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Okay...I have questions.
Actually, my new supplier has questions.
I'll just copy his email here and you experts can tell me what you think.
"Before we start to produce and ship samples, we would like to learn details more about our potential customer and the application (because we have to choose the right material):
- What is the application? To evaporate a liquid? If yes: Which kind of liquid? An insectiziser or a perfume or something else?
- What are the quantities you need: As samples and may be in the future for a serial production?
- What are tolerances on OD of of the wick? What on length? Typical tolerances for this wick would be: 2,8+/-0,15 (or +/-0,1, closer tolerance possible, but will be more expensive) mm x 40+/-0,5 mm. Does this work for you?
- Which grade of open porosity is required? Is 30% something that might work for your appliction?
- What is the maximum temperature in the application?
- Do you need a material with a high or low thermal conductivity?"
Let's see if your answers match mine.
Actually, my new supplier has questions.
I'll just copy his email here and you experts can tell me what you think.
"Before we start to produce and ship samples, we would like to learn details more about our potential customer and the application (because we have to choose the right material):
- What is the application? To evaporate a liquid? If yes: Which kind of liquid? An insectiziser or a perfume or something else?
- What are the quantities you need: As samples and may be in the future for a serial production?
- What are tolerances on OD of of the wick? What on length? Typical tolerances for this wick would be: 2,8+/-0,15 (or +/-0,1, closer tolerance possible, but will be more expensive) mm x 40+/-0,5 mm. Does this work for you?
- Which grade of open porosity is required? Is 30% something that might work for your appliction?
- What is the maximum temperature in the application?
- Do you need a material with a high or low thermal conductivity?"
Let's see if your answers match mine.
Not sure if its glass fused silica. The link that Elias provided states the material is mineral and it is sintered, I believe the Aircore Sandstone is just compressed. They look similar but may be different, we need Elias to do the flame test.
great idea the hacksaw! there was kind of a contradiction between buying a 6$ bubble stone and go get a 150$ dremel diamond saw to cut it!
just got a mini hack saw, bench vise ready.... lets go slice some topfin
edit: I don't know what hacksaw you have... man almost 15 mn to go thru a slice. 3 blades to do just that.
The topfin I got is 2" thick and solid, no hole inside like in Scubas vid !?!? did i get the wrong stone?
looks like the diamond blade is a must have for this one...just checked, a Dremel diamond disk is about 30 bucks... not as expensive as I thought...
anyways, no fish stix today ;(
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great idea the hacksaw! there was kind of a contradiction between buying a 6$ bubble stone and go get a 150$ dremel diamond saw to cut it!
just got a mini hack saw, bench vise ready.... lets go slice some topfin
edit: I don't know what hacksaw you have... man almost 15 mn to go thru a slice. 3 blades to do just that.
The topfin I got is 2" thick and solid, no hole inside like in Scubas vid !?!? did i get the wrong stone?
looks like the diamond blade is a must have for this one...
Not sure about the hacksaw method. I have not tried it yet. Maybe, if you wet the stone and go slow, you may have better luck.
With a $5 diamond wheel and a regular drill at low speed you can work your way through it easily. Just keep it wet and wash away the slurry.
Post a pic of that solid piece you got. All the ones I have seen have a hole through the length of the center.
my mistake, its peice of plastic at the center... it looked solid
the 5$ wheel sounds good... Now I get it, bubble or not, the stuff is really a stone!
and thats a wrap
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Im still waiting on his supplier to give me the details of the "mineral" used in the sintering process. but one thing for sure I will be taking it to the office and using the workshop to flame it up, this white puppy aint going to be used unless it is able to glow bright red hot and then not fall apart as I scrape it around on the edges of sharp scaples and bang it and prod it and generally give it a damn hard time in the lab, Im not going to inhale something that will loose a particles and end up in my lung growing something that looks like a culture in a petri dish.
After reading on air stones yes thats right some are compressed rather than sintered that being said its a whole new world out there and the materials used to produce ceramics etc...
View attachment 186832
my mistake, its peice of plastic at the center... it looked solid
the 5$ wheel sounds good... Now I get it, bubble or not, the stuff is really a stone!
and thats a wrap
View attachment 186845
looks like a super high resistance there, maybe about 20Ω
Did you guys see my questions a few posts up?
We can have these made exactly how we want.
I just need answers to a few questions posted above.
We can have these made exactly how we want.
I just need answers to a few questions posted above.
elias, have you ever compared the fish wicks to the fc-wicks there in your lab?
are you buying a bunch and then selling them to whoever? you mentioned your new supplier, who was your old supplier? maybe i am missing something here, but have some people here on this thread chipped in with some money for these wicks?
I can't talk for others, but me man, I'm the sheep... I follow the crowd.
it could be a good idea for a coop project if you manage to get a few answers...
behh behh... i'm behind
Vap, I need some advice. I just got mine in and cleaning them now. My first thought is they seem pretty ruff, I thought they would be smoother. I thought about taking some fine sandpaper and just lightly going over them but given how fragile they are and I don't want to break one before I even get a coil on it I'm not sure about doing that.
Should I just try them as is? They aren't that bad, just felt some jagged places as I run my finger over them.
Should I just try them as is? They aren't that bad, just felt some jagged places as I run my finger over them.
Im not an expert but collectively we are
1. tell them 40% vegetable glycerin, 60% propylene glycol, consistency is similar to aroma oils it should be able to wick like a wick for an oil lamp.
2. Sample quantities get a 100 so you can send some out several to each of the guys here we can all test them out, as far as future production 5000 per month I would say is a safe number to start with as the suppliers of vape gear would snap those up if they are the correct stuff
3. OD and Length... sheesh someone needs to help here as there would be 4 sizes I would say at this stage
4. Porosity will be dependent on question 1 wickablility (if there is such a word) anyone ? 30% sounds a little too coarse to me but I dont know? someone needs to help on this one.... ?????
5. max temp would have to be 1400c + allow for tolerance lets say 1600c but standard operating temperature I dont know what the liquid vaporizes at I think and dont quote me that it is around the 300c someone ran the numbers recently in a post in this thread from memory anyone care to add to this ?????
6. debatable, high thermal conductivity could stop the flow of liquid inside the wick or maybe it could thin the liquid I dont know.... I would say low conductivity would be ideal like the ceramic wicks we use now, hence why I can hold it in my hand and torch the other end without burning my fingers, but anyone care to elaborate on this????
Sorry I dont have much more than that... Im sure the guys here will...
No, I would love to get a hold of one and place it under the microscope so to speak and do a side by side comparison, but those guys dont deliver to australia, hence why I went after the white ones from ebay
Does anyone have any suggestions on how NOT to break the wick when tightening the positive post up? I was tightening it up and it pulled the wick towards it and broke it. One down, three to go......
Not sure how you are doing it, but I find that if you wrap the wire counter-clock wise around the positive post, tighten the nut should not pull the wire.
Spin the wick COUNTER clockwise on the positive post.
Thanks for the details, Elias.
Thanks for the details, Elias.
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