Eleaf Istick

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four2109

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My 30W istick that I ordered from evape.us last week arrived today - and it's the original istick.


&*#@##&*

Yikes! I know that feeling. My much anticipated Egrip from VapeNW showed up as an istick! They made it right, but I had the razor blade to the package when I saw the image....:ohmy::grr:
 

aldenf

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I heard that the 50 will have an RMS and DC output with 2 batteries in series that would make it 8.4v with an output of 2-10v. It will basically be operating on battery voltage and having to boost very little to gain max voltage, making it much more efficient.

That's the first I've of heard of this. It would mean needing two 4400mAh 3.7V batteries. I find it hard to believe that they can fit two such batteries in that enclosure. They could have custom batteries made for it. But that would be very cost prohibitive, particularly at the 50W's price point. I think it'll be two 2200mAh batteries in parallel.

If the 50W iStick utilizes a 4400mAh 7.4V LiPo, for $50, sign me up for two! The battery life would be epic...
 

USMCotaku

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I do rebuild my Kanger heads with vertical coils. They perform much better regarding flavor and vapor production. It's the same difference as between Aspire's BDCs & BVCs. If I could fit a 3mm horizontal coil in the "old style" Kanger heads and fit the wicking material AND get e-liquid to the wick fast enough... In fact that is the last project for today. I'll let you know how I make out.

As for BVCs in the OCC head, let me start by saying I don't own a SubTank yet and these are just educated guesses. Firstly, BVCs require significantly more power to perform well. My Kanger BVCs require 2-3 more watts to match the performance of a good horizontal build and a total of 15W to really spread their wings. But they're still not as good as my RTAs. My goal is to achieve the best vape under 20W. I've been vaping my Kayfun @ 23W for 4+ hours on my 30W iStick and the battery indicator tells me I will have a dead battery long before I go to bed. Yet I can vape at 15W all day long with battery life to spare. My goal is to find the most efficient build with acceptable performance. It is partially a study in thermal dynamics, which is not my specialty.

The OCC head is massive and will require an equally massive coil to avoid wicking issues. Regardless, I think that wicking will be the biggest hassle for BVCs in the OCC head. If I can easily build and wick a horizontal coil with great performance at 15 - 20W and save myself the trouble of wicking a BVC, and get through the entire day on one battery/charge, that is what I'll do.


Another factor to your battery life... One with more impact then what wattage you are running, is what ohm you are built to. The lower the ohm, the higher the amp draw, the faster your battery drains. A 1.2 ohm at 20 watts will last quite a bit longer then a .5 ohm at 20 watt even though it takes less voltage to reach the 20 watts, the amp drain is quite a bit more.
Also, the sub tank works well at 20 watts, and one of the main reasons to rebuild a kanger dual coil head bvc style is to increase air flow...... Which these occ heads do not need
 

Bikenstein

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That's the first I've of heard of this. It would mean needing two 4400mAh 3.7V batteries. I find it hard to believe that they can fit two such batteries in that enclosure. They could have custom batteries made for it. But that would be very cost prohibitive, particularly at the 50W's price point. I think it'll be two 2200mAh batteries in parallel.

If the 50W iStick utilizes a 4400mAh 7.4V LiPo, for $50, sign me up for two! The battery life would be epic...
That is a good point if they are to be 4400mAh. What I hear is considered hearsay until I have one in my hand. This was from the same source that told me the 30 would have a different flatter output than the 20. I think something was lost in the translation but it seems there will be a difference in the 50's output over the 30 than just the higher wattage and longer battery life. Again we will just have to wait and see. Regardless I already signed up for 2 :)
 

Major911

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That's the first I've of heard of this. It would mean needing two 4400mAh 3.7V batteries. I find it hard to believe that they can fit two such batteries in that enclosure. They could have custom batteries made for it. But that would be very cost prohibitive, particularly at the 50W's price point. I think it'll be two 2200mAh batteries in parallel.

If the 50W iStick utilizes a 4400mAh 7.4V LiPo, for $50, sign me up for two! The battery life would be epic...

That's correct. Since the largest capacity lipo battery is 3800mah. They are using (2) 2200 mah's in parallel to achieve the 4400mah. Battery life should still be amazing unless your running it at 50 watts continuously.
 

aldenf

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Another factor to your battery life... One with more impact then what wattage you are running, is what ohm you are built to. The lower the ohm, the higher the amp draw, the faster your battery drains. A 1.2 ohm at 20 watts will last quite a bit longer then a .5 ohm at 20 watt even though it takes less voltage to reach the 20 watts, the amp drain is quite a bit more.
Also, the sub tank works well at 20 watts, and one of the main reasons to rebuild a kanger dual coil head bvc style is to increase air flow...... Which these occ heads do not need


While this is absolutely true for mechanicals, amp draw off the battery is determined differently for regulated devices. It's purely a watts-in-watts-out formula and completely independent of coil resistance:

[Watts dissipated at the coil + loss of efficiency] / current battery voltage = battery amp draw

So, a 30W iStick, with a 90% efficient chipset, running @ 20W with a current battery charge of 3.7V would provide:

[20+2] / 3.7 = 5.95A


Steam Engine's battery drain tab illustrates this beautifully without having to know any of the math. If you play with this, make sure you select "regulated" under "device type".

Battery drain | Steam Engine | free vaping calculators
 
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USMCotaku

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While this is absolutely true for mechanicals, amp draw off the battery is determined differently for regulated devices. It's purely a watts-in-watts-out formula and completely independent of coil resistance:

[Watts dissipated at the coil + loss of efficiency] / current battery voltage = battery amp draw

So, a 30W iStick, with a 90% efficient chipset, running @ 20W with a current battery charge of 3.7V would provide:

[20+2] / 3.7 = 5.95A


Steam Engine's battery drain tab illustrates this beautifully without having to know any of the math. If you play with this, make sure you select "regulated" under "device type".

Battery drain | Steam Engine | free vaping calculators



On my zna50, coil resistance still makes a significant difference in battery life

Edit: Regardless of mech vs. Regulated, coil resistance is still going to alter the amp draw, how could it not? 20 watts at 5 volts can't draw the same amperage as 20 watts at 3.8 volts
 
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aldenf

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USMCotaku

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Well I have noticed that effect on my istick....1 ohm vs 2 ohm, no real difference in battery life. But that doesn't hold true on my ZNA50, nor my dna30. Sub ohming on those does make my battery drain faster. So, though sound in theory, some may experience differently depending on their equipment. Can't speak on the istick 30 watt since I don't have one. Personally I don't mind the faster battery draw on my zna. I prefer the vape quality around .7-.8, so I just carry extra batteries :p
Sent with one hand, the other is busy vaping.
 

scaredmice

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The power yield, or efficiency of the DC-DC conversion is slightly dependant on the final current (or voltage) applied to the atomizer. It might have to do with the differences that every user have noticed, if we are speaking of extreme cases (like putting 20 W but in one case at 0,5 ohm and in the other at 2,0 ohm).

Even today, with the major vogue on sub-ohming, even if you're using a regulated device, which doesn't need, strictly speaking, the low resistance, as it provides voltage if it is necessary, DC-DC converters have better efficiencies at the high resistance extreme, as they dissipate less internal heat and are better suited for that.

What's more, the battery boundaries still apply, if you compare a 18350 with a 18650 or even a LiPo pack. The converter could enter in trouble with low resistances, even if theoretically the battery draw is the same, because it is near the limits of the battery and it fades off its voltage below the limits for the converter. That's why my Sigelei Legend cannot fire below 1 ohm using 18350, but it runs effortlessly atomizers in the 0,6 - 0,9 ohm range with a high amp 18650 or two 18350 in serial, even if in all cases I'm just in its upper power limit of 15 W (and it is advertised as a 1,0 ohm minimum resistance mod).
 

Katdarling

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I probably won't worry about getting a 30w until my three 20w's starts dying off. But I couldn't resist the mini istick, received 4 of them yesterday (one of each color), and they are not kidding when they say "mini"! They are adorable, and make my 20w isticks look absolutely huge. Since small size is more important to me than high wattage, the mini is my new favorite device.

I'm glad to hear people are liking the 30w, I do want it eventually because I really like the new top cap with the raised lip, and the fact that the pin is spring loaded. But with a total of 7 isticks between my 20's & minis, I think I am done buying for awhile. (much to my husbands relief)

An Amy after my own heart! (Welp, minus that husband thingie.)



My iStick just died.. I had it for just 2 months, vaping it only around 2 days a week since I prefer my unregulated box mods.
It just would not start anymore, dead as a stone :(


My true sympathies, Greenhill. I do hope yours is now firing happily in the big iStick sky... with mine.



The production line worker in charge of thread quality control on 20w was apparently transferred to button rattle qc on 30w. Only had one job and...

:facepalm: and :lol: (try doing THAT at the same time)



My 30W istick that I ordered from evape.us last week arrived today - and it's the original istick.


&*#@##&*


Ummm....... WHAT???? Oh spartan!


I will make the wreckless statement (not knowing much about Eleaf tanks) that this is just another e-cig company pumping out new tanks for the purposes of having a new tanks.

Like Kanger with their Protank and Aerotank. Then they release the genitank, which is basically an aerotank without stainless steel for $10 less. Completely pointless IMO.

The next generation appears to be the rebuildable/premade coil hybrid tanks. I've long lost track of anything that's been going on lately. Perhaps if they could keep the release gaps from 6 months to a year it would be possible to follow. It just feels like a new tank is being released every 3 weeks.

/end rant.


Need a spreadsheet? (oh puleeze say NO!)


Lmao@shack22.


Me as well. Daily. Several times a day. Gotta luv da shack!
 

shack22

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Me as well. Daily. Several times a day. Gotta luv da shack!

Katdarling-- could you please explain posts 9572 through 9576 --in terms a "Canadian"(or Kalifornia girl) would understand? We still press the buttons to vape--right?
Kidding--good info aldenf, USMCotaku, scaredmice--thanks

canadian-snow-humoure2808f_028.jpg

:unsure: Also...
"Question of the day:
As of 2015, Canada does not have a designated national bird. The US has their Eagle, England her Robin and France has it's Rooster and we should have....

The Pileated Woodpecker
The Snowy Owl
The Red-tailed Hawk
The Bracebridge Wolperdinger
The Great Blue Heron
The Common Loon
Other "

This is the most important decision facing our nation in many years --we would appreciate input from all you that have already made this choice. It is tearing us apart!

Of course I voted for the majestic Common Loon
i_.jpg
 
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aldenf

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The power yield, or efficiency of the DC-DC conversion is slightly dependant on the final current (or voltage) applied to the atomizer. It might have to do with the differences that every user have noticed, if we are speaking of extreme cases (like putting 20 W but in one case at 0,5 ohm and in the other at 2,0 ohm).

Even today, with the major vogue on sub-ohming, even if you're using a regulated device, which doesn't need, strictly speaking, the low resistance, as it provides voltage if it is necessary, DC-DC converters have better efficiencies at the high resistance extreme, as they dissipate less internal heat and are better suited for that.

What's more, the battery boundaries still apply, if you compare a 18350 with a 18650 or even a LiPo pack. The converter could enter in trouble with low resistances, even if theoretically the battery draw is the same, because it is near the limits of the battery and it fades off its voltage below the limits for the converter. That's why my Sigelei Legend cannot fire below 1 ohm using 18350, but it runs effortlessly atomizers in the 0,6 - 0,9 ohm range with a high amp 18650 or two 18350 in serial, even if in all cases I'm just in its upper power limit of 15 W (and it is advertised as a 1,0 ohm minimum resistance mod).

I think you make a good point. Just like a computer's power supply, our regulated devices vary in efficiency throughout their operating range. So if a DNA chipset is rated at 92% efficiency, that's an overall average not a hard figure. This is one of the reasons why manufacturers seem to over-spec battery requirements. It's always been my understanding that bucking chipsets are more efficient on the supply than those that boost. I can't recall ever seeing a white paper on buck/boost chipsets, however. I suppose, for the purpose of this discussion, the design of the circuitry and quality of components used has more effect on battery life than overall electrical theory. I can't imagine that the chipset in a $35 mod uses the same quality of components or is as well designed as the chipset that sells alone for $60+.

All this being said, if we abandon general electrical principals to establish safety limits in our APVs (ie. max battery current draw), each chipset manufactured would have to be thoroughly tested for safety limits and efficiencies. As it stands now, all but the most expensive chipsets are probably spec'd according to numbers created by electrical CAD software and never thoroughly tested.
 

aldenf

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Katdarling-- could you please explain posts 9572 through 9576 --in terms a "Canadian"(or Kalifornia girl) would understand? We still press the buttons to vape--right?
Kidding--good info aldenf, USMCotaku, scaredmice--thanks

View attachment 404879

:unsure: Also...
"Question of the day:
As of 2015, Canada does not have a designated national bird. The US has their Eagle, England her Robin and France has it's Rooster and we should have....

The Pileated Woodpecker
The Snowy Owl
The Red-tailed Hawk
The Bracebridge Wolperdinger
The Great Blue Heron
The Common Loon
Other "

This is the most important decision facing our nation in many years --we would appreciate input from all you that have already made this choice. It is tearing us apart!

Of course I voted for the majestic Common Loon
View attachment 404886

I'm happy to hear things are slow in Canada. If you stopped sending your birds south for half of the year, you might be able to choose more easily. Heaven forbid the Canada Goose be on that list as it's named after the country... A pecker, of the wood variety or not, seems a rather immature choice. Loons are already far too common and cherished in the northern territories and need no further aggrandization. The Wolperdinger seems rather fitting for the Canuck's national bird. Can't think of a better symbol for our northern neighbors. :lol:

Most Americans would probably suggest either the Snowy Owl or Red-tailed Hawk. The Blue Heron is also a majestic creature that has kept me company for the last three summers. At least you have a reasonable list to choose from.


ETA: Yes! Utilizing your fingers, you still press the darned buttons to vape. Well, until the new Google GlassVape is released; then we'll just have to blink to adjust and fire our mods.
 
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