Eleaf Istick
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I missed getting a istick from them, but I did score a VTR for $35 so all was not lost......
I've been trying my istick with a wide variety of toppers and topper styles. The ohms of the topper is not a problem, as much as how well the eliquid flow and air flow affects the vape. I have a brand new Orchid V4 today and built it out with 30ga wire to a dual coil 1.1Ω setup. It vapes very well at 12-15 stick-watts. I've found more problems with bottom coil toppers as they restrict eliquid more to prevent leaking. My top coil toppers (Vivi-Nova) work very well at 1.6-2.0Ω. but they have been modified to provide better eliquid supply with slightly thicker 50/50 PG/VG eliquid. Genny tanks work well also, (with a Genny tilt) at almost any resistance. Dripping a 801 atomizer or eGo TypeB also work very well at their higher resistance, 2.5-3.0Ω
Yes, I started with the Naughty Mini... loved the performance of the bvc's, hated the form factor and ever present metallic taste of the Naughty. Sold It.
Picked up a CE5, K1, and Mini Vivi (all BVC). I have never had any issues with any of them on my Stick. All of them perform every bit as great as the Nautilus (with a more restrictive air flow, of course).
Of the three, the K1 looks the best (stand alone) but I like the aesthetics and form factor of the Mini Vivi best on the Istick. It just looks very balanced and proportional.
Vaping on that setup now as I type this
Sidebar; I hear that the full size Vivi sometimes has issues with the base getting stuck on the tank.
This would be better addressed to the fellow I was replying to. It was his opinion that nothing more then higher resistance coils are needed to fix the stick. He claims it`s not rocket science (it`s operator error). I don`t disagree with your statement, however it`s little consolation or help. I have a stick that I can not use and can not return.
The difference in mean and RMS is only in the number shown in the display, not a difference in output. Anymore that measuring temperature in celsius, farenhight, of kelvin....no matter the number on the thermometer, you freeze your buns off when you walk outside, particularly in the past week....
Yeah I get that too. What several of us are experiencing at times is wildly varying power delivery almost to the point where no two consecutive hits are the same.
The most difficult thing about this thread is trying to help people without annoying or insulting someone...
First of all, if you have an iStick that is performing the way Eleaf intended (mean voltage and all) you CAN obtain an amazing vape. Many on this thread will attest to it. Keep the faith and ask questions. Most of us don't bite.
The problems we've seen in the thread range from the well-known mean vs rms voltage issue, poor workmanship/materials (510 connection), apparent poor quality control (poor regulation?) and a large chunk of its target demographics. The last point being that the iStick should be perfect for new vapers and vapers who don't care and don't want to know how all this works. They just want it to work so they don't smoke.
I may have mentioned hundreds of pages ago that I wouldn't recommend the iStick to noobs or "plug & puffers"; too confusing for many of the former; to involved/fiddly for most of the latter.
All this being said, here are my thoughts on solving most iStick issues...
If you purchased your iStick from a B&M and are having issues, take it back and ask them to help you. Take your atomizer(s) with you. That's why you paid $50 instead of $30.
If you are having charging issues, vape the iStick until it won't vape anymore, power it off (5 clicks of the fire button within two seconds) and plug it in for a few hours. A large battery symbol with obvious segmented bars should appear while charging and disappear when completely charged. If it still won't take a charge, contact your reseller and ask for an RMA (replacement).
If your iStick burns everything you put on it, no matter the resistance, single coil, dual coil, BVC or RBA, contact your reseller and ask for an RMA.
Always start at the lowest setting on the iStick for whatever your atomizer's resistance allows and work your way up slowly until you find the flavor, vapor and temperature you like.
Whenever you replace your clearomizer head or rebuild your head or RTA, prime the coil(s) & wick(s) well before you fill and close the atomizer. Take a couple of primer puffs (i.e. not firing the iStick) and look for bubbles floating to the top. Let it sit for at least five minutes. Start vaping at the lowest setting the iStick will allow and very slowly bump the watts/volts up until you reach nirvana. If you obtain a bad burnt hit on a new coil within the first few puffs, the head/coil/wick is probably ruined. Everything will probably taste nasty until you replace the clearomizer head or RBA wick and start over.
If your first few puffs are great and then you get a dry hit, try closing down the air flow a bit if you have air-flow control and give the atomizer a couple of primer puffs. If you see no air bubble(s) rise after your primer puffs, the atomizer may be vapor locked, preventing the juice from feeding properly. Crack open your atomizer, let the pressure equalize, close 'er up and try a couple more primer puffs looking for the air bubbles.
There is a big difference between a dry hit and a burnt hit. The former is just a loss of most flavor/vapor with maybe a slight metallic taste. The latter, well, just tastes burnt.
If none of your atomizers will fire or you're having a highly erratic vaping experience, try gently lifting the 510 center pin on the iStick (it's explained many times in this thread). You may want to consider always using the included 510 to EGO adapter that came with your iStick, an airflow control adapter or the new iStick bending adapter. These solutions are all over this thread. It is also possible that the 510 connection was never soldered correctly, as KTMRider can attest to. He's also the resident mod medic should your iStick need surgery.
If your iStick's 510 threads are loose, sloppy, finicky, wearing or you simply want to prevent any issues and avoid dealing with us, consider using one of the above adapters.
If you're experiencing the occasional phantom misfire, we haven't really determined the cause. It may be a problem with the mechanical switches. A few have reported it getting worse the longer they have their iStick.
If you're simply not satisfied with the vaping experience with your particular atomizer(s), consider purchasing a new atomizer that utilizes Aspire's BVC heads (bottom-vertical coils), preferably with spring-loaded 510 posts (work much better with the iStick's 510 threads/connection). These include the Aspire Nautilus, Nautilus Mini, Beyond Vape's Silo and Silo Lite. Others may exist. Adjustable airflow will also enhance your vaping experience and allow you to dial in your best vape. Try to get a hold of 1.8Ω or higher heads (1.8Ω is the highest currently available for the Nautiluses). The Silo Lite is only $15 direct from Beyond Vape (takes Aspire BVC heads not the Nautilus heads). These options will be the best for "plug & puffers". Katdarling LOVES her Naughty Minis.
Some on this thread are having great results with Kanger's stock single & dual-coil heads. I believe the general advice has been to stay with 2.0Ω or higher heads. Katya is the resident stock Kanger expert and swears by them
Another option is rebuilding the heads in your current atomizer (especially the single and dual-coil Kangers) or moving to an RTA/RDA.
I have a few different atomizers working on my iStick (I have not personally tried any manufacturer's stock heads):
EVODv1 & EVODGlass with 1.4Ω, 28g rebuilt BVC/Rayon heads working very good from 3-3.7 Eleaf Volts (a displayed 6.4-10 watts).
EVODv1 with a 1.7Ω, 30g rebuilt horizontal coil/Rayon working very good from 3-3.6 Eleaf volts (5.2-8 watts displayed).
2 Protank2s w/Airflow Control Bases with 1.7Ω, 28g rebuilt BVC/rayon heads vaping great from 3-4.3 Eleaf Volts (5.2-11 watts displayed).
2 Kayfun Lite Clones (one Dream Tank, one +v2) and an Erlkonigin clone; all with twisted 30g builds around 1.5Ω wicked with Rayon. They vape brilliantly to 5.5 Eleaf Volts/20 watts displayed. (I highly recommend the Erlkonigin. Best 20 vaping bucks I've spent.)
1 IGO L with a twisted 28, 1.5Ω/Rayon build; vaping great to 5.5 Eleaf Volts/20 watts displayed.
I can't believe this little $30 device is causing so much angst and over 6200 posts!
I think my insomnia has disappeared. Good night, all!
First of all, if you have an iStick that is performing the way Eleaf intended (mean voltage and all) you CAN obtain an amazing vape. Many on this thread will attest to it. Keep the faith and ask questions. Most of us don't bite.
The problems we've seen in the thread range from the well-known mean vs rms voltage issue, poor workmanship/materials (510 connection), apparent poor quality control (poor regulation?) and a large chunk of its target demographics. The last point being that the iStick should be perfect for new vapers and vapers who don't care and don't want to know how all this works. They just want it to work so they don't smoke.
I may have mentioned hundreds of pages ago that I wouldn't recommend the iStick to noobs or "plug & puffers"; too confusing for many of the former; to involved/fiddly for most of the latter.
All this being said, here are my thoughts on solving most iStick issues...
If you purchased your iStick from a B&M and are having issues, take it back and ask them to help you. Take your atomizer(s) with you. That's why you paid $50 instead of $30.
If you are having charging issues, vape the iStick until it won't vape anymore, power it off (5 clicks of the fire button within two seconds) and plug it in for a few hours. A large battery symbol with obvious segmented bars should appear while charging and disappear when completely charged. If it still won't take a charge, contact your reseller and ask for an RMA (replacement).
If your iStick burns everything you put on it, no matter the resistance, single coil, dual coil, BVC or RBA, contact your reseller and ask for an RMA.
Always start at the lowest setting on the iStick for whatever your atomizer's resistance allows and work your way up slowly until you find the flavor, vapor and temperature you like.
Whenever you replace your clearomizer head or rebuild your head or RTA, prime the coil(s) & wick(s) well before you fill and close the atomizer. Take a couple of primer puffs (i.e. not firing the iStick) and look for bubbles floating to the top. Let it sit for at least five minutes. Start vaping at the lowest setting the iStick will allow and very slowly bump the watts/volts up until you reach nirvana. If you obtain a bad burnt hit on a new coil within the first few puffs, the head/coil/wick is probably ruined. Everything will probably taste nasty until you replace the clearomizer head or RBA wick and start over.
If your first few puffs are great and then you get a dry hit, try closing down the air flow a bit if you have air-flow control and give the atomizer a couple of primer puffs. If you see no air bubble(s) rise after your primer puffs, the atomizer may be vapor locked, preventing the juice from feeding properly. Crack open your atomizer, let the pressure equalize, close 'er up and try a couple more primer puffs looking for the air bubbles.
There is a big difference between a dry hit and a burnt hit. The former is just a loss of most flavor/vapor with maybe a slight metallic taste. The latter, well, just tastes burnt.
If none of your atomizers will fire or you're having a highly erratic vaping experience, try gently lifting the 510 center pin on the iStick (it's explained many times in this thread). You may want to consider always using the included 510 to EGO adapter that came with your iStick, an airflow control adapter or the new iStick bending adapter. These solutions are all over this thread. It is also possible that the 510 connection was never soldered correctly, as KTMRider can attest to. He's also the resident mod medic should your iStick need surgery.
If your iStick's 510 threads are loose, sloppy, finicky, wearing or you simply want to prevent any issues and avoid dealing with us, consider using one of the above adapters.
If you're experiencing the occasional phantom misfire, we haven't really determined the cause. It may be a problem with the mechanical switches. A few have reported it getting worse the longer they have their iStick.
If you're simply not satisfied with the vaping experience with your particular atomizer(s), consider purchasing a new atomizer that utilizes Aspire's BVC heads (bottom-vertical coils), preferably with spring-loaded 510 posts (work much better with the iStick's 510 threads/connection). These include the Aspire Nautilus, Nautilus Mini, Beyond Vape's Silo and Silo Lite. Others may exist. Adjustable airflow will also enhance your vaping experience and allow you to dial in your best vape. Try to get a hold of 1.8Ω or higher heads (1.8Ω is the highest currently available for the Nautiluses). The Silo Lite is only $15 direct from Beyond Vape (takes Aspire BVC heads not the Nautilus heads). These options will be the best for "plug & puffers". Katdarling LOVES her Naughty Minis.
Some on this thread are having great results with Kanger's stock single & dual-coil heads. I believe the general advice has been to stay with 2.0Ω or higher heads. Katya is the resident stock Kanger expert and swears by them
Another option is rebuilding the heads in your current atomizer (especially the single and dual-coil Kangers) or moving to an RTA/RDA.
I have a few different atomizers working on my iStick (I have not personally tried any manufacturer's stock heads):
EVODv1 & EVODGlass with 1.4Ω, 28g rebuilt BVC/Rayon heads working very good from 3-3.7 Eleaf Volts (a displayed 6.4-10 watts).
EVODv1 with a 1.7Ω, 30g rebuilt horizontal coil/Rayon working very good from 3-3.6 Eleaf volts (5.2-8 watts displayed).
2 Protank2s w/Airflow Control Bases with 1.7Ω, 28g rebuilt BVC/rayon heads vaping great from 3-4.3 Eleaf Volts (5.2-11 watts displayed).
2 Kayfun Lite Clones (one Dream Tank, one +v2) and an Erlkonigin clone; all with twisted 30g builds around 1.5Ω wicked with Rayon. They vape brilliantly to 5.5 Eleaf Volts/20 watts displayed. (I highly recommend the Erlkonigin. Best 20 vaping bucks I've spent.)
1 IGO L with a twisted 28, 1.5Ω/Rayon build; vaping great to 5.5 Eleaf Volts/20 watts displayed.
I can't believe this little $30 device is causing so much angst and over 6200 posts!
I think my insomnia has disappeared. Good night, all!
Me either. But the first half was how long it took to get here and who sent it, another 2 thirds is about the nautilus heads,...... the rest is , well.....like you said.
Larry~ Your guess is as good as mine but if you EVER see them in white let me know.
Best Regards, Lex!
Sent from a BIG phone.....Galaxy Note 3
I still can't fng believe he typed all of that..... Still laughing!!!!
I want it on a t-shirt!
Yes, I started with the Naughty Mini... loved the performance of the bvc's, hated the form factor and ever present metallic taste of the Naughty. Sold It.
Picked up a CE5, K1, and Mini Vivi (all BVC). I have never had any issues with any of them on my Stick. All of them perform every bit as great as the Nautilus (with a more restrictive air flow, of course).
Of the three, the K1 looks the best (stand alone) but I like the aesthetics and form factor of the Mini Vivi best on the Istick. It just looks very balanced and proportional.
Vaping on that setup now as I type this
Sidebar; I hear that the full size Vivi sometimes has issues with the base getting stuck on the tank.
The ONE tank I've tried on the 'Stick so far that has not fired, sadly is the Vivi Nova Mini. All is not lost. It may be a bad pin on the coil, or vice versa. It does however fire on the Provi. Hmmmm.
alden, great post and MEEEOWWW, the Katya and I got honorable mentions! Thank you!
First of all, if you have an iStick that is performing the way Eleaf intended (mean voltage and all) you CAN obtain an amazing vape. Many on this thread will attest to it. Keep the faith and ask questions. Most of us don't bite.
Probably the most important part...........................
Probably the most important part...........................
alden, great post and MEEEOWWW, the Katya and I got honorable mentions! Thank you!
Why do you think I want it on a t-shirt?
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