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I think I just figured out and mitigated the shorting issue.........
I have had my Fogger for 2 days now, gone through 2 full tanks of dvs blueberry blizzard and to be honest not one leak, gurgle or dry hit with this setup. I am using a 1/16" 28awg kanthal 8 wrap micro coil at .9 ohms. I set it up like this because i use a segelei kick at 10watts or when I want a much hotter vape I remove the kick and go straight battery. It is perfect either way and is wicking great.
The setup is cotton, I use enough so it is a bit tight pulling it through the micro coil, I pull about 3-4mm out of each side of the channels then do the s style pull back into the base leaving the tails flush at the openings. I make sure that the s shape curves down so it touches the base to wick any drips up rather than down into the air tube. Then put the oring back over the channels and screw the funnel back on.
I think that the rubber insulator around the air hole does serve a purpose in that it may be there to stop excess juice that builds on the base from flowing straight down the tube, at least I can see this being an issue if it is removed. The insulator imo is only an issue if you are trying a mesh build because it need to be built low in the channel right where it can burn the silicone, anything else and it can be done as seen in my photos below.
Oh yeah the base section does unscrew for anyone that was wanting to try it or if you want to mod the center insulator. Was just trying to unscrew the fogger from my drawtube by grabbing it just above the adjuster ring, all of a sudden I notice the body is spinning but the base wasn't. Here is the base section off of the fogger and the airflow setup in it. Comes apart at the top of the adjuster ring where the lip is to stop it.
This is a picture of what is left of the fogger after removing the base. You can see the smaller round disc which is the positive connector inside the fogger, if you screw the fogger down too tight onto a mod and the 510 pin is sticking out it will push up into this and may cut through that silicone causing a bad short. Be careful with how tight you screw this onto a mod, the 510 pin is weak and can't handle force.
Here you can see how I setup my coil above the rubber insulator, I use the 1/16 drill bit to hold it flush to the top of the channels, leaves lots of room for dry burning the coil and makes rewicking with cotton easy.
Here is the s styled cotton setup I'm using, the s section comes down onto the base to catch any juice that drops/splashes down, basically a dripper style setup of sorts if that makes sense. Oring goes over then the funnel is screwed on tightish.
And finally some vape pornNotice the work place in the background....yeah they payed for me to mess with my fogger all day lol
So....My theory was that the shorting problem had not so much to do with the 510 pin and how deep or shallow it sits, but its angle. The second picture above hints at the situation. Notice that the positive post sticking out eversoslightly from the underside of the deck would cause the plate (with two tubes) -- which the 510 pin screws into -- to get wedged in at an angle. And if it all gets squeezed too tightly together, like when I was screwing the Fogger into my mech, the other side of the 510 disc/tube thingy would make contact with the housing, and thus the negative terminal. When I took mine apart, I saw some black crud on the surface of the underside deck directly opposite the positive post bottom, which methinks is oxidation from electrical arcing.
So I cut one of the spare silicone o-rings (one of the chimney ones) in half and wedged the half-ring between deck underside and 510 plate/tube thingy, trying to leave space for air flow, screwed it all back together and........so far so good.
I'll be keeping my eye on the 510 screw to see if it starts to lean back to one side again. And I kept that extra tiny o-ring out this time, because I don't think it is shorting against the inner sides of the 510 threading, especially now that I've got it seated almost all the way in.
If anyone is interested, I'll post pics of the "fix" once I've kept it going for awhile and am confident that it is actually fixed.
Update on a V1 I received on Thursday (couldn't find a V1 thread)
After reading the many issues and fixes, I decided to take the "do nothing" approach. The only fix was to remove the stock washer pushing on the wick, and replace it with a black thicker oring laying below the wick.
I did try the following wicking materials with the following results:
400 mesh: dry it after dry hit
ceramic F2000: same as above
2mm silica: better, but frequent dry hits
3mm cotton string: good, with fewer dry hits
cotton ball: excellent, no dry hits
In all scenarios, the wick was barely protruding, I used 34 gauge wire, with an ohm reading of 1.4 on my mech drawtube. All my juices are 80+ % in vg, so thick stuff.
The amazing thing....no leaks in all scenarios! Just a little moisture at the 510 connection, but that's normal.
Since this is a vacuumed bcc, very important to take a none-activated draw every now and then.
Overall, the flavor is outstanding.
Did I luck out? Who knows, but for $32.98 investment this compares to my expensive rba's very nicely.
After reading the many issues and fixes, I decided to take the "do nothing" approach. The only fix was to remove the stock washer pushing on the wick, and replace it with a black thicker oring laying below the wick.
I did try the following wicking materials with the following results:
400 mesh: dry it after dry hit
ceramic F2000: same as above
2mm silica: better, but frequent dry hits
3mm cotton string: good, with fewer dry hits
cotton ball: excellent, no dry hits
In all scenarios, the wick was barely protruding, I used 34 gauge wire, with an ohm reading of 1.4 on my mech drawtube. All my juices are 80+ % in vg, so thick stuff.
The amazing thing....no leaks in all scenarios! Just a little moisture at the 510 connection, but that's normal.
Since this is a vacuumed bcc, very important to take a none-activated draw every now and then.
Overall, the flavor is outstanding.
Did I luck out? Who knows, but for $32.98 investment this compares to my expensive rba's very nicely.
Here's a pic of the little silicone spacer. It's on the right. The positive post bottom is on the left.
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This is defiantly an issue for sure to watch for too, on mine I pushed the positive post down so I could slip that same chimney oring underneath that disc part effectively raising that that disc and making it alot hard to short out.
Well I finally got this thing to be vapeable. Cotton 5 wraps and cut it right at the end of the well so it won't stick out. This was vaping great for 1 tank then now I have to take pulls while the airholes are closed to get it to wick. I don't understand why it works flawlessly then all of the sudden it doesn't want to wick. I also went to a auto part store and bought some thicker orings for the chimney which helped the flooding
Woot! Mine will be here tomorrow! Now who can think of reasons/excuses to stay home from work to receive vape mail, and subsequently build/play/experiment with my Fogger V2?
Maybe the cotton needs to sick out just so slightly into the tank? Perhaps because your wick is not in contact with enough juice (e.g. sitting in a well of it at each end) it isn't wicking properly on its own, requiring you to draw the juice onto it just to get it going?
My set up sounds nearly identical to yours except that my cotton sticks out and it has been chugging along like a happy frieght train since yesterday evening.
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With any luck I should have mine by the end of the week can't wait to play with this thing
For those interested dragonflyecigs.com has these in stock for $31.95. It doesn't say V2 on their site but I emailed the manager and she confirmed it is the V2. Ordered mine and should be shipped tomorrow.
I just looked at their site and the pictures are indeed of the V2. One thing that I noticed as odd though, is one of the bullet points in the description: "•Adjustable resistance: 0.5-3.0ohm". Other than rebuilding a coil how do you get adjustable resistance in a topper?
I had questions about the pictures with regards to the listed item and that's why I emailed the manager. Once she confirmed which item it was I tried to order and it was showing out of stock. After another email it was fixed and was able to process the order. Already received my USPS tracking number and since they are in Texas, as am I, I should have it by Thursday at the latest.
I've seen the adjustable resistance thing before on China made clones. I think it loses something in the translation. As long as I get a V2 I could care less if it said " Adjustable vapor for very best pleasure."
I had questions about the pictures with regards to the listed item and that's why I emailed the manager. Once she confirmed which item it was I tried to order and it was showing out of stock. After another email it was fixed and was able to process the order. Already received my USPS tracking number and since they are in Texas, as am I, I should have it by Thursday at the latest.
I've seen the adjustable resistance thing before on China made clones. I think it loses something in the translation. As long as I get a V2 I could care less if it said " Adjustable vapor for very best pleasure."
Yeah I love the translation stuff. This one is my favorite:
Energy Saving 900mAh Electronic Cigarette USB Rechargeable E-Cigarette - Stainless Steel - Best Deal | aHappyDeal
Anyone tried "twik ekowool" on fogger V2 yet? Just wondering how's the result on it..
Thanks
Thanks
I ordered one today from free-cigs.com for $31.99 plus 3.25 s&h. Should ship tomorrow.
I'll post a pic of my build later tonight after I finish off this tank. Prolly rebuild it then anyways. Think I want less ohms than what my current one is. I also noticed that you can help the wicking with putting in the fill screw in loosely. With the fill screw in loose I can close the air and easily give it a draw to get more juice on the wick. Easy to flood it doing that too, but gives some extra control over the wicking.
Wonder when the V3 is going to come out.
Wonder when the V3 is going to come out.
I followed Todd's video. Using 2mm silica doubled over and 30ga kanthal. 4 5 wrap about 1.3 ohms(so my SVD says). Been vaping all day with no problems. Heavy vaper . This was my fourth go at this. Finally got good results.
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