You have lot of voltage drop if that's the case. I get 4V out of a freshly charged battery with a voltage drop of 0.2V.
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You have lot of voltage drop if that's the case. I get 4V out of a freshly charged battery with a voltage drop of 0.2V.
I liked watching the video. Started off being pretty much the most awkward interview in the history of video interviews, but got interesting later.
Anyway I'm glad they're working with innokin; the mvp 2 was one of my earlier devices, and apart from the god awful 510 connection, it was a sweet solid mod.
Now, if they would just pump out some hardy box mod at a reasonable price.
Rubs hands in glee
Anyway I'm glad they're working with innokin; the mvp 2 was one of my earlier devices, and apart from the god awful 510 connection, it was a sweet solid mod.
Now, if they would just pump out some hardy box mod at a reasonable price.
Rubs hands in glee
You're not understanding what we're talking about. DNA boards can get 8.3v at any battery voltage.
I understand exactly what we're talking about. We're talking about how low a DNA-device can fire, not how high it can fire. We all know that the DNA boards don't regulate down below the voltage under load, yet you claim it does.
You also claim that a fully charged battery packs a load of 3.4-3-5V. Something is terribly wrong if this is the case. If this is without a load, the battery doesn't charge enough. If this is with a load, you have a high voltage drop, either internal in the battery or in the mod/atty.
Fresh Video.... Part 1 7/30/2014 A PBusardo Video - My Visit To Evolv & Factory Tour - Part 1
Fresh Video.... Part 2 7/30/2014 A PBusardo Video - My Visit To Evolv & Factory Tour - Part 2
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There's an easy solution for that -- don't build 'em quite that low.
There's an easy solution for that -- don't build 'em quite that low.
Hyuk. I get that a lot so I guess I'll explain it here.
I like vaping dual coils. And I have no interest in subohming for the sake of it. But unless I use something like a 32ga or a 30ga wire to coil, I use 28ga and always end up in the region if 0.8ohms. That gives me the best response time and surface area.
Adding more wraps = significantly slower heat up time
Using higher gauge wires = significantly lower surface area.
So. Yeah. It's not that I'm dyinnnnnng to sub ohm. It just so happens my preferred build ends up being 0.8 ohms. I would be happy as hell if somehow I could get a wire as fat as the 28gauge, and still hit 1.2 or 1.4 ohms.
Also just watch the tour of evolv facilities. john is sucha awesome geek. Big fan
I made no such claim.
There is nothing wrong, that is just how it is. It's a result of the board itself, these are results from a copper wired mod with effectively no resistance in connections or wiring. Actually having the devices and knowing what you're talking about is good.
Reduce your coil diameter and make it longer, or increase diameter with the higher gauge wire. There is no reason to get appreciable response lag with coils in the >1 ohm range.
But of course lamenting a lack of response or surface area doesn't square with your desire to reduce wattage, so clearly there is some ... jive ... being talked here.
DNA20, starts at the numbers:
A PBusardo Review - The DNA 20 - YouTube
DNA30, starts at the numbers:
A PBusardo Review & Contest Winners - THE DNA 30 - YouTube
You are partly right. As you can see from those videos, it is possible to get it to deliver down to 3.4V on the DNA30, but you have to set it all the way down below the setting you want it to deliver. If you set it up to where it is supposed to deliver those 3.4V, you get 3.7V.
So, yeah it does somewhat of down stepping, but it's very unaccurate and very unreliable.
Anyway, with a DNA30/SXxxx device, as with mechs, it's not hard to make the surface area of the coil the way you want it at the resistance you want, so I really don't see the problem either way.
That's not what the videos show. It regulates a ways below battery voltage, and it's stable, accurate, and reliable. Again it helps to actually have the boards and actually have done the testing, rather than talking out of school.
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Have you tried ribbon wire? It's all I use. I did this the other night just for fun and to see the difference. It's 28ga round and .8 ribbon. Both are 9 wraps on a 5/64 bit. And both were 2.2 ohms. I'm not using them because I use .6 ribbon on the KFL and .8 ribbon with dual coils in my dripper. Just a thought.
I run my KFL coil at 1.3 ohm +/- and the dripper duals at .5 ohm.
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It looks like the critical slip of the tongue was the temperature-regulated chip. I suspect that they have a chip that can be regulated by sensing temperature (e.g., Resistance thermometer - Wikipedia, the free encyclopedia) - Check out 13:46 in part 1 for the clue. They may be trying to develop this in combination with inductive heating. So you no longer specify watts, but temperature and the chip will attempt to provide the require wattage to generate a constant heat. This can be achieved by first delivering the maximum wattage at the beginning and as soon as the temperature is reached maintain a steady temperature with appropriate wattage.
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