Eleaf Istick

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scaredmice

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Both genuine miniprotanks 3 and aerotanks V1, and of course their clones, have their bases in nickel chromed brass and some slight parts (base threads) actually are in touch with the e-liquid.... despite their intentions covering them with silicon or PTFE washers or o-rings. Not a big problem though, as long as you check them periodically....

If concerned about brass leeching lead, there is a way to pickle the brass to take care of that. I remember seeing this a while back, but couldn't remember where, so some kind folks on the Reos forum came to the rescue. Here is my thread, Might be helpful to you. :): http://www.e-cigarette-forum.com/forum/reos-mods/620404-looking-particular-thread.html

Well, that 'new' info is much appreciated, but I was talking about a simple safety: just a quick inspection of the wet threads made in nickel plated brass to discover the yellow-orangish tell-tale color of naked brass.... and then discard or substitute the now faulty base.

I do not have any intention of using naked brass, even if it is so naked that even surface pollutants have been removed, to get wet my e-liquids and then inhale their vapours.... So once the nickel plated got worn, a new one would be required... Metallic or oxidized copper, and zinc to a less extent, are out of my diet....:)

Of course, as stainless steel is becoming a de facto standard to make vaping hardware, this will become obsolete sooner or later. Maybe they will manufacture SS bases for their initially brass-machined bases... I think that Aerotanks V2 and beyond (and all its family exceptuating Genitanks) actually are fully SS.

And here in Spain we catalogue those pieces of hardware as "consumibles", i. e. consumables, so they are not intended to endure much. Perhaps it is a blot from the truly disposables CE4, anyway the best Nautilus or Aerotank cannot win in an longevity run against a true rebuildable like a Kayfun, Taifun, Fogger, Squape, et al. They also cost much less (mega-turbo-experiments aside....).
 

scaredmice

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Scaredmice...Would also like to add that the istick is somewhat mod-able. For one....Replacement of the battery should be a fairly easy task. The 510 connector also seems doable as seen here in this thread. As far as converting to a DNA circuit, well, not so easy, but i am very content with the original electronics and like how powerful it is . And, it is very easy to put a wrap on it if your not concerned about covering the LED area. (85mm x 70.7mm works for me). Plus the fact that it has made my life a bit simpler due to the ease of the USB charging opposed the PITA ego and battery chargers.

Well, its moddability (is that a new word....?) depends both in skills and tastes... but it is undoubtely near my choice about that, which would be the Hana mod and all its clones. I've got a clone and it is really accesible and fairly easy, if you have the much needed background in machining, soldering, and basic electronics, to mod it to 'another thing', or just repair it if it fails.

But it is bigger, awfully bigger! and that's the key clue.... The iStick is tinier, marvellouslly tinier, so much tiny that any intervention in it (inside, but even outside) poses a serious risk to its physical integrity.....

I'm skilled, even skilled enough, but I fear the day (which will come) in which I will have to crack it open to repair or improve something too good to be true... Let's not burn those bridges just yet....
 

scaredmice

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Darnit, my iStick is starting to have center pin issues :(

I switched out the 510/ego ego adapter on it, and it worked pretty well for a few days, but after a while, it gets pushed down too far and has to be adjusted with a screwdriver again.

Luckily, my trusty old ego twist has an adjustible 510, and will fire everrrything, so it doesn't leave me in a bind. That's why I carry both on me at all times.

It hasn't gotten terrible yet, but has anyone actually tried the Danco O-ring fix on the iStick yet? I hate to do it, but it may come to that point in the future.

I've tried that solution with a silicon rubber o-ring about 3 mm internal diameter (white opalescent, from the replacement spares of one of my rebuildables). It didn't work, because the silicon rubber is too soft and is opened wide enough with pressure as to go up over the central pin, and in that precise moment it does nothing.

But a more rigid, neoprene or SBS or PTFE o-ring could work...
 

Katya

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Katya, use the bvc coils (non-nautilus) ones.
And like i said in earlier post, i enlarge the airholes with sharp knife...lol...don't have a small enough drill bit, and it only took like 5 to 10 minutes for both hole enlargement.
you can view my crafty knife work here:
lol - https://www.flickr.com/photos/127571667@N07/15425579365/in/photostream/lightbox/

Yeah, I know that people use small drill bits (1/16") to enlarge the holes, but it sounds a bit intimidating to me...

I used a pin vise to hold the "plug" and another to hold the drill bit and bored it out by hand in a few minutes.
:facepalm:

http://www.e-cigarette-forum.com/fo...ts-very-tight-pull-what-now.html#post13495145

I also have an issue (a minor one, mind you) with this fiberglass filler. I don't know why, I just do. Besides, I don't want to go back to cartomizers--been that done that. :D I still use my carto tank once in a while and I like it. What I love about Kanger coils is that they can be taken apart, cleaned and dry burned in less than two minutes--I love clean coils. Again, it's just me. YMMV
 

aznnp77

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I've tried that solution with a silicon rubber o-ring about 3 mm internal diameter (white opalescent, from the replacement spares of one of my rebuildables). It didn't work, because the silicon rubber is too soft and is opened wide enough with pressure as to go up over the central pin, and in that precise moment it does nothing.

But a more rigid, neoprene or SBS or PTFE o-ring could work...

I'm talking about the Danco O-Ring that people (including myself) used to fix their Innokin MVPs. It's a bit thick, which is why I don't really like it. It prevents you from screwing down the tank all the way and makes you find a sweet spot for it to fire perfectly.

I actually tried to cut it with an Xacto knife, but it wasn't happening. the O-Ring is pretty tough. I only want to do it as a last resort though. My Istick is barely a month old.
 

spartanstew

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I'm real curious to see this in action. Using a mini nautilus, it just barely touches the firing button at 180 degrees. It appears it would rub the black strip. It also appears that a full size nauti wouldn't even open the full 180 degrees. This is just me laying my iStick flat and trying to see where it would open up at with these two tanks.

Because the hinge overhangs the side a bit, I don't think a mini nautilus (or similar sized tank) would hit the black strip, there'd be a little gap. Not sure the hinge is big enough to allow for full sized Nautilus (or other similar sized tanks) to go the full 180 degrees, and if it does, you're correct it might rub against the black strip.
 

Katya

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Remember when vaping was simply "go to Cignot get a 510 and a drip tip unless you want to blue foam and tea bag it"...done! I don't know how new comers do it. I go to the new members section and realize they are years ahead of me.

I do, but there was nothing simple about that Lipton tea bag mod. :facepalm: Blue foam? I remember stealing thin stirring straws from Starbucks for High Ping mods... :lol:

Cartomizers were easy--but they burned... :evil:

I don't know how new vapers do it. It must be overwhelming.
 

Katya

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I don't trust myself, I don't trust myself. * runs and hides*

It was a test--just to make sure you're paying attention. :D

Uh, umm, I dunno, Im confused. Let me think of a good reason......
Those are a lot shorter, and look great. And she starts from scratch.

Good girl. You ARE paying attention. :)
 

op22222

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Well, its moddability (is that a new word....?) depends both in skills and tastes... but it is undoubtely near my choice about that, which would be the Hana mod and all its clones. I've got a clone and it is really accesible and fairly easy, if you have the much needed background in machining, soldering, and basic electronics, to mod it to 'another thing', or just repair it if it fails.

But it is bigger, awfully bigger! and that's the key clue.... The iStick is tinier, marvellouslly tinier, so much tiny that any intervention in it (inside, but even outside) poses a serious risk to its physical integrity.....

I'm skilled, even skilled enough, but I fear the day (which will come) in which I will have to crack it open to repair or improve something too good to be true... Let's not burn those bridges just yet....

Even with being a watch repairman with a background in electronics, I too do not entertain the thought of cracking it open to repair or improve something. Hopefully, as time goes by, and revisions to the istick come out on the market, the price of these original versions will be cheap enough for me to consider these disposable and just replace it.
By the way, I don't believe mod-able is a proper English word LOL !
 
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