Evolv-ing Thread

[SlickWilly]

Yep, I am all too familiar with that rabbit hole........

I think it leads to Canada somewhere.

Look's like they are a perfect fit on the ERM+. You know I went small small with the majority of my mods, those ebay kits, cheap, just so damn handy and nice for the pocket with a stubbed 3ml v1 mizer on top but they will be way to small for a Plus, damn things would fall over just setting there...

Stubbed a few of those little guys, made em even more compact. BTW if anyone wants those little v1's or v2's, just stumbled onto these the other day, $10 & $15 Aromamizer v1 - 3ml by Steam Crave ~ Aromamizer v2 - 3ml by Steam Crave

I was thinking I've got a few of the HotCig DX's stashed that are a little closer to the ERM+. The ERM+ ended up being one hell of a solid mod that holds plenty of battery but boy next to what I'm use to now... yikes! Then again, like you say, they would be great for a desk mod... Sooo may have to put a board back into the one I kept... Anyways, cart before the horse...

BTW, did you end up with enough of the +'s for yourself? After all you had to go through, man I hope so!

 

[BillW50]

Bill, not all atties are created equal, especially for TC, A good solid connection from the board thru the 510 all the way up to the coil is essential. Thats another issue I had with Nickel wire, it wasn't strong enough to get a good tighten on it under the atty screws, with out it breaking Loose atty grub screws is a nightmare for TC

I had problems in the beginning with grub screws cutting nickel (i.e. Mutation XL v3), but no problems in the last 2 years.

Maybe you should come over to the "Dark Side" Join Us & try some Titanium wire!
I use 24 or 26 gauge, it's sturdy! You can really tighten it down under the grub screws & eliminate one bad spot for resistance fluctuation. No one makes Ti in a Clapton variety, So we twist our own! it's semi satisfying to twist up your own, Just Saying!

Titanium has been on my need to get list for the past 2 years now. Okay ordered, along side a coil measuring tool, and Demon Killer Alien v2 coils.

 

[TrollDragon]

Billet Box arrived a few days ago and I just got some time to build it today. Spent the last two days cleaning out the parents apartment, it's amazing how much stuff old people have squirreled away in various places...

Authentic BB Rev 4.
SXK VapeShell
Enushi x Novaboxco Flush 510 Adapter.
Black borro with clear, Ultem and one of Albert's joke covers.
BB Vapes TRVP Stainless plates & button. (Insulated and fixed).
Mokume Drip Tip.
BB Vapes Condensation Plug.
Clear Panels.

He also included a bottle of BLVK (Awesome Tobacco/Cream), some indestructible wraps, boutique cotton and black BB Vapes wraps. It was an awesome little score.

The Vapeshell isn't too bad, this one didn't have the 510 burn adapter but you can hold it centered on a mod to strum the coil. Rayon just resting over the holes and it is wicking and vaping quite nicely with 7 wraps of 26ga SS316L on 2.5mm @ 30W. I really need to make a connector for hooking this up to eScribe.

Early days yet and I will need to find more bridges, FT is all sold out of the major versions.

 

[BillW50]

I think it works this way for 28ga 3mm ID Ni200 wire to get to 450F.

• 5 wraps = 5 watts
• 6 wraps = 6 watts
• 7 wraps = 7 watts
• 8 wraps = 8 watts
• 9 wraps = 9 watts
• 10 wraps = 10 watts

 

[SlickWilly]

Anyone tinker with using those cobb led strip's like they have in these little flashlights?

WalMart has these cheap China 150 Lumen for $2.50, https://www.walmart.com/ip/HT-150LM-2-IN-1-LED-WORK-LIGHT/517667566 I grabbed a half dozen. I have a couple better ones inside my gun safe for lights, just stuck them inside using the magnet on the back. My thought was to take the cobb LED out of them, they are just a thin strip of thin aluminum with the LED on one side, and mount them around the inside the door frame of the safe where they won't be seen but will shine into the safe, maybe a few under the shelf's too. I'd wire them all up on one circut, use a small 110V to 5V charger for power and put a switch somewhere on the door jamb so when I open the door they all come on. With a just couple of the 200 Lumen's that I have now it lights it up well, with six or so of these 150 Lumen's it should be pretty darn bright. Only problem is while testing these strips with a charger they quickly got so hot I couldn't hold onto it. So I checked to see how hot they get using the there AAA battery's and holy cow they get just as hot! I was surprised! I've going to use a thermocouple probe I have for my Fluke meter and see just how hot they get, I don't think it would cause a burn but it's hot enough you don't want to hang onto it. So I wonder, maybe get some thin strips of aluminum to use as heat sinks, I've got some thermopaste I could use between them. You know those plastic reflectors are also actually serving as a heat sink, who da thunk? I hate to go to all this trouble to wire them, get everything installed just to find out they'll burn in a short time and I went to all that for naught... Anyone have an experience with these little cobb's? Thoughts?

 

[SlickWilly]

Billet Box arrived a few days ago and I just got some time to build it today. Spent the last two days cleaning out the parents apartment, it's amazing how much stuff old people have squirreled away in various places...

Authentic BB Rev 4.
SXK VapeShell
Enushi x Novaboxco Flush 510 Adapter.
Black borro with clear, Ultem and one of Albert's joke covers.
BB Vapes TRVP Stainless plates & button. (Insulated and fixed).
Mokume Drip Tip.
BB Vapes Condensation Plug.
Clear Panels.

He also included a bottle of BLVK (Awesome Tobacco/Cream), some indestructible wraps, boutique cotton and black BB Vapes wraps. It was an awesome little score.

The Vapeshell isn't too bad, this one didn't have the 510 burn adapter but you can hold it centered on a mod to strum the coil. Rayon just resting over the holes and it is wicking and vaping quite nicely with 7 wraps of 26ga SS316L on 2.5mm @ 30W. I really need to make a connector for hooking this up to eScribe.

Early days yet and I will need to find more bridges, FT is all sold out of the major versions.

That's quite a order!! Man you're getting into this vaping stuff, you order a lot of stuff! And I fear a rabbit hole!

LoL, we have a BIG old farm house, was built in the 1890's, just the wife and myself now, been here 36 years now. I pity my Daughter some day when we are gone... It is amazing the amount of stuff you can acquire and hang onto when you have tons of rooms, multiple atic's, basement and a smaller old two story barn converted into a shop... Just so many places to put stuff in, we only heat/cool and use less then a fifth of this place, what the hell was I thinking when I insisted this had to be the place back then...

 

[BillW50]

Twilight Zone continues... I just rebuilt a Ni200 28g 3mm ID 10 wrap coil in the Kayfun 5. I was shooting for .10 ohm. It came out to .10000 ohm. I couldn't do that again in a million years. And if the room temperature changes by 2°F, I bet it won't be .10000 ohm anymore.

 

[tiburonfirst]

 

[dwcraig1]

 

[mikepetro]

 

[mikepetro]

Anyone tinker with using those cobb led strip's like they have in these little flashlights?
View attachment 791391

WalMart has these cheap China 150 Lumen for $2.50, https://www.walmart.com/ip/HT-150LM-2-IN-1-LED-WORK-LIGHT/517667566 I grabbed a half dozen. I have a couple better ones inside my gun safe for lights, just stuck them inside using the magnet on the back. My thought was to take the cobb LED out of them, they are just a thin strip of thin aluminum with the LED on one side, and mount them around the inside the door frame of the safe where they won't be seen but will shine into the safe, maybe a few under the shelf's too. I'd wire them all up on one circut, use a small 110V to 5V charger for power and put a switch somewhere on the door jamb so when I open the door they all come on. With a just couple of the 200 Lumen's that I have now it lights it up well, with six or so of these 150 Lumen's it should be pretty darn bright. Only problem is while testing these strips with a charger they quickly got so hot I couldn't hold onto it. So I checked to see how hot they get using the there AAA battery's and holy cow they get just as hot! I was surprised! I've going to use a thermocouple probe I have for my Fluke meter and see just how hot they get, I don't think it would cause a burn but it's hot enough you don't want to hang onto it. So I wonder, maybe get some thin strips of aluminum to use as heat sinks, I've got some thermopaste I could use between them. You know those plastic reflectors are also actually serving as a heat sink, who da thunk? I hate to go to all this trouble to wire them, get everything installed just to find out they'll burn in a short time and I went to all that for naught... Anyone have an experience with these little cobb's? Thoughts?

Aluminum channel or angle works good as a LED heatsink. I used aluminum channel for my fishtank lights and they were 3W LEDs.

They also sell these nice kits with channel and a lens cover designed for making LED strips. The aluminum is thinner though, regular channel works better if you have a lot f heat to dissipate.

https://www.amazon.com/LightingWill...9?s=industrial&ie=UTF8&qid=1547206009&sr=1-19

 

[mikepetro]

BTW, did you end up with enough of the +'s for yourself? After all you had to go through, man I hope so!

Yeah, I wound up with about 4, plus a few spares for the vapocolypse tote that I havent built out yet.

 

[laurie9300]

Anyone tinker with using those cobb led strip's like they have in these little flashlights?
View attachment 791391

WalMart has these cheap China 150 Lumen for $2.50, https://www.walmart.com/ip/HT-150LM-2-IN-1-LED-WORK-LIGHT/517667566 I grabbed a half dozen. I have a couple better ones inside my gun safe for lights, just stuck them inside using the magnet on the back. My thought was to take the cobb LED out of them, they are just a thin strip of thin aluminum with the LED on one side, and mount them around the inside the door frame of the safe where they won't be seen but will shine into the safe, maybe a few under the shelf's too. I'd wire them all up on one circut, use a small 110V to 5V charger for power and put a switch somewhere on the door jamb so when I open the door they all come on. With a just couple of the 200 Lumen's that I have now it lights it up well, with six or so of these 150 Lumen's it should be pretty darn bright. Only problem is while testing these strips with a charger they quickly got so hot I couldn't hold onto it. So I checked to see how hot they get using the there AAA battery's and holy cow they get just as hot! I was surprised! I've going to use a thermocouple probe I have for my Fluke meter and see just how hot they get, I don't think it would cause a burn but it's hot enough you don't want to hang onto it. So I wonder, maybe get some thin strips of aluminum to use as heat sinks, I've got some thermopaste I could use between them. You know those plastic reflectors are also actually serving as a heat sink, who da thunk? I hate to go to all this trouble to wire them, get everything installed just to find out they'll burn in a short time and I went to all that for naught... Anyone have an experience with these little cobb's? Thoughts?

I've played with many, and getting super hot is normal. Like Mike said, heat sinking is the way to go.

Binge watch some bigclive (the world's greatest authority on all things LED).

 

[Steamer861]

Billet Box arrived a few days ago and I just got some time to build it today. Spent the last two days cleaning out the parents apartment, it's amazing how much stuff old people have squirreled away in various places...

Authentic BB Rev 4.
SXK VapeShell
Enushi x Novaboxco Flush 510 Adapter.
Black borro with clear, Ultem and one of Albert's joke covers.
BB Vapes TRVP Stainless plates & button. (Insulated and fixed).
Mokume Drip Tip.
BB Vapes Condensation Plug.
Clear Panels.

He also included a bottle of BLVK (Awesome Tobacco/Cream), some indestructible wraps, boutique cotton and black BB Vapes wraps. It was an awesome little score.

The Vapeshell isn't too bad, this one didn't have the 510 burn adapter but you can hold it centered on a mod to strum the coil. Rayon just resting over the holes and it is wicking and vaping quite nicely with 7 wraps of 26ga SS316L on 2.5mm @ 30W. I really need to make a connector for hooking this up to eScribe.

Early days yet and I will need to find more bridges, FT is all sold out of the major versions.

Pics or it didn't happen

 

[SlickWilly]

Aluminum channel or angle works good as a LED heatsink. I used aluminum channel for my fishtank lights and they were 3W LEDs.

They also sell these nice kits with channel and a lens cover designed for making LED strips. The aluminum is thinner though, regular channel works better if you have a lot f heat to dissipate.

https://www.amazon.com/LightingWill...9?s=industrial&ie=UTF8&qid=1547206009&sr=1-19

Perfect! Thanks Mike! I went to Lowes yesterday looking at channel, flat and angle strips, in my mind I wanted to have something just like the combo pic below, was trying to find two that would fit together, maybe JB Weld them to make something up. A piece like this one Mike is exactly what I was think of, the LED on the flat with the channel in the corners on the inside of the door frame. Now if I can find some these LED's I have will fit in I'll be set, didn't think of Amazon for this stuff, nice!

I've played with many, and getting super hot is normal. Like Mike said, heat sinking is the way to go.

Binge watch some bigclive (the world's greatest authority on all things LED).

Well I was surprised they got that hot, no indication of heat from those lights when using them. So with the channel stock like above, some thermopaste for kicks, why not, got plenty setting here and seeing these LED in the channels will mount inside the safe's metal frame there will be plenty of surface for the heat to sink, I should be good to go. Thank you!!


Next question, these LED run on 3 AAA's, I hooked one to an old 5V 550mA cell phone charger and let it run a min or so, seemed OK. With six or eight running off the same charger, they won't pull anymore amps then they need, correct? I'm not going to over feed them and cook them will I? I guess what I'm getting at, do I need to measure the milliamp draw these LED pull inside a flashlight running off 3 AAA's and then figure out how many milliamps I'll pull using multiples and try to match that with a power supply??

 

[laurie9300]

Next question, these LED run on 3 AAA's, I hooked one to an old 5V 550mA cell phone charger and let it run a min or so, seemed OK. With six or eight running off the same charger, they won't pull anymore amps then they need, correct? I'm not going to over feed them and cook them will I? I guess what I'm getting at, do I need to measure the milliamp draw these LED pull inside a flashlight running off 3 AAA's and then figure out how many milliamps I'll pull using multiples and try to match that with a power supply??

I'd have to see the board to be sure but.....

Less are diodes, as soon as the forward voltage is reached (3V or so each) they act like a dead sort, so NO, they DO NOT pull just what they need.

You will need to ensure they have an appropriate current limiting resistor in series with each COB. It may already be on the board, but sometimes in cheap stuff they aren't, and they rely on the batteries not having enough amps to run the LEDs.

I still recommend watching some bigclive, choose videos about COBs. He'll explain everything and draw circuits for you.

I also doubt 0.5A will be enough to run 8 LEDs?

 

[awsum140]

Throw an ammeter on it, Willie. That's guaranteed to tell you what the draw actually is.

 

[SlickWilly]

I'd have to see the board to be sure but.....

Less are diodes, as soon as the forward voltage is reached (3V or so each) they act like a dead sort, so NO, they DO NOT pull just what they need.

You will need to ensure they have an appropriate current limiting resistor in series with each COB. It may already be on the board, but sometimes in cheap stuff they aren't, and they rely on the batteries not having enough amps to run the LEDs.

I still recommend watching some bigclive, choose videos about COBs. He'll explain everything and draw circuits for you.

I also doubt 0.5A will be enough to run 8 LEDs?

I'll watch that video and get some pics of these board led's. Thank You

Throw an ammeter on it, Willie. That's guaranteed to tell you what the draw actually is.

Still not feeling 100% but I made it out to the shop to find my thermocouple for my Fluke, man it's freaking cold out there! I'll see what temps these get to running off the 3 AAA's and measure the mA these leds draw off them while I have the meter inside. This is a year old project, it may be another year before it's completed, I move at slow pace with my tinkering ideas, got tons of them in my head, just finding the time when I feel like getting at the bench.

I know, I could just buy a light kit and have it installed in an evening. But I know I can rig some decent lighting for a fraction of the cost and some tinkering to get there and it gives me a lot of satisfaction of I made that and saved money doing it.

 

[mikepetro]

I'll watch that video and get some pics of these board led's. Thank You



Still not feeling 100% but I made it out to the shop to find my thermocouple for my Fluke, man it's freaking cold out there! I'll see what temps these get to running off the 3 AAA's and measure the mA these leds draw off them while I have the meter inside. This is a year old project, it may be another year before it's completed, I move at slow pace with my tinkering ideas, got tons of them in my head, just finding the time when I feel like getting at the bench.

I know, I could just buy a light kit and have it installed in an evening. But I know I can rig some decent lighting for a fraction of the cost and some tinkering to get there and it gives me a lot of satisfaction of I made that and saved money doing it.

$4.55 2W COB LED Car DIY Light Bead Lamp Chip (5-Pack) 5-pack - 60*15mm / 180LM / pure white at FastTech - Worldwide Free Shipping

 

[SlickWilly]

Sitting here thinking I've got to brave the cold to go back out and shut the shop lights back off, but I don't worry if they stay on because all the lights were swapped out to new LED's shoplights and it cost so little to run them. Then suddenly...

DING!

​

Last spring Lowes was changing light suppliers and had 98% of their lighting stock on sellout, I bought a dozen of the 48" florescent style LED replacement bulbs for pennies on the dollar, you can see inside them, they have two strips of LED's that run the entire length and they are made to be used in a shoplight without a ballast, direct connect to 110v. I may pull one apart and see what they look like inside, all plastic construction.