Eleaf iStick "pico"

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trentenmarschel

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I managed to 'pull out' my usb port on 1 of my Pico's using a 'tight charger cable in my car on my road trip.
when I get time I will try to re-attach it :(
Are the wires still attached to the charging port? If not then you might have to find a soldering iron. Not sure how they attach those. If you are very lucky there might be slide connectors on it.
 
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kross8

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Are the wires still attached to the charging port? If not then you might have to find a soldering iron. Not sure how they attach those. If you are very lucky there might be slide connectors on it.
i havent taken it apart yet.. i saw the port assy on the wire after i tried to charge it and nothing 'clicked into place'.........its ok for now,, i will have to solder it back on at some point,, and i will likely buy some extra ports once i get a better view of it. right now i cant find my s-iron so i dont want to mess with it. it works fine,,, just have to battery swap instead.
 

Fozzy71

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I managed to 'pull out' my usb port on 1 of my Pico's using a 'tight charger cable in my car on my road trip.
when I get time I will try to re-attach it :(
The good news is from what I saw when I epoxied one of mine back together the board and usb should be easy to access from the base plate. You will need a T5 torx bit.
 
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Fozzy71

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i havent taken it apart yet.. i saw the port assy on the wire after i tried to charge it and nothing 'clicked into place'.........its ok for now,, i will have to solder it back on at some point,, and i will likely buy some extra ports once i get a better view of it. right now i cant find my s-iron so i dont want to mess with it. it works fine,,, just have to battery swap instead.
I have never usb charged mine, only used that for firmware update and logo tinkering.
 

kross8

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thanks
The good news is from what I saw when I epoxied one of mine back together the board and usb should be easy to access from the base plate. You will need a T5 torx bit.
thanks Fozzy,,you dont happen to remember if you saw a slide usb or a soldered one do you?
 

Fozzy71

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thanks

thanks Fozzy,,you dont happen to remember if you saw a slide usb or a soldered one do you?
I did not pull anything all the way out. The base plate is actually connected to the board, etc with a soldered wire (ground perhaps?) and it was a trick to get the epoxy spread around the lips so I could jerry rig it back together to be able to get more use out of it.
 
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kross8

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I have never usb charged mine, only used that for firmware update and logo tinkering.
i have no desire to mess with the software,, it works just fine as is. if i had the option to change it,, then i would be changing crap all of the time.......kinda weird that way ... i need to keep my ocd'ness on my other obsessions :cool:
 
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Fozzy71

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i have no desire to mess with the software,, it works just fine as is. if i had the option to change it,, then i would be changing crap all of the time.......kinda weird that way ... i need to keep my ocd'ness on my other obsessions :cool:
I like the updated display for wattage mode in the new firmware (much bigger battery indicator). The new 'Smart' mode sounds interesting too if you change atomizers with different ohm coils often but I mostly use TC mode so I haven't messed with the smart mode yet.
 

TrollDragon

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i havent taken it apart yet.. i saw the port assy on the wire after i tried to charge it and nothing 'clicked into place'.........its ok for now,, i will have to solder it back on at some point,, and i will likely buy some extra ports once i get a better view of it. right now i cant find my s-iron so i dont want to mess with it. it works fine,,, just have to battery swap instead.
Judging by @eiraku's pictures, the USB port looks to be a vertical mount version. You'll need a really fine tip on your iron for that since it is probably SMT as well. Hopefully it's through hole and easier to change.
USB 2.0 connectors | USB Connector | GCT

eiraku's post:
Eleaf iStick "pico"
 
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kross8

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I like the updated display for wattage mode in the new firmware (much bigger battery indicator). The new 'Smart' mode sounds interesting too if you change atomizers with different ohm coils often but I mostly use TC mode so I haven't messed with the smart mode yet.
i run watts only,, every time (by accident) that i was on tc,,,,,,i felt like i was cooking my juice and or lips lol. (yeah, i know i was doing something wrong,, and i will have to learn quite a few things when i jump into mech mods)
 

kross8

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TrollDragon

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Ceramic at 60W is quite nice!
elS1b9Fh.jpg
 

kross8

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You are most welcome and good luck with the fix!
earlier today i had filled my amazon cart with a variety of usb ports,,,,,,,,,,,and i was willing to tear apart an old phone if need be to steal the usb port.

this whole affair just confirms to me that i will be saving my broken mods for parts.
 

TrollDragon

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earlier today i had filled my amazon cart with a variety of usb ports,,,,,,,,,,,and i was willing to tear apart an old phone if need be to steal the usb port.

this whole affair just confirms to me that i will be saving my broken mods for parts.
I have a big box full of junk boards that I salvage parts from all the time. :thumbs:
 
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Fozzy71

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i run watts only,, every time (by accident) that i was on tc,,,,,,i felt like i was cooking my juice and or lips lol. (yeah, i know i was doing something wrong,, and i will have to learn quite a few things when i jump into mech mods)

The default in TC mode is full 75w pre-heat so you have to click the fire button 4 times and lower the watts to the proper range for your coil then click the button once to set the watts. Then you use the up/down buttons on the base to adjust the temp. Make sure you have TC compatible coil and set the proper TC mode for the coil material.
 
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