Damn! What a coinencedence! I was just thinking of asking others how many times have you seen a mass produced mod and wonder if you can fit it with a DNA board? I seem to think this more times than I would want to admit to.
I have went down that road, several times! Doing DNA transplants. Most budget mods are just that! a collection of substandard parts
My advise? start from scratch.Quality components make for a quality mod
Here's the thing for me, I don't trust TC wire ever. The TCR curves are also only as good as the wire being used so it's just a shot in the dark for us all unless we have a good quality temp probe and meter. (Mike?). Here's what I've been doing lately:
When I get a new spool of wire I start my test by selecting the wire type profile, set my mod to 380°f and dial in more power than I need, atty type doesn't matter. The vapor should be spitty and make the atty very hot very quickly at 380°f because it should be too low of a temp to properly vaporize the juice into a fine mist. Next I move the temp up in 10°f increments which should make the atty cooler as the vapor mist becomes finer and aids in cooling. If I have to increase the temp above 450°f to attain maximum cooling I raise the TCR value in escribe. Just so happens that when the vapor cooling effect is at maximum so is the flavor. This magic spot (temp-wise) for atty cooling and flavor always seems to be just above the spitty zone. It's working great for me and I feel safer knowing that I'm vaping at the lowest temp possible to produce a spitty-free vape and the great flavor is a bonus. The 450°f reference above is just a random temp I chose as a pacification reference and may or may not reflect actual coil temp. The same thing can be said about trusting a wire's tcr value and your mod's temp display imo.
What?
Temperature equipment can be had pretty cheap. I love IR temperature probes myself. Some good ones can be had for under 15 bucks. Although they only work with dry coils. I tried with vapor and the silly lens collects vapor and then they can't see anything passed the lens.
Well I don't know what the wire type you are talking about. But wire types like SS is made from different alloys. That is like a crap shoot. I bet the curves vary from batch to batch and from manufacture to manufacture. It's made from a number of different metals and one tiny variation changes the whole resistance curve. Not super off, but enough to throw the temperature calibration off.
Something like Ni200 is supposed to be 100% nickel. Yeah well I seriously doubt any metal is actually 100% of anything. But it is probably damn near 100% and close enough that a fixed temperature curve should work well enough for virtually any batch and manufacture.
Now 380°F is pretty damn low. Yes some (maybe most) juices will produce some vapor at this temperature. But it is so small that I can't imagine anybody more than 1% of vapers would ever find that vape acceptable. I would guess and say at 95% of TC vapers are vaping at 420°F or higher.
Sure some like a hot vape and some like a cool vape. But for those that are interested in flavor, some flavors come out more at higher temperatures. And while others come out more at lower temperatures. So not only do you have to balance between a hot or cold vape, but also balance out the temperature to bring out the flavors you want.
You also mentioned wattage and temperature setting. I don't know if you know, but if the wattage is set too low, it is never going to hit that temperature that you set. The opposite is also true. Say you have a 250C with a four cell battery which could be set at 400 watts (International version). But have the temperature set at 200°F, guess what? If the coil ever actually receives 400 watts briefly is questionable. But even if it comes close it will be so fast and quickly throttled down in wattage to hold it at 200°F. But it is always a good idea to not have either one set way too high.
Yeah, all that sounds about right and people that like a hot vape are gonna die sooner.
Are you really vaping at 380°F? Assuming that is even close to accurate. If so that is super cautious. All of the studies that I have seen which claim some really bad stuff coming out of vapor, always crank the heat way up much higher than any vaper I know of and then they find chemicals that are known to be bad to be inhaled. It's a no brainier to me, of course if you burn the crap out of everything you are going to get bad stuff out of it. But who vapes that way?Yeah, all that sounds about right and people that like a hot vape are gonna die sooner.
There are vapers who has vaped for over 10 years vaping at my best guess between 420°F to say 560°F. And in that time, there is not a single case can I find that has found any harm due to vaping. And I really wish any study or article which claims that vaping is dangerous to actually show numbers of vapers which has been harmed or died from vaping. So far, they have showed nothing! Until they come up with something believable I am calling BS!
No. If you read my post you'll see that I use that as a starting temp when evaluated the tcr of a new roll of wire. To answer one of your previous questions; I use SS430, Ti and NiFe52 alloy wire. The only wire I haven't tried is platnum.
ETA: Oh, and I use SS316L in all my mech squonkers.
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I have also tried tungsten, still keep the curve on my devices, but TI remains my wire of choice.
Ever have one of those days?
When I logged in on this craptop I noticed I was missing a mapped drive to my desktop. The desktop acts as a server as well as running folding@home and video surveillance software. I rebooted the craptop, sometimes Winderz10 has problems reconnecting, but that didn't fix it. Went in and looked at the desktop and, sure enough, one of the SSD drives was missing. Shut down, tested for SATA problems and power problems but neither was the case. This is the second Samsung EVO SSD drive that's failed with no warning after a little over a year of use. So, I threw in a 500GB WD conventional drive for extra storge space and checked for data recovery. Only about $450 to recover the drive. My external backup USB drive failed about two weeks ago and I've been putting off replacing it, second one of those to crap out too. Total loss is about 200GB of data, none of it "critical" but a PITA none the less. So now my network connection is crawling as I back up to the "cloud".
After that I made breakfast and noticed the milk wasn't as cold as it should have been. We have a remote kitchen thermometer with two probes, so I put one in the fridge and one in the freezer. The fridge is at 50 and the freezer is at -4. That tells me the circulator fan for the fridge is dead. I'll look online and see what I can find out about it before I take the fridge apart to, hopefully, fix it.
Oh yeah, it's raining, again today.
When I logged in on this craptop I noticed I was missing a mapped drive to my desktop. The desktop acts as a server as well as running folding@home and video surveillance software. I rebooted the craptop, sometimes Winderz10 has problems reconnecting, but that didn't fix it. Went in and looked at the desktop and, sure enough, one of the SSD drives was missing. Shut down, tested for SATA problems and power problems but neither was the case. This is the second Samsung EVO SSD drive that's failed with no warning after a little over a year of use. So, I threw in a 500GB WD conventional drive for extra storge space and checked for data recovery. Only about $450 to recover the drive. My external backup USB drive failed about two weeks ago and I've been putting off replacing it, second one of those to crap out too. Total loss is about 200GB of data, none of it "critical" but a PITA none the less. So now my network connection is crawling as I back up to the "cloud".
After that I made breakfast and noticed the milk wasn't as cold as it should have been. We have a remote kitchen thermometer with two probes, so I put one in the fridge and one in the freezer. The fridge is at 50 and the freezer is at -4. That tells me the circulator fan for the fridge is dead. I'll look online and see what I can find out about it before I take the fridge apart to, hopefully, fix it.
Oh yeah, it's raining, again today.
Check the defrost timer^^^^
There will be lots of ice on the coil if that's the case, clogging the duct from the freezer to the fridge.
Easy to tell if fan....hear it.
There will be lots of ice on the coil if that's the case, clogging the duct from the freezer to the fridge.
Easy to tell if fan....hear it.
Yeah, I have too many days like that.... But it's nice and sunny here, comfortable with a gentle breeze. (Sorry, the devil made me do it )
I was wondering if there wasn't air flow blockage somewhere, maybe iced up?
While your already into it, another common problem with mine from time to time is a plugged drain, might want to take a peak at that as well. Have you heard any subtle gurgling noise coming from it? That's a sign it's restricted and getting ready to plug up completely.
(Sorry, the devil made me do it )I was wondering if there wasn't air flow blockage somewhere, maybe iced up?
While your already into it, another common problem with mine from time to time is a plugged drain, might want to take a peak at that as well. Have you heard any subtle gurgling noise coming from it? That's a sign it's restricted and getting ready to plug up completely.
awsum, I've been using a couple of the PNY SSD's now for a couple years and they have worked fine (knock on wood, hope I'm not jinking myself). One thing you may want to google, there are a couple settings that are recommended to make with win10 when using SSD's otherwise if left could harm the drive. I can't remember just what they were but I ran into that when putting one in the wife's win10 laptop, my memory is going all to hell....
Also with the PNY drives, they give you a key for a free limited version of Acronis cloning software, what's nice with that software is you can also set it up to make scheduled backup images of your drive, partial or full. Would have to be copied to another drive but it would save your .... the next time you have one up and die on you. I must confess, I've been putting it off and haven't set mine up to backup yet, guess this is a wake up call to get off my .... and get er done!
Years ago when I had my auto damage appraisal business I had two desktops and a laptop for on the road, I had a different software that would duplicate new files and do nightly backups from one computer to another. I would work off the laptop when in the field, then when I came home I'd first run the software to duplicate the new files to the main desktop, then continue working off the desktop. The second desktop was there so if the main computer failed, with the tap of keyboard keys I was instantly on the second desktop and continuing my work, at the end of the day, all files were updated to the laptop and the second desktop, ready for the next morning. I never had to worry about not having all my files at hand be it at home or on the road and I always had backups, those files were something that just could not be lost, by law I had to keep copies, it worked well for me.
I also had fax software, my assignments from the insurance companies would come by fax to my home desktop, the fax software would forward the fax by email to me while out on the road and it would send me a text to my cell phone alerting me a new fax came in. With an air card in the laptop I could download the fax and see if the new assignment was anywhere near where I was at the time, many times I'd swing by and inspect the vehicle the same day. It saved me a lot of travel time, gas and the insurance companies were impressed how fast my turn around time was, which brought me more work. And my cell phone was my business phone, I had a rolling office no matter where I was, worked great for a one man show.
Then I fell off the ladder, that was the end of my business.... After three years out, there was no coming back.
Also with the PNY drives, they give you a key for a free limited version of Acronis cloning software, what's nice with that software is you can also set it up to make scheduled backup images of your drive, partial or full. Would have to be copied to another drive but it would save your .... the next time you have one up and die on you. I must confess, I've been putting it off and haven't set mine up to backup yet, guess this is a wake up call to get off my .... and get er done!
Years ago when I had my auto damage appraisal business I had two desktops and a laptop for on the road, I had a different software that would duplicate new files and do nightly backups from one computer to another. I would work off the laptop when in the field, then when I came home I'd first run the software to duplicate the new files to the main desktop, then continue working off the desktop. The second desktop was there so if the main computer failed, with the tap of keyboard keys I was instantly on the second desktop and continuing my work, at the end of the day, all files were updated to the laptop and the second desktop, ready for the next morning. I never had to worry about not having all my files at hand be it at home or on the road and I always had backups, those files were something that just could not be lost, by law I had to keep copies, it worked well for me.
I also had fax software, my assignments from the insurance companies would come by fax to my home desktop, the fax software would forward the fax by email to me while out on the road and it would send me a text to my cell phone alerting me a new fax came in. With an air card in the laptop I could download the fax and see if the new assignment was anywhere near where I was at the time, many times I'd swing by and inspect the vehicle the same day. It saved me a lot of travel time, gas and the insurance companies were impressed how fast my turn around time was, which brought me more work. And my cell phone was my business phone, I had a rolling office no matter where I was, worked great for a one man show.
Then I fell off the ladder, that was the end of my business.... After three years out, there was no coming back.
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