time to dry-burn the coil and re-wick it. But you'll do it well before that happens, believe me: the taste and vapor production will be quite underwhelming

:)Set the temperature to whatever gives you the best flavor/vapor density for a given power level, provided you don't go over 500F. If you stay under 500F, I can guarantee you your cotton won't burn and will stay nice and clean for a long time - unless the juice itself starts coloring it.
 

rks1949

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Once you go to TC,it's hard to go back to Kanthal!:blink: My Mods that run VW are starting to get dust on them,sitting on the shelf. I've found by using the temp setting I can "dial" in the vapor/flavor I want better than with just using VW.:) I've got juices that I thought were terrible,that taste great using TC now. I'm not saying that I couldn't achieve the same with VW going a .1watt at a time,but that it is so much easier to just dial the temp in and forget it! With a RDA it's a "no brainer"!:D Just vape until the wicks are dry,and pocket the device,or refill it. No more burnt cotton! 003 (9).JPG 004 (5).JPG 002 (21).JPG
 

Cheechako

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Well, *I* want to hear and I hope you love it -- Selfishly, I let you guys try everything new, work out the kinks, and then help me, the slacker. And you're so sweet, YOU DO!:wub:
For instance -- the rebuilt coils you sent -- my "Daft Spunk" juice has never tasted this good. It's actually sinful. And don't even get me started on Peanut Butter Cookie.
The proof of the pudding...
Recoiling the Air tanks is a whole new level of vape goodness! ;)
 

Bikenstein

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Once you go to TC,it's hard to go back to Kanthal!:blink: My Mods that run VW are starting to get dust on them,sitting on the shelf. I've found by using the temp setting I can "dial" in the vapor/flavor I want better than with just using VW.:) I've got juices that I thought were terrible,that taste great using TC now. I'm not saying that I couldn't achieve the same with VW going a .1watt at a time,but that it is so much easier to just dial the temp in and forget it! With a RDA it's a "no brainer"!:D Just vape until the wicks are dry,and pocket the device,or refill it. No more burnt cotton!View attachment 473316 View attachment 473317 View attachment 473318
Of course you can..:) Where's everybody at today?
 

TrollDragon

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Once you go to TC,it's hard to go back to Kanthal!:blink: My Mods that run VW are starting to get dust on them,sitting on the shelf. I've found by using the temp setting I can "dial" in the vapor/flavor I want better than with just using VW.:) I've got juices that I thought were terrible,that taste great using TC now. I'm not saying that I couldn't achieve the same with VW going a .1watt at a time,but that it is so much easier to just dial the temp in and forget it! With a RDA it's a "no brainer"!:D Just vape until the wicks are dry,and pocket the device,or refill it. No more burnt cotton!View attachment 473316 View attachment 473317 View attachment 473318
The problem is I run with a Rose, the FeV and either the Origenny or Nextgen daily so I would need 3 TC units to keep me covered. I just know that once I had TC on one atty, I would want it on all of them. :(
 

rks1949

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The problem is I run with a Rose, the FeV and either the Origenny or Nextgen daily so I would need 3 TC units to keep me covered. I just know that once I had TC on one atty, I would want it on all of them. :(
Yes it would,but I run a lot of different devices on my VF (not to derail this thread). As more TC mods become available,the price will come down. The sweet spot for a DNA 40 is (for me anyway) around 0.15 to 0.18 ohms. Changing from a RTA to a RDA just requires a temp adjustment. The istick sounds like a simple TC mod to get into TC vaping with,I bet it will be a big seller for eleaf.
 

Bikenstein

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Yes it would,but I run a lot of different devices on my VF (not to derail this thread). As more TC mods become available,the price will come down. The sweet spot for a DNA 40 is (for me anyway) around 0.15 to 0.18 ohms. Changing from a RTA to a RDA just requires a temp adjustment. The istick sounds like a simple TC mod to get into TC vaping with,I bet it will be a big seller for eleaf.
Are you usin nickel or titanium?
 

rks1949

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Are you usin nickel or titanium?
I use nickel. I've never tried titanium? I do like the flavor I get with nickel wire though,it taste a little "cleaner" than Kanthal,to me anyway. The coils also don't gunk up as fast,with my sweet juices.
 

Bikenstein

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I use nickel. I've never tried titanium? I do like the flavor I get with nickel wire though,it taste a little "cleaner" than Kanthal,to me anyway. The coils also don't gunk up as fast,with my sweet juices.
Low temps and high temps are coil gunkers. When you maintain a consistent vaping temp your coils will burn cleaner. I haven't tried ti wire but some say it beats nickel for clean taste. So far I haven't found a major gain to the flavor of using nickel over kanthal.
 

gerrymi

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When my SX Mini goes into temp protection, I lower the power a bit and it stops. It doesn't need to overshoot the temp setting too much or it will go into temp protection instead of just normally regulation.

The TC40W runs at 40W all the time in TC mode and is not adjustable,

Everyone says that if it is hitting protection then just turn up the temperature till it stops

On the TC40W...when the screen shows "Temperature Protection"...does the mod quit firing?

Or...does the TC40W continue firing...and the "Temperature Protection" just indicates that the set temperature has been reached?
 

Stosh

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On the TC40W...when the screen shows "Temperature Protection"...does the mod quit firing?

Or...does the TC40W continue firing...and the "Temperature Protection" just indicates that the set temperature has been reached?

If it works properly in TC when it get to the "Temperature Protection" it should continue firing, BUT at much reduced wattage, just enough watts to maintain the temperature while the airflow is cooling the coil. With wide open airflow it may need 7-10 watts to maintain, tootle puffing may only need 1-2 watts, it adjusts automatically.
 

Bikenstein

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On the TC40W...when the screen shows "Temperature Protection"...does the mod quit firing?

Or...does the TC40W continue firing...and the "Temperature Protection" just indicates that the set temperature has been reached?
If you are hitting temp protection every vape, you need to adjust your settings and build.
 

GeorgeS

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    I hit TC on every vape - just like it SHOULD be.

    While the TC40W does seem to read high and run low, once a setting (ignore the "F" or "C" value) 'sweet spot' is found it appears to deliver consistent vapor - hit after hit.

    I've tried three different tanks: STM, Atlantis2 and Lemo2 (with multiple different coils in the RTM's) and the TC40 seems to do its job. I've been running ~80F higher on the TC40 than my other TC mods.

    Given that someone did the "dry cotton test" with the TC40 and was unable to damage the dry cotton at even 600F and I plan to only use RTA's on the iStick, I'm not to worried if the TC40 actually does damage my wick.

    I love the size, weight, cost and formfactor. While the overly optimistic temperature might be hint as to the low vapor production market the device was designed/intended for, I plan on using mine every day.
     
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