I was actually thinking about that as well. The red from VT looked to be fully charged when I got it so, I have not charged it yet. I will put all of these on the charger just to be sure before testing them again.
Eleaf Istick
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I was actually thinking about that as well. The red from VT looked to be fully charged when I got it so, I have not charged it yet. I will put all of these on the charger just to be sure before testing them again.
Will a in-100-240v and out-5v wall adapter work with the istick? I didn't get one in the box, but I have several of these laying around.
Agreed, I can put anything I have on the Istick built @ 1ohm, with cotton and have no issues at all anywhere within its power range. I normally build most of my RBAs about .8, but have been rebuilding now slightly over 1 ohm so they'll fire on the Istick, and have yet to run into any issues.
About the only thing I've had any issues with on the Istick is some 1.6 ohm BVC coils in the Nautilus when I use high VG juice they don't wick well enough if I go over 10 watts. Even the 1.6 ohm Boge cartos have no issues @12 watts.
Here are some shots of the 510 connector of the Istick dissected, not the greatest quality here, I believe the spring loaded Fatdaddy 510 would fit in its place (pictured), would sure make for a much better connection. The small rubber insulator is pretty fragile, just pulling it apart left it somewhat less than whole. Thinking this is what is the issue, and will probably be an issue for many in the future.
.../...
Mmmm....
My bet is just on the no-go side. It seems that there is not enough space to put a Fatdaddy's 510, not without touching the PCB. Actually, it will cross over the firing actuator for the PCB....
If you set it flush with the top plate, there is not enough place underneath the plate.
But you can search for a spacer or washer in SS or aluminum, about 18 mm external diameter and 10 mm internal, and about 3 - 5 mm height, even with the M10x1 threads prepared for the Fatdaddy's. It won't appear as flushed, though, but it could be the most resilient 510 conector possible for the iStick.
Which brings me again to the 'too cramped things inside' question. It is part of its magic, but it renders difficult for DIY-ers to fix it if anything goes wrong. Like the not-so-reliable 510's.... or the battery, whereas it is a 18650 without the metal envelope or a genuine LiPo which happens to be '18650-ed'...
I wonder if, due to the high success of the appliance, someone (in China, of course) is warming up their capitalist neurons to prepare a entire line of spares... you know, here it is a top plate with Fatdaddy's....there it is a bottom plate with 18650 receptacle.... there you go a entire clone with Fatdaddy-style, user-serviceable 18650 and corrected power calculation.....let's say about $30?.......
I know, $40 is not worthy enough the effort, but in my case, the equivalent 36€?..... it is.....
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I have read numerous places about the Erlkonigin being difficult to build, Just don't understand how that is. Maybe it is experience, but I've had mine for a while now, and honestly find it one of the easiest atomizers I have to build. The deck layout is perfect, very easy to trap the wires, I use the same size micro coil as I use in any of my kayfun builds. Really the only difference is that I cut the cotton on about a 45 degree angle. It has been flawless from the first build, perfect saturation/wicking, no gurgling, or flooding, great flavor. All from a $20 clone.
Still feel it is the perfect RBA for the Istick. I know a some others in this thread have purchased it, I'm looking forward to reports on how it works for them.
As for the Fatdaddy 510, I think it would fit. profile wise is very close the fatdaddy 510 also has a shorty version, going to order one of those to check out. Routing and attachment of the wire should allow for clearance enough for the standard switch assembly in the Istick. I probably will not use the standard electronics in the Istick, I have a plan, hopefully in the next couple weeks it will come together.
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Yes they are interchangeable, and my experience with the Nautilus BDC was they suck, every one I used, one of the two coils burned out within a few days, even with reduced voltage. I definitely had very poor luck with the Aspire Nautilus BDC, So far the BVC has held up extremely well, and I've yet to replace one. I don't use the Nautilus very often, but so far for me the BVC coils are FAR superior to the BDC, both performance, and longevity.
ANY USB power supply will work, as long as it has the proper micro-USB end (so-called micro type B) for the iStick:
Of course, it should meet your local AC current specification (plug and voltage, accounting even cars with their 12/24 VDC lighter supplies...
), but usually all domestic supplies have a 110 - 240 VAC input, so it's more about the plug (USA, UK, European....), and, for better perfomance (less charging time) it should give at least 1,0 A (1000 mA) of output. So, with 1 A o more you will charge the iStick at 1 A (about 2 hours charging time from fully depleted battery).The 0,5 A (500 mA) USB power supplies are just a thing from the USB specification, to which adhere most in-board chargers (like those on Vaporshark and Hana and alike), but it is now being re-written once tablets, bigger phones and other appliances (like iStick itself) are able to draw more than 0,5 A to suit its needs.
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Yes, just be sure you get the Aspire Nautilus BVC coils. They also have Aspire BVC coils, which do not work with the Nautilus or Nautilus Mini.
It's not much different than building a KFL+. You just have to be more careful with the wicks. The KFL+ is much more forgiving. I like the glass on the Lemo and that's my main issue with KFL's and clones (not having a good option for glass/pyrex over PMMA). I did order a few PMMA mid sections and full tank replacements (5 ea) from Fasttech since I already had one mid-section crack from a friut blend sample from MBV. The extra 1mm on the Lemo might push the limit on how big you'd go on an Istick though. 22mm tanks just barely fits on the Istick with .5mm overhang on the sides and maybe 2mm on the button side. I actually like the overhand above the button but wouldn't want it on the sides which is one of the reasons why I ordered a Erlkonigin.
Yes. Pretty much any microUSB cable/adapter (like phone chargers) will work.
It might be easier to coil the Erl than the KFL+. Can't wait to get mine. Thanks for spending my money
I got several of these from VT yesterday. So far, I have only tried one. It actually goes down to 4W and it does not hit near as hard as my original that I got from Eleaf
I will report back once try the rest that I got from VT.
That sound to me a lot as 'once it gets used for awhile, it settles down the power', which you can read a (zillion) posts above..... something that left me really intrigued, when not truly mesmerized....
No-one has said that anymore, and now, if I understood you well, you've found two iSticks which hit different at the same atty and wattage (I presume).
And regarding the battery status, everybody has reported a steady power output regardless the battery state (if it is up to the task, of course....
), so those differences cannot be linked to it.....Come on! Could it be just a minor difference by subjective appreciation? Just thinking out loud.....
ANY USB power supply will work, as long as it has the proper micro-USB end (so-called micro type B) for the iStick:
Of course, it should meet your local AC current specification (plug and voltage, accounting even cars with their 12/24 VDC lighter supplies...
The 0,5 A (500 mA) USB power supplies are just a thing from the USB specification, to which adhere most in-board chargers (like those on Vaporshark and Hana and alike), but it is now being re-written once tablets, bigger phones and other appliances (like iStick itself) are able to draw more than 0,5 A to suit its needs.
Thanks, that's the info I was looking for! The ones I have (checked them all) are 500mA out. But it looks like I'll do better grabbing a 1A for it, though this one will work for now.
Yes, as long as you get the Nautilus BVC coils. Aspire makes another bvc coil for their other devices, just make sure you get the ones for the Nautilus and you will be good.
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PC is polycarbonate, neither PC or PMMA tanks are free from the dangers of your typical "tank cracking" juice. My experience has been very little difference in the two materials. I've only had issues a couple times, and they were when I just wasn't thinking.
PC: Polycarbonate polymer (Polycarbonate - Wikipedia, the free encyclopedia).
Not to be confused with PMMA (Poly(methyl methacrylate, Poly(methyl methacrylate) - Wikipedia, the free encyclopedia).
Both are 'beyond the polyethylene and polypropilene' polymers with some advantages for some applications. Both are manufactured with high, not-so-high and poor qualities. Nearly impossible to grasp which one applies here.
Generally speaking, any e-liquid should work fair, just the menthols and alike are problematic in those materials. And of course, as a boron-silica glass (i.e. Pyrex) nothing beats it in chemical endurance, but also nothing breaks apart easier.......more or less.....
I was under the impression that the slower the better for recharging batteries.
Every plastic tank I've ever had retained flavor/aroma to some degree. I only use glass tanks and silicon o'rings
PC: Polycarbonate polymer (Polycarbonate - Wikipedia, the free encyclopedia).
Not to be confused with PMMA (Poly(methyl methacrylate, Poly(methyl methacrylate) - Wikipedia, the free encyclopedia).
Both are 'beyond the polyethylene and polypropilene' polymers with some advantages for some applications. Both are manufactured with high, not-so-high and poor qualities. Nearly impossible to grasp which one applies here.
Generally speaking, any e-liquid should work fair, just the menthols and alike are problematic in those materials. And of course, as a boron-silica glass (i.e. Pyrex) nothing beats it in chemical endurance, but also nothing breaks apart easier.......more or less.....
In my experience, menthol is just fine in PC. The problems are found with citrus and hot cinnamon (tank cracking).
http://www.e-cigarette-forum.com/fo...ices-flavors-crack-tanks-ce2s-clearos-24.html
(list in post #473)
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While this is certainly the case with juice flavors like Pluid, any noticeable retention with your average flavors is extremely minimal, hell I can put Pluid in an all glass/stainless RBA and have a helluva time getting it completely out. I prefer Pyrex myself, but a GOOD wash will get rid of all evidence of your average juice, even in Plastic tanks. Now you may have a nose like my Avatar, or hyper sensitive taste buds, but your average person will not notice any remnants with proper maintenance even with PC/PMMA tanks.
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