fc-2000 porous ceramic wick

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pdib

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So, hey guys, I've been starting to think that all your wicking is happening on the surface of the ceramic, and it needn't even be porous. I'm going to start thinking in terms of ceramic with a surface texture and ignore porosity altogether. Here's a demonstration of the principle. (must give credit to Shortyjacobs and his "wire rope for wick" thread.

View attachment 191187View attachment 191188

3mm stainless machine screw. works like a charm. Single layer of ss mesh to alleviate shorting.
 

TBinAZ

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So, hey guys, I've been starting to think that all your wicking is happening on the surface of the ceramic, and it needn't even be porous. I'm going to start thinking in terms of ceramic with a surface texture and ignore porosity altogether. Here's a demonstration of the principle. (must give credit to Shortyjacobs and his "wire rope for wick" thread.

View attachment 191187View attachment 191188

3mm stainless machine screw. works like a charm. Single layer of ss mesh to alleviate shorting.

I can see the concept if maybe the whole bolt was wrapped with a thin mesh, but my thought is currently only the small portion of mesh that might be contacting the liquid is what is actually pulling it upward when the tank is full or when tilted. How would the capillary action be achieved with the rest of the bolt thread? Quite impossible. The small eccentric tubes within the ceramic wick structure is what provides the pull with these things. Kind of like a sponge.
 

martin777

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just noticed, the one you linked isnt the exact one he used. can tell by where the screw connects. hopefully its just as effective. also, just found a 3 set for 4 bucks more
3pc Large 40mm 1-5/8" Diamond Cut-Off Grinding Wheels - Fits Dremel - Cut Glass Stone Tile Hardened Steel - 3 Grits - Amazon.com

Set includes 3 grits: fine 400, medium 200 & coarse 100

the one he linked is 100 grit

THESE are what I used on the SAME top fin stone. Had the Dremmel on say "medium" speed. Buzzed right through this stuff DRY!
 

pdib

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i drained to 1/2 tank and am trying it. seems as long as the screw is wet, the gradual pitch of the threads is enough.

I'm not suggesting that one could vape with only a screw and never moving from perfect vertical. I'm just looking at how much happens on the outside vs. the inside. I know the stones need at least room in the wick hole, and really do well with a little tilt. This is working with the bit of mesh on top and a 1 o'clock tilt (very slight), at a 1/2 tank.
 

TBinAZ

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I'm not suggesting that one could vape with only a screw and never moving from perfect vertical. I'm just looking at how much happens on the outside vs. the inside. I know the stones need at least room in the wick hole, and really do well with a little tilt. This is working with the bit of mesh on top and a 1 o'clock tilt (very slight), at a 1/2 tank.

Your thinking will work. The extra room around the porous wick allows for the pressure differentiation needed to allow the capillary action, unless you leave the fill hole unplugged, or have a second open wick hole. Yes, if you tilt past 90 degrees the outside of the wick will also bring the liquid to the coil.
 

DeadPerfect

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So, hey guys, I've been starting to think that all your wicking is happening on the surface of the ceramic, and it needn't even be porous. I'm going to start thinking in terms of ceramic with a surface texture and ignore porosity altogether. Here's a demonstration of the principle. (must give credit to Shortyjacobs and his "wire rope for wick" thread.

View attachment 191187View attachment 191188

3mm stainless machine screw. works like a charm. Single layer of ss mesh to alleviate shorting.
The next big thing: vaping bolts! :)
 

vapdivrr

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well... not with standard dremel cutting discs it doesnt. wet, dry, slow, fast, still hard. little easier wet, but not much. im gonna go and assume diamond discs make a huge difference. scuba dan's video, he goes through it with ease.

i got both the sides off, but when i went to make a straight line, i coudnt even get a starter line straight. things dancing all around, making a bad line. off hand, anyone know where he got that huge diamond disc?



heres my stone and the bad line cut i started. after that wasted another cutting disc, i stopped. oh... and that stone was soaking for 10 minutes.

oJbjgOV.jpg


iWn2mKz.jpg


i would tend to think that the standard dremel cutting wheel is maybe carbid and not diamond. i only have experience in diamond, so dont know how anything else would work. also if you do get a diamond blade it would be easier to use some water as you cut it, but without a wet saw it may be a little tricky to actually apply the water the right way without getting your dremel wet. either use it dry like dan or have someone use a spray bottle as you cut it, this will make it a little easier to cut and keep the dust down.
 

vapdivrr

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Why I had 2 of my AGA-T2s drilled to 9/16. The travel on the outside, being unrestricted by pores, detours, winds, etc., has to be much faster. Juice climbing up the outside of other juice like a tsunami rolls over itself, and explains why short wicks work equally well providing liquid contact exists and why I can chain-vape a full tank in 1 shot on a ceramic wick -- the reload-flood is lighting fast. I'm about a couple days away from butchering up a Topfin. Although the wickhole on my third AGA is 4mm, the wick will not exceed 3.7mm, half a millimeter wider than 1/8. But I'm sure all that goes for any wick, and the prime principles they operate on, ceramic just much faster.

theres that 9/16th again.
 

martin777

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THESE are what I used on the SAME top fin stone. Had the Dremmel on say "medium" speed. Buzzed right through this stuff DRY!

THESE were the ones I started with. Used the whole tube up for just 2 cuts! Hard to get them centered on the screw also. I had to buy the EZ-Lock thing to get the larger/more better disks.
I used <2 to make 2 complete cuts! DRY!:)

note:
And yes--there is a LOT of dust!
 
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vapdivrr

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See I knew someone would know about this first hand, thanks for the info that re-confirms what I have read, I definitely will keep it wet and have water flowing so its clean as I holesaw my stix at the initial stage. Do you think it will leave me a rod like it does with marble using the 8mm holesaw?
------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------- i guess if people are able to dry cut this stuff then it is more like a ceramic then a stone. ceramic cuts very easily dry, but stone will break in funny ways if water is not used. elias it does seem like in dans video he had used a hole saw for that one piece, it looked all intact. just not sure if it can be hole sawed without water, without testing a piece of this stuff its hard to tell, just wouldnt think that any damage could be done by using water while coring a piece out, so why not.
 

vapdivrr

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and quite possibily a bigger fill hole.

tried my ac-9 larger cap hole and it wasnt very good, didnt make any difference in performance at all, the only thing that i noticed was a reduction of flavor. also the ac-9 probably has the biggest fill hole of any atty. i dont think its any of those things at all, it is either the space between wick & wick hole or the heat sink.
 

martin777

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See I knew someone would know about this first hand, thanks for the info that re-confirms what I have read, I definitely will keep it wet and have water flowing so its clean as I holesaw my stix at the initial stage. Do you think it will leave me a rod like it does with marble using the 8mm holesaw?
------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------- i guess if people are able to dry cut this stuff then it is more like a ceramic then a stone. ceramic cuts very easily dry, but stone will break in funny ways if water is not used. elias it does seem like in dans video he had used a hole saw for that one piece, it looked all intact. just not sure if it can be hole sawed without water, without testing a piece of this stuff its hard to tell, just wouldnt think that any damage could be done by using water while coring a piece out, so why not.

Coring this stuff (TopFin) would definitely have to be done with a LOT of water.
It would be tough to core a geometry like THIS. Hollow with 2 plastic end caps.
 
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vapdivrr

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Just venting......

My 3/32 wick is changing my juice color for some reason, I must have a wrap that is acting up. I hate to re-wrap.....but on a side note I just got some more in the mail.

I haven't heard of anyone else having this problem.....hmmmmm

their have been 2 or 3 times when unknowingly i have depressed the fire button for 10 or so seconds, after realizing that the atty was firing without me vaping on it, i did then notice what happens. the juice must burn on the wick creating a nastly taste that darkens the juice, this taste doesnt go away to easily. i had to change out the juice, dry burn wick, and then vape at least a ml of juice before the flavor got back to normal. is this what you are referring to?
 

vapdivrr

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deadperfect, i must say that you are very resiliant, it just seems like lately things havent been going your way, every time i see a post from you things are kicking your ..... most would of been back to ss mesh already, but glad you havent and love having you here in this thread. so its time for you to kick some .... (hopefully not mine) and get a great set-up going, i rooting for you!
 
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