Ive worked with cotton in other ways other than vaping. I worked at a company that tested the flammability and igntion points of different materials.
Firmware Upgraded Smok xPro m80
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Errrrr... as I said (and everyone else) the m80 does not do proper temperature protection!! Read the rest of this thread!!!! Lowering the 'temperature' just reduces the power output according to a lookup table in firmware. It wont burn cotton at the lower 'temperature' but it wont make any vapour either!
check this out
he starts to see slight singed marks at around 480F but iy still doesnt ignite even at nearly 600F...
there are several examples. This is a hana modz box with an early version of the evolv DNA40 chip (that, obviously, does do temp protect)
hope this helps!
check this out
he starts to see slight singed marks at around 480F but iy still doesnt ignite even at nearly 600F...
there are several examples. This is a hana modz box with an early version of the evolv DNA40 chip (that, obviously, does do temp protect)
hope this helps!
btw, the autoignition temp of cotton fibre is nearly 770F which is around 410C i reckon! I think this is the temp at which it will spontaneously ignite in the absence of a spark or flame.
Hi All,
I wanted to post because my M80 arrived today and has V0007 firmware on it which i've not seen any mention of. Weird.
I wanted to post because my M80 arrived today and has V0007 firmware on it which i've not seen any mention of. Weird.
Thanks! Yeah someone posted in the other M80 thread about that. We have no idea what's new in it - there's, once again, no mention on Smok's website of the new firmware or any details of what has changed.
I ended up verifying it was a genuine device twice using the code because I couldn't understand why there was no mention of a v0007 on smok's site.
Ahh yeah - I'm afraid Smok are notorious at being pretty awful at communicating. It was exactly the same when the v6 was released; we had rumours and speculation that the new batch had a higher firmware, but no info from Smok confirming that or what had changed. That's what this thread was originally about. Then when the v6 did come out, we then didn't know if it would be an upgrade that owners of earlier devices (v4, v5) would be able to download and upgrade to - we strongly suspected no, but Smok never directly confirmed it. We only knew for certain a few weeks later when Smok released the v5-1 and v6-1 firmwares, and confirmed that v5 users couldn't upgrade past v5-1.
There's no new announcement now so it seems very likely that the v7 cannot be upgraded to from v6, meaning there's a chip change as well as firmware. What we still don't know is what has actually changed! I'm guessing nothing hugely significant at this stage.
Of course the whole thing does give the full lie to their idea of "user upgradeable firmware." Sure it is, just they almost never actually release a firmware that anyone can upgrade to
There's been two possible upgrades so far - v5 came out which v4 users could upgrade to, which removed some of the delay on the 'TC' feature. Then v5-1 and v6-1 were available for v5 and v6 users respectively, adding a specific "SHORT" warning when you have a short. Minorly useful but hardly groundbreaking.
Now all the signs are that they've changed the IC again, so anyone future updates will be unavailable for anyone except v7 users.
It's not that there's much I can think of that Smok could ever add that I'd want - it's hardly a feature-rich device. But it does annoy me when they screw everything up so much
(Had all this not come on the back of Fake TC, I might be more forgiving..)Anyway, sorry for ranting! And if you ever figure out what might be different in v7 versus what you hear of v6 devices, do let us know
Ordered a Smok XPRO M80 Plus from Gearbest on 4/29/2015 (41.99 and free shipping). Delivered 5/19/2015 ~ 21 Days later. First vape purchase was from Fasttech which took longer at 30 days (an Innokin VV 3.0 LOL) literally one year ago today. So getting the Smok M80 was worth waiting for especially since it also celebrates my 1 year anniversary from my last cigarette which is also quite a treat.
First thing I did was check the version, V0007. Came here to see what's different as Smok's website still has no info. Glad to hear I'm not the only one left wondering what's different.
Probably will never use TC because I've seen pbusardo's testing of it aka FIRE. Never even seen Nichrome or nickel coils in person to be honest. I'm cool with just using it for the Wattage Mode with my kanthal, until I learn more about Mech Mode and maybe try that. (If anyone cares to explain, I will read it.)
One thing I have noticed is that (so far only used and can comment on Wattage Mode), is that when the screen is on, there is a faint high pitched sound (sounds the loudest near the bottom). Only can be heard in a dead silent room. The sound of me vaping or even typing now is enough noise to cancel it out. Once the screen times out, or I power the device off, the sound does stop. Anyone else experience this, or could this be a defect? Maybe v0008 will fix this.
Another thing I've noticed. Because the ohms read to the hundredth, I can now truly see what my ohms are. Maybe my reasoning is skewed as I'll be comparing my findings with my Innokin VTR, but what I've noticed is as follows. The VTR reads my stock 1.8 Nautilus BVC coil (while using my 5ml Nautilus tank) @ 1.9 ohms. The Smok reads 1.81...sounds like the VTR may just round up, no biggie. But then when I screw on my 5ml Lemo with an "amateurly" built coil, the VTR reads it at 2.5 and the Smok says 2.40; where last time I checked does not round up. I've tested these readings a few times with each tank and ended up with the same results.
**Just emailed Smok about the noise I am hearing. Will post the response when I get it**
First thing I did was check the version, V0007. Came here to see what's different as Smok's website still has no info. Glad to hear I'm not the only one left wondering what's different.
Probably will never use TC because I've seen pbusardo's testing of it aka FIRE. Never even seen Nichrome or nickel coils in person to be honest. I'm cool with just using it for the Wattage Mode with my kanthal, until I learn more about Mech Mode and maybe try that. (If anyone cares to explain, I will read it.)
One thing I have noticed is that (so far only used and can comment on Wattage Mode), is that when the screen is on, there is a faint high pitched sound (sounds the loudest near the bottom). Only can be heard in a dead silent room. The sound of me vaping or even typing now is enough noise to cancel it out. Once the screen times out, or I power the device off, the sound does stop. Anyone else experience this, or could this be a defect? Maybe v0008 will fix this.
Another thing I've noticed. Because the ohms read to the hundredth, I can now truly see what my ohms are. Maybe my reasoning is skewed as I'll be comparing my findings with my Innokin VTR, but what I've noticed is as follows. The VTR reads my stock 1.8 Nautilus BVC coil (while using my 5ml Nautilus tank) @ 1.9 ohms. The Smok reads 1.81...sounds like the VTR may just round up, no biggie. But then when I screw on my 5ml Lemo with an "amateurly" built coil, the VTR reads it at 2.5 and the Smok says 2.40; where last time I checked does not round up. I've tested these readings a few times with each tank and ended up with the same results.
**Just emailed Smok about the noise I am hearing. Will post the response when I get it**
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@SacredNut - congrats on your new purchase, and especially the anniversary!
The M80 is a fine variable-wattage mod, giving you plenty of watts to play with for experimentation. Battery life is good too, and there's up to 2A charging so it's fast to charge. If they had released it without the TC feature at all, it would be more highly regarded than it is - it does the job fine, they just let things down a bit by lying about the fake-TC.
But if you didn't buy it for that, you'll do absolutely fine.
The VTR is quite a while before my time, but from what I can see I'd say it's one of the earlier, old-generation VW/VV mods. Tech has moved on a lot since then, so the M80 should be an upgrade in every respect.
High pitched noise: That's called Pulse Width Modulation. It's a method of firing DC electricity at a coil. I can't pretend to really understand the technical details, but it's not uncommon in mods. It works fine, just it has that sound that you noticed. Many people can't notice it - myself included (which now makes me a bit worried about my hearing!) It's not going to go away with future upgrades, it's just the nature of the way they chose to send power to the coil. But it's also nothing to worry about, so long as it doesn't bother you too much. If you google /search this forum for Pulse Width Modulation or PWM you'll find plenty more discussion - and pbusardo has mentioned and discussed it in a number of his videos. Perhaps one of his earlier ones will have a fuller description.
It's also referred to as the "rattlesnake sound", because it can sound like, well, a rattlesnake! Like a fluctuating hiss. I'm not sure if it always sounds like that or just sometimes.
Ohms: Yeah having a two-digit ohms reader is a great advance, that was one of the reasons I got my M80 as my second mod, after the iStick 50W. Ohms readings from mods are known to vary quite a bit. In this case, I would take your M80 to be accurate. It's much newer, and it reads with greater granularity. I found something similar when I compared my iSTick to my M80 - the M80 might read 0.51, the iStick would read 0.7. Usually the iStick was higher (by more than 0.1) but I think once or twice it was lower. You can never be sure how the mod is calculating and displaying that figure. As an example, the recent IPV4 and Yihi SX Mini M mods, both using recent Yihi chips, have a feature called Set Resistance which is used for (proper) TC. This displays the ohms to three decimal places. But the rest of the time the mod only displays two. What's then noticeable is that the two digit display is not a rounding of the three digit version, but a truncation. In other words, if Set Resistance shows 1.219, the main mod display will show 1.21 - it just cuts off the last digit. It's probably still using that third digit internally, but the display only shows two decimal places and for some reason they decided to truncate, not round.
I use that as an example of how the displays are not necessarily that logical in what they display. Perhaps when the M80 shows resistance as 0.51 and the VTR as 0.7, the VTR has calculated at 0.61 and then has an "always round up" rule .
Anyway the main point is, don't worry. Now that you have the M80 and it shows two decimals, I would use that as your reference point.
And a difference of 0.1 or even 0.2 is not going to make any noticeable difference in your vape. It matters for TC, but not normal wattage/power mode. At least one of the mods must be wrong, or they both might be, but they'll both vape fine. Problems with ohms come when the readings are many tens out, or if the reading keeps fluctuating - indicative of a loose connection somewhere within mod, atty or coil.
If you want to "break the tie", invest in a decent quality ohms reader. Actually they're all much of a muchness - mostly all $10 - $15, none with super guaranteed accuracy. Just be sure you get one that has a 510 connection in it for the ohms reading. I made that mistake - I got an EFest one that seemed popular (on loads of websites), but didn't look closely. When I got it home, I realised it had 2 x ego connections and a metal adapter to turn Ego to 510 for the ohms. That was total crap - when I screwed the adapter on to the ohms reader, then the atty onto the adapter, half the time trying to unscrew the atty took the adapter with it. So I tightened the adapter super hard. But then I got ohms readings that were all over the place - reading 1.5 when I knew the resistance was 0.5, stuff like that.
An ohms reader is definitely a useful thing to have: to get another reading of ohms if your mods disagree (and many use it as their standard reference point), and as a flat base on which to build attys/coils (and on which it doesn't matter too much if juice leaks.)
There's half a dozen or more on FastTech alone, and some have reviews confirming their accuracy - just check it has a built in 510 and you'll be fine. (In my case, I purchased a cheap spring-loaded 510 connection and have the ohms reader on my lengthy 'to do' project list, planning to take it apart and solder in the better 510 connection.)
Hope that helps - and hope you really enjoy the new mod!
The M80 is a fine variable-wattage mod, giving you plenty of watts to play with for experimentation. Battery life is good too, and there's up to 2A charging so it's fast to charge. If they had released it without the TC feature at all, it would be more highly regarded than it is - it does the job fine, they just let things down a bit by lying about the fake-TC.
But if you didn't buy it for that, you'll do absolutely fine.
The VTR is quite a while before my time, but from what I can see I'd say it's one of the earlier, old-generation VW/VV mods. Tech has moved on a lot since then, so the M80 should be an upgrade in every respect.
High pitched noise: That's called Pulse Width Modulation. It's a method of firing DC electricity at a coil. I can't pretend to really understand the technical details, but it's not uncommon in mods. It works fine, just it has that sound that you noticed. Many people can't notice it - myself included (which now makes me a bit worried about my hearing!) It's not going to go away with future upgrades, it's just the nature of the way they chose to send power to the coil. But it's also nothing to worry about, so long as it doesn't bother you too much. If you google /search this forum for Pulse Width Modulation or PWM you'll find plenty more discussion - and pbusardo has mentioned and discussed it in a number of his videos. Perhaps one of his earlier ones will have a fuller description.
It's also referred to as the "rattlesnake sound", because it can sound like, well, a rattlesnake! Like a fluctuating hiss. I'm not sure if it always sounds like that or just sometimes.
Ohms: Yeah having a two-digit ohms reader is a great advance, that was one of the reasons I got my M80 as my second mod, after the iStick 50W. Ohms readings from mods are known to vary quite a bit. In this case, I would take your M80 to be accurate. It's much newer, and it reads with greater granularity. I found something similar when I compared my iSTick to my M80 - the M80 might read 0.51, the iStick would read 0.7. Usually the iStick was higher (by more than 0.1) but I think once or twice it was lower. You can never be sure how the mod is calculating and displaying that figure. As an example, the recent IPV4 and Yihi SX Mini M mods, both using recent Yihi chips, have a feature called Set Resistance which is used for (proper) TC. This displays the ohms to three decimal places. But the rest of the time the mod only displays two. What's then noticeable is that the two digit display is not a rounding of the three digit version, but a truncation. In other words, if Set Resistance shows 1.219, the main mod display will show 1.21 - it just cuts off the last digit. It's probably still using that third digit internally, but the display only shows two decimal places and for some reason they decided to truncate, not round.
I use that as an example of how the displays are not necessarily that logical in what they display. Perhaps when the M80 shows resistance as 0.51 and the VTR as 0.7, the VTR has calculated at 0.61 and then has an "always round up" rule .
Anyway the main point is, don't worry. Now that you have the M80 and it shows two decimals, I would use that as your reference point.
And a difference of 0.1 or even 0.2 is not going to make any noticeable difference in your vape. It matters for TC, but not normal wattage/power mode. At least one of the mods must be wrong, or they both might be, but they'll both vape fine. Problems with ohms come when the readings are many tens out, or if the reading keeps fluctuating - indicative of a loose connection somewhere within mod, atty or coil.
If you want to "break the tie", invest in a decent quality ohms reader. Actually they're all much of a muchness - mostly all $10 - $15, none with super guaranteed accuracy. Just be sure you get one that has a 510 connection in it for the ohms reading. I made that mistake - I got an EFest one that seemed popular (on loads of websites), but didn't look closely. When I got it home, I realised it had 2 x ego connections and a metal adapter to turn Ego to 510 for the ohms. That was total crap - when I screwed the adapter on to the ohms reader, then the atty onto the adapter, half the time trying to unscrew the atty took the adapter with it. So I tightened the adapter super hard. But then I got ohms readings that were all over the place - reading 1.5 when I knew the resistance was 0.5, stuff like that.
An ohms reader is definitely a useful thing to have: to get another reading of ohms if your mods disagree (and many use it as their standard reference point), and as a flat base on which to build attys/coils (and on which it doesn't matter too much if juice leaks.)
There's half a dozen or more on FastTech alone, and some have reviews confirming their accuracy - just check it has a built in 510 and you'll be fine. (In my case, I purchased a cheap spring-loaded 510 connection and have the ohms reader on my lengthy 'to do' project list, planning to take it apart and solder in the better 510 connection.)
Hope that helps - and hope you really enjoy the new mod!
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I hope this is all it is and I wasted my time sending Smok an email about it, but I do want to confirm one thing with you. This sound is present when the device is NOT being fired. Just sitting on the counter with the screen on waiting for me to vape it. "a method of firing DC current to a coil" - Is this happening when I'm not using/holding down the vape button?! Maybe the sound also is present when its firing and change pitch/hiss and I just cant hear it because its so faint; quieter than the sound of rushing air thru the tank. If I only heard it when firing the device, I would believe and maybe understand that its just PWM, but the fact the sound is present when not in "use" makes me think this sound is different.
The sound never changes pitch as it sits there idle by the way. Maybe it does when the fire button is pressed, but unfortunately (or maybe fortunately), it can't be heard when firing to compare the pitch.
And for whats it's worth. When my tank is unscrewed (completely off the M80) and I turn the screen on, the sound is still there.
If you can hear the noise between draws then it could be the display. They have a small boost power supply in them called a "charge pump" that brings the lower voltage from the cells up to the approximately 7.5V the display needs to operate. The small capacitors it uses can actually "sing" at audible frequencies under certain conditions.
[edit] The board has capacitors for the display that can sing too. They would be located directly next to where the tail of the display connects to the board. Not sure if they are the ones singing here but that type of capacitor ("ceramic") can sing.
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Sounds believable mate. "Certain conditions" meaning being younger than 30. A gift and a curse I guess
** Update from Smok Email** = "Update can not fix the issue, we provide 3 months warranty to all our wholesalers, pls try to contact your vendor for a new replacement .Thanks!"
Response was 58 minutes later by the way - I emailed to quality@smok......
Response was 58 minutes later by the way - I emailed to quality@smok......
I replied back with "Talking about the issue on an Ecig forum - some people were talking about the noise either being from Pulse Width Modulation, or a small boost power supply that goes to the display to power it. Are you saying that the noise I am hearing between draws is an abnormal defect and that I should seek a replacement?"
And received "Have been confirmed, no worries about that, it's the electric current sound, and do not affect the vaping and others.Thanks!"
And received "Have been confirmed, no worries about that, it's the electric current sound, and do not affect the vaping and others.Thanks!"
Lucky "us" I guess..I wonder what else is different, I have noticed that upon resetting the device, the last watt setting is still the same. It doesn't get reset back to 80 like previous XPRO owners have commented about. Not sure if this was fixed before the 0007, but atleast is fixed now.
Anyone have a decent idea on the range of charging cycles that can be done before the battery is shot. I do believe like the majority that by the time it does give out, I will have a bigger (smaller) better model. But am still curious on the numbers.
Anyone have a decent idea on the range of charging cycles that can be done before the battery is shot. I do believe like the majority that by the time it does give out, I will have a bigger (smaller) better model. But am still curious on the numbers.
No idea on cycles. I assumed it would be measured in months, perhaps 6 months. You can probably increase the life by:
The M80 contains 2 x standard 18650 batteries. They're designed to be non-user-replaceable, but they're fairly easy to access - well , at least the bottom of them. I've not seen any videos that's gone further to reveal the whole batteries. It might be a bit of a soldering job to switch them out for different ones, but it is at least possible.
- re-charging the batteries before you get to Weak Battery
- when there's at least 30% remaining, ideally higher
- some people with replaceable battery mods say they swap them out at 50%
- always doing a complete charge from there to full
- limiting yourself to 1A charging despite it supporting 2A.
The M80 contains 2 x standard 18650 batteries. They're designed to be non-user-replaceable, but they're fairly easy to access - well , at least the bottom of them. I've not seen any videos that's gone further to reveal the whole batteries. It might be a bit of a soldering job to switch them out for different ones, but it is at least possible.
I looked up the batteries and the wholesaler state approx 300 cycles
This poses more questions then it answers, i.e 300 till completely dead, or to the point where you would consider soldering in new ones.
One thing i noticed is the chip gives very fast charging up to about 50% then slows drastically, the last 10% might take 1 hour. A lot of good chargers will slow the charge rate over 4v since its supposed to be good for the cells.
This poses more questions then it answers, i.e 300 till completely dead, or to the point where you would consider soldering in new ones.
One thing i noticed is the chip gives very fast charging up to about 50% then slows drastically, the last 10% might take 1 hour. A lot of good chargers will slow the charge rate over 4v since its supposed to be good for the cells.
End-of-life for a cell is typically specified as the point where its capacity has dropped to 80% of its nominal rating. Some datasheets will give a spec for the (inevitable) increase in internal resistance too.
The cell isn't dead at this point. It's been degrading a little bit since day one for each cycle it experiences. The 80% point is just selected because that's about where most people really start to notice the capacity loss and get angry at their battery/device.
You can choose to replace your cells after 300 cycles but you can often go beyond that quite a bit if you're willing to accept shorter and shorter times before the cell needs to be recharged. Don't try to stretch that out a lot more though if you're pushing the cells hard . The internal resistance increases as the cells degrade and that increases cell heating. Over time that can start to affect the safety of your setup. Best to replace them when you really start to notice that they require charging sooner and sooner.
A note regarding cycle life...it is highly dependent on the charging voltage and current, discharge voltage and current, and how hot the cell gets. If you're drawing 20A from a cell consistently you might only get 100 cycles before you hit that 80% and really start to notice it needs charging more often. Charging to a high voltage or draining the cell to a low voltage repeatedly will shorten the cycle life too.
The cell isn't dead at this point. It's been degrading a little bit since day one for each cycle it experiences. The 80% point is just selected because that's about where most people really start to notice the capacity loss and get angry at their battery/device.
You can choose to replace your cells after 300 cycles but you can often go beyond that quite a bit if you're willing to accept shorter and shorter times before the cell needs to be recharged. Don't try to stretch that out a lot more though if you're pushing the cells hard . The internal resistance increases as the cells degrade and that increases cell heating. Over time that can start to affect the safety of your setup. Best to replace them when you really start to notice that they require charging sooner and sooner.
A note regarding cycle life...it is highly dependent on the charging voltage and current, discharge voltage and current, and how hot the cell gets. If you're drawing 20A from a cell consistently you might only get 100 cycles before you hit that 80% and really start to notice it needs charging more often. Charging to a high voltage or draining the cell to a low voltage repeatedly will shorten the cycle life too.
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Cycle life can range from 50 to 500, or even higher. It can be affected by several things...
- cell temperature, the less time they spend being warm/hot, the better. Don't freeze them either.
- charging voltage, never exceed the recommended max for the cell and back off 0.1V-0.15V for extended life.
- discharge voltage, never drop below the recommended min for the cell, keep above 3.0V for sure and even 3.2V for extended life.
- discharge current, the lower the better to keep the cell from heating up.
- charge current, the slower the better, always slow charge overdischarged cells until they are above at least 2.8V.
- storage, don't freeze them and don't keep them in a hot place.
- storage voltage, don't always keep your cells fully charged if you're not going to use them for a while, weeks or more. The higher the voltage the faster they self-degrade. Storing them at half-charge and giving them a little "booster" charge every couple of months will extend their life if you're not using them for a long time. Otherwise, don't sweat it if you keep them fully charged all the time. It's often just not worth the inconvenience to not keep them fully charged.
Typically, I see cells lasting 150-300 cycles. But, as detailed above, that number can change significantly depending on how you treat your cells! As a comparison, most of my Li cells typically last 4-5 years (several hundred cycles).
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