Eleaf Istick

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Kent C

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Good voices of experience...

I was going to preface my remarks with 'Normally, this wouldn't be the brightest move... but I'm going to disagree with aldenf.." :) Because, your solid information on the new box mods and the toppers that go with them, have been invaluable to me (and others) for moving me from basically a eGo/T3/T3S phase that had lasted 4 years where I was perfectly satisfied with the results from that hardware for the flavors I've been vaping again, for years. I had some mods early on - before eGos and a reo-mini since and I liked the earlier 'Bartleby' (510/14500 based) and the form of the Janty/Joye stick (side by side - 801/10440 based) but the performance of the last just didn't get it when the eGo came on the scene. So when the istick came along, I got re-interested in that form. Again, you and others here and elsewhere - KTMRider, billh, Katya, tib, Kat, inspects, Bikenstein, Stosh, peraspera, qorax, and many other regulars in the VS, istick and small box threads have been very helpful.

I got some of the first bridgeless attys way back when, from comments on the Dangerous Cartos thread - a thread that led to many of the innovations we are still seeing today - the timeline is fascinating lol... My 'luck' with them was about 50/50 but they became very popular and guys like cisco improved on the idea and took it as far as it could go, imo. Where flavor was top priority, dripping was the best answer at that time. When clearos got to the point where flavor was just as good or near just as good as dripping, then the clearo market took over.

With sampling flavors, bridged attys are just cheaper and easier to manage than the .357 (which has a learning curve) or Vapage's Hybrid Universal gold base (no learning curve necessary :). As pointed out, with Joye attys and a few others (but not all) the bridge with it's arch of mesh and more importantly - the mesh base - holds enough eliquid near the coil to wick into the coil. I use a less expensive eGo-c upgrade batt that has two modes - 3.4v and 3.7v - for sampling light (3.4) and stronger (3.7) flavors without going to a Twist, Spinner, Vision variable type. It's small and sits along with my new box mods and other eGos which I still use. Perfect for sampling...

Back on topic :) I have an istick 50, another Defender, GS Air and a Sub on their way....lol (also already have the VS rDNA-40, defender and earlier isticks..... )
 
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inspects

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Inspects,

What you bought---a ten-pack of Joyetech SR510 2.2-ohm atties with a VaporKings logo---is fine. They'll work with any PV that provides power in the "standard" voltage range (3.3-4.8 volts)---mechanicals, eGos, Twists/Spinners, ZMaxes/VAMOs, regulated boxes, whatever. They're atomizers, not cartomizers, with horizontal coils in ceramic cups over which are inverted-V-shaped strip metal bridges wrapped in fine wire mesh that provide the wicking. You can even convert them into "bridgeless" atties (where you drip eliquid directly onto the coils) by pulling out the bridges with a pair of needlenose pliers. Some 510 atties are produced and sold as bridgeless---the "bridged-versus-bridgeless" debate was a hot topic on ECF way back when. All those threads are buried in the archives.

Your new "disposable" atties work just like RDAs---you drip eliquid by drops into the open end of the barrel or through whatever drip tip you use on them. [By the way, that's why drip tips are called "drip" tips. They were first marketed back in 2010-2011 for use with those very atomizers you just bought, as well as for cartomizers, which were gaining favor at that time---various kinds of tanks came soon after that (veterans will remember syringe-mod carto tanks from 2011). Nhaler was the first vendor I remember to carry drip tips. They were plastic or delrin, and ridiculously expensive---about $7 each, plus shipping. We bought them anyway, because all vaping hardware was more expensive back then. Aluminum, stainless steel, glass, and ceramic drip tips came later.]

I see some posters tonight belittling 510 atties in favor of rebuildable drippers. That is by no means a universally-held opinion. Many people love old-school Joyetech 510 atties. VaporKings sells 'em by the truckload. That's one of the great things about vaping---people can use whatever hardware pleases them.

Dripping as a vaping technique waxes and wanes in popularity. For awhile, cartos, clearos, and tanks made it seem that dripping was becoming passé. When rebuildable atties showed up in the marketplace (RBA/RDA/RTA), dripping seemingly roared back for RDAs, but the truth is that dripping never went away. While some hardware does vanish from the vaping scene (remember blue foam in cartridges?), much older hardware remains viable despite the latest-and-greatest new thing to hit the marketplace.

While refinements in hardware occur these days at breakneck speed as the vaping industry enters its aggressive, hyper-competitive adolescence, the basic technology of vaping remains the same as it's been since the very beginning a decade ago in 2005: metal coils that are heated by voltage from a battery to vaporize eliquid. Will vaping be based on that formula forever? I don't know, but so far there's no indication that it will change fundamentally any time soon. Even something like "temperature control" is essentially a refinement on the basic technology, rather than a revolutionary change. I mean, an RDA with sub-ohm twisted quad coils on a 26650 mechanical or a tank with sub-ohm OCC-wicked vertical coils on a 150-watt box mod are both finally just more powerful and sophisticated versions of a simple 510 atomizer atop an eGo battery (or an 808-d 220mAh cig-a-like, if we want to reach even further back).

billherbst....Thank you very much.....:toast:

You answered all my questions perfectly. I understand now.....:)
 

inspects

Squonkamaniac
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A Spinner battery is an eGo battery with a 510/eGo connection. Anything 510 or eGo threaded will work just fine.

And since we're taking a trip down memory lane, let me remind you that the "eGo threads" were not real threads to begin with--they had purely cosmetic function back then. We used to thread eGo cones onto those threads for a seamless look. :p

ego-510-thread.jpg


In the old days we did this:

1. We had to screw the skinny 510 atomizer (or cartomizer) into the battery 510 connection.

2. Screw the cone cover onto the outer (eGo) threads to achieve a seamless look. [The new, higher capacity eGos were fatter than the cigalikes and all the atties and cartos were still skinny (9mm diameter) and they looked funny on fat batteries--hence the cone.]

1288736037681568178718.jpeg


As you can see, we used to be totally color coordinated in those days.

And then came clearomizers--all designed at first to work with the good old eGo batteries:

original_EGO_Variable_voltage.jpg


So yeah--almost anything will work on your Spinner. :D

Thanks Kayta...I just wanted a device to test juice flavor before ruining a coil or wick if I don't care for the juice.

Problem now solved.
 

gerrymi

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Well, I may have to pick up a Cero tank to try those new, all cotton Nautilus coils...................... :lol:

Well...as listed on the "wholesaler's" site...the "Anyvape CeroTank" accepts Aspire BDC/BVC and Kanger BDC coils (but not Aspire Nautilus BDC/BVC).

Anyvape CeroTank AirFlow Glassomizer | Shenzhen Anyvape Technology Limited

(The ANYVAPE PEAKOMIZER 2.0 will take the Nautilus coils )

http://kanvape.com/collections/atom...spire-nautilus-coil-compatibility-clearomizer

IMHO - better flavor than my kanger tanks (evod, t3s, aero v1, pt 3, geni mega - not the sub family), better flavor than my bvc tanks (anyvape davide mini & regular w/AFC) not as good flavor as nauty mini. Better vapor production than all of them.

Just to clarify (since the Nauty BVC's give me more vapor then any of the many clearomizers and cartotanks I had tried previously)...you're saying the GS Air gives you "better vapor production" than the Nauty Mini (I'm assuming with BVC's)???
 
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pokemom

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Just to clarify (since the Nauty BVC's give me more vapor then any of the many clearomizers and cartotanks I had tried previously)...you're saying the GS Air gives you "better vapor production" than the Nauty Mini (I'm assuming with BVC's)???

Yup, for me this has held true. The vapor on the gs air is thicker (fuller) and smoother than the vapor on my 2 nauty minis (with bvc 1.8 ohm coils)


Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk
 

inspects

Squonkamaniac
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Yup, for me this has held true. The vapor on the gs air is thicker (fuller) and smoother than the vapor on my 2 nauty minis (with bvc 1.8 ohm coils)


Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk

I agree wholeheartedly....the Eleaf Air GS had much better vapor production and flavor than the nautilus mini, and costs considerably less for tanks and coils.
 

Bikenstein

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Testing my second stick 50. It too has swapped VW to VV once and cut off once. Otherwise performing great I'm 2 bars down after 11 hrs vaping at 15w. The black one went 22 hrs on the first charge and 19 on the second @ 18w. That's from almost totally what I call chain vaping hours so I'm impressed. :)

!8 hrs vapin the Silver and it's dropped to half charge a while ago. Swapped from VW to VV again while locked today. I don't know if I'm doin it or what. no big deal so far.
 

inspects

Squonkamaniac
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!8 hrs vapin the Silver and it's dropped to half charge a while ago. Swapped from VW to VV again while locked today. I don't know if I'm doin it or what. no big deal so far.

They're prolly just recovering from the long journey from Asia to your doorsteps----:)

Kidding naturally.......but I haven't had any problems with the four I have.
 

Bikenstein

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They're prolly just recovering from the long journey from Asia to your doorsteps----:)

Kidding naturally.......but I haven't had any problems with the four I have.

LOL. I keep thinkin it's probly me, but I do know the Black one locked on low charge shortly after it went to half charge on the battery indicator. On the second charge it went all the way down and even started flashing, so I think it's ok now.
 

Stosh

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I have a Subtank in transit, due in Monday....depending on where and when it snows again...:facepalm:

I am mostly a MTL tootle puffer, and am generally around 10 watts average. I'm figuring different ways to modify the Subtank to tame it, make it do what I want from it, and if it's possible, I'll figure a way. May even have to resort to using duct tape.....:2cool:

Keep us posted, Stosh, will ya?

I'm very close to getting one. I'm so curious--and I really like Kanger.

My Subtank arrived early, yesterday. Tried it out with the RBA head and the ciol it came with, 0.6Ω, wicked with cotton, very nice vape. Re-coiled it this morning with some twisted kanthral 1.2Ω with more cotton, working perfectly at 10-12 watts with the air control nearly fully closed, just part of one hole showing. I even tried it with the air control fully shut, it had a draw kinda like an iClear 16 with a dirty head, tight as anyone could ever want.

Haven't tried the pre-built coils yet, the RBA is easy enough to coil and wick, haven't needed them. Maybe when I'm too lazy to build my own, but it's only a 5 minute process. Way easier than re-coiling an Evod or Vivi-Nova, and you can check the resistance easily before wicking, pre-fire it and make sure the coil is even.

p.s First thing I did was replace the O-rings with the black ones that came with it, now it matches all my mods.
 

Katya

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Katya

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Yup, for me this has held true. The vapor on the gs air is thicker (fuller) and smoother than the vapor on my 2 nauty minis (with bvc 1.8 ohm coils)


Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk

I agree wholeheartedly....the Eleaf Air GS had much better vapor production and flavor than the nautilus mini, and costs considerably less for tanks and coils.

Looks like I won't have to try the Nautilus, after all... ;) :lol:
 

Katya

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My Subtank arrived early, yesterday. Tried it out with the RBA head and the ciol it came with, 0.6Ω, wicked with cotton, very nice vape. Re-coiled it this morning with some twisted kanthral 1.2Ω with more cotton, working perfectly at 10-12 watts with the air control nearly fully closed, just part of one hole showing. I even tried it with the air control fully shut, it had a draw kinda like an iClear 16 with a dirty head, tight as anyone could ever want.

Haven't tried the pre-built coils yet, the RBA is easy enough to coil and wick, haven't needed them. Maybe when I'm too lazy to build my own, but it's only a 5 minute process. Way easier than re-coiling an Evod or Vivi-Nova, and you can check the resistance easily before wicking, pre-fire it and make sure the coil is even.

p.s First thing I did was replace the O-rings with the black ones that came with it, now it matches all my mods.

Thanks, Wabbit!

So--forget the Nautilus, get the Subtank? :lol:

Hey, I love the red rings. :facepalm:

Why can't vaping be easy?
 

Stosh

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Thanks, Wabbit!

So--forget the Nautilus, get the Subtank? :lol:

Hey, I love the red rings. :facepalm:

Why can't vaping be easy?

I've bypassed the Nautilus and the Aspire with their crazy assortment of heads...who wants to vape BVDs or even tidy whiteys...:facepalm:

I went with the black rings for color coordination....studying Bling 101....:laugh:
 

Katya

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I've bypassed the Nautilus and the Aspire with their crazy assortment of heads...who wants to vape BVDs or even tidy whiteys...:facepalm:

I tried BDCs--no love, not enough airflow. Never tried BVCs... I guess I never will. :p

I went with the black rings for color coordination....studying Bling 101....:laugh:

I see.

Hmmm.... I have this cute red drip tip. :D
 
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