Eleaf Istick

[spartanstew]

Love when you try to help, and always someone there to knock u for it.

Not necessarily a knock, but lets review:

You joined this thread about 6 hours ago, so I'm assuming you haven't read it all. If you had, you'd realize that what you said has already been said by others (several times), but without real facts. If, by "the chart" you're referring to a chart that was posted earlier in the thread, then yes, it's supposition. That information has not been verified, it was just calculated.

I'll also point out that you identified Aspire coils as Nautlus coils, incorrectly just a few posts ago, and you've also mentioned you don't have one of these yet.

Could the information you've stated be true? Certainly, but it's yet to be measured accurately by someone with the unit (AFAIK), so continuing to talk about its limitations is premature.

 

[spartanstew]

Go to ebay for BVC heads....got my K1 glassomizer in 3 days shipping, and just ordered 1.8 ohm BVC coils for that tank from Ebay too.!
Just type aspire nautilus bvc coils.
oh hell, here's a link: 1.8 ohm coils.
Enjoy

And not to pick you you, but you also told people (above) to purchase Nautilus BVC heads for their K1 Tank. The K1 tank does not take Nautilus BVC heads, it takes Aspire BVC heads - two different things (as has also already been mentioned).

 

[Buster282]

yep, i saw that guys chart also. just can't remember where at the moment. thought he said like 1.5 to 1.7 ohm for 10 to 20 watts - sweet spot for me. but yea, the power output on this is dependent on the resistance of the atty. my favorite Kayfun clone has a longer 510 so i've already had to pry up the pin to get contact with a diff atty. just gonna keep my fav on there for now. it would be better to have a spring loaded 510 pin, IMO. just sent Eleaf a msg.

oh yea, was in this thread

 

[dwg64]

They refer to those BVC "non-nautilus" coils as a "fitment" for Aspire tanks like the vivi's. Just my 2¢

Fyi: I'm using a nauty mini with 1.8 ohm coils and my iStick will only allow me to crank it up to 15.9 watts. I'm ok with that since I'm sweet at 11.5. Nice little mod. Can't put it down. Oh and I've been chain vaping it since in arrived fully charged at 10am and it's showing half full battery. It's now 9:54pm!!


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[Kyi]

And not to pick you you, but you also told people (above) to purchase Nautilus BVC heads for their K1 Tank. The K1 tank does not take Nautilus BVC heads, it takes Aspire BVC heads - two different things (as has also already been mentioned).

Oo good to know.. I almost bought the wrong heads. But this annoys me a bit.. was hoping I could just buy coils that would work with both of the tanks. I guess the Nautilus heads are larger?

 

[jabber13]

Jabber13 with another question!!! Well now should I wait on the Eleaf Istick or a ProVari™ Variable Voltage V2.5 with Digital Display. last but not least a Reos mod ($$$$)
What I'm looking for is a strong lasting battery. Avoid wick and coil burns. Strong taste and vapor. (I have the Halo Triton, low battery live, building coils and wicks for it when burnt. ( Fun doing it thou) ...... I know this is alot of stuff, but give me the best ideals (past or future) Satisfaction is the word here. Thank you too all the Gurus out there in vaper land

Or go for the onsider the MVP v2.
1. Huge (2600 mah) battery
2. Variable Voltage - Voltage can be adjusted from 3.3 ~ 5.0 in 0.1 volt increments
3. Variable Wattage - Wattage can be adjusted from 6.0 ~ 11.0 in 0.5 watt increments
4. Ohms Meter - Reads the resistance of your atomizer
5. Pass through ability
6. $40 shipped at many online stores
Pair it with a mini Naulitus with the new BVC's (bottom vertical coils) an you will have a great vape.

 

[classwife]

Ah, I was just throwing a number out there to keep Classy happy.

I'll remember this

 

[Poeia]

Maybe down the Road the 1W ~ 100W Boards will become affordable to the Average Vaper? And someone will jam one Into an iStick Shell?

Because a True 1W ~ 100W 18650 Mod the Size of the iStick for 40 Bucks would kinda be the Holy Grail of ALL APV's.

Until then, I guess we will have to work with Varients of something like this...

$124.43 Gi 2 Style 100W Variable Voltage/Wattage Mod - 2*18650 / 1-100W / 1.0-5.5V at FastTech - Worldwide Free Shipping

What did they use for the case? It looks like a CPU case, emptied, with a 510 connector added. Each unit comes with a wheeled cart so you can use it on the go (although it is better to avoid taking it on stairs, if possible, as it may slip and crush you under it.)

 

[salemgold]

Oo good to know.. I almost bought the wrong heads. But this annoys me a bit.. was hoping I could just buy coils that would work with both of the tanks. I guess the Nautilus heads are larger?

Yes. they are larger. It is annoying that they are different though. Agree with you there.

 

[salemgold]

Jabber13 with another question!!! Well now should I wait on the Eleaf Istick or a ProVari™ Variable Voltage V2.5 with Digital Display. last but not least a Reos mod ($$$$)
What I'm looking for is a strong lasting battery. Avoid wick and coil burns. Strong taste and vapor. (I have the Halo Triton, low battery live, building coils and wicks for it when burnt. ( Fun doing it thou) ...... I know this is alot of stuff, but give me the best ideals (past or future) Satisfaction is the word here. Thank you too all the Gurus out there in vaper land

Or go for the onsider the MVP v2.
1. Huge (2600 mah) battery
2. Variable Voltage - Voltage can be adjusted from 3.3 ~ 5.0 in 0.1 volt increments
3. Variable Wattage - Wattage can be adjusted from 6.0 ~ 11.0 in 0.5 watt increments
4. Ohms Meter - Reads the resistance of your atomizer
5. Pass through ability
6. $40 shipped at many online stores
Pair it with a mini Naulitus with the new BVC's (bottom vertical coils) an you will have a great vape.

Wow, those are all so different that you are just going to have to narrow down which would better suit you. I like the iStick much better than my MVP2 but, that may not be the same for you.

The Provari is just too rich for my blood so can't help you there. Good luck to you though.

 

[dwg64]

Jabber13 with another question!!! Well now should I wait on the Eleaf Istick or a ProVari[emoji769] Variable Voltage V2.5 with Digital Display. last but not least a Reos mod ($$$$)
What I'm looking for is a strong lasting battery. Avoid wick and coil burns. Strong taste and vapor. (I have the Halo Triton, low battery live, building coils and wicks for it when burnt. ( Fun doing it thou) ...... I know this is alot of stuff, but give me the best ideals (past or future) Satisfaction is the word here. Thank you too all the Gurus out there in vaper land

Or go for the onsider the MVP v2.
1. Huge (2600 mah) battery
2. Variable Voltage - Voltage can be adjusted from 3.3 ~ 5.0 in 0.1 volt increments
3. Variable Wattage - Wattage can be adjusted from 6.0 ~ 11.0 in 0.5 watt increments
4. Ohms Meter - Reads the resistance of your atomizer
5. Pass through ability
6. $40 shipped at many online stores
Pair it with a mini Naulitus with the new BVC's (bottom vertical coils) an you will have a great vape.

I'm fairly new to all of this myself but here's my take on it all. In the last month and a half I've spent over $350 on new vape gear. Vamo, Vv3, Hana clone, juices, tanks, blah blah blah. If I could go back, knowing what I know now, and having had this forum in my pocket in the beginning, I'd have only done one thing different. I would have just bought the nautilus mini, BVC coils, several juices, and if at the time it was available, the iStick.

The 3 weeks I've owned the Hana clone have been great, don't get me wrong. But I'm perfectly content with my current setup and most likely never build coils. I will never vape past 20 watts and the Hana does 30.

The most important thing to remember here is to find a satisfying vape setup and to QUIT SMOKING!!!


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[Poeia]

Burt Taste Isn't a Product of Too Many Watts. It's a Product of Not Enough Wicking/Air Flow.

Good ole "Burt Taste." I wonder what he's been up to recently.

It sounds like the name someone made up for posting video reviews. Not one of the good reviewers who actually look at the product and discuss its strengths and weaknesses. More like those reviewers that go:

"Hey. What's up, dudes? I'm gonna review this new iStick I just got. 20 watts, 5.5 volts, 2200mAh and you can hide it anywhere. I've been vaping a lot with this new [insert name of newest "hot" RBA here] so let me just put it on here..."

Pause while he/she (usually he) shoves his hands so near the camera for an intense close-up that the camera gives up and shows his left shoulder, in focus, for the 47 seconds it takes for him to remove the atomizer from one device and put it on the iStick. He then pulls his hands back into focus, He vapes by taking 5 or 6 long inhales then exhales, filling the field of vision with vapor.

"Yeah. It's a great little device."

End video

 

[Zanzabar78]

Truer words were never spoken.



You are right about that. I think that many people do not understand the fact that LR was only created to give vapers a high voltage experience with a low voltage ecig. They were introduced so that folks could get a warmer vape on an Ego. People that have VV/VW mods really should not need LR.

A better solution is to introduce step down technology, bucking, to lower end Mods, it's been there for years in twists and vv and mvp etc

 

[billherbst]

My blue iStick arrived today from VapeNW. Given that my VAMO v3 gave up the ghost yesterday and no longer functions at all, the arrival of this little guy is timely. So far, I like it, especially the small size, build quality, good display, and pleasing ergonomics,

Some of my bottom-coil EVOD-style clearos with rebuilt low-resistance heads (1.2-1.4 ohm) taste burnt wherever the wattage is set, but I anticipated that they might, so I'm not disappointed. I'm guessing that the iStick will probably shine with the 1.8 ohm BVC-coiled Mini Nautilus---the full-size Nautilus works fine but is a bit out-of-scale on the tiny iStick---or with clearos and small-chamber RDAs/RBAs coiled with 28ga. Kanthal around 1.8-2.5 ohms and wicked with rayon or Kho Gen Do cotton. That's just supposition, of course, to be verified over the coming weeks.

 

[Katya]

Believe it or Not. You can use ANY Wattage you want and you will Never get a Burnt Taste if the Wick can Supply e-Liquid to the Coil Fast Enough.

I Can use the 220v Heating Element from an Electric Stove to Vape with. I would just need to have a Beach Towel sized Wick to do it.

Burt Taste Isn't a Product of Too Many Watts. It's a Product of Not Enough Wicking/Air Flow.

Amen!

As long as the coil is wet, all's well.

 

[Katya]

Strange that Aspire doesn't offer Anything Higher than 1.8Ohm.

Guess they are Caught Up in this "All Vapers want Mega Watts" Craze that seems to be Sweeping the Market Right Now.

Please keep in mind that all of the (older BDC) Aspire coils are dual coils--which means that a 1.8Ω coil head is made out of two 3.6Ω heads--that's not really low resistance. A 2.1Ω dual coil has two 4.2Ω coils.

A 1.8Ω single coil runs much hotter than a 1.8Ω dual coil.

EDIT: THE BVC coils are single, though! Thanks Bill. Sorry...

 

[billherbst]

Please keep in mind that all of the Aspire coils are dual coils--which means that a 1.8Ω coil head is made out of two 3.6Ω heads--that's not really low resistance. A 2.1Ω dual coil has two 4.2Ω coils.

A 1.8Ω single coil runs much hotter than a 1.8Ω dual coil.

Unless I'm mistaken, the newer Aspire BVC heads are single coil. The older BDC heads are duals.

 

[Katya]

That is where is mine came from was LF, I went the Riva route instead of the EGO route due to the 3.7 instead of 3.2. This forum was a lot different in those days

Hehehe... Me too.

My first eGo was a Riva from Liberty Flights.

 

[jafmf95]

Unless I'm mistaken, the newer Aspire BVC heads are single coil. The older BDC heads are duals.

You are not mistaken.

 

[Katya]

I made a new chart showing what combinations of oHms/watts the iStick is capable of regulating. eLeaf/Joye U.S. confirmed with the manufacturer that the iStick does not have the capability to down regulate power.

The blue bars show what is fully regulated. The purple shows oHms/watts combos that are only regulated when the power level you have selected falls below the volts the battery is actually outputting. If the settings you have chosen are too low to be regulated the iStick screen shows values calculated from oHms law based on your chosen settings rather than showing the actual power coming from the battery that is going to the coil.

For example, if you are using a 1.8 oHm coil the iStick will fully regulated your vape between 10 and 16 watts. However, if you want to vape your 1.8 oHm coil at 7 watts you can not do so until the battery output falls below 3.6 volts. In practice, this would mean you would start vaping at 10 watts with a freshly charged battery with the temperature of the vape going lower until the battery was actually outputting below 3.6 volts. The iStick would then regulate your vape at 7 watts until the battery needed to be recharged. The screen will reflect 7 watts/3.5 volts irrespective what volts are actually being output to the coil.

Using the iStick in voltage mode doesn't change the fact that the iStick is not capable of reducing the power coming from the battery. If the battery is freshly charged, producing around 4.2 volts, and you have set the voltage to 3.8 the iStick will be delivering 4.2 volts, not 3.8 volts, to your coil.

The iStick will not allow you to select a power setting that requires more volts than is allowed in its regulated range. It will stop at the highest setting that the chip can regulate.

You can download the spreadsheet I used for the underlying data if you wish to look at it or modify it for another device. Choose File > Download as from inside the Google spreadsheet itself rather than your browser's menu. The colors on the spreadsheet are done with conditional formatting that matches spec limitations.

The data I used is from doing oHms law calculations. The device may produce something a bit different in actual use. So far, I haven't seen any reviews for the iStick using reliable electronic testing equipment to check its accuracy.

I Can't Speak for what Anyone else's iStick is Doing. And I Can't Quantify the Numbers because a DMM Alone Won't Do it.

But the Hit I am Getting when I set My Freshly charged iStick at 3.0V is Much Weaker than what I get at 4.2V on either My Provari. Or My MVP. Or my iTaste VV. Or My Vamo. Or my Lavatube.

Those are All I can Compare it to. Because those are the Only PV's I have measured with a DMM and Know that they are Outputting 4.2V

I am sooooooooooooo confused... This makes no sense to me whatsoever.

Variable wattage and variable wattage should mean that you can adjust (vary) your voltage/wattage to your preference...

Features:
1. OLED screen: Its particularity lies in the incremental OLED screen displaying battery condition, resistance, wattage and voltage.
2. 2200mAh large capacity: Although it can fit in the palm of one hand, the capacity is huge. The 2200mAh capacity helps you enjoy the vapor all day long.
3. 20w strong output wattage: The output wattage can be up to 20w which caters your heavier vapor demand.
4. Adjustable voltage: The voltage is adjustable vary from 3.0V to 5.5V according to your vaping habit.