Fogger V2...WOW

[craftmath]

I just received mine yesterday, and will be building it soon. It's really quite a nice little unit.

I'm a pure Genesis guy, so have tons of SS mesh but hardly any silica on hand, so I'm thinking of trying the existing mesh and/or microcoil + cotton.

For cotton... are those of you who have tried this, are you using a little piece of cotton from a cotton ball, or cotton yarn? I ask because I can see where flooding could become a concern...

I'm using rolled cotton, which is similar to cotton balls. The oring over the wick, holding it in place has helped with leaking. I think I still have a small leaking problem, but its not coming out of the air hole like it was before. Just some minor tuning I'm thinking.

 

[foggerv2]

Are you saying you can remove the 510 base from the piece where the wick and wire go?

Yes the last peice unscrews I'm sure of it. I did it on one of them..
Grrrr my Mrs dropped my SVD on the floor glass has hairline crack..... Not happy bunny.....

 

[foggerv2]

I just received mine yesterday, and will be building it soon. It's really quite a nice little unit.

I'm a pure Genesis guy, so have tons of SS mesh but hardly any silica on hand, so I'm thinking of trying the existing mesh and/or microcoil + cotton.

For cotton... are those of you who have tried this, are you using a little piece of cotton from a cotton ball, or cotton yarn? I ask because I can see where flooding could become a concern...

I'm using the wife's cotton pads lol....took the cotton from the middle boiled it for 15-20 mins let it dry.. Rolled tight one end pull thru with pointy tweezers

 

[calisun]

Lol, no chance, I just drained and refilled it to check what size of rope it would take

Sent from my shed by TJ

BTW, thank you for all your reviews on youtube.

Very good reviews and enjoy watch them.

 

[ScottP]

I am planning on trying SS Rope. Either 1/16th or 2mm with either ekowool sleeves on either end to prevent leaking or maybe a small silicone washer on either end to make the wick hole perfectly round at the right size. No clue if this will work or not...but hey worth a shot.

 

[Riffy]

What's the actual capacity of this? I've seen it listed with as far up as 10ml and as low as 3.5ml.

 

[Kemosabe]

What's the actual capacity of this? I've seen it listed with as far up as 10ml and as low as 3.5ml.

I think someone said it was right around 6ml. It's in this thread or the foggerv1 thread.

 

[RedFox]

I think that Todd said in his review that it was 3.5 ml.

 

[Riffy]

2 different answer so far hehe

 

[Kemosabe]

2 different answer so far hehe

Go with what Todd said. I was just going off memory, which is apparently hazy at best.

 

[Riffy]

Yeah I just watched his review again. He did say 3.5 ml. That seems like the norm now adays too.
*continues to wait for it to arrive*

 

[rizzo777]

I give up on this until someone finds a good way to get it to wick. I get good results for 5 minutes then it feels like I'm either vaping cotton juice with cotton wick or full flavor when I have a puddle of juice in my mouth from SS..lol.. I'm not a noob I just can't win. Once someone comes up with a good solution I'll definetly work on it again. Help!

 

[vapdivrr]

Plastic tank? Sounds like the first version. V2 should have a pyrex tank. I don't think the fish sticks fit in these from what I've seen... they're to thick.

I think your right, its a version 1. so is the pyrex the only upgrade in the v-2? I still haven't messed with it yet but the ss mesh that came with it set -up already looks about the size of my 3/32 fc's that I still have before they discontinued them. if still to thick I could probably sand them down a tad.

 

[Trainman0978]

If anyone who owns the V2 and has calipers It would be great if someone could get these measurements of the glass tube for me-
total tank height is 1.21" high.... but mine is actually not squarely cut across the top. this is the tallest point.
If someone else is willing, the measurements we would need are:
1. Outside diameter of the lower part. .87"
2. Inside diameter of the lower part. .70" + maybe.003"-.005" or so, my caliper isn't that precise
3. Outside diameter of the upper part. .785" - the dial falls dead center between .78 and .79
4. Inside diameter of the upper part. .67" - this one seems exact
5. Length of the lower part. .55" - this one also seems spot on
6. Length of the upper part. .63 -.632 " - the dial lays just a hair past .63"
7. Thickness of upper part. .06"
8. Thickness of lower part .08"

take notice that the inside diameter of the top and bottom are slightly different. when you insert your finger from the bottom of the cylinder, you can a very slight lip or ledge there. I am sure when the part is on the lathe it will center this off so it fits the base and the sized o-rings correctly. based on the way my cylinder is made.... not being square across the top surface and bottom surface... I think the inside measurements are critical to get a good seal, and to hold the most amount of juice. The top outside diameter matters too, since there is a cover that fits over it. In other words, make sure they have all the parts there to test fit it as they mill it.

hope this helps you out.

This is so i can try to get a SS tank for my v2 because i broke the glass one it came with.

Had to type something below the quote in order for it to post.

 

[Trainman0978]

now... For me to play with this thing a little more. I filled it last night, as it came out the tube, and tried to vape it... it came at around one ohm... or less.... so I but it on my mech, after putting in the o ring on the bottom.... it tasted like crap. gonna read up the rest of this thread.... then try to wick it and see where I am with it.

I also have a Russian on the way to me....should be here next week!!!

 

[Trainman0978]

used 2mm silica.
used 33 gauge kanthal...

Evic is showing a 1.9 ohm build.

Wet the wick down good, getting a good light up of the coil... put a ML of juice in it....

The vaopr production is insane.... 3.6 volts, 6.8 watts ....

but there is a burnt taste... that after a good fifteen hits, it still wont go away... Its very harsh, and not getting any better.
I have four wraps, I have the coil off the insulator under it , I put the o-ring per Todd's video under the 510 pin. I torched the wire good to anneal it and to burn off any chemical residue on it. I didnt heat the wick or anything ( I have seen a few videos where they say to torch the wick first too... )

It works fantastic.

But the burnt - or chemical burning taste... sucks.

 

[Riffy]

Can you take out that insulator under the coil? I can't tell from the pictures what it's for.

 

[Trainman0978]

Yes, it can come out.... I am not sure if its needed either. It may be there to insure the post stays clear of the tube's inside walls ... I may try to cut it down so it would be a sleeve in the tube, instead of it sticking up directly under the coil, above the surface it sits on..... Its a bear to get back in though. I took mine out a little while ago... and the top of it ( the part you see with it in the device ) felt hard and like it has melted and then cooled a few times. I am wondering if it is getting hot and melting and cooling off each time you fire the coil. I built a new coil and wick for it, torching the wick first, and torching the wire before wrapping it too.... and the burnt taste is still there , even with a different juice.

I dunno. It may sit on a shelf for awhile until some body figures it out.

One thing can be said. Right now... I have two kanger protank V2 tanks...... and they work flawlessly.

 

[Riffy]

Weird. Don't have mine yet so can't help ya, but it sounds to me like it's that piece or just not wicking right. Can you build it with the coils farther from that piece?

 

[ScottP]

Yes, it can come out.... I am not sure if its needed either. It may be there to insure the post stays clear of the tube's inside walls ... I may try to cut it down so it would be a sleeve in the tube, instead of it sticking up directly under the coil, above the surface it sits on..... Its a bear to get back in though. I took mine out a little while ago... and the top of it ( the part you see with it in the device ) felt hard and like it has melted and then cooled a few times. I am wondering if it is getting hot and melting and cooling off each time you fire the coil. I built a new coil and wick for it, torching the wick first, and torching the wire before wrapping it too.... and the burnt taste is still there , even with a different juice.

I dunno. It may sit on a shelf for awhile until some body figures it out.

One thing can be said. Right now... I have two kanger protank V2 tanks...... and they work flawlessly.

I know you said the coil was not touching the insulator but maybe the coil is too close to it. When you put the coil in, make sure the leads are on the bottom of the coil. That should hero raise just a bit more than if they are above the coil.