Eleaf Istick

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aznnp77

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The istick kind of bugs me that my KFL tank always gets loose when it's on there and has to get tightened down a lot.

Failure:
My iStick is also developing the center pin problem that plagued my MVP. Because of the non adjustible center pin, it started to not make contact with some of my tanks and started displaying "No Atomizer". I was able to adjust it up with a screwdriver like with the MVP to get it workig, but this is not an issue I care to deal with again. My ego twist has an adjustible pin, and will fire everything I throw at it every time.

Is there any cheap way to fix this? Worst case scenario, could I replace the O-ring like I did on my MVP? I think by messing with the center pin, I got it to work with all my protanks with aerotank bases, but my Davide tank is a no go because the coil is too far up.
 
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BNEAT

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While this is certainly the case with juice flavors like Pluid, any noticeable retention with your average flavors is extremely minimal, hell I can put Pluid in an all glass/stainless RBA and have a helluva time getting it completely out. I prefer Pyrex myself, but a GOOD wash will get rid of all evidence of your average juice, even in Plastic tanks. Now you may have a nose like my Avatar, or hyper sensitive taste buds, but your average person will not notice any remnants with proper maintenance even with PC/PMMA tanks.

I use "plastic" tanks with no problems. I do not do "tank cracker" flavors because I just feel (personally only!) That if a juice is going to eat plastic what will it do to my poor already damaged lungs? If I use a strong flavor I find an overnight soak in vodka or baking soda/water and a good morning rinse with warm water gets it nice and clean.

I have no way of knowing which flavors from which juice companies are going to effect the thousands of possible resin blends from which my plastic tanks COULD be produce. Vapers state matter-of-factly what the polymer in their Chinese $10 tank is made of, but in actuality, it could have anything thrown into the mix, which is absolutely the same situation with our juices! I've seen too many plastic tanks melt/fog/crack to trust inhaling the results of that chemical reaction, no matter how slight it is.

The irony here is that I make my living in the plastics industry
 

Ryan Lee

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With all of the people having issues with the center pin issue, I have an opinion and some advice.

Having owned an mvp, I had already gained experience with this issue. I never had problems with it, but as soon as I passed it on to my aunt, she quickly ran into the problem. I would just pry it up with a tiny flathead until it would make solid contact with her tank. But after about 6 months of her protank and evod leaking into the mvp, it finally decided to quit. I told her if she wants to use unsealed tanks, than she needs to be checking the contact on the battery every time she changes / adds juice, and to clean it with a qtip.

My advice is, don't use anything that is not sealed at the positive pin 510 connection on your tank / rda / rta, unless you want to deal with juice gathering inside your battery. Yes, the connection is somewhat sealed, but it is just poor practice and with the tanks out these days, there is no reason to not be using a sealed device. And if you are not rebuilding, than a Nautilus is the way to go with the iStick. Plain and simple. You don't need an adapter, zero juice can leak from the 510 connection, and when tightly screwed down to the bare iStick, it seats perfectly and produces a fantastic vape.

That said, I primarily use a mech mod with my drippers simply because I like to tinker, and I love to chase flavor. But, when I am on the go I will pick up my iStick with my Nautilus and know that I will be more than satisfied. I really think the iStick was a match made in heaven for the nautilus and a bvc head. The mini nautilus is even better imo.

So those that are having issues. The solution is simple. Use a regular or mini nautilus. Screw it all the way down, even snug it up tight if you want. I promise it won't budge that positive pin on your iStick. And it won't ever leak. Plus you get great performance and flavor. Stop mucking around with all these other off brand tanks, or even Kanger stuff for that fact.

I have been using my Magma with a dual 26g micro build at 1.1 ohm on my iStick. Sitting at 19 watts, it is really fantastic.
 

KTMRider

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I use "plastic" tanks with no problems. I do not do "tank cracker" flavors because I just feel (personally only!) That if a juice is going to eat plastic what will it do to my poor already damaged lungs? If I use a strong flavor I find an overnight soak in vodka or baking soda/water and a good morning rinse with warm water gets it nice and clean.

This happened with the free juice MBV sent me on my first order. I didn't know about the free juice deal and they sent me Fruity Hoops since I didn't request a flavor. That was the only tank cracker I've used but I'm more paranoid now. I did order 5 mid sections and 5 full tank sections for my Kayfuns.


Really hard to get juice out of the car seat, too. I pyrex/glass now.

What? You mean you don't drive a car with leather seats that caress your .... and eat bon bons wherever you go? So it's just me? :evil:
 

Alto101

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I just received my blue iStick from VapeNW (ebay) and love it so far. I am using both the full size and mini Nautilus tanks with no issues. The tanks make a solid connection every time and look great.

I have decreased the watts that I vape at by about 1 (11 to 10) and the quality of the vape seems comparable to my other devices (ProVari and Innokin vv3.0).

I have not run the battery dead from a full charge yet as I tend to top my devices off when needed. I do think that I am getting excellent battery life so far. The size of this device makes this a game changer for me. Hopefully this mod will last and I will consider a second unit soon or maybe wait for a V2.
 
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redddog

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I doubt it will be any time soon with all the different changes people want.

Agreed. These things are selling like hotcakes right now. They're MONTHS away from a refresh.

It really depends on what the MVP 3 looks like though. If they come out with a similiar size and the improvements everyone wants for the Istick 2, that might force their hand a little.
 

KTMRider

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Just got my Istick in from aceofvapes. This thing is really nifty. Using my kayfun 3.1 on it right now with 1.5ohm coil. Running it at only 10W. So far it is really great.

I've been testing rayon wicks the last 2 days. First wick was too thin and I was getting dry hits. I googled rayon wicks and saw that they're using much more than I was so I copied one of those wicks. Works great now. I'm testing it on a 1.6 ohm build on a Kayfun 3.1 at 6.5 - 7 watts.
 

redordead

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Aug 12, 2014
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The iStick kind of bugs me that my KFL tank always gets loose when it's on there and has to get tightened down a lot.

Failure:
My iStick is also developing the center pin problem that plagued my MVP. Because of the non adjustible center pin, it started to not make contact with some of my tanks and started displaying "No Atomizer". I was able to adjust it up with a screwdriver like with the MVP to get it workig, but this is not an issue I care to deal with again. My ego twist has an adjustible pin, and will fire everything I throw at it every time.

Is there any cheap way to fix this? Worst case scenario, could I replace the O-ring like I did on my MVP? I think by messing with the center pin, I got it to work with all my protanks with aerotank bases, but my Davide tank is a no go because the coil is too far up.
I did the "MVP" fix with the oring and it hasnt missed a beat since. In fact i kinda like it more now, because its kinda spring loaded! [emoji1]
 
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