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I do not care for the orings this came with. I don't like the black ones and would prefer silicon for the glass seals. The oring they use on top of the wick is the wrong size and you shouldn't have to stretch it that much. The other ones seam fine.
I agree about oring size. I've already snapped one trying to get the oring back over the wick. A trip to lowes is probably in the making. Thanks for the insight about not tightening too hard and still getting a proper seal.
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Pulling cotton through a pre coiled wire already set up in the base is doing the trick right now. Oring over the wick has cured all leaks. I will probably use less cotton next time, because its not wicking SUPER fast like other the other cotton wicked setups I have, but its still a great vape.
From RIGHT to LEFT (sorry about order), pre coiled, test fire (to make sure insulator wasn't getting all melted), pulled cotton and laid oring over top to hold wick down, trimmed wick with cap on.
The oring used over the wick? Is that part of the supplies?
My V1 is sitting in a mail box at home.
thx
Ok... a quick report.
Microcoil on 1/16th drill bit, 28awg, about 6 wraps I think (0.9 ohms). I did the "reverse wrap", holding the drill bit in my right hand and wrapping clockwise with my left hand. This was a pain, as I'm highly right-handed. But, end result was the coil is on the TOP when put on the posts, as far away from that little grommet as I could get. Did the microcoil heat/plier to ensure full touching.
Pulled a little cotton from a cotton ball through it... basically just like craftmath did (would have taken pictures, but can't find my decent camera and my phone doesn't do macro photos well).
Cut the cotton flush with the outside of the housing with nail clippers. Maybe a little too close... hmm. Primed the wick with some juice (one of my all-day vapes so that I'm familiar with the flavor).
Broke the o-ring putting it back on. Grabbed a little larger diamter nitrile oring from my Habor Freight oring kit. I did stretch it so that it would thin out. Wasn't as thin as the stock one, so the chimney doesn't screw down as far and the tank topper sits up a little out of the tank, but the top oring is still sealed. What the heck... screwed the Fogger top down and popped in a drip tip.
First few pulls were really amazing... intense flavor and lots of vapor (even better than my Gennies). Wow.
Vaped on it for a while, did a Mark Todd and looked at it in disbelief... "That's a really good vape!" Sat it down, and came up here to type this post.
Thought: "Let me check it now before I claim success."
Well, it flooded while I was away, but still producing vapor and the flavor is still amazing.
I think I did cut the cotton too close to the outside of the housing. Maybe leave 1/2mm or so and see if that seals things up better.
Back to it.
Microcoil on 1/16th drill bit, 28awg, about 6 wraps I think (0.9 ohms). I did the "reverse wrap", holding the drill bit in my right hand and wrapping clockwise with my left hand. This was a pain, as I'm highly right-handed. But, end result was the coil is on the TOP when put on the posts, as far away from that little grommet as I could get. Did the microcoil heat/plier to ensure full touching.
Pulled a little cotton from a cotton ball through it... basically just like craftmath did (would have taken pictures, but can't find my decent camera and my phone doesn't do macro photos well).
Cut the cotton flush with the outside of the housing with nail clippers. Maybe a little too close... hmm. Primed the wick with some juice (one of my all-day vapes so that I'm familiar with the flavor).
Broke the o-ring putting it back on. Grabbed a little larger diamter nitrile oring from my Habor Freight oring kit. I did stretch it so that it would thin out. Wasn't as thin as the stock one, so the chimney doesn't screw down as far and the tank topper sits up a little out of the tank, but the top oring is still sealed. What the heck... screwed the Fogger top down and popped in a drip tip.
First few pulls were really amazing... intense flavor and lots of vapor (even better than my Gennies). Wow.
Vaped on it for a while, did a Mark Todd and looked at it in disbelief... "That's a really good vape!" Sat it down, and came up here to type this post.
Thought: "Let me check it now before I claim success."
Well, it flooded while I was away, but still producing vapor and the flavor is still amazing.
I think I did cut the cotton too close to the outside of the housing. Maybe leave 1/2mm or so and see if that seals things up better.
Back to it.
Anyone have a list of O Ring sizes this puppy takes?
Would be nice to order a few extra's, and maybe the glow in the dark ones for those relaxing evening vapes while watching the boob tube.
Would be nice to order a few extra's, and maybe the glow in the dark ones for those relaxing evening vapes while watching the boob tube.
Does it really matter which direction or hand your wrapping with? Unless I am missing something ... If the legs are on the top of the coil, just flip the coil, and the legs with be on the bottom.
Thanks...the fun begins tonight.
Now, if I can only find organic cotton. Called everywhere and anywhere...nothing!
I keep wondering the same thing. The only time I see a reverse grip being necessary is when the legs are coming off of opposite sides of the coil. However, on this device the legs need to come off of the same side so a flip should work just fine.
In cases where you need a reverse wrap you still don't have to hold with your right and wrap with your left, you could hold with your left and start the wire on the side of the coil away from you and then pull it over the top toward you and do a revers wrap with your right hand that way. Then again I am actually ambidextrous so I can get 'er done both way.
Anyone know of a video that shows a good coil with the wraps coming off the same side of the coil? Not one on top and one on the bottom. IE: I mean two legs exiting the top or bottom of the coil. The only way i can see this as possible is to put a bend in the wire halfway through wrapping, and then wrapping in the opposite direction.
Reason I prefer reverse wrap on this is because I wanted the tails on top close to the term points and I wanted the legs as short as possible. Due to term pin orientation in respect to the way the wick channel is aligned, reverse wrapping solved both criteria. Whatever works for you is fine. I just like to detail my steps so others can repeat if they want. I am by no means an expert at any of this stuff. This pic should show what I am trying to describe.
Not to derail the thread - or perhaps re-rail - but I had just finished off this morning's tank in the Fogger all ready to take it back apart and give it a good once over, so I take a pull off my RSST just to get re-acquainted and BAM.... I just went ahead and refilled the sucker. Wasn't even all that conscious of what I was doing: Mouth wants Fogger back. Mouth does not appreciate sudden switch to weakly-sauced RSST vapor. And there you have it.
As a topically apt aside, even with the tiny silicone gasket underneath its bottom positive battery contact pin, the Fogger still sometimes shorts and microwaves my battery. I unravel everything, back the screw out, reposition that itty-bitty-intra-atomizer-prophylactic, rescrew it all back together with a cooler batt and now we're all friends again. Like nothing even remotely face destroying was ever nigh.
Am I going insane?
As a topically apt aside, even with the tiny silicone gasket underneath its bottom positive battery contact pin, the Fogger still sometimes shorts and microwaves my battery. I unravel everything, back the screw out, reposition that itty-bitty-intra-atomizer-prophylactic, rescrew it all back together with a cooler batt and now we're all friends again. Like nothing even remotely face destroying was ever nigh.
Am I going insane?
Every now and again I still go back to the mouth-maligned RSST. All I can say is it kinda tastes like burnt pickle. Again, I might be going insane so -- who knows.
Furthermore, I was indeed all ready to fancy up the aforementioned RSST with a new fangled brass hat and silver-plated center post and maybe even a titanium tip. But now I kind of wish it was a burnt pickle. Then I could chew it up and swallow it and crap it out and get some sort of emotional closure. Circle of life and whatnot.
Ahwell.
Furthermore, I was indeed all ready to fancy up the aforementioned RSST with a new fangled brass hat and silver-plated center post and maybe even a titanium tip. But now I kind of wish it was a burnt pickle. Then I could chew it up and swallow it and crap it out and get some sort of emotional closure. Circle of life and whatnot.
Ahwell.
Guys,
Found this in another thread.
So what if we tucked a loose piece of cotton under the coil on the fogger, right on top of the grommet. The extra juice + cotton should keep it cool and stop it from possibly melting.
Obviously it would have to be loose enough to prevent choking off the airflow.
Just an idea ...
GoW
Found this in another thread.
So what if we tucked a loose piece of cotton under the coil on the fogger, right on top of the grommet. The extra juice + cotton should keep it cool and stop it from possibly melting.
Obviously it would have to be loose enough to prevent choking off the airflow.
Just an idea ...
GoW
I had thought of doing that with silica mesh. I want to get away from cotton so I can dry burn my coils clean with the wick in place.
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