Very strange. I had these Geekvape IM1 KA1 0.4Ω coils for about 18 months now. I used 2 in two Geekvape Shield tanks. Although I think I ruined those tanks by putting in this strong artificial berry juice in them. As I soaked, cleaned, and repeated and I just can't get that smell and taste out of them. So I never did anything with those coils until now.
Well a month or so ago I acquired two Geekvape Cerberus tanks that takes the same size coils (also the same size as the TFV8 Baby, btw). Although they came with mesh coils and I thought they were pretty good and all. Well I still had 5 packs of those IM1 coils and put one in after that one mesh was done.
Oh my! This taste and vapes very good. I might be mistaken, but pretty much like that mesh I pulled out of there. But later it got very strange. I logged all of the juice and puffs and it now had 77ml through it and 4344 puffs later and that coil still looks spotless. No gunk, discoloration, or anything and the flavor and the vapor is still very good. vaping with my Yeti Vape Haze Cap which has been my ADV for 5 years now.
Besides that coil, the only thing I can think of that I have been doing differently is running the temperature a tad lower than I normally do. As I have an Atlantis EVO tank with a Triton Ni200 0.15Ω coil with the same juice and I am running it at 400°F and I usually vape it 30°F to 40°F higher. That one has had 19ml through it and it is showing about what it normally would look like. I also use the same Triton and juice in one of my BB too (430°F there). These Tritons usually lasts through 80ml to 100ml worth of juice. And I am vaping that IM1 coil at about the same temperature.
I just can't explain why that IM1 coil is doing so well. It could be a fluke I suppose. But I am tempted to just pull that coil out and try another one and see if that one does the same thing. They are rated 40 to 60w and I vape them at 36w. And I even vaped it down once to just 2 drops of juice left in the tank and it still wasn't close to giving a dry hit. Very strange.
Well a month or so ago I acquired two Geekvape Cerberus tanks that takes the same size coils (also the same size as the TFV8 Baby, btw). Although they came with mesh coils and I thought they were pretty good and all. Well I still had 5 packs of those IM1 coils and put one in after that one mesh was done.
Oh my! This taste and vapes very good. I might be mistaken, but pretty much like that mesh I pulled out of there. But later it got very strange. I logged all of the juice and puffs and it now had 77ml through it and 4344 puffs later and that coil still looks spotless. No gunk, discoloration, or anything and the flavor and the vapor is still very good. vaping with my Yeti Vape Haze Cap which has been my ADV for 5 years now.
Besides that coil, the only thing I can think of that I have been doing differently is running the temperature a tad lower than I normally do. As I have an Atlantis EVO tank with a Triton Ni200 0.15Ω coil with the same juice and I am running it at 400°F and I usually vape it 30°F to 40°F higher. That one has had 19ml through it and it is showing about what it normally would look like. I also use the same Triton and juice in one of my BB too (430°F there). These Tritons usually lasts through 80ml to 100ml worth of juice. And I am vaping that IM1 coil at about the same temperature.
I just can't explain why that IM1 coil is doing so well. It could be a fluke I suppose. But I am tempted to just pull that coil out and try another one and see if that one does the same thing. They are rated 40 to 60w and I vape them at 36w. And I even vaped it down once to just 2 drops of juice left in the tank and it still wasn't close to giving a dry hit. Very strange.
We had a very "interesting" day. It started out normally enough but around noon time it started getting kind of dark and threatening. I had a couple of loose ends to do outside so I hustled out and got them done, but just before I came back in the Mrs. came out to tell me we lost power. As soon as I got back in the house it opened up, big time. Our back fence is about 200 feet from the house and I couldn't see it at all. The wind was howling harder than I've ever heard it since we've lived here, say about 12 years. According to my anemometer, mounted at about 15 feet, we had a 47MPH gust and that's pretty much shielded by 60-70 trees all around the yard. Above that tree line I'm betting it was over 70MPH. We got a text from PSE&G saying they'd have power back by 4:45PM.
We have a generator that can run the house but it's been giving me fits. It'll start and run for a minute then stall right out. I thought it was the solenoid valve on the carb, a safety feature for "tip over", but that wasn't it. Then I went to the ignition switch. That has me really confused. One set of contacts makes in the start position, pretty normal, but the other two sets of contacts make in the off position. What the heck is that about. So the generator was in pieces.
We did go out and got 20 gallons of water from the local spring for flushing purposes. We had a quick bowl of chili, which the Mrs. made two gallons of this afternoon since the stove is propane. Then she went out to get a cold soda and some water for drinking. Along the way she saw a whole line of utility poles snapped or blown over. She didn't get any soda or water but did gas up her car.
Then we got a text from PSE&G saying power would be restored by 12:59PM, yeah, right. Out of frustration, and the Mrs. talking about a whole house, professionally installed, $10K-$15K replacement, I went out there with the ignition switch and put it all back together. It started fine and stalled...rinse and repeat about six times but each time it ran a little longer. It's been running for the last two hours without a hiccup. I'll gas it up before we go to sleep and let it run all night.
We have a generator that can run the house but it's been giving me fits. It'll start and run for a minute then stall right out. I thought it was the solenoid valve on the carb, a safety feature for "tip over", but that wasn't it. Then I went to the ignition switch. That has me really confused. One set of contacts makes in the start position, pretty normal, but the other two sets of contacts make in the off position. What the heck is that about. So the generator was in pieces.
We did go out and got 20 gallons of water from the local spring for flushing purposes. We had a quick bowl of chili, which the Mrs. made two gallons of this afternoon since the stove is propane. Then she went out to get a cold soda and some water for drinking. Along the way she saw a whole line of utility poles snapped or blown over. She didn't get any soda or water but did gas up her car.
Then we got a text from PSE&G saying power would be restored by 12:59PM, yeah, right. Out of frustration, and the Mrs. talking about a whole house, professionally installed, $10K-$15K replacement, I went out there with the ignition switch and put it all back together. It started fine and stalled...rinse and repeat about six times but each time it ran a little longer. It's been running for the last two hours without a hiccup. I'll gas it up before we go to sleep and let it run all night.
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Better than the triple mesh Freemax?
It's nice to be prepared! A line of poles mite take a week to fix?
Yeah, a "little"update on the repair time. It's actually 11:45PM tomorrow. Glad I keep enough gas handy.
No, I wouldn't go that far. The FreeMax coils are larger, more flavor, and has more airflow. But the Cerberus isn't that far behind either. They both are very enjoyable vapes. I definitely will use both. I do have some Ello HW3 0.2Ω triple coils coming that is supposed to also fit the Cerberus. I don't think they are going to be terrific or anything. I just want to try them out. There must be like 30 different coils that fit the Cerberus.
Years ago I was into my brother's Black & Decker electric lawn mower. While it plugs into 110 AC the power goes through a diode to convert it to DC. When you switch it off the motor becomes a generator and the current is fed into a big resistor so as to slow the motor/blade down quickly.
Perhaps that's what the contacts are for is awsum140's switch in the off position are for.
Edit: although I doubt it.
Perhaps that's what the contacts are for is awsum140's switch in the off position are for.
Edit: although I doubt it.
I put my LED parking/turn bulbs and the required resistors in tonight and took note of the upper and lower radiator hoses. They seem to go to almost the same place, I wonder how that works.
Here's the parking lights, the DRL module is in customs so it has yet to be installed. Look at them hoses.
Here's the parking lights, the DRL module is in customs so it has yet to be installed. Look at them hoses.
i'm in need of help again 
my lawn mower battery needs replacement but i can't get the thingy off the positive post. i've been spraying with kroil since sunday but no miracle yet. that nut is frozen solid. are there any tricks i don't know about
my lawn mower battery needs replacement but i can't get the thingy off the positive post. i've been spraying with kroil since sunday but no miracle yet. that nut is frozen solid. are there any tricks i don't know about
My trick is a Dremel with a cutoff wheel assuming brute force doesn't work. Brute force may take a pair of Vice Grips locked extremely tight once the nut rounds out.
Still running on the generator this morning, but at least it's running!
Still running on the generator this morning, but at least it's running!
My little job this morning did have some failure to it. Before I started the job I probed the wires of the socket to determine which wire was for the turn signal, that is the one the resistor attaches to.
So I check the one on the passenger side and it was the center wire. I didn't bother checking the other side as it surely has to be the same....right? Wrong, it was on the end so I had to remove the resistor from the center wire on the driver's side and attach to one of the end wires. I still don't understand how they can be different unless the sockets are two different part numbers, they look the same.
On my sockets the wires go straight out the back but this is the same otherwise.
I even tried turning the bulb 180
So I check the one on the passenger side and it was the center wire. I didn't bother checking the other side as it surely has to be the same....right? Wrong, it was on the end so I had to remove the resistor from the center wire on the driver's side and attach to one of the end wires. I still don't understand how they can be different unless the sockets are two different part numbers, they look the same.
On my sockets the wires go straight out the back but this is the same otherwise.
I even tried turning the bulb 180
Do the wires come ut in the same order on both sides?
problem is the location - that terminal is right against the seat once it's flipped up. can't get a good grip for nothing with the vise to hold one side steady while trying to turn the nut - and as to brute force, not sure how much i got of that
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