Eleaf Istick

[lulu836]

As for the dry-hit problems... I had to constantly remind myself that bottom-coil clearos and RTAs are vacuum devices; i.e. they use the vacuum created by our puffs to feed the juice to the wicks. If we have adjustable air-flow control (AFC) and start experiencing drying, we can tighten the draw (close down the air-flow) a little at a time until we have full-flavor again. Without AFC, we just have to puff a little harder for more vacuum and better juice feeding. Normally we could simply back off the volts/watts a bit. But if we're already at 3 iStick Volts, we have little choice.

ETA: I personally don't like having juice feeding tied to air-flow. But that's where we are currently with bottom-coil devices...

OK we're on the right track here. It's the staying with the 3 iStick Volts that makes me crazy. I've heard rumors of a V2 that will maybe be tuned with RMS but it is everlastingly too late for the thousands of us who have the ones tuned to AVG. So to my original question.......what do the rest of you guys do? Vape @ 3V for a while? KFLs have air flow control and I build coils at 1.5 - 1.8 so I am within spec for the PV. Just curious.

 

[redddog]

Sounds like a candidate for the o-ring fix.

Anyone have a link to those instructions?

 

[Woofer]

OK we're on the right track here. It's the staying with the 3 iStick Volts that makes me crazy. I've heard rumors of a V2 that will maybe be tuned with RMS but it is everlastingly too late for the thousands of us who have the ones tuned to AVG. So to my original question.......what do the rest of you guys do? Vape @ 3V for a while? KFLs have air flow control and I build coils at 1.5 - 1.8 so I am within spec for the PV. Just curious.

Seems that some iSticks have a problem that goes beyond AVG vs RMS. I have on of them, I got burnt hits regardless of the topper, Kanger, Asprie Russian 91% with a 3 ohm coil, none worked even at the lowest power setting. Thing is I can put any on them on my Vaporshark and they work perfectly.
R91% on the shark at 8 to 15 watts perfect, on the stick at lowest power no go.

 

[KTMRider]

Quick question...

Mine's fine but my brother had an isick and a Mini Vivi Nova come apart in his pocket (I know, I know. He's an idiot.)

So he took it to a B&M (a stupid one) and they only had one 510 tank and it read "No Attomizer" when fired. Does it read that if the pin is too low? Could it have been a sub-ohm coil?

Not sure what that means.

You need to lift the center pin on the Istick to make contact.

Seems that some iSticks have a problem that goes beyond AVG vs RMS. I have on of them, I got burnt hits regardless of the topper, Kanger, Asprie Russian 91% with a 3 ohm coil, none worked even at the lowest power setting. Thing is I can put any on them on my Vaporshark and they work perfectly.
R91% on the shark at 8 to 15 watts perfect, on the stick at lowest power no go.

I've been using KF's and Erlk's on my Istick with no issues at all. 1.4Ω-1.8Ω coils at 6w-8w. I've gone up to 18w with no dry hits after chain vaping too. Right now, I'm using a KFL+ v2 with a 1.6Ω (28g, 2.38 ID) and rayon at 7.5w.

 

[aldenf]

Seems that some iSticks have a problem that goes beyond AVG vs RMS. I have on of them, I got burnt hits regardless of the topper, Kanger, Asprie Russian 91% with a 3 ohm coil, none worked even at the lowest power setting. Thing is I can put any on them on my Vaporshark and they work perfectly.
R91% on the shark at 8 to 15 watts perfect, on the stick at lowest power no go.

Yeah. Sounds like a defective iStick, I'd return it if I could... As much as I adore my iStick, they are causing far too many headaches and internet traffic for a significant amount of people (30+%). This is why I was so hard on the iStick when it was first released. All its little issues make it difficult for a new or plug-and-puff vaper to diagnose and fix. For experienced or "advanced" vapers that received iSticks functioning the way Eleaf intended, they are incredible.

My suggestion to new or plug-and-puff vapers... Assuming you have a correctly functioning iStick, go with attys that have spring-loaded 510 connections (like the Nautiluses) and adjust your air-flow control to achieve a satisfying vape. This should help prevent a lot of the issues many are reporting.

Should we list all the clearos that have spring-loaded posts for people looking for solutions?

 

[Kent C]

We haven't seen the MVP3 with DNA chipset yet so we don't know its size, but I fully expect it to be smaller than the current non-DNA MVP2. The Vapor Shark DNA is small--the rDNA is just a little larger, but still small--IMO. The new Opus looks small too. VTR is too heavy--but who knows, maybe they'll offer an rDNA sometime in the future.

Anyway, they are all smaller and lighter and feel more comfortable in my hand than big tube mods.

I didn't have any info to make that prediction (bold). Have you had the DNA and rDNA 'in hand'? Wondered about them... Look small and took the measurements to compare but not like handling one. If the DNA had a replaceable batt, (and a DNA-40), I'd have one now.

 

[redddog]

anyone know the o-ring size for the pin fix?

 

[Kent C]

I really like my dual coil Kanger tanks--Aerotank and Emow mega--1.8Ω. They come with airflow control valves (which makes all the difference in the world as far as vape quality) and they mount flush on the Stick.

Which Aerotank? Regular Aerotank, V2, or Aerotank Mega? And without the adapter, I assume.... I'm currently using the mini w/adapter but would like more capacity without going over the edge

Kangertech Aerotank 2, Aerotank Mini, Aerotank Mega, Aerotank Giant

 

[KTMRider]

I didn't have any info to make that prediction (bold). Have you had the DNA and rDNA 'in hand'? Wondered about them... Look small and took the measurements to compare but not like handling one. If the DNA had a replaceable batt, (and a DNA-40), I'd have one now.

Innokin put out some hints last month as to what the next MVP will have. There's been nothing else since.
http://www.reddit.com/r/Innokin/comments/2ilnip/innokin_itaste_mvp30_official_reddit_announcement/


The DNA 30 is about the same size as the Istick but not user-replaceable battery and more boxy. It has a 1300mah Lipo. The rDNA 30 is slightly larger but still smaller than a Hana or MVP2. It uses a 18650 that you can replace by removing 1 screw. The rDNA 40 is 3mm thicker than the rDNA 30 because it has built-in wireless charging (Qi compatible). It has a magnet to hold the door for the 18650.

 

[KTMRider]

anyone know the o-ring size for the pin fix?

#60 o-ring from Home Depot or Lowe's.

 

[Wolfenstark]

Hello How long has the istick been taking for a full recharge ?

 

[spaceballsrules]

Hello How long has the istick been taking for a full recharge ?

From zero charge, it takes mine ~2 hours to reach full charge. I am using the included USB cord with the eLeaf 1 amp wall adapter.

 

[irwink]

OK we're on the right track here. It's the staying with the 3 iStick Volts that makes me crazy. I've heard rumors of a V2 that will maybe be tuned with RMS but it is everlastingly too late for the thousands of us who have the ones tuned to AVG. So to my original question.......what do the rest of you guys do? Vape @ 3V for a while? KFLs have air flow control and I build coils at 1.5 - 1.8 so I am within spec for the PV. Just curious.

I largely ignore the iStick's indicated voltage/wattage. As someone quite a few pages back stated, think of a volume control knob that steps form 1 minimum to 10 (or whatever) maximum.

 

[Woofer]

I've been using KF's and Erlk's on my Istick with no issues at all. 1.4Ω-1.8Ω coils at 6w-8w. I've gone up to 18w with no dry hits after chain vaping too. Right now, I'm using a KFL+ v2 with a 1.6Ω (28g, 2.38 ID) and rayon at 7.5w.

Yes that seems reasonable, wish I could say mine performed the same! I wish I had an answer, user error wicking issues being the most obvious one. I don`t think this`s it though. I can put the r91% on the vaporshark with kanthal coils and chain vape all evening without a single nasty hit.

Most are having a much better experience, glad you are one of them.

 

[Woofer]

I didn't have any info to make that prediction (bold). Have you had the DNA and rDNA 'in hand'? Wondered about them... Look small and took the measurements to compare but not like handling one. If the DNA had a replaceable batt, (and a DNA-40), I'd have one now.

FWIW I prefer the in hand feel of the rDna 40, my hands are probably larger then average.

 

[Wolfenstark]

From zero charge, it takes mine ~2 hours to reach full charge. I am using the included USB cord with the eLeaf 1 amp wall adapter.

I'm using the cord that came with the istick plugged into an adapter I got from another place. Just a usual usb - outlet adapter.
Today the istick took around 5 hours to charge. The battery icon had the flashing lightning in it and i checked it after 4 and a half hours and still going then a while later it was blank and i pressed the button and display lit up and battery icon was full with no lightning symbol.

 

[Kent C]

Innokin put out some hints last month as to what the next MVP will have. There's been nothing else since.
http://www.reddit.com/r/Innokin/comments/2ilnip/innokin_itaste_mvp30_official_reddit_announcement/


The DNA 30 is about the same size as the Istick but not user-replaceable battery and more boxy. It has a 1300mah Lipo. The rDNA 30 is slightly larger but still smaller than a Hana or MVP2. It uses a 18650 that you can replace by removing 1 screw. The rDNA 40 is 3mm thicker than the rDNA 30 because it has built-in wireless charging (Qi compatible). It has a magnet to hold the door for the 18650.

I saw this: "No solid info, but with the chip change and battery increase it's probably going to creep up to Hana (Mini?) size or maybe a little larger". I have the MVP2 (NIB and not used because of size), but from dimensions listed:

3.43″L x 1.941"W x 1″D Hana Mini
vs.
4.21"L x 1.61"W x 0.86"D MVP2

... it is bigger than the Hana Mini, so perhaps they've made it smaller (unless the "?" means that it could be the size of the regular Hana

So far I haven't seen any plans to put the DNA 40 in the DNA VS, but I haven't been tracking that closely, but I'd likely pop for the rDNA (40) for the reasons you mention...

 

[DaveOno]

I've enjoyed my iStick since Mid September.

I notice the "Phanthom Hit" becoming much more frequent. The phanthom hit is when you hit the button, feel and/or hear the click, but nothing happens. It used to occur once or twice a day, but now I'll get it maybe 5 or 6 times a day.

There are times I catch it, holding the button and nothing on the screen. I've never noticed it while the display is still on (before it times out to dark). But a few times, while holding the button with no fire, I could give one of the arrow keys a click, and the stick starts to fire. I made sure I wasn't re-hitting the fire button.

This makes me think it is not mechanical (with a sometimes bad contact on the fire button), but rather a software issue.

But after 2 months, that is the only thing I see that is degrading. Bat life remains superb. I minimize the wear on the threads by always using an adapter.

How much do I like it? If this iStick stopped working today, I would not hesitate to buy another one. OK?

 

[aldenf]

Innokin put out some hints last month as to what the next MVP will have. There's been nothing else since.
http://www.reddit.com/r/Innokin/comments/2ilnip/innokin_itaste_mvp30_official_reddit_announcement/


The DNA 30 is about the same size as the Istick but not user-replaceable battery and more boxy. It has a 1300mah Lipo. The rDNA 30 is slightly larger but still smaller than a Hana or MVP2. It uses a 18650 that you can replace by removing 1 screw. The rDNA 40 is 3mm thicker than the rDNA 30 because it has built-in wireless charging (Qi compatible). It has a magnet to hold the door for the 18650.

The VaporSharks are great! But they start at $120 for the VS DNA 30 w/1200mAh LiPo. That's more than 4X the iStick. It's intended for a very different demographic.

As for the MVP3... In the link you posted above:

---"There will be more than one edition. One will be at a lower price point that will be at least 30W as well as an advanced edition that will run a customized Evolv chipset with precise higher wattage and feature new advances in technology which take it above and beyond the competition. There may be another very innovative model which will be launched in the future as well."

This is too bad. The 25w with temp control seems like a perfect choice for an "entry level" MVPv3.

---"The MVP3.0 will have a larger battery capacity than the MVP2.0."

This will also prove interesting. It is normally the chosen battery that primarily determines overall size of device. Unless Innokin is having custom LiPo batteries made for them (FINALLY?!?), I can't see how much smaller than the MVPv2 they can get with a noticeably larger battery.


IMHO, an MVPv3 with the new Evolv 25w chipset and replaceable 18650 (with USB charging, of course) in a VS rDNA-like form-factor, @ $75 or less would be a true winner. The SVD 2.0 is currently selling for $90-100. So, $75 or less is probably unrealistic for the MVPv3. These devices are also aimed at a different demographics than the iStick.

I'm simply hoping that Eleaf gets the iStick v2 right. Vrms tuning and a spring-loaded, durable 510 connection, <$50, would put much of the competition on major notice. The iStick is perfect for 85% of my vaping and amazing for 100% of the majority of vapers.

 

[donf99]

I set mine for good taste and vapor with the Nautilus Mini (8 watts for me) then click up a few watts when the battery hits 2/3 and I feel the power reduce because of the battery saver and average/RMS issue (see my other posts). I can tell when the power drop occurs as the rattlesnaking feel suddenly changes as I vape. Not a change in frequency, but the draw gets smoother as the duty cycle increases.

Don