It should be mentioned that the screw on the bottom of the Erl is NOT an adjustable screw to make contact with the mod pin. It holds the positive post on the deck and should be tight.
Guess my cotton shoulders moved when I screwed on the cap and thus flooding ensued. Build one failed, will try another later, I got a mess to clean up...
Got my $20 clone in from FT, cleaned it and threw a 1.4 ohm build with rayon on it. It wont fire on my Provari nor my istick unless I use an ego/510 adapter. The screw that makes the connection sits a little to high in the atty, which is about my luck. I guess Ill break down and order a few of the circuit board spacers from madvapes and see if that will do the trick since I cant stand the way it looks with the adapter and cone to cover it up. I also tried to loosen the screw a touch and still couldnt get it to fire.
As far as performance I would say that the vapor so far is a little less than Im getting on my Ehpro KF clone and the flavor is probably a touch better. I will also say that the airflow is ALOT more than a KF and thats with the AFC ring almost all the way closed compared to the two holes in my KF.
Well, trying a build on my Erlkonigin clone BUT getting strange ohm readings on my merer vs hana mod - on the Hana mod its 1.6 ohms on ohm meter its 2.0-2.2 ohms - tested my meter with my Russian 2.0 and that reads fine so not sure what is up. HELP!!!
I got an Erlkonigin clone off ebay, don't know the manufacturer. It has the black plastic threaded drip tip, comes in a black box that says YZP .
Deck threads are stripped, plastic tube has creases, total piece of crap.
It should be mentioned that the screw on the bottom of the Erl is NOT an adjustable screw to make contact with the mod pin. It holds the positive post on the deck and should be tight.
I got an Erlkonigin clone off ebay, don't know the manufacturer. It has the black plastic threaded drip tip, comes in a black box that says YZP .
Deck threads are stripped, plastic tube has creases, total piece of crap.
Is the Erlkonigin really this touchy with wicking? For example mine flooded ALL my juice out the airflow control over time, just wouldn’t stop... Was quite the experience.
All I could do is still and watch.![]()
Is the Erlkonigin really this touchy with wicking? For example mine flooded ALL my juice out the airflow control over time, just wouldn’t stop... Was quite the experience.
All I could do is still and watch.![]()
Just got my clone as well, put my first build in, and got massive flooding as well. But that was my fault, I didn't think this thing would wick as well as it does. I was feeling brave and wanted to try it with really thick VG juice and left the flow control ring off (since the prinz doesn't even have one), instantly started pouring down the chamber. I thought I had big enough shoulders to prevent flooding but I guess not
Overall, impressed with the quality of the clone. Same silver box one. Mine has no burrs or rough spots anywhere. Chimney threads are perfect. O-Rings at top fill hole are still too small and fall out. Drip Tip doesn't tighten down far enough to prevent the top cap cover from moving, but at least makes it a little tighter.
Gonna try a second build tonight with the flow ring this time and even thicker shoulders, and hopefully I get good wicking with no flooding![]()
Hmmmm.
Millah, maybe file a little off the bottom of your drip tip? Would that solve it?
As with most RTAs, tank pressure/vacuum is important, just curious if that top cover is still slightly too loose and causing you issues.
Sent from Tapatalk.
I'm finding I need more cotton/wicking stuff than I use in my Kayfun types... My second build was way better than my first but when adjusting my draw tighter I ended up breaking the vacuum and leak city. Luckily it wasn’t filled very much.