I've done that before as well. If I do put it back on with a little higher resistance, the mod will eventually go back to the low reading again through refinement.When that happens to me, (weak vape) it's the resistance reading wrong. I take off the atty & put it back, when it asks me if it's a new coil I answer yes. at this point my resistance is wrong for one reason or another.
I find with the "Clapton coils" after a while they get gumed up & the resistance changes.
Or my coli came loose or the 510 connection has some issues
Morning everyone! Well I woke up extra early so I decided to build one of the Hanna enclosures which finally showed yesterday. It was more of a challenge then building the ERM+'s, not as much room inside. I prepped the board by soldering on the JST and the Pos & Neg wires to a XT30 but once I set the board in the mod I discovered that it didn't look like enough room for both connectors. I left the JST and removed the XT30, I soldered the Pos & Neg wires to the board. With the board then being live I worried about bumping the board to the case and shorting it as I set it in place so I cut tiny pieces of kapton tape and covered all and any exposed components that might touch while making sure I didn't cover any of the grounding mounting pads. I also had to do a little surgery on the battery where the wires come out, the outer shrink wrap had a pucker that hit the case and would have forced the battery upwards, I carefully trimmed that as well and end wrap so the wires had more of a genital bend, that also bought me a tad more room which turned out to be just enough. The wire from the 510 to the board has to be very short and have a stout bend otherwise the battery will be hitting that, I replaced the stiff wire they had in the 510, shaped, trimmed and tinned the wire. I put the 510 back together after the board was in place then soldered it to the board, worked out well. Checking the mod resistance with a shorting tool (actually a FD 510 installing tool) once I got some pressure on the center pin I got a smooth consistent .004 ohm while screwing the tool in and out, looks like a decent working 510.
I'm impressed with these, everything is tight fitting, nicely machined, everything was drilled and tapped, buttons are a tight fit so no rattles, no blems on the two I got. Yeah nice little mod, smoking deal, may just order a couple more! Thanks again Steamer!
On, one thing I found in these, on the inside where the 510 threads are exposed, I found metal chips there. One had broke free and was inside the mod when I opened it, I took a dental pic and knocked the rest free, they could come loose and short the board so heads up.
I'm impressed with these, everything is tight fitting, nicely machined, everything was drilled and tapped, buttons are a tight fit so no rattles, no blems on the two I got. Yeah nice little mod, smoking deal, may just order a couple more! Thanks again Steamer!
On, one thing I found in these, on the inside where the 510 threads are exposed, I found metal chips there. One had broke free and was inside the mod when I opened it, I took a dental pic and knocked the rest free, they could come loose and short the board so heads up.
I forgot to ask, as these cases the same size as the reference mods Evolv sent out during the beta testing for the 200's?
Roughly, yes, if any different it is only a mm or two.
Good to hear Willy This is certainly a great deal, $20 for a nice enclosure & lipo!
Even with the Canadian Shipping rate I paid, still a great deal.
Now couple this with the 250's, We basically stole on the last group buy, I'm going to make good quality mods for the price of a Cheep Chinese ones
This is certainly a great deal, $20 for a nice enclosure & lipo!Even with the Canadian Shipping rate I paid, still a great deal.
Now couple this with the 250's, We basically stole on the last group buy, I'm going to make good quality mods for the price of a Cheep Chinese ones
I wanted to ask, is the inside on the coloured ones clear of powder coat? On the 510 threading & board mounts?
in case anybody here is wishing for google news to return to the old layout you can find it here
https://news.google.com/news/feeds?output=rss&q=politics%ned=in&hl=en-IN
https://news.google.com/news/feeds?output=rss&q=politics%ned=in&hl=en-IN
Something else popped up with these Hanna enclosures that I want to warn you guys to look for. The buttons (at least on the two I got) are a very tight fight, you have to put them straight in the holes or they won't go in. The edge of the holes were left a sharp 90 deg angle and because of this you have to make a straight push or they bind. I'm going to take mine apart and just break the edges of the holes on both the inside and outside, I think I'll also look at polishing the bore of the holes just to open them a tiny bit.
I'm not a fan of the fire button being flush with the face of the mod, you have to press the button into the recess around the button to make it fire. I may add something to the face of the fire button to make it stick out just a little, I know that's going to take away from the looks but it's annoying. I'm thinking of super gluing a stainless washer to it, I can always remove it later, the only other thought I had was build up some JB Weld, that would be harder to remove with the buttons being engraved. It's the only thing I don't like, not a deal breaker by any means.
This would be one way to break the edge of those holes, especially on the inside of the mod where space is very limited. Go slow and easy and it will barely show on any anodized mods, I would spin the screw by hand, you just need to break the sharp edge.
I'm not a fan of the fire button being flush with the face of the mod, you have to press the button into the recess around the button to make it fire. I may add something to the face of the fire button to make it stick out just a little, I know that's going to take away from the looks but it's annoying. I'm thinking of super gluing a stainless washer to it, I can always remove it later, the only other thought I had was build up some JB Weld, that would be harder to remove with the buttons being engraved. It's the only thing I don't like, not a deal breaker by any means.
This would be one way to break the edge of those holes, especially on the inside of the mod where space is very limited. Go slow and easy and it will barely show on any anodized mods, I would spin the screw by hand, you just need to break the sharp edge.
Amazon stepped up to the plate to try and make things right, I got ready to print the return shipping labels for the two wrong DVR's they sent and I found they are for UPS and I have to drop them off at a UPS depot, the guy told me FedEx would come and pick them up. I sent them a message about it, not very convenient for me to pay for gas and drive to the closest depot that is only open two hours on weekdays late in the afternoon for their two screw ups. They replied and said to compensate me I can keep one of the wrong DVR's and do with it what I wish, hey I'm happy with that, these come with a 1TB hard drive!
I would hate to have to wick this thing!
And try to get rid of hot spots without making more.....
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