Eleaf Istick

[froginblender]

istick fail after 2 weeks of use

Well my istick is gonna be on it's way back to Avid Vapor for a replacement.
had problems with any ego type tanks with the connection, always having to play with coil or tightness of tank to get it to work.
Then sometime yesterday , the button is just a pain in the ... to get that to fire.
I mean I had to push that thing with everything i had to get it to fire.

With 2 what i would consider pretty big problems, seems like this thing just isn't made all that great.

Worked great first 5 days. then connection issues, now fire button problem.

Hope this was just a lemon. But i'm guessing just made kinda crappy internally that is.

 

[Jayscuzzi]

istick fail after 2 weeks of use

Well my istick is gonna be on it's way back to Avid Vapor for a replacement.
had problems with any ego type tanks with the connection, always having to play with coil or tightness of tank to get it to work.
Then sometime yesterday , the button is just a pain in the ... to get that to fire.
I mean I had to push that thing with everything i had to get it to fire.

With 2 what i would consider pretty big problems, seems like this thing just isn't made all that great.

Worked great first 5 days. then connection issues, now fire button problem.

Hope this was just a lemon. But i'm guessing just made kinda crappy internally that is.

It's nice you bought from a place with a decent return policy.

 

[drysprocket]

It's nice you bought from a place with a decent return policy.

Yeah, thank god. I too hope they fix the button....I'd even like to see it round, and more of a traditional mod style.

 

[dwg64]

Got pink/red and blue ones to go with the original silver. One thing I noticed is that the buttons on the two new ones feel a bit stiffer and less clicky than on the first.
I did get occasional mis-fires with the original, I wonder if the button change is in response to that issue?

No issues with the treading on any of them, they feel smooth and seem to be accurately machined

I thought the same thing about my new silver one. Not nearly as clicky as my first 2.


Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk

 

[froginblender]

It's nice you bought from a place with a decent return policy.

Glad to hear that they do have a decent return policy. I've bought from them before, never really had to ever send anything back to them.
I'm bummed, i really really enjoyed the power, ease of use with menu, and most of all it's size.

 

[emmsma]

Hoping you can get it replaced soon, with a good working stick that will not give you any more trouble.

Sent from my SCH-S968C

 

[IMRs]

Good to hear. I have a glass Evod on the way. I had high hopes the dual coil would work well on the stick. I have a knockoff Protank3 that doesn't make connection. Hate that thing. I'd the dual coil glass Evod works well I thin it'll be my main topper for the stick.

i am finding I don't like large tanks. They are more problematic for me. The glass is unprotected, and top heavy.

Thanks for posting this.

Your're welcome! I like smaller also so I can just throw it in my pocket while at work. Try and keep the wattage down low though, because it heats up pretty fast,

 

[olscratchy]

Does anyone have a solution for the bad connection issue? occasionally I have to loosen my mini protank 3 & aero mega or it wont work? any ideas?

 

[Katya]

Those work well:

Circuit Board Spacer

Circuit board spacers from Madvapes.

 

[scaredmice]

Does anyone have a solution for the bad connection issue? occasionally I have to loosen my mini protank 3 & aero mega or it wont work? any ideas?

It's been commented before, the 510 conection of the iStick is more or less the same of an eGo or a MVP. The threads are drilled on the botton plate, in a receptacle (see photos in just two or three pages before), and the brass positive pole is insulated from them with a rubber or silicon grommet or tube, there is nothing more, nothing less.

Some protuding central pole on some of your atomizers has sunk the central positive pole, and in that case two things might happen: i) another of your atomizers cannot reach the central pole; ii) that central pole touches the receptacle, behind it, which is connected to the negative (ground), so it'll get the 'Check atomizer' or 'Short' messages.

As in ego's, you can, carefully (I'll say it again, carefully!) rise up the central pole usind a flat screwdriver and levering it against the surroundings, or with some tiny tweezers, or you can put a conducting spacer (look for the madvapes circuitry spacers, again, some pages ago).

But the best strategy is not to tighten too much any atomizer. As the iStick measures their resistance in real time, as long as the screen is up (it uses a pulsating 100 mV feed to do that), you can screw in your atomizer slowly and avoidind a tight screw just looking at the screen. As soon as the resistance measured is the expected one...stop it!

Finally, some people have got good results with the insertion of an 510 to eGo or 510 to 510 AFC conector. Again, you have four hundred pages to look for them (this is becoming the bible for the iStick, a.k.a. the best and longest user manual ever devised....).

Just a tip: as the searching tool on vbulletin or whatever engine this forum uses sometimes can be trickier than desired, just use Google. After the keywords, put an space and the word chain 'site:', and aftr that, 'www.e-cigarette-forum.com'.


It works nicely, i. e. 'madvapes circuitry spacer iStick site:www.e-cigarette-forum.com' renders the messages (and not just the threads) with those appearances of the keywords. Same for 'AFC adaptor iStick site:www.e-cigarette-forum.com'....;)

 

[clnire]

I use "plastic" tanks with no problems. I do not do "tank cracker" flavors because I just feel (personally only!) That if a juice is going to eat plastic what will it do to my poor already damaged lungs? If I use a strong flavor I find an overnight soak in vodka or baking soda/water and a good morning rinse with warm water gets it nice and clean.

 

[froginblender]

Appreciate that emmsma.
Me2...lol.

Hoping you can get it replaced soon, with a good working stick that will not give you any more trouble.

Sent from my SCH-S968C

 

[froginblender]

Your're welcome! I like smaller also so I can just throw it in my pocket while at work. Try and keep the wattage down low though, because it heats up pretty fast,

I got the beyond vape silo tank lite Fits perfectly on the istick. 3.5 ml tank, and has metal encasing around the pyrex tank. !

 

[scaredmice]

I was under the impression that the slower the better for recharging batteries.

That's true for common chemistries before Li-ion. Lead acid, nickel-cadmium, nickel-metal hydride..... All get benefits of slow charging currents, or they are susceptible to wear or get easier overheating if you put too much charging current. They all are usually rated at 0,1 C - 0,25 C, that means that the charging current has to be less than the 'C-factor' stated, being C the number of actual capacity of the battery (but in current unit, i.e., amperes or miliamperes instead of capacity, mAh or Ah).

So a typical lead acid battery for cars here in Europe, rated at 70 Ah, has to be charged at less than 7 A (for lead acid it is 0,1 C). If you charge it with more current, it overheats, gets less capacity, wears over time and starts to emit hydrogen....

But that's for lead acid. For Li-ion, not only the limiting current factor is higher (typically, 0,5 C for ICR and 1C for IMR and polymer Li-ion), charging them under the limit does not render any benefit, and usually it just takes more time to fully recharge.

For the 2200 mAh polymer Li-ion of the iStick, the maximum would be 2,2 A (1C). Or 1,1 A (if it's a lithium-cobalt chemistry, like ICR, and it's not prepared for high current charging, so it's 0,5C). Anyway, 1A is safe and yields better time to recharge.

Most Lithium-ion chargers have limitations forced by the nature of their clients. You cannot charge a ICR 18350 at 1A, it's 0,5c limit is about 450 mA..... but the charger has to accomodate both 18350 and 18650 (and 26650 and...). so lithium devoted chargers has 0,5 - 1 A switches, and some are prepared even for the biggest ones (LUC Efest has a '2 amp' switch for 26650, I think).

Nitecore's, as they can charge from the tiny AAA Ni-MH (less than 700 mAh and 0,25 C max) to the biggest IMR 26650 (3500 mAh and 1C, hence almost 2A limit), they compromise between all their range of clients. Four slotted Nitecore's charge at 750 mA using just two consecutive slots, and 375 in alternate slots (1+3 or 2+4) or the four slots occupied. Two slotted Nitecore's have 500 mA fixed charging current (they are not suitable for AAA Ni-MH, but can handle AA).

All of this can be found at our (as vapers) must-read bible for batteries : www.battery-university.com, and in the user's manual of Nitecore products..... Hope it will be found useful....

 

[V_lestat]

dang it this thing won't thread my beloved Aspire Vivi Nova Tank.. grrr haven't tried with the adapter yet but i hate using a 510-510 adapter just ruins the look of the device.
looks great with the Aspire ET-S tanks and included ego adapter.

the Aspire Vivi Nova tank just hits a thread wall and i don't want to turn it any harder and mess up the threads on the tank or the threads on the device.
i have multiple devices and none of them have any issues with threading this tank..

but so far, fully charged at about 6pm friday evening (CST) and its now 8:18pm CST and its still got about 1/3 battery left. - sitting at 3.5v since this thing over volts, so i have no idea what the real voltage is, but tastes like about 3.7-3.8v does on all my other devices.
wish they included a battery voltage meter in the display as the stupid battery icon is silly. we need numbers for a device like this, not icons.

 

[MikeE3]

dang it this thing won't thread my beloved Aspire Vivi Nova Tank.. grrr haven't tried with the adapter yet but i hate using a 510-510 adapter just ruins the look of the device.
looks great with the Aspire ET-S tanks and included ego adapter.

the Aspire Vivi Nova tank just hits a thread wall and i don't want to turn it any harder and mess up the threads on the tank or the threads on the device.
i have multiple devices and none of them have any issues with threading this tank..

but so far, fully charged at about 6pm friday evening (CST) and its now 8:18pm CST and its still got about 1/3 battery left. - sitting at 3.5v since this thing over volts, so i have no idea what the real voltage is, but tastes like about 3.7-3.8v does on all my other devices.
wish they included a battery voltage meter in the display as the stupid battery icon is silly. we need numbers for a device like this, not icons.

Hmmm ... FWIW ..... my wife has no problem w/ her Aspire Vivi Nova's on her iStick.

 

[amoret]

Use a topper that is spring loaded instead, like the Silo, or Silo lite, or the nautilus, etc

Just a heads up on that -- on my Innokins, MVP and VV v3s, the spring loaded Nautilus is much worse for pushing the 510 pin in than any non spring loaded toppers I have used. I am having to keep the beauty rings threaded way out to not have to keep lifting the 510 on the battery back up. If the Istickis having the same pushed in pin problem that the Innokins have I would avoid spring loaded toppers.

 

[redrose]

Curious to see what you Find? And at what Ohms / Wattages you see the Biggest Difference?

That sound to me a lot as 'once it gets used for awhile, it settles down the power', which you can read a (zillion) posts above..... something that left me really intrigued, when not truly mesmerized....

No-one has said that anymore, and now, if I understood you well, you've found two iSticks which hit different at the same atty and wattage (I presume).

And regarding the battery status, everybody has reported a steady power output regardless the battery state (if it is up to the task, of course....), so those differences cannot be linked to it.....

Come on! Could it be just a minor difference by subjective appreciation? Just thinking out loud.....

With a 2.0 bdc on an aerotank mini, the readings I get are completely different on a red and blue
On red, it reads 2,7 ohms and lowest possible setting is 3.3 watts
Same tank on blue reads 2.3 ohms and lowest possible setting is 3.9 watts

 

[scaredmice]

With a 2.0 bdc on an aerotank mini, the readings I get are completely different on a red and blue
On red, it reads 2,7 ohms and lowest possible setting is 3.3 watts
Same tank on blue reads 2.3 ohms and lowest possible setting is 3.9 watts

It could be a lemon, a minor faulty 510 or electronic internals.....

My iStick is one of the most accurate resistance meter I have, which coupled with the measuremente in real-time (as long as the screen is up) makes it a precise ohm-meter for atomizers..... but someone else's one might be drifting away of this behaviour.... you know, lemons and apples (or it was lemons and oranges....?).

Same atty with the same set-up must have same ohm reading, unless there is a faulty 510 connection because of some faulty soldering, some e-liquid spilled over it which might be partially burnt and it's partially insulating things each other, even on the head threads or its internals, remember that the tightness of your atomizer could affect how the head behaves (at least on Kanger heads ans specially on eGo conectors like mini Protanks and mini Aerotanks).... if you tighten it till it rests flush, but the 510 wells are not identical, one of the iStick might be forcing your Kanger BDC head, if its grommet is forced, some strange ohm measurements may occur (ever shorcircuits).

Even if you're using an eGo to 510 adaptor, its core pole may be floating against the insulator, so it's handing over the tightening status of both head and conector over the iStick 510's ... it may be a tricky business!

 

[redrose]

With a 2.0 bdc on an aerotank mini, the readings I get are completely different on a red and blue
On red, it reads 2,7 ohms and lowest possible setting is 3.3 watts
Same tank on blue reads 2.3 ohms and lowest possible setting is 3.9 watts

It could be a lemon, a minor faulty 510 or electronic internals.....

Which one would be the lemon?