Eleaf Istick

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Katya

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Nice to see this I thought I was out to lunch for awhile, everyone rockin the stick and mine just an evil ...... I rarely got two hits the same, the difference is mine is not a little hotter sometimes it`s off the charts. Example 3 ohm coil at the lowest setting allowed around 4.2 watts as I recall getting hits much hotter then the dna at 15 watts. Not always it`s random. The dna is consistent.

I'm so sorry. Is it too late to contact the seller and try to exchange it?
 
I must not understand. I thought Phil said that the eleaf running Mean is running hotter than the equivalent RMS. Here at 3.0 reading the Mean is 5+ Watts and the RMS is 10+ Watts (at 1.5Ω)???

With a 1.5 ohm coil, if the Istick display reads 6.0 watts (mean), you are actually running about 12 watts RMS, which explains why the Istick appears to run hotter than the display would suggest. That means that a 6 watt displayed setting on an Istick with a 1.5 coil will vape the same as the same coil running 12 watts on a unit calibrated in RMS. Just find the point where the mean line for a certain coil resistance crosses the power line of interest. Draw an imaginary vertical line from that point to find the equivalent wattage for RMS (where the RMS line for the same resistance crosses the imaginary vertical line).

The point of my original post was that there is a simple way to calculate the RMS equivalent settings from the Istick displayed settings.Just enter VW mode and set the power in watts. Then, multiply the voltage displayed on that wattage setting by 5.5 volts and divide by the resistance of the coil. The result will be the (higher) equivalent watts in RMS. The charts above reflect that exact formula. The other post shows how that formula is derived.

Finding the equivalent RMS watts allows you to dial in the correct mean setting on the Istick to match an RMS-based power recommendation from another table or review for a given device.

One thing about the chart...it doesn't reflect the maximum 20 watt limit of the Istick for the 1.0 ohm coil. I showed the higher wattage (above 20 watts) so you can see how the Mean Watts and RMS Watts converge and become equal as the displayed voltage reaches the peak voltage of the Istick (5.5v). For a 1.0 ohm coil, you can't ever get to that equivalent point. You can with higher coil resistances, though.

Best regards,

Don
 

Silver5656

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A question to all of you Nautilus fans.

Has anyone seen/used those Aspire coils modded by Cisco? They look very interesting, but only one review so far. However, if those coil heads are as good as his atties, that would be a solution for me (and others who have doubts about the stupid fiberglass wicks that Aspire is using in their BVC coils).

http://www.avidvaper.com/aspire-nautilus-cisco-spec-hh-replacement-coils/

What do you guys think? Good idea? Bad idea?

wow 10 bux for a coil.............thats 5x more expensive than a stock coil. although if you want a 1.0 ohm coil its your only choice
 

Katya

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The point of my original post was that there is a simple way to calculate the RMS equivalent settings from the Istick displayed settings.Just enter VW mode and set the power in watts. Then, multiply the voltage displayed on that wattage setting by 5.5 volts and divide by the resistance of the coil. The result will be the (higher) equivalent watts in RMS. The charts above reflect that exact formula. The other post shows how that formula is derived.

Finally a simple way to calculate the RMS equivalents! :D ;)

Seriously--thanks for the explanation!
 

Katya

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wow 10 bux for a coil.............thats 5x more expensive than a stock coil. although if you want a 1.0 ohm coil its your only choice

But it's not a disposable coil--rinse, dry burn and repeat. Cisco atties last for months with little care. They are legendary.

And no, I don't want a 1Ω coil--I want a coil without fiberglass. ;)
 

Ryan Lee

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This darned thread is just getting crazy, I can no longer keep up! But I do have a couple suggestions from a quick browse through!

I am still seeing charts pop up about rms and such. What ever happened to just starting at the lowest setting possible, and working up until you find your sweet spot!? I think people are getting WAY to scientific about this amazing device for dirt cheap!

And to note, all 3 of mine are still kicking like they were on day 1! No threading issues, still holding a charge for days, and still making my "on the go" vape experience quite pleasant!

And lastly as promised, a pic with my Orchid v4 on the istick. I know I am year late so don't hate me! She is a bit top heavy, but the performance is blissful!
BuUg86z.jpg
 

Ryan Lee

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But it's not a disposable coil--rinse, dry burn and repeat. Cisco atties last for months with little care. They are legendary.

And no, I don't want a 1Ω coil--I want a coil without fiberglass. ;)

Ok woah, I am intrigued! Do you have a link to any pics or a video of these being disassembled and cleaned? Are they vertical? Wicking material?
 

Katya

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Ok woah, I am intrigued! Do you have a link to any pics or a video of these being disassembled and cleaned? Are they vertical? Wicking material?

I wish I did. I'm intrigued too. I'm so intrigued that I may even send them an email and ask about details. I assume it's a vertical coil and stainless steel mesh, but I have no clue, really.

But if those coils are anything like his atties, I'm game.
 

friediceman

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A question to all of you Nautilus fans.

Has anyone seen/used those Aspire coils modded by Cisco? They look very interesting, but only one review so far. However, if those coil heads are as good as his atties, that would be a solution for me (and others who have doubts about the stupid fiberglass wicks that Aspire is using in their BVC coils).

http://www.avidvaper.com/aspire-nautilus-cisco-spec-hh-replacement-coils/

What do you guys think? Good idea? Bad idea?

Hmmmm, so this coil can be cleaned and reused, is that what he's claiming?
 

friediceman

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But it's not a disposable coil--rinse, dry burn and repeat. Cisco atties last for months with little care. They are legendary.

And no, I don't want a 1Ω coil--I want a coil without fiberglass. ;)

I see. We are looking at 5 or more times of re-use to beat the stock coil. I'm interested in seeing the inside and some reviews before taking the plunge.
 

four2109

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It's a mechanical issue with the button. There's a tiny clicker type metal disk to close the circuit and it can move around inside the button that will not complete the circuit so it doesn't fire.
That sounds good, but I think the timing of this is too consistent to be something random like a metal disk floating around in the switch. I wouldn't be surprised if it happened every x # of fires, but I'm not counting them.:blink: That would be cool to know, and then we would have a counter. lol. Not that that matters either.


On another topic, of this voltage swing. I initially settled in at a pretty consistent 8 watts after I got my istick. I have noticed that I am content at 4-5 now. The only thing that has changed is that I bought some WTA liquid which has forced me to use VG. I prefer straight PG. I get some harsh hits now, but with the other variables of VG and viscosity, which doesn't feed as well, I think it's simplistic to blame the istick. JM.02
 

four2109

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And in other news--the bending adapter is already available in Europe for 5.95 € (including VAT and shipping), so it may be quite reasonable pricewise.

Eleaf iStick bending adaptor - eDampf-Shop

I didn't think I would be interested considering the extra height, but now I think I might put it on one to use out and about. It would be much easier to pocket that way.
 

Katdarling

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Hi Kat!
13.gif
Ive been wondering, but cant decipher the gibberish Im finding. What does step down mean, and what does it mean when a device doesn't step down.

I'm pretty sure this was answered for you, and my technical expertise, is .... lacking, to say the least. From my limited understanding, step down means that the device can output less than the current battery voltage. When a device does not step down, it means the device cannot control the voltage at a level that the battery is putting out. In these cases, it will act in the same way as an unregulated device (such a mechanical) (or a large majority of cig-a-likes that are on the market today). In simplest terms, it means that the voltage you're vaping at will continually decrease to whatever voltage the battery is outputting at that moment.

This darned thread is just getting crazy, I can no longer keep up! But I do have a couple suggestions from a quick browse through!

I am still seeing charts pop up about rms and such. What ever happened to just starting at the lowest setting possible, and working up until you find your sweet spot!? I think people are getting WAY to scientific about this amazing device for dirt cheap!

And to note, all 3 of mine are still kicking like they were on day 1! No threading issues, still holding a charge for days, and still making my "on the go" vape experience quite pleasant!

And lastly as promised, a pic with my Orchid v4 on the istick. I know I am year late so don't hate me! She is a bit top heavy, but the performance is blissful!
BuUg86z.jpg

In my mind and experience, Ryan Lee, that is still the best way to vape. Without a doubt or hesitation. I can not do charts.


I wish I did. I'm intrigued too. I'm so intrigued that I may even send them an email and ask about details. I assume it's a vertical coil and stainless steel mesh, but I have no clue, really.

But if those coils are anything like his atties, I'm game.


His attIEs were fantastic...... so there's a great pastibility that these coils will be outstanding as well.

Hi Kat-ya ya ya ya
 

Katya

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And hi back atcha, Katchaya. You think "Brandon" and you think me? I LIKE IT! :D

I do I do Kat!
smileys-waving-170093.gif


I'm pretty sure this was answered for you, and my technical expertise, is ....

Wrong Kat, Kat. :p You of all people should be able to tell us apart. :D

His attIEs were fantastic...... so there's a great pastibility that these coils will be outstanding as well.

Hi Kat-ya ya ya ya

They are fantastic. That's why I'm so intrigued, Kat darling! Should I take one for the team? Hmmm....

Or should I just get with the program and get that Naughty, fiberglass and all? Hmmm?

Am I being paranoid? Don't answer that!!!!!!!!!!
 

four2109

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Since all this technical talk is over my head, can we get back to whats really important? Like how cute this is? I mean seriously, what else matters?? :wub:
I'm glad you finally got it!:) I know what that wait is like! It was worth it though wasn't it?:laugh: I just won't deal with her again.
 

scaredmice

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I will add to the convo and say I have a much better experience overall with the iStick when I use coils at about 1.8-2.2 ohm. Anything lower just burns too hot (in Nautilus Mini o Aerotank)

Just for your information, I usually vape on a dripper (a Trident V2) with just a single coil at 1,1 - 1,3 ohm and natural cotton, and at 15 - 20 W (as they are shown on screen, but in this time, as it is near 5,5 V of output, they are reasonably true watts) it is simply awesome......

.... but a bit short on endurance, and it gets hot if you chain vape. Not up to the point of getting fire or burning you.... but remarkably hot....

I can deplete the battery in less than one hour (and if I get frantic, even less than 30 minutes) in that way, but I also need to ventilate often.....:D

Did I tell you that I bought a dedicated Trident for my iStick? It's black coated (chromed anodized stainless steel).... Oh, yes! I did post a photo of them!

:laugh:
 

KTMRider

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And in other news--the bending adapter is already available in Europe for 5.95 € (including VAT and shipping), so it may be quite reasonable pricewise.

Eleaf iStick bending adaptor - eDampf-Shop

Available 11/21/14 (US date format). It looks like it'll be under $10 which is a good price point. I'd still rather have a VT 510 connector :D.
 
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