Fogger V2...WOW

[nelsonm64]

I just set up my second one, modded the wick slots with a 3 mm diamond bit.
Every time a take a drag a little bubble come out of the end of the wick.
These two Foggers are making all my other stuff look bad.

i've thought about enlarging the wick slots... hmmm. and ya, this thing is great once you get it setup right! lots of factory short comings i had to fix but after that it's been great! vapes just as good as any of my highend atty's better than a couple of um

 

[dwcraig1]

i've thought about enlarging the wick slots... hmmm. and ya, this thing is great once you get it setup right! lots of factory short comings i had to fix but after that it's been great! vapes just as good as any of my highend atty's better than a couple of um

Rolled cotton is very forgiving, it can fill any shape of hole.
My openings are half spheres, I thought about doing the chamber cover but thought it might grab and pull the wick while screwing it on.

The fuzziness around the wick hole is cotton that's sticking out.

And this is micro coiled so every couple of days right before I refill it I'll just feed another piece of cotton through the coil. It doesn't get much easier than that.

Or this:

 

[dwcraig1]

Re: the bag of spares, I could do with a couple less o-rings and like to have a couple extra of those fill screws, they look like a tough one to find a replacement for.

 

[jmarkus]

im using 3.5mm wick, doubled. 3.5 wick seems to fit absolutely perfect. 1 wick cut flush with the wick holes, 1 wick trimmed to stay inside the cup. i also decided to take off the upper deck to fill, and remove the fill screw so when i put the deck back on it doesnt cause pressure to build. put the fill screw back in. perfect so far.

 

[nelsonm64]

Re: the bag of spares, I could do with a couple less o-rings and like to have a couple extra of those fill screws, they look like a tough one to find a replacement for.

my fill screw was borked from day one. i have to pop the top cap off to fill it i'm thinking about putting a drop of clear silicone in the fill hole, let it harden and pop it out with a pin... not quite sure what to do because you'll never find a suitable replacement imo, unless it came from the manufacturer.

 

[Scope666]

my fill screw was borked from day one. i have to pop the top cap off to fill it i'm thinking about putting a drop of clear silicone in the fill hole, let it harden and pop it out with a pin... not quite sure what to do because you'll never find a suitable replacement imo, unless it came from the manufacturer.

That actually sounds like a great idea. You would effectively be creating your own RSST style plug.

 

[nelsonm64]

That actually sounds like a great idea. You would effectively be creating your own RSST style plug.

yeah that's kinda along the lines i'm thinking. i would still have to pop it out with a pin but, it should seall well enough and definately be better than taking the top cap off like i'm having to do now...

 

[ScottP]

my fill screw was borked from day one. i have to pop the top cap off to fill it i'm thinking about putting a drop of clear silicone in the fill hole, let it harden and pop it out with a pin... not quite sure what to do because you'll never find a suitable replacement imo, unless it came from the manufacturer.

Silicone can stick to metal, I would use some sort of lube on the metal before dropping the silicone. You just want the metal to shape it.

 

[nelsonm64]

Silicone can stick to metal, I would use some sort of lube on the metal before dropping the silicone. You just want the metal to shape it.

yeah thats a good point, thx. im open to any other ideas for the fill screw issue. in my case the screw is ok i think its the threads in the cap that are either too big or stripped right out of the factory. and i think it's the latter because putting a little teflon tape on he screw made it seal just enough. but, i cant get the bugger out unless i take the top off and push it out through the bottom of the cap...

 

[ScottP]

yeah thats a good point, thx. im open to any other ideas for the fill screw issue. in my case the screw is ok i think its the threads in the cap that are either too big or stripped right out of the factory. and i think it's the latter because putting a little teflon tape on he screw made it seal just enough. but, i cant get the bugger out unless i take the top off and push it out through the bottom of the cap...

Actually I thought of maybe a better way to make a silicone stopper that will poke down into the tank just a hair and have a wide top to help seal and make it easier to remove.

Take a drywall screw and cut the top off leaving just a couple of mm of the shaft. Then press that drywall screw into a small chunk from a bar of soap to create a mold. Drip the silicone into that. Once it drys you should be able to pull the silicone version of the screw out easily, if not, just soak it in water until the soap dissolves. I am not 100% sure the drywall screw is the right thing to use, but some variation of this method should yield something good to use.

 

[gdeal]

I was pulling together a 26g micro coil for the Fogger. Working with the thicker wire was a pita to wrap the wire around the screws with the screws in place. So I took two 20g blunt tips and place them in the screw holes to form the precise bend for screws placement. Taking one needle out at a time, the screw sits nicely on the wire just catching the base of its head. Then in just a straight shot into the hole.

 

[ScottP]

Ok out of two Foggers one is working great other than the taste from the insulator. The other one was shorting straight out of the box and I have taken it apart and put it back together probably near 30 times, each time trying different insulators in different spots, and even removing and reseating the whole positive pin. I did try using the half o-ring under between the base assembly and that double post middle piece. No matter what it's shorting without even putting a coil in it. ONCE, I finally managed to get the whole base together with no shorts, threw a coil in it and got 2.4 ohms. Then I realized the air flow wheel was stuck open so I tried to get that to close a bit, uh-oh unscrewed the whole air flow assembly from the deck assembly about 1/4 turn. Tightened that back down and made sure to turn just the air flow ring...with virtually NOTHING else to hold on to. Now it's back to short city. There is something seriously wrong with the way the air flow assembly, my deck assembly and my positive pin are put together.

Ok I finally figured out what it was. In the bottom of the deck assembly where the center hole and the pos post hole meet there was a metal burr left over from when they drilled the holes that was hanging out from underneath the pos post insulator and making contact with the center shaft when assembled. I had to take a screwdriver and scrape that burr off and now it looks like it might work.

 

[nelsonm64]

Actually I thought of maybe a better way to make a silicone stopper that will poke down into the tank just a hair and have a wide top to help seal and make it easier to remove.

Take a drywall screw and cut the top off leaving just a couple of mm of the shaft. Then press that drywall screw into a small chunk from a bar of soap to create a mold. Drip the silicone into that. Once it drys you should be able to pull the silicone version of the screw out easily, if not, just soak it in water until the soap dissolves. I am not 100% sure the drywall screw is the right thing to use, but some variation of this method should yield something good to use.

thats a good idea too. first i'm going to try spraying pam or something like it on the cap and put silicone in the hole, if that doesnt work i'll try making a molde.

 

[dwcraig1]

I was pulling together a 26g micro coil for the Fogger. Working with the thicker wire was a pita to wrap the wire around the screws with the screws in place. So I took two 20g blunt tips and place them in the screw holes to form the precise bend for screws placement. Taking one needle out at a time, the screw sits nicely on the wire just catching the base of its head. Then in just a straight shot into the hole.

So after you get your bends where you want them place your coil on a small block of wood or whatever, mark the spots and put in a couple finishing nails or small screws to make a jig for all the next coils. Just a suggestion.

Looking at the picture I notice that in the center where the air comes out is different on this one than the way mine are. The area around my air holes is slightly recessed and has no insulator sticking up.
I have a v1 Fogger as well as two v2's and the v1's air hole is like the one in the picture.

 

[opuscroakus]

Looking at the picture I notice that in the center where the air comes out is different on this one than the way mine are. The area around my air holes is slightly recessed and has no insulator sticking up.

From everyone's description I thought I had the only one like you described. Glad I'm not alone.

 

[gdeal]

So after you get your bends where you want them place your coil on a mall block of wood or whatever, mark the spots and put in a couple finishing nails or small screws to make a jig for all the next coils. Just a suggestion.

Looking at the picture I notice that in the center where the air comes out is different on this one than the way mine are. The area around my air holes is slightly recessed and has no insulator sticking up.
I have a v1 Fogger and it's air hole is like the one in the picture.

A jig would be great!

I have the v2. That raise insulator is a nuisance. (I dont need flood control). I have been trying to get my device apart for days for get rid of it. I tried the wrap (leather, rubber etc..) but I can get a good grip on the pieces. That and probable the excess of loctite they put in the threads.

What were they thinking..."Lets put rubber next to the coil...gives bigger toxic throat hit?"

 

[steved5600]

The wick that comes with them sucked. I ended up with a hybrid wick SS mesh center and 2mm ekowool on the outer and not quite micro coil using 32 ga wire. Only wick that did not leak like a sieve. I also used a bigger rubber O ring for the vapor cone that goes over the wick. Vapes really good at 8 watts and the resistance is about 2.2 ohms. It can take a sec to heat up if it's set a while though. But no leaks. Biggest problem the locals around me have had is the crappy wick that comes in it and leaks. I think I fixed that for me. Will do a different coil next time though. It is like the Protank if it had adjustable air flow. Best comparison. Good flavor. I'd give it 5 stars but for the original equipment. The original wicks and the original Oring.

 

[pizza2me]

thats a good idea too. first i'm going to try spraying pam or something like it on the cap and put silicone in the hole, if that doesnt work i'll try making a molde.

I use nylon screws for my wife's RSST fill holes. The ones I got were a tad bid so I just briefly torched with lighter and squished the end to the size needed. Works great and stays put. and you can cut it as short as you need

 

[dwcraig1]

A jig would be great!

I have the v2. That raise insulator is a nuisance. (I dont need flood control). I have been trying to get my device apart for days for get rid of it. I tried the wrap (leather, rubber etc..) but I can get a good grip on the pieces. That and probable the excess of loctite they put in the threads.

What were they thinking..."Lets put rubber next to the coil...gives bigger toxic throat hit?"

Mine were part of the group buy over at that "other forum"

 

[dwcraig1]

I use nylon screws for my wife's RSST fill holes. The ones I got were a tad bid so I just briefly torched with lighter and squished the end to the size needed. Works great and stays put. and you can cut it as short as you need

Really good idea.