first coil on an RSST (pics)

[vapdivrr]

also with a mech mod I would definitely get a multi meter or one of those resistance checkers that you insert the atty in to see the resistances. once the atty is coiled you insert it into the checker, if the resistance is stable then you can install on mech.

 

[sawtoothscream]

just built my first today. Got really lucky, the all glowed perfect and had no hotspots without any fiddling around. Now I just have to drill out the little hole it come with, that sucker is just about useless. my build came out to .9 with 28

 

[bizzy511]

humpstyles, have you by any chance tried a micro coil? Ever since I started using micros with cotton, it's like I never have problems with hotspots anymore. Also, one thing that helped me with hot spots is when wrapping the legs to the post, I like to wrap from the inside, instead of the outside. I hope this picture helps explain what I mean. It seems to give me the same distance from both legs. I'm rebuilding my coil now. This is the old coil, but without the cotton you can see how the legs are wrapped from the inside instead of the outside. The picture without the cotton looks a little off since I am removing it, but normally the coil is directly over the wick hole.

 

[humpstyles]

vapdivr:

Thank you for your insight. Is there a telltale way to determine if the wick has successfully been ox'd? I can see when you're pulsing a mech, the hotspots will die down like you said, but if I am ox'ing it with a torch before installing on a regulated device, how can I tell?
Also, like I said, it was my last tank of juice that I was trying to savor (don't have syringes either, need to pick some up) and I just kinda winged it. Next time, either on the eVic or a mech, I'll keep it empty and refer back to your post. I already own a multimeter ($6 from Harbor Freight), but haven't checked resistance on anything yet since my eVic will do that to the tenth decimal place.

sawtooth:

That's awesome, congrats. I am so envious of those who just jump into mech mods. I feel like I needed to get an RBA first and master it's ways before buying a mech to use. Then again, I do plan on snagging a DNA20 with my tax return.

bizzy:

If you read through the entire thread, I shortly gave up on mesh and tried a cotton build. I rolled it on a 5/64", which personally I think was way too small. It looks like you used something the same diameter as the wick hole, which (correct me if I'm wrong), might help wick better as long as it's not too tight in there. Also, yea, I've started pinning the legs down on the insides instead of the outsides which seems to help the flexibility and maneuverability portion of getting the coil in the right place.

 

[sawtoothscream]

drilled my holes ot 1/16 and it was ok, went to 5/64 and like that more. SS mesh wise im not impressed, getting no flavor from it.

going to go to a micro/ cotton set up.

 

[sawtoothscream]

I have been at mech for half a yr now, been building my dripper for awhile, those are easy. This RSST is annoying. mesh sucked even though it fired nice, no flavor.

just tried the cotton, made a 1ohm micro on a 5/64, again weak taste and more burn, redid it with less cotton and still bad results, going to give it a third shot then idk, guess ill try steel rope sleeved with eko wool. IDk first time using a rba, maybe im just to use to the good vape i get off the RDA.

How did your cotton build taste?

 

[sawtoothscream]

Wow im dumb lol. After trying to figure out why its not wicking right with the micro it hit me, the plug for the fill hole. Took that out and rewicked it and bam, we have lift off. Wicking great now, flavor is there and its not burning so far. Tip the mod take a drag or two, flip mod take a drag or two.

 

[humpstyles]

Wow im dumb lol. After trying to figure out why its not wicking right with the micro it hit me, the plug for the fill hole. Took that out and rewicked it and bam, we have lift off. Wicking great now, flavor is there and its not burning so far. Tip the mod take a drag or two, flip mod take a drag or two.

Boom, there you go. TBH, I haven't tried a cotton build with the fillhole plug out. I kept it in because I tend to be a tidy person; guess it doesn't exactly matter in this case.

I'm currently just surviving on some bottom coil EVODs I rewicked with cotton until my huge order of juice comes in; then I'm back to work on this RSST.

 

[sawtoothscream]

ya this set up is awesome now, soaked wick and such good flavor. dripper taste

going to have to throws dauls back into my trident for when I feel like blasting big old clouds.

 

[bikeface]

something I found with mesh is I need to burn it off REALLY well after rolling it because I end up getting a lot of dead skin on it from the process of twisting and rolling with my calloused fingers(that sounds weird, I know). For the first few times I built my kraken, I couldn't figure out what the off taste was until I saw someone mention it in the forums. Also, I don't quench my mesh after torching, it seems to give it a crappy, metallic taste. Just my .

 

[vapdivrr]

vapdivr:

Thank you for your insight. Is there a telltale way to determine if the wick has successfully been ox'd? I can see when you're pulsing a mech, the hotspots will die down like you said, but if I am ox'ing it with a torch before installing on a regulated device, how can I tell?
Also, like I said, it was my last tank of juice that I was trying to savor (don't have syringes either, need to pick some up) and I just kinda winged it. Next time, either on the eVic or a mech, I'll keep it empty and refer back to your post. I already own a multimeter ($6 from Harbor Freight), but haven't checked resistance on anything yet since my eVic will do that to the tenth decimal place.

sawtooth:

That's awesome, congrats. I am so envious of those who just jump into mech mods. I feel like I needed to get an RBA first and master it's ways before buying a mech to use. Then again, I do plan on snagging a DNA20 with my tax return.

bizzy:

If you read through the entire thread, I shortly gave up on mesh and tried a cotton build. I rolled it on a 5/64", which personally I think was way too small. It looks like you used something the same diameter as the wick hole, which (correct me if I'm wrong), might help wick better as long as it's not too tight in there. Also, yea, I've started pinning the legs down on the insides instead of the outsides which seems to help the flexibility and maneuverability portion of getting the coil in the right place.

just a couple other things just incase you haven't done them, for one are you folding a crease on the mesh? after you cut your mesh and before you roll it up fold about a 1/8th flap. this is so the freyed ends don't touch the wire. im sure your doing this already but just incase. also i have had the best results with fill hole open. all i can say about knowing if the wick is ox enough is that you don't want it charred or really blk. what i used to do in the past was to torch the mesh before rolling just once. just a quick torch all over. this made it possible to roll the mesh up tightly so it wasn't springy. i then torched the wick 3x's, quenching after each time. i never did juice burns however. i held the wick with tweezers and held the torch, i held the torch about an inch away from wick and once the wick was glowing i moved the torch back and forth. i thought of the wick as quarters, each quarter i spent about 10 seconds of going back and forth. after the 10 sec i turned the wick over to the next quarter. once all 4 quarters were done i quenched. so i guess one session took about 40 seconds. i did this 3x's. i also didn't worry about the section under the tweezers, for this side was in the tank. actually the part of the wick that's in the juice doesn't need to be ox but i kind of did it anyways sometimes in case i flipped over the wick to use that side. i also think the amount of oxidation has to do with how much mesh you use. if someone is using only an in or 2 then they might not want to do as much oxidation. in my set ups, i used to use 500 mesh, my wire choice was between 26g and 28g, my resistances were low, between .6 to .8 , with these low resistances i used to use a lot of mesh. i could get well over 3inches in my wicks which used to work really good. what wire gauge are you using? did i read 28g? 28g is a great wire but you need to balance the amount of wraps. i would say between 4 to 5 wraps regardless of wire gauge. so if you have 28g wire but need 6 wraps to get to a resistance in which your mod can handle then go with 30g. i don't own an evic but do have a provari that i use sometimes. the provari has a 3.5 amp limit so i prefer a resistance of about 1.3Ω, at this resistance i can get the most from the provari. i can get the 3.5amps and max voltage of about 15 watts at around 4.5v. if i had a resistance of lets say 1.0Ω i could only get about 3.5v (because of the amp limit) and at 3.5v the wattage would only be about 12 watts. so with the evic there is a resistance that would get you the most from it. i think this resistance would be in the 1.8 range. at this resistance 30g wire is needed. now if you aren't bothered by max wattage of the device then non of this matters.

 

[Tintreach]

Mesh works great when you get it right. Cotton and silica are good as well. But I think I am enjoying the SS cable with XC-118 sleeve the best so far.

I vape myself silly on this and for some reason my RSST gets more action now than my Kayfun or other gennies.

Keep at it and you'll get it right. I think the RSST is probably one of the best bang for the buck attys around with a little modding. Not to mention it's just a slick but simple looking atty.

 

[cnagle]

I just got mine the other day. I stabbed the fill plug with an 18 ga needle. A 5/64" microcoil with cotton yarn wicks like a boss with the plug in.

 

[wedoitall]

Lots of good info here . Will help me out on my first genny tonight


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