Evolv DNA 75
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I use Subtank Nano sometimes and a Top Tank Nano sometimes but only use pre-made coils from Kanger. I don't use the RBA deck. No problems with TC. Posting just to say that in the past (maybe a few years ago?) Kanger had a issue with the RBA deck not making good enough contact with the base it screws into. Thus you can have a good 510 on the device and the 510 of the Top Tank may be good and make a good connection with the device 510 but still have a poor connection where the build deck screws onto the base.
Not saying this is your problem but might be worth checking if you haven't already.... good luck...
In this case it's not expecting too much. It's advertised for accurate temp control and with s minimum resistance in he thousands. If they don't specifically state accuracy to the thousands it's implied by the input and output. Also, other manufacturers devices aren't fluctuating. Maybe they're less accurate because they round up or down and stick with that until atomizer change is greater than .0x or whatever
But the point for me is that given the sample rate and implied if not stated performance . Yes. It needs to be stabilized. And once it reads stably this board k believe is meant to be accurate.
@ all
I do have a question about some battery stuff that doesn't make sense to me on the smy mod.
What constitutes continuous output vs burst. How does the mod calculate the limit of a battery's actual output capability or does it assume a number and then choke off if it's not a healthy / good battery ?
Once it get to temp it drops to 1-8w let's say. So any draw on the battery is well within spec. So any warning should cease to flash ? Or does it flash the entire fire duration regardless of rap time output?
This is why I hate dealing with watts. If I could Just set the output power in temp control to 3.7 or whatever I could easily see what's happening. As it is I guess I have to connect to the computer to see.
As far as I know there isn't a way to make he mod deal With VoLTE and forget watts completely is there ? I'm not sure why watts has become he standard when it's far less informative. Maybe in wrong and I ca. Go to all volt display all the time ? Now there's w love volt display in power mode so maybe there's hope. Decides never should have gone to watts.
Finally. If your battery at its current charge was only capable of outputting 3.7v and you have it set for 5v - what exactly is the DNA chip doing ? It can't make power out of nowhere. So I guess it ignores your setting and pulls whatever it is preconfigured to for safety or if it can sense battery capability whatever is returned there.
If battery capability is being returned with internal resistance checks the. It's not going to be accurate. So I doubt it's that.
Provape uses something they call coil control - I believe dicodes may have an even more user friendly system. If your friends are asking in regards tk tanks taking I remade could have a look at the provari radius tank chart. Maybe hats a good compromise. It needs a little refining and for building your own it's not as precise so far. And it's trial and error for building. But I have been able to find settings that work well for almost every build.
Anyway. I know it's the wrong thread but anyway. For those into vaping who don't want tk time ever numbers and values and all that. The provape system is alphanumeric. I'm vaping i3 with a stainless core kanthal wrapped Clapton coil in a cloud one. Works fine. Stops when it's dry.
May be an option for friends and family less prone to geeking but wanting advanced vaping.
My point was only that just because a device reports X.XX it doesn't mean that it's accurate to a thousandth. It might only be +- 1.0 (not saying that this is the case with the DNA). The number of digits doesn't imply accuracy or precision. This is the case with cheap DMMs. The reason it causes a bit of a knee jerk reaction with me is from reading all the stories of kids building 0.02 coils and saying that they are sure that they are safe because their $5 Harbor Freight DMM told them so. Anyway, I have spent too much of everyone's time with this. I was just trying to be clear.
The mod know the rating of the battery, it'll assume that you use one that can't handle the current draw. More current results in more voltage drop, and lower cdr batteries will have a higher voltage drop. The low battery warning is when the voltage under load drops below a certain limit, and the fact that lower cdr batteries have a higher voltage drop might protect you some.
There's no standard for burst/pulsed discharge ratings and anything but cdr should be ignored.
In order to provide a higher voltage than the current battery voltage more current is drawn to transform to higher output voltage. Similarly, lower voltage than the battery charge means that less amps are drawn. That's why you can't use standard ohms law calculations when calculating the amp draw of vw devices, and why resistance doesn't matter.
Watts are as informative as volts, more relevant when it comes to vaping I'd say.
Sent from my M7_PLUS using Tapatalk
when tracking the current while using the device monitor am i measuring the draw from my battery or the atomizer like the vtc mini does?
btw, i love playing around with escribe so far, the learning curve wasn't as steep as i feared.
btw, i love playing around with escribe so far, the learning curve wasn't as steep as i feared.
I couldn't resist and purchased another smy sdna. i tried, really, i tried to hold back, but something told me i needed to. such a great price too at e cig imo.........
so now i'll have 2 sdna's, an evic vtc mini and a koopor mini. A few liters of my favorite juice and I'm set for the vapopolyspe. i assume ti wire and rayon will always be available.
so now i'll have 2 sdna's, an evic vtc mini and a koopor mini. A few liters of my favorite juice and I'm set for the vapopolyspe. i assume ti wire and rayon will always be available.
My secon
My second SMY SDNA arrived this morning from ecig.com.I love this mod,one SS and one black. I also have a good stash of Nic,RTA'S and various other mods so i am all set as well.
Guys I don't understand the behavior of this chip in power mode. It's ridiculous. Surely there must be something set wrong. If this is designed behavior it makes zero sense.
I set to 15w in power mode (a profile without temp control enabled at all) which runs off the watts wire type.
Battery is down to 35% and it can't hit 15 watts. It just changes power and fires lower
This seems ridiculous. Every regulated mod - the whole point of s regulated mod instead of mechanical is to give consistent power. If the chip is going to register to allow me to run 14-15w on a 1-1.15 ihm build at 35% power then it's truly useless
I set to 15w in power mode (a profile without temp control enabled at all) which runs off the watts wire type.
Battery is down to 35% and it can't hit 15 watts. It just changes power and fires lower
This seems ridiculous. Every regulated mod - the whole point of s regulated mod instead of mechanical is to give consistent power. If the chip is going to register to allow me to run 14-15w on a 1-1.15 ihm build at 35% power then it's truly useless
Have you changed the value for soft cell cut off to higher than 2.75 V?
If you haven't you either have a weak battery or battery connection/wiring issue.
35% on my XTAR VC4 charger is 3.65v. No 18650 that I know can provide much amps at 3.65v resting voltage. Firing at 15 watts, a Samsung 25r would be at about 3.20v.
I really hate battery percentages when used in mods. As some mods are calibrated to read 0% at 2.5v. While others are calibrated to read 0% at 3.70v. Reading 0% at 3.70v is more realistic for mods. I rather see the battery voltage than percentage. As percentage could mean anything. Voltage could only mean one thing.
The point is it's a regulated mod. I have s tin if regulated mods more than capable of putting it consistent power. That's why regulated kids exist. The chips compensate
Right now this chip is icing worse power loss than a mech mod. It doesn't make any sense.
If I put 15 w on ANY regulated mod I own I get 15w until he battery goes flat. What's he point of this if it can't offer regulated power. And jdnrk should not be acting this way then can others confirm this is faulty behavior and maybe we can try to fire out what's wrong ?
You get what I'm shaking right? The point of owning regulated mods is that I can set the power and get that power until the battery is exhausted. Every single regulated mod I own from $15-$250 works this way. Not one of them ......s power as the battery goes down Brussels that defeats the point of using regulated mods.
I have a video processing on YouTube to show what's happening .
I would like to know the resting voltage of the battery. If it is 3.65v or lower, stick it in any mod you like whether it shows 100% or 0% percentage left and it just won't perform. My Smok M65 would be dead at 40% on the battery bar. But the voltage was below 3.70v. And tons of people complained it wouldn't deliver below 40% capacity. Of course not. Running a LED flashlight you really would have 40% of the battery left (and use it down to 2.5v). Firing a mod, the M65 battery is dead at 40%.
You need to check three things...
First, is it a decent battery? If so...not old, dying or damaged?
The second and third... the 75w needs the firmware update to keep it from being over-enthusiastic with its' Low Batt and Weak Batt measurements, and you need to make sure you have a proper .csv in there for whatever battery you're using.
That last one made a night and day difference on my 75s.
What a horrible example to use.
The plating on the contacts and screw wells makes our M65s "auto power reduce" terrors.
Same idiots must have built my Smowell too.
No, no, no. There was two versions of the M65 (well probably 12+ versions). They finally got the last version perfect (used copper connections, etc.), but it was too late. It was known as being horrible and then nobody cared.What a horrible example to use.
The plating on the contacts and screw wells makes our M65s "auto power reduce" terrors.
Same idiots must have built my Smowell too.
See... I didn't know that. "Too late and nobody cared".
The Smowell has the same chip, same settings, same plating... same problem.
Even though it's a dual 18650.
(Feels great though... like a pre-Reuleaux Reuleaux.)
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