Evolv DNA 75
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No one here is an "expert in electronics", but the DNA200 and onwards are considered to be the most accurate chips on the market, if not the benchmark. Not sure what you are looking to find with this series of questions?
I worked for Philips and Hitachi as an electronic engineer.
I was thinking you were/are an engineer....there used to be a bunch around these parts but have left or just not posting...
Sorry, I wasn't trying to be argumentative or downplay what a great product Evolv makes, if I came across that way. I was just trying to get across, that to expect any mod to not fluctuate a few hundredth of an ohm may be asking more than any $50 board can offer. I'm not sure exactly how resistance is measured on the dna and maybe it can resolve down to +-0.00X, but even a good calibrated Fluke is only +-0.15 ohms. But then the Fluke isn't designed to read ultra low resistance. I was just curious if Evolv published accuracy specifications.
You can buy micro-ohm meters on eBay for 65 bucks. Yes I know Flukes are expensive. And yes laboratory equipment isn't cheap and some cost more than a new car. But you know the Chinese, they can build it for 5 bucks and sell it for 65 bucks on eBay.
www.ebay.com/itm/White-OLED-Four-wire-Digital-Micro-ohm-Meter-Milliohm-Micro-Ohm-Resistance-Meter-/231977471808
Yep, they could be.... I never go there.... maybe I should???
Oh there are more around here somewhere.Ok. ONE and counting!
I didn't take your posts as argumentative but only seeking info.... As far as I know Evolv has not published much, if any, of their proprietary data or processes. I do know, however that a long process, design, and testing went into their Temp Control patented technology.
This may not answer your question but best I can say as a lay person....
The only specs I know of are published here:
https://downloads.evolvapor.com/dna200.pdf
And certainly some folks post help me topics when they see a 0.01 ohm change, yes, even when switching devices. I try to follow the Evolv guidelines when using Escibe software to get as close as I can to an accurate baseline. But once you get into the world of different Atty materials, wire materials, the entire connection path, at some point you hope you've done enough homework and trouble shooting to just enjoy a good vape.
Now don't take all that the wrong way, I enjoy the process, and in most cases it's no where near that complicated. But as I wrote to you before, in some cases, depending on knowing the person I'm advising, I recommend very simple to use devices, with no computer hookups, or TCR values to worry about.
Before little inexpensive devices like the Pico, if someone wanted to learn what a TCR is, I knew that was the cutoff, and that person wanted to move up to move advanced devices. Now with many new devices including TCR input, many new vapors are curious about those settings. It's both good and bad, some like added complexity, others want to just keep it simple and just want or need a power mode for Kanthal at 15 watts, and as long as they are happy, and avoid smoking, it's all good!
How did you get the subtank to do temp control? Mine refuses to do temp control. I've checked the 510, and the build deck.
What kinda coils were you using?
I only have a Toptank but as far as I can tell they're very similar besides the top-fill.
I never had a problem with TC with the RBA, or actually with 3 different RBA (I got some spares). I use T1, single or twisted. I've never used the pre-made coils though, there's still in the box somewhere.
I have the toptank, I used SS316L. Funny thing is it worked fine for like a week, but now it plain and simple doesn't work.
Ah, so it did work initially. So what happens when you try it now, does the mod see the tank and reads the resistance but it just won't fire, or are you getting the atomizer short or low error perhaps?
Will it fire your SS coils in wattage mode?
It reads the resistance (correctly) and fires it.
On the DNA 200 it just pops out of temp control and continues firing it. I'm using the 316L curve and used the the 304 curve.
The bottom of the RBA has four air holes. Stick something threw it and tighten it like a screw. It screws up to the top deck. If that gets loose, you will have nothing but trouble. And make sure those screws holding the wire down are tight. Sometimes they get loose.
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