Eleaf Istick

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aldenf

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When cleaning, I made sure to tighten the coils and bottom to the tank.. I'm not sure what u mean by 'base'. The bottom housing I have does not have any threading. It seals itself to the tank via a clear rubber ring.

-Rachel

The threading where the coil/head assembly screws into the base.
 

ThunderDan

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TD, I haven't gotten near my workbench yet with the 30W iStick. But, anecdotally, yes it appears to fire to spec.

Cool, cool. I may have to order one, I'll wait for some numbers to come out. For the price honesty I don't even care if it does, its just they advertise it does on the specs. I'm growing tired of supporting companies that continually lie about their specs.

Sent from my Nexus 6 using Tapatalk
 

aznnp77

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See, it's funny. People were talking about the iStick voltages for the past 10 pages but people are still asking because it was such a big deal for the original.

I've been getting conflicting info for both sides on the new one, but I went ahead and ordered one for myself. I can tell you without a doubt if it fires hot or not.

First thing I will do is set it to 3.0 volts on my protank. If it barely fires, they fixed it. If it feels like my regular vape, then it's the same as the original (I fire my protanks at ~4 volts to 2.2ohms).
 

aldenf

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Is it me or are the buttons and plate really loose and rattle worse than the original

My 30W iStick doesn't rattle any worse than my last original, received last month. Both rattle about the same, which is worse than my original iStick received in Oct. Not sure what "plate" you're speaking of.
 

Bikenstein

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See, it's funny. People were talking about the iStick voltages for the past 10 pages but people are still asking because it was such a big deal for the original.

I've been getting conflicting info for both sides on the new one, but I went ahead and ordered one for myself. I can tell you without a doubt if it fires hot or not.

First thing I will do is set it to 3.0 volts on my protank. If it barely fires, they fixed it. If it feels like my regular vape, then it's the same as the original (I fire my protanks at ~4 volts to 2.2ohms).

I put a protank 3 on mine and set at 3v it barely fires. But it vapes warm wet clouds at 5.2 :)

Edit: Tried it at 4 but like it better with the PT3 at 5.2. Tried to upload a pic but no
 
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rhammer186

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The threading where the coil/head assembly screws into the base.
When I took the coil off the base I saw a lot of liquid inside the base. It seems that the seal/washer of the coil isn't sufficient and the liquid is leaking down towards the air holes. I made sure to tighten it as best I could but it didn't make any difference.

-Rachel
 

Bikenstein

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Someone tell me if theres was rattling right out of the box and the loose buttons.. Need to know if mine needs to go back or they sll are like that
Mine rattles pretty good right out of the box. My wife's 20 doesn't. It's a little better after about 7 hours of vapin. I guess it's getting hot and swellin up:)
 

Ricky Spanish

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The plastic covering the display and the buttons, seems to make more noise than my original unless my original was not as loud as most. Soon as i picked up the box i could hear it making noise. If its normal thats fine just wanted to make sure its not busted

Mine is like that too, I don't think it's the plastic, it's just the fire button cover and the two adjuster button covers. I've never taken one apart but I assume they are all separate.
 

drysprocket

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On the rattle issue- just remember to get some sort of wrap. It acts like a bra that will hold that button a bit, and keep it from rattling.

And I just setup my istick30 with the atlantis, using my favorite juice, which I bought in 3 and 6 nic, going down from 12. And I hate it! hah. This is blowing my mind. In fact, I'm starting a thread about this: sub ohming sucks so far. My flavor is all wrong. Ugh, why did I think I was capable of change....
 
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