Eleaf Istick

[inspects]

Anyone else noticing that their 30w is less powerful than their 20w at supposedly equivalent voltages?

I haven't, but get more battery life...they seem to be identical except for the new top design to fit larger tanks, along with other improvements - upgrades, this vaping is going to the next levels at astonishing rates.

Have no complaints with any of the products I received. I hope nobody else has any problems.

Hopefully i can get this straightened out.

 

[jefsview]

I haven't, but get more battery life...they seem to be identical except for the new top design to fit larger tanks, along with other improvements - upgrades, this vaping is going to the next levels at astonishing rates.

Have no complaints with any of the products I received. I hope nobody else has any problems.

Hopefully i can get this straightened out.

That is because it is properly set to RMS and not MEAN for output like the original 20W. It is not less powerful, it just is smoothed out. Just bump up your volts/watts by taste and you'll be fine.

 

[jefsview]

Sorry, I guess I was replying to what you quoted, inspects, and not what you wrote. Sorry. I'lm running on very little sleep.

 

[Katya]

That is because it is properly set to RMS and not MEAN for output like the original 20W. It is not less powerful, it just is smoothed out. Just bump up your volts/watts by taste and you'll be fine.

Has this been established yet? For sure?

 

[DrewGrimey]

Has this been established yet? For sure?

yes... Pretty sure it's going to be like the IPV mini in pwm mode

 

[aznnp77]

I've been waiting for pbusardo to get a review up, but his recent reviews were for the cloupor mini and the ipv mini. Both similar devices to the iStick. He's not the end all be all, but he's very thorough, and his charts that sometimes bore people will be extremely interesting to see this time.

I just want to know if I'm crazy or not.

 

[Stosh]

That is because it is properly set to RMS and not MEAN for output like the original 20W. It is not less powerful, it just is smoothed out. Just bump up your volts/watts by taste and you'll be fine.

RMS and Mean are two different ways of describing a waveform dependent on its amplitude and duty cycle, nothing is smoothed out. If the signal is smoothed out (aka MVP & Provari) RMS & Mean no longer apply.

 

[ThunderDan]

I've been waiting for pbusardo to get a review up, but his recent reviews were for the cloupor mini and the ipv mini. Both similar devices to the iStick. He's not the end all be all, but he's very thorough, and his charts that sometimes bore people will be extremely interesting to see this time.

I just want to know if I'm crazy or not.

Meh, his IPV mini review was lacking the one major con I have found with mine, I noticed his did it too, and yet he didn't mention it, the resistance read by the mini is off. You can see his device do it when he has the subtank nano on it up close its reading the coil at .4 ohm.

Which surprised me because I know how much he likes hating on the IPV series.

Sent from my Nexus 6 using Tapatalk

 

[raitizz]

Sorry, quick question about the new iStick 30w. Buddy of mine got his, but we can't screw the atty fully on. Gap stays. Only few threads catch. As the pin of the atty, a Naughty Mini, has a longer pin, we get connection. Suggestions? Screw it in with oil and firce or send back for replacement?
Thanks.

R

*via Tapatalk

 

[Bikenstein]

Sorry, quick question about the new iStick 30w. Buddy of mine got his, but we can't screw the atty fully on. Gap stays. Only few threads catch. As the pin of the atty, a Naughty Mini, has a longer pin, we get connection. Suggestions? Screw it in with oil and firce or send back for replacement?
Thanks.

R

*via Tapatalk

I would put it in an 8" vise and try a pipe wrench Or get a replacement (whichever sounds best). The threads on the atty may be bad. Try another one on it. If the atty screws on other mods fine, then their may be a problem with the 30. In that case you might could do lubrication and work the atty or another atty back and forth gently to sorta "tap" the threads out. If that doesn't work. I'd get a replacement.

 

[raitizz]

I would put it in an 8" vise and try a pipe wrench Or get a replacement (whichever sounds best). The threads on the atty may be bad. Try another one on it. If the atty screws on other mods fine, then their may be a problem with the 30. In that case you might could do lubrication and work the atty or another atty back and forth gently to sorta "tap" the threads out. If that doesn't work. I'd get a replacement.

Thanks. The atty is fine, works on other mod. Another atty gaps too. Replacement means at least two weeks without a battery... damn.

R

 

[Barryo]

Sorry, quick question about the new iStick 30w. Buddy of mine got his, but we can't screw the atty fully on. Gap stays. Only few threads catch. As the pin of the atty, a Naughty Mini, has a longer pin, we get connection. Suggestions? Screw it in with oil and firce or send back for replacement?
Thanks.

R

*via Tapatalk

I ordered 4 iStick 30 W's and they arrived a couple days ago. Three were fine but had a problem with the silver one. My Nautilus and Ehpro Kayfun tanks would only screw-on about half way. I emailed the vendor and he told me to send the faulty iStick back and he would issue a refund or replace when they get their next shipment.

 

[aznnp77]

aznnp, this may help. (hope you don't mind, alden.)


http://www.e-cigarette-forum.com/fo...tick-50w-coming-jan-25th-12.html#post15039009

wait.... this is not working ..... yet. Yay!

Thanks, that is actually one of the posts I'm referring to. Based on his chart, the istick 30w fires .4 above the display reading. 25% he approximately estimates. That's why I find it funny that I think my iStick 30w is UNDER powered. We're all using the same iSticks here.

 

[jerseyman32]

I got a chance to check out a 30 watt at my b&m. It didnt seem to be lighter in weight to the 20 watt and as stated in earlier posts the shaky button is annoying ( any fixes) besides that it fired great at .5 , didnt fire too hot at all. I liked it.

 

[aldenf]

I've been waiting for pbusardo to get a review up, but his recent reviews were for the cloupor mini and the ipv mini. Both similar devices to the iStick. He's not the end all be all, but he's very thorough, and his charts that sometimes bore people will be extremely interesting to see this time.

I just want to know if I'm crazy or not.

Mr. Busardo is probably waiting to do a combined 30W/50W review. The technology between the two is probably very similar.

What you will see is simple, at least for the 30watter. Below 3V, PWM with a peak voltage of 5V and average (mean) tuning powers the device. This is silly as a setting of 2.9V dissipates more watts at the coil than a 3V setting. From 3-3.9V, light filtering is employed, creating a dirty but flat signal that gets cleaner the closer it gets to 4V. While tuned to RMS, at 3V, the dirty signal fires the resistance load (coil) approximately 10% hotter than the setting calls for. It gets far more accurate, the closer it gets to 4V. From 4V to 8V, the output is a flat, very accurate DC signal. It's resolution of adjustability is still limited to 0.1V. (Meaning a wattage setting calling for a 100th variation [ie. 4.55V] simply rounds to the nearest tenth.) The output is definitely not adjustable by tenths of Watts but closer to half a Watt, depending on the resistance of the atomizer.

See the post containing thoughts and oscilloscope traces here:

http://www.e-cigarette-forum.com/fo...tick-50w-coming-jan-25th-12.html#post15039009

The iStick 20W runs very noticeably hot until it gets to around 5V output, where things start to even out. Depending on the battery level, the 20watter is a 3.8V or 4.1V to 5.5V device.

The takeaway? The iStick 30W is a far superior low-wattage APV. It is a great vape from 3.3V to 8V; simply adjust to taste. With the same output, it's battery life matches that of the 20watter, if not somewhat better. At approximately 25W, the 30watter is a 6-8 hour device if vaped somewhat heavily. I expect the iStick 50W to show similar results within its own specifications. If we expect premium quality and regulation, we should be prepared to pay a premium price. In vaping, as in the rest of life, there is rarely a free lunch.

Six months ago, a 1300mAh twist/spinner EGO cost us $20-30. We accepted these devices with all their limitations and inaccuracies just to have some adjustability in our vape. Most maxed out around 10W. A very few VW models could hit 15W under very certain circumstances (2.5Ω @ 6V). The battery life at high output was abysmal. The iStick family is an evolution of the twist/spinners, replacing them and the multitudes of 15W devices that flooded the market at up to thrice the price (VAMO, ZMAX, SVD, VTR, etc.). Anyone who vapes below 30W will probably love this in their collection. I don't recommend ANYTHING as an only device. Always have a backup. Purchase two. You'll be well covered.

As inexpensive devices (both APVs and atomizers) immensely improve and before the FDA decides our regulatory future, it is a pretty good time to be a vaper.

 

[aldenf]

Meh, his IPV mini review was lacking the one major con I have found with mine, I noticed his did it too, and yet he didn't mention it, the resistance read by the mini is off. You can see his device do it when he has the subtank nano on it up close its reading the coil at .4 ohm.

Which surprised me because I know how much he likes hating on the IPV series.

Sent from my Nexus 6 using Tapatalk

Agreed. I believe Phil is going easier on the less expensive devices as long as they're close. (See also his Cloupor Mini review.) I'm somewhat surprised he didn't at least mention it. Had it been a review of a $250 device, he would have been all over it. I look forward to his SX Mini review.

A variance of 0.1Ω in either direction is generally tolerable, especially when the iPV Mini fires 0.1Ω lower than its spec. A reading differing from actual resistance will, however, throw off variable wattage calculations. A 0.5Ω coil, measuring 0.4, will only fire at 24W. While not desirable to those vaping 0.5Ω coils and wanting 30W, I have always believed in not running gear at its extremes for many reasons, including inaccuracies and device longevity. Those desiring 30W from a 0.5Ω coil should purchase a 40-50W APV capable of firing to 0.2Ω. We should look for a comfortable cushion in the specifications with what and how we (expect to) vape.

I have four digital multi-meters. Three are in the $30-100 price range. One is a $300 Fluke. In the electrical world, a variance of 0.1 or 0.2Ω is generally insignificant. The lesser meters only read to 1/10th of an ohm. The Fluke reads to 1/100th. The lesser meters sometimes differ by as much as .25Ω from the Fluke. The Fluke is dead-on accurate and gets checked/calibrated yearly on lab equipment. If we expect spot-on accuracy and resolution from our devices' chipsets, we should be ready to pay significantly more than the devices we are currently speaking of and have said devices calibrated on a semi-regular basis.

There is a reason why many of YiHi's and Evolv's chipsets cost what they do. I still would not run these chipsets at the extremes of their specifications.

 

[drysprocket]

I got a chance to check out a 30 watt at my b&m. It seems to be lighter in weight to the 20 watt and as stated in earlier posts the shaky button is annoying ( any fixes) besides that it fired great at .5 , didnt fire too hot at all. I liked it.

on the fix front, any sort of wrap will fix the rattle sound, as long as it hugs the button. Has worked perfectly for me. Or as someone else suggested, maybe a dab of tape. I think the new silicon covers should do the trick too.

 

[Bikenstein]

Agreed. I believe Phil is going easier on the less expensive devices as long as they're close. (See also his Cloupor Mini review.) I'm somewhat surprised he didn't at least mention it. Had it been a review of a $250 device, he would have been all over it. I look forward to his SX Mini review.

A variance of 0.1Ω in either direction is generally tolerable, especially when the iPV Mini fires 0.1Ω lower than its spec. A reading differing from actual resistance will, however, throw off variable wattage calculations. A 0.5Ω coil, measuring 0.4, will only fire at 24W. While not desirable to those vaping 0.5Ω coils and wanting 30W, I have always believed in not running gear at its extremes for many reasons, including inaccuracies and device longevity. Those desiring 30W from a 0.5Ω coil should purchase a 40-50W APV capable of firing to 0.2Ω. We should look for a comfortable cushion in the specifications with what and how we (expect to) vape.

I have four digital multi-meters. Three are in the $30-100 price range. One is a $300 Fluke. In the electrical world, a variance of 0.1 or 0.2Ω is generally insignificant. The lesser meters only read to 1/10th of an ohm. The Fluke reads to 1/100th. The lesser meters sometimes differ by as much as .25Ω from the Fluke. The Fluke is dead-on accurate and gets checked/calibrated yearly on lab equipment. If we expect spot-on accuracy and resolution from our devices' chipsets, we should be ready to pay significantly more than the devices we are currently speaking of and have said devices calibrated on a semi-regular basis.

There is a reason why many of YiHi's and Evolv's chipsets cost what they do. I still would not run these chipsets at the extremes of their specifications.

That's why I've got 2 50's ordered. Though the 30 will sub ohm pretty good up near 30w, I know it's life will be shortened from the added stress. My diesel truck will run over 100 mph but it wouldn't last 100,000 miles at that speed. Good info. and Flukes rule. Cheap meters are still good for home use but I wouldn't waste money on a $10 one.

 

[Bikenstein]

Thanks. The atty is fine, works on other mod. Another atty gaps too. Replacement means at least two weeks without a battery... damn.

R

I probably have a bottom tap that size that would clean the threads right up. With the spring loaded pin it would probably work without damage. But I think you would be safer returnin it. Beg, borrow or st..........buy a cheap ego battery til you get another 30

You might be surprised how well just working an atty back and forth adding a little pressure each time will work. If it gets looser and screws in further keep goin. If it doesn't and still stops at the same place then stop. All it takes is a small chip or debris to cause a problem. But as loose as the threads are on my 30, it may be a case of the threads not being deep enough anyway. Sorry about your problem.

 

[ccwaters]

I got a chance to check out a 30 watt at my b&m. It seems to be lighter in weight to the 20 watt and as stated in earlier posts the shaky button is annoying ( any fixes) besides that it fired great at .5 , didnt fire too hot at all. I liked it.

Button can be fixed, but it will need to be disassembled to do so.

My Istick 20s vary in weight between 89, and 90.43 grams, only have one 30 so far but it weighs 93.45 grams. Pretty close to the same weight, in hand I can't really notice the difference.