Eleaf Istick

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Katya

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They look awesome, really slick tanks. And I really want to get the 5 hole mini base for other tanks as well.

ETA: I cant seem to find the 1.8ml size, know of any US vendors?

OK, now remind me again why you don't want this size tank (either Aero or Emow mega)? They are perfect for the iStick and no need for an adapter...

Here's the 1.8ml

http://sweet-vapes.com/clearomizers...nger-77/kanger-clearomizers/aerotank-mow.html

and the mega:

http://sweet-vapes.com/clearomizers...77/kanger-clearomizers/aerotank-mow-mega.html

and Aerotank V1:

http://sweet-vapes.com/clearomizers-cartomizers-tanks/kanger-77/kanger-aerotank/kanger-aerotank.html
 
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Katdarling

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I think the "sickening" amount of Nautilus Mini posts in this thread is due to the fact that the iStick and Nauty Mini are kinda' made for each other...

Put the tiny Nauty Mini on the tiny iStick...slip it into your shirt pocket (like you used to do with your pack of analogs)...and you're out the door for a long night on the town...and...

The Aspire 1.8Ω BVC's shine at higher Wattages (I like 12-14Watts)...the range where the iStick is the most accurate!!!

And imagine the size being even more compact with the new bending adaptor. Could be useful!


Havent been here in a while but I have a general question to all that frequent this thread. I see that many like the nautilus mini as a topper but Im looking for something even slimmer.
Of the very slim glassomizers available, which ones work well ( great flavor, good vapor, least amount of leaking and dry hits) with the istick? I purchased another one so they need some toppers, just been dripping so far.

So, yay or nay on Aspire k1, Aerotank mini, Genitank mini (same but diff airflow), or protank mini's. Do BVC's such as the Aspire K1 do well, and how do dual coil heads compare?

Thanks so much for any help provided, Im a broke chick so I have to narrow it down! :facepalm:

Zelphie, this may be too "old skool" for you, but the Aspire Vivi Nova Mini tank (inexpen$ive, not glass) with a BVC works well. I added the Air Flow Control which also serves to protect the fragile Eleaf threads. It gives that flush look and doesn't add too much height, and looks really good with a slightly larger (19mm) tank.




(repeat pic, but sure to please KTMRider) ;)

I'm not sure about cleaning those BVC coils. They are built more like a cartomizer--the coils are wrapped in fiberglass mesh that tends to crumble when dry. You could probably dry burn the coil safely, but I'm not sure about that mesh. I would just use them til they go bad and throw them out. But that's just me. YMMV

Nopers, it's not just you, hon. I'm very much P 'n P 'n T. (plug 'n play and TOSS).

Kanger should slow down a bit, IMO. They are making so many different clearos and coils and bases that nobody can keep track anymore. :D

Precisely why I opted for Aspire and never looked back. Oodles of choices for tanks, but only 2 versions of the BVCs. I can handle that math! ;)
 

ccwaters

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Anyone wondering about the metal used in the threads; I looked at mine through a loupe and the plating is wearing off the upper-most threads, and the metal underneath looks like brass. The 510 thread is part of the same piece of metal as the top plate, and most plated parts on mods and tanks are either copper or brass, so the brass top plate and threads of the Istick should be no surprise. Brass being rather soft would explain the problem some people have with stripping.

If Eleaf again gives the V2 a single piece top plate and thread, then hopefully it will be made of polished SS which will be much harder and stand up to wear and tear. Otherwise they could use a separate thread of SS inserted into the brass top plate, but if factory QC isn't high enough, an inserted 510 thread may be more prone to shifting with use or be inserted crooked right from the factory. I'd prefer a one-piece top cap and thread made of SS but either way it will cost more, and worth it.

The one I have is not brass, some sort of soft alloy, cuts almost like aluminum, but heavier, a bit softer to cut then Brass. Definitely not something I would use for the application Eleaf chose. These are going to be problems for all but the most carefull, and people who don't change devices often. Appears should be enough room for the Fatdaddy 510, but I've ordered a shorty for the additional clearance. Before that DNA 40 vid was posted I already had that planned, just waiting a bit to ensure I don't get one of the DNA40 boards with the first run issues.

Also don't think it is plated, that seems to be the natural metal with a polish job.

XTV8A1e.jpg


9zOnJhV.jpg


dPxGlSi.jpg
 

scaredmice

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I have the V2 for my minis and they are a pain to adjust--I had to use pliers... :facepalm: But both V2 and V3 work.

discountvapers.com-kangerminivalvepicture.jpg


For my regular Aerotanks, I use both V1 and V2--they are fine. I almost prefer the V1 because it's smaller and doesn't add too much height to the tank. But it's not as accurate as the V2.

discountvapers.com-kangervalvepicture.jpg


Kanger should slow down a bit, IMO. They are making so many different clearos and coils and bases that nobody can keep track anymore. :D

And their clones! I've got a cloned Aerotank, it's like V1, but its AFC is like V3 (and MOW) in the former photo, just not so polished....like a cross between the looks of V1 and the functionality of V3.

Regarding the MOW, it is like 'Mini Tank AFC Valve V3', hence eGo threaded, but a bit bigger, so its walls are thicker and it seems really sturdy, and it is all stainless steel except the black chromed brass sleeve for the tank, but there are not brass parts in contact with e-liquid, at least on the tank (head coil could be otherwise).

Both genuine miniprotanks 3 and aerotanks V1, and of course their clones, have their bases in nickel chromed brass and some slight parts (base threads) actually are in touch with the e-liquid.... despite their intentions covering them with silicon or PTFE washers or o-rings. Not a big problem though, as long as you check them periodically....
 

KTMRider

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The one I have is not brass, some sort of soft alloy, cuts almost like aluminum, but heavier, a bit softer to cut then Brass. Definitely not something I would use for the application Eleaf chose. These are going to be problems for all but the most carefull, and people who don't change devices often. Appears should be enough room for the Fatdaddy 510, but I've ordered a shorty for the additional clearance. Before that DNA 40 vid was posted I already had that planned, just waiting a bit to ensure I don't get one of the DNA40 boards with the first run issues.

Also don't think it is plated, that seems to be the natural metal with a polish job.

I ordered a few 14mm and 22mm from VariTube (they're finally back in stock!!!). I was planning on putting one on the istick if I have issues with the connector.
 

scaredmice

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The one I have is not brass, some sort of soft alloy, cuts almost like aluminum, but heavier, a bit softer to cut then Brass. Definitely not something I would use for the application Eleaf chose. These are going to be problems for all but the most carefull, and people who don't change devices often. Appears should be enough room for the Fatdaddy 510, but I've ordered a shorty for the additional clearance. Before that DNA 40 vid was posted I already had that planned, just waiting a bit to ensure I don't get one of the DNA40 boards with the first run issues.

Also don't think it is plated, that seems to be the natural metal with a polish job.

XTV8A1e.jpg


9zOnJhV.jpg


dPxGlSi.jpg


Then it might be Nickel silver - Wikipedia, the free encyclopedia, another copper alloy which suits better on jewelry and some technical applications, but it is not so suited for electronics (as conductive base for a conector, because it has high resistivity). The unpolished underneath photos you've posted point me to it....

Apropos the Fat Daddy, I'm certain it does not fit under the plate without any spacer, at least the 14/22 version I've put on my Hana clon. It might fit with a shortened version of the M10x1 threads. Do not forget that the space under the 510 plinth is mostly filled with the firing actuator!
 
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ccwaters

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Then it might be Nickel silver - Wikipedia, the free encyclopedia, another copper alloy which suits better on jewelry and some technical applications, but it is not so suited for electronics (as conductive base for a conector, because it has high resistivity). The unpolished underneath photos you've posted point me to it....

Apropos the Fat Daddy, I'm certain it does not fit under the plate without any spacer, at least the 14/22 version I've put on my Hana clon. It might fit with a shortened version of the M10x1 threads. Do not forget that the space under the 510 plinth is mostly filled with the firing actuator!

Agreed on the pictured connector, with Eleaf electronics, but using a small tactile button with different electronics should be enough room, I'll save the standard Fatdaddy for other apps, the shorty should be here this week.
 

froginblender

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I have one--collecting dust. The draw is impossibly tight, at least for my taste, and I keep getting dry hits all the time--even though I'm very careful with priming the coils. I like regulated air flow.

Mine is old--it came with pretty bad BDC coils.

Katya, use the bvc coils (non-nautilus) ones.
And like i said in earlier post, i enlarge the airholes with sharp knife...lol...don't have a small enough drill bit, and it only took like 5 to 10 minutes for both hole enlargement.
you can view my crafty knife work here:
lol - https://www.flickr.com/photos/127571667@N07/15425579365/in/photostream/lightbox/
 

Zelphie

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I have the V2 for my minis and they are a pain to adjust--I had to use pliers... :facepalm: But both V2 and V3 work.

discountvapers.com-kangerminivalvepicture.jpg


For my regular Aerotanks, I use both V1 and V2--they are fine. I almost prefer the V1 because it's smaller and doesn't add too much height to the tank. But it's not as accurate as the V2.

discountvapers.com-kangervalvepicture.jpg


Kanger should slow down a bit, IMO. They are making so many different clearos and coils and bases that nobody can keep track anymore. :D

Your right! Its been quite confusing. PT v1 v2 v3, different heads, different bases, Aerotank v1 v2 v3 bases, and then cloned themselves with the lower cost Genitank with v3 base. But notice that they didn't make any cheaper than getting a Protank and purchasing a separate airflow controller if you wanted a v3. Riddle me this riddle me that .....:laugh:

Remember when vaping was simply "go to Cignot get a 510 and a drip tip unless you want to blue foam and tea bag it"...done! I don't know how new comers do it. I go to the new members section and realize they are years ahead of me.
 

Zelphie

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OK, now remind me again why you don't want this size tank (either Aero or Emow mega)? They are perfect for the iStick and no need for an adapter...

Here's the 1.8ml

Kanger Aerotank Mow - Kanger Clearomizers - Kanger - Clearomizers Tanks

and the mega:

Kanger Aerotank Mow Mega - Kanger Clearomizers - Kanger - Clearomizers Tanks

and Aerotank V1:

Kanger Aerotank V1 - Kanger Aerotank - Kanger - Clearomizers Tanks

Uh, umm, I dunno, Im confused. Let me think of a good reason......
Those are a lot shorter, and look great. And she starts from scratch.
 

Zelphie

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And imagine the size being even more compact with the new bending adaptor. Could be useful!




Zelphie, this may be too "old skool" for you, but the Aspire Vivi Nova Mini tank (inexpen$ive, not glass) with a BVC works well. I added the Air Flow Control which also serves to protect the fragile Eleaf threads. It gives that flush look and doesn't add too much height, and looks really good with a slightly larger (19mm) tank.




(repeat pic, but sure to please KTMRider) ;)



Nopers, it's not just you, hon. I'm very much P 'n P 'n T. (plug 'n play and TOSS).



Precisely why I opted for Aspire and never looked back. Oodles of choices for tanks, but only 2 versions of the BVCs. I can handle that math! ;)

Actually I never even tried the Vivi Nova's so nothing is out of the question if it works well and taste good. After a very brief trial of really bad clearomizers a few years ago I gave up and just kept dripping, so my experience with everything that came after all the disappointing first gen ones is nada.
 

aznnp77

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Darnit, my iStick is starting to have center pin issues :(

I switched out the 510/ego ego adapter on it, and it worked pretty well for a few days, but after a while, it gets pushed down too far and has to be adjusted with a screwdriver again.

Luckily, my trusty old ego twist has an adjustible 510, and will fire everrrything, so it doesn't leave me in a bind. That's why I carry both on me at all times.

It hasn't gotten terrible yet, but has anyone actually tried the Danco O-ring fix on the iStick yet? I hate to do it, but it may come to that point in the future.
 

scaredmice

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Speaking of, what exactly is this bending adapter? I looked at it on the eleaf website, and I can't figure out why or what it is used for.....ELI5 please.

You did say 'explain it to me like I'm five', didn't you?....:)

wow.jpg

Once you've put the atomizer in its intended place, you can use it, with the benefit of protecting the threads on the mod and limiting somehow the 'sinking effect' of long 510 male conector over the central pole of the iStick, but you can also bend it over the side of the mod, after pressing the button, so the combination changes from a long vertical to a not so long (but wider) packet. It also reduces to near zero the bending stress over the 510 conector, as many have complained about them if you try to wear them in a pocket, or at least it moves them from the 510 to the adaptor hinge...

It is up to the personal taste of each one to decide if it is worthwhile or not. I just think it is a really interesting idea, but a devised-one after our input about the evident weakness of the iStick's 510 conector.

They are becoming masters of the improvisation... but at least they value, somehow, our input as customers...

The thing was to design the tiniest 20W VW mod possible....they delivered, but with some unavoidable constraints from its design choices, those which granted this little marvel, like the fixed battery (a removable one would made a bigger mod), an internal PCB with just actuators and no soldered cables for buttons (again, a bigger PCB), electronics based in something quite different of what we've become accostumed to (hence the unusual heat sink inside, and also possibly the PWM output, but with less weight and size), and finally the simplest 510 available, which happens to be our well known plain rubber grommet 510 from eGo, just upgraded to retain liquids.....

We've passionately accepted their invention, even with its minor drawbacks, but they are improving it.... with accesories.
 

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oplholik

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Both genuine miniprotanks 3 and aerotanks V1, and of course their clones, have their bases in nickel chromed brass and some slight parts (base threads) actually are in touch with the e-liquid.... despite their intentions covering them with silicon or PTFE washers or o-rings. Not a big problem though, as long as you check them periodically....[/QUOTE]

If concerned about brass leeching lead, there is a way to pickle the brass to take care of that. I remember seeing this a while back, but couldn't remember where, so some kind folks on the Reos forum came to the rescue. Here is my thread, Might be helpful to you. :): http://www.e-cigarette-forum.com/forum/reos-mods/620404-looking-particular-thread.html
 

op22222

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You did say 'explain it to me like I'm five', didn't you?....:)

View attachment 386930

Once you've put the atomizer in its intended place, you can use it, with the benefit of protecting the threads on the mod and limiting somehow the 'sinking effect' of long 510 male conector over the central pole of the iStick, but you can also bend it over the side of the mod, after pressing the button, so the combination changes from a long vertical to a not so long (but wider) packet. It also reduces to near zero the bending stress over the 510 conector, as many have complained about them if you try to wear them in a pocket, or at least it moves them from the 510 to the adaptor hinge...

It is up to the personal taste of each one to decide if it is worthwhile or not. I just think it is a really interesting idea, but a devised-one after our input about the evident weakness of the iStick's 510 conector.

They are becoming masters of the improvisation... but at least they value, somehow, our input as customers...

The thing was to design the tiniest 20W VW mod possible....they delivered, but with some unavoidable constraints from its design choices, those which granted this little marvel, like the fixed battery (a removable one would made a bigger mod), an internal PCB with just actuators and no soldered cables for buttons (again, a bigger PCB), electronics based in something quite different of what we've become accostumed to (hence the unusual heat sink inside, and also possibly the PWM output, but with less weight and size), and finally the simplest 510 available, which happens to be our well known plain rubber grommet 510 from eGo, just upgraded to retain liquids.....

We've passionately accepted their invention, even with its minor drawbacks, but they are improving it.... with accesories.

Scaredmice...Would also like to add that the istick is somewhat mod-able. For one....Replacement of the battery should be a fairly easy task. The 510 connector also seems doable as seen here in this thread. As far as converting to a DNA circuit, well, not so easy, but i am very content with the original electronics and like how powerful it is . And, it is very easy to put a wrap on it if your not concerned about covering the LED area. (85mm x 70.7mm works for me). Plus the fact that it has made my life a bit simpler due to the ease of the USB charging opposed the PITA ego and battery chargers.
 

francisthepig

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I'm real curious to see this in action. Using a mini nautilus, it just barely touches the firing button at 180 degrees. It appears it would rub the black strip. It also appears that a full size nauti wouldn't even open the full 180 degrees. This is just me laying my iStick flat and trying to see where it would open up at with these two tanks.

You did say 'explain it to me like I'm five', didn't you?....:)

View attachment 386930

Once you've put the atomizer in its intended place, you can use it, with the benefit of protecting the threads on the mod and limiting somehow the 'sinking effect' of long 510 male conector over the central pole of the iStick, but you can also bend it over the side of the mod, after pressing the button, so the combination changes from a long vertical to a not so long (but wider) packet. It also reduces to near zero the bending stress over the 510 conector, as many have complained about them if you try to wear them in a pocket, or at least it moves them from the 510 to the adaptor hinge...

It is up to the personal taste of each one to decide if it is worthwhile or not. I just think it is a really interesting idea, but a devised-one after our input about the evident weakness of the iStick's 510 conector.

They are becoming masters of the improvisation... but at least they value, somehow, our input as customers...

The thing was to design the tiniest 20W VW mod possible....they delivered, but with some unavoidable constraints from its design choices, those which granted this little marvel, like the fixed battery (a removable one would made a bigger mod), an internal PCB with just actuators and no soldered cables for buttons (again, a bigger PCB), electronics based in something quite different of what we've become accostumed to (hence the unusual heat sink inside, and also possibly the PWM output, but with less weight and size), and finally the simplest 510 available, which happens to be our well known plain rubber grommet 510 from eGo, just upgraded to retain liquids.....

We've passionately accepted their invention, even with its minor drawbacks, but they are improving it.... with accesories.
 
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