when it comes time to dry burn i'm going to put a small piece of tinfoil under the coil, that should protect the grommet i think.
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wow...what a mess.
Unregistered suppliers
Links again and again to off site COOPS...
Wow - I just spent an hour and a half in here cleaning stuff up.
I would hate to see this thread get closed, so please, help keep it to the rules.
Thank you
Unregistered suppliers
Links again and again to off site COOPS...
Wow - I just spent an hour and a half in here cleaning stuff up.
I would hate to see this thread get closed, so please, help keep it to the rules.
Thank you
This will help :
All members can report posts to be looked at with the report triangle at the bottom of each post.
It goes to a central area that all staff can see.
We really rely on it due to the size of the forum - we just are not able to read every post in every thread.
All members can report posts to be looked at with the report triangle at the bottom of each post.
It goes to a central area that all staff can see.
We really rely on it due to the size of the forum - we just are not able to read every post in every thread.
Well I am very sorry for posting for sale intentions prior to educating myself of the rules. 
In regards to cotton, I'm not ok with a delicate wick buried in this. Something goes wrong and you're dumping out the juice. SS mesh has been great for me but I still taste mesh like usual. What else is there wick wise?
In regards to cotton, I'm not ok with a delicate wick buried in this. Something goes wrong and you're dumping out the juice. SS mesh has been great for me but I still taste mesh like usual. What else is there wick wise?
Well I am very sorry for posting for sale intentions prior to educating myself of the rules.
In regards to cotton, I'm not ok with a delicate wick buried in this. Something goes wrong and you're dumping out the juice. SS mesh has been great for me but I still taste mesh like usual. What else is there wick wise?
I am not sure why you would have to dump the juice out. The top should still be sealed in the top of the tank. Couldn't you just remove the cover, turn it upside down and pull the bottom off to work on it if needed?
I am not advocating for putting cotton on the bottom, just curious if I am right about being able to work on it without dumping the juice.
EDIT: Never mind, I know why. Pulling the bottom out will pull the whole center post out. Unless you can somehow unscrew the bottom leaving that part in.
EDIT 2: I guess you could pull the top off and pour the juice into a cup of some sort and then reuse it. Still a bit of a pain but at least it's not wasted.
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Well I am very sorry for posting for sale intentions prior to educating myself of the rules.
In regards to cotton, I'm not ok with a delicate wick buried in this. Something goes wrong and you're dumping out the juice. SS mesh has been great for me but I still taste mesh like usual. What else is there wick wise?
Guys,
I am not advocating for using the cotton for a wick, actually I am not advocating against it. What I am advocating is kludging up some kind of heat shield, sort of like the one that protects the bottom of your car from the muffler. We just need the heat shield to keep the heat from the coil+wick above it from overly heating the insulator at the bottom of the chamber.
So one of two things:
A metal heat shield with air holes (400 or 500 SS Mesh), just a small circle of it or even a strip of it laid over top of the insulator.
-or-
Something that is wet that will keep the liquid as a barrier to keep the insulator cool. I figured cotton, or a chunk of silica. I was leaning towards cotton at first since it would be easier to suck through, than the more solid silica piece. It also has the added benefit of helping capture any excess juice from possible flooding.
But whichever wick you use, steel rope, ss mesh, silica, ekowool, cotton the principle remains the same. A heat sink is needed to protect the insulator.
I think SS mesh would be a bad idea. If that metal heats up it might cook the insulator worse. Also since that is also the air flow hole, it should NOT be wet. Actually now that I think about it, cotton put there might actually burn.
Scott,
I am just spitballing idea's here ...
You bring up very valid points, but with SS mesh would it burn any more than it would with the coils having unfettered access to the insulator?
Note: I don't have mine yet and it is on order from Vape Toy. Just waiting for it to arrive or I would snap some pics.
Legend:
Coil
||
Heat radiating
---->
Insulator [
Deflector shield
( Heat sink
Without My idea: = Greater Risk as the insulator is fully exposed.
||----> [
With My idea: = Less Risk as the insulator is shielded partially by SOMETHING.
|| ---->( [
First:
Yes it does. I wanted the coil to point UP (away from the grommet). If the build area is a clock, the attachment screws are at 10 o'clock and at 4 o'clock, with the slots at 3 and 9. The only way I can figure to have the coil pointing up is to wrap with your left hand. When I did it my normal way, the coil pointed down.
Now, a quick update on my build, round 2, with a strange result.
Rewicked the microcoil with cotton, but didn't trim so closely, leaving more cotton (maybe 1mm) outside of the well this time.
Added tank (which was a little tricky, as the cotton kept getting pinched in the botton oring), filled about half way, and vaped. Wow again. Working very, very well. Amazing flavor and vapor (as pbusardo says, "A fully saturated vape"). Wicking really well... a little gurgling if I let it sit for 10-15 minutes, but it clears on it's own after the first drag. Much better than my first attempt, where I trimmed the cotton wick too short and ended up with major flooding.
I had to run an errand, so I topped it off and left the PV behind for an hour or so. I wanted to see if that would cause flooding.
When I returned, I expected that I would have a little flooding. Actually, I got a surprise... a horrible dry hit.
Dry hit? It's been soaking in eliquid for an hour... how can it now be DRY?
I do notice that the improvised o-ring I installed under the chimney, which squishes out a bit when I tighten down the chimney, does look sort of close to the inside wall of the tank. Eliquid is getting to the wicks... so not sure if this is just a straw to grab or what. I will go back to the stock oring to rule it in or out, but...
Any ideas on why cotton, soaking in elquid for an hour, would suddenly go dry like this?
I'm determined to find a consistent build on this thing, because the vape is really quite outstanding when it works ("Mouth wants Fogger back"... yep!)
Yes it does. I wanted the coil to point UP (away from the grommet). If the build area is a clock, the attachment screws are at 10 o'clock and at 4 o'clock, with the slots at 3 and 9. The only way I can figure to have the coil pointing up is to wrap with your left hand. When I did it my normal way, the coil pointed down.
Now, a quick update on my build, round 2, with a strange result.
Rewicked the microcoil with cotton, but didn't trim so closely, leaving more cotton (maybe 1mm) outside of the well this time.
Added tank (which was a little tricky, as the cotton kept getting pinched in the botton oring), filled about half way, and vaped. Wow again. Working very, very well. Amazing flavor and vapor (as pbusardo says, "A fully saturated vape"). Wicking really well... a little gurgling if I let it sit for 10-15 minutes, but it clears on it's own after the first drag. Much better than my first attempt, where I trimmed the cotton wick too short and ended up with major flooding.
I had to run an errand, so I topped it off and left the PV behind for an hour or so. I wanted to see if that would cause flooding.
When I returned, I expected that I would have a little flooding. Actually, I got a surprise... a horrible dry hit.
Dry hit? It's been soaking in eliquid for an hour... how can it now be DRY?
I do notice that the improvised o-ring I installed under the chimney, which squishes out a bit when I tighten down the chimney, does look sort of close to the inside wall of the tank. Eliquid is getting to the wicks... so not sure if this is just a straw to grab or what. I will go back to the stock oring to rule it in or out, but...
Any ideas on why cotton, soaking in elquid for an hour, would suddenly go dry like this?
I'm determined to find a consistent build on this thing, because the vape is really quite outstanding when it works ("Mouth wants Fogger back"... yep!)
Only time I can think of that would put the insulator at risk to heat damage is during a dry burn. You could toss a couple of strains of silica to protect it while you burn it off. I changed flavors this morning and dry burned with no ill effects. During normal firing air flow moves away from insulator and cools the coil. .
I have V1 but I was able to get it working well after messing with it.
I burnt the insulator right off the bat checking the coil that came in it for hot spots. I feel this is a part that really needs to be there to keep the center post/air tube from grounding out on the body. I took the deck off and installed the insulator from the bottom trimming just a bit off the lip to get it to sit flush around the positive post. With this setup you just have to make sure your coil is not touching the deck and you are good to go without having to worry about the center post shorting.
For the wick I ended up opening the slot for the wick just a bit with a dremil tool and thin cutoff wheel. the rolled a 400SS mesh rolled with a hole in the middle cut flush with the outside of the deck. This worked well but would flood once is sat for awhile so I put 1mm silica wick in the corners of the wick channel on the top of the mess and that fixed the flooding.
Been using this for the last two days and it is holding up will with no dry hits after a bit of chain vaping and no flooding. Just wish I could open up air passage on it since it has a tight draw for me.
I burnt the insulator right off the bat checking the coil that came in it for hot spots. I feel this is a part that really needs to be there to keep the center post/air tube from grounding out on the body. I took the deck off and installed the insulator from the bottom trimming just a bit off the lip to get it to sit flush around the positive post. With this setup you just have to make sure your coil is not touching the deck and you are good to go without having to worry about the center post shorting.
For the wick I ended up opening the slot for the wick just a bit with a dremil tool and thin cutoff wheel. the rolled a 400SS mesh rolled with a hole in the middle cut flush with the outside of the deck. This worked well but would flood once is sat for awhile so I put 1mm silica wick in the corners of the wick channel on the top of the mess and that fixed the flooding.
Been using this for the last two days and it is holding up will with no dry hits after a bit of chain vaping and no flooding. Just wish I could open up air passage on it since it has a tight draw for me.
OK so the builds in the V2 may be flooding with SS because juice is finding its way either thru and loose ends or thru the wick hole. Someone needs to try SS rope since its solid and shouldn't leak in! Anyone try rope yet?
My concern (and it might not be valid) would be the mesh retaining heat and allowing the insulator to cook longer.
Call me clueless but I am sitting here playing with some string and doing a normal wrap around my left index finger, then laying that on it's side puts the legs on the bottom, the coil on the top, and the left leg going to 10 o'clock and the right going to the 4 o'clock as it should be. What am I missing?
I'm starting to feel like the fogger v2 is a bust as well. I've rebuilt it quite a few times now. Very inconsistent results so far. I'm no rebuild wizard, but this isn't the first "BCC" I've worked with. Works great one night, wake up the next morning while the tank has been sitting still, only to get a dry hit. ...!?! Thought I had it fixed... Oh well. Best of luck to those who are determined to get the consistent vape from the fogger v2.
Silly question, but when you leave it over night is it in an upright position? If so I cannot imagine how it could be dry.
Maybe just set it aside for a while and let people figure out all the quirks of this thing and then try again when we have more info. I am still waiting for mine to come, so for me it is all speculation at this point combined with working knowledge of how BCC's work.
Yeah... it was left in the upright position. It's weird... I know. Someone else posted a similar experience earlier. Its a sick looking piece. It has potential but I'm done for now. I have math tests to grade. Haha.
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