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So I destroyed my Fogger v2 the other day. Really, it was already not working. I decided to try and take it apart entirely since there was absolutely no airflow what-so-ever. I'm a big ol' goon though and I bent the walls (for lack of a better word) around the build area. I wanted to take apart the air flow control part and fix whatever was wrong. Instead of getting it apart though I just bent the s#!t out of it. Here's some pictures:
The good news is I bent them again, in an attempt to repair it, and the cover for the build area actually screws on now. Maybe I can still use it!? The airflow problem is a killer though. My fogger v2 is simply unusable the way the airflow is currently. If anyone can show/tell me how to take apart the airflow regulator part I would be very grateful. Thanks for your help.
EDIT: I have read through the thread and seen the posts regarding taking this apart. They didn't really help. Maybe mine is just extremely tight? It almost feels like there's locktight on it or something. No amount of force got the airflow part to twist at all.
The good news is I bent them again, in an attempt to repair it, and the cover for the build area actually screws on now. Maybe I can still use it!? The airflow problem is a killer though. My fogger v2 is simply unusable the way the airflow is currently. If anyone can show/tell me how to take apart the airflow regulator part I would be very grateful. Thanks for your help.
EDIT: I have read through the thread and seen the posts regarding taking this apart. They didn't really help. Maybe mine is just extremely tight? It almost feels like there's locktight on it or something. No amount of force got the airflow part to twist at all.
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I didn't have enough posts to post in this thread so I started one in the new members forum. If you want to torture yourself with more pictures of my bent/broken Fogger v2, check it out.
http://www.e-cigarette-forum.com/forum/new-members-forum/475985-i-bent-broke-my-new-fogger-v2.html
http://www.e-cigarette-forum.com/forum/new-members-forum/475985-i-bent-broke-my-new-fogger-v2.html
Below is how I get it apart. My second one was really stuck together.
- first start by running hot water over the base for a few minutes, probably better is boiling the base for a few minutes.
- while it's still warm but cool enough to handle find something to grab around the base and something that fits good in the slots. I use some pliers that I put heat shrink over the jaws and a pair of tweezers in the slot.
- if the chimney cap doesn't thread on or is a little tight. (Second pic) I use the heat shrunk pliers and work around the chimney cap threads, slightly squeezing until the chimney cap threads on good.
- first start by running hot water over the base for a few minutes, probably better is boiling the base for a few minutes.
- while it's still warm but cool enough to handle find something to grab around the base and something that fits good in the slots. I use some pliers that I put heat shrink over the jaws and a pair of tweezers in the slot.
- if the chimney cap doesn't thread on or is a little tight. (Second pic) I use the heat shrunk pliers and work around the chimney cap threads, slightly squeezing until the chimney cap threads on good.
Air flow
The ID of the center tube is the most restrictive in the air flow path, followed by the four holes in the center tube, then the three holes in the base with the adjuster ring.
Couple things to check if air seems restricted.
- that the notch in the bottom silicone piece is lined up with the three holes in the base. Instead of worrying about trying to keep it lined up, I trimmed it to the diameter of the disk on the center tube.
- make sure the insulator on the center tube isn't covering the four holes in the center tube.
Here is what the parts look like originally
Here are the mods I did to eliminate possible shorting and open air flow up to what the adjustment ring allows.
- trimmed bottom silicone piece to diameter of center tube disk.
- glued a piece of plastic opposite of the insulated coil post that is approximately the same height of the insulated coil post.
- cut off the top of the center tube....warning this piece is brass with coating.
The ID of the center tube is the most restrictive in the air flow path, followed by the four holes in the center tube, then the three holes in the base with the adjuster ring.
Couple things to check if air seems restricted.
- that the notch in the bottom silicone piece is lined up with the three holes in the base. Instead of worrying about trying to keep it lined up, I trimmed it to the diameter of the disk on the center tube.
- make sure the insulator on the center tube isn't covering the four holes in the center tube.
Here is what the parts look like originally
Here are the mods I did to eliminate possible shorting and open air flow up to what the adjustment ring allows.
- trimmed bottom silicone piece to diameter of center tube disk.
- glued a piece of plastic opposite of the insulated coil post that is approximately the same height of the insulated coil post.
- cut off the top of the center tube....warning this piece is brass with coating.
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A fix for the airflow issue. These pics are not mine, but of a friends modification. I have not tried this yet but am told it opens up the airflow nicely.
Original breather tube hole.
Pic after enlarging the hole.
Original breather tube hole.
Pic after enlarging the hole.
I cut that silicone sleeve into an octagon shape and airflow improved a bit. No more blockage due to that thing anymore. Thinking about drilling like the post above.
I think I FINALLY have this thing feeding well, after trying a LOT of different wick mediums (2 & 3 mm Silica, rolled cotton, cotton yarn)
I remembered somebody mentioning Peaches & Creme Yarn, I used a piece of that, but removed one single strand from it before threading. I used the o-ring under the juice control for now (haven't been successful yet without it)
This is the first time I'm getting some nice bubble after a pull, and not getting dry hits, or flooding. It finally feels balanced if you will.
I remembered somebody mentioning Peaches & Creme Yarn, I used a piece of that, but removed one single strand from it before threading. I used the o-ring under the juice control for now (haven't been successful yet without it)
This is the first time I'm getting some nice bubble after a pull, and not getting dry hits, or flooding. It finally feels balanced if you will.
been having some problems getting this. don't want to use cotton, i have a preference to silica. i have both 1 mm and 2 mm silica and using 32g kanthal. This one seems to want to exist in one of 2 states: the "one hit then dry hit wonder" or the guggler. I have to use the silica o ring otherwise it will flood. no matter how i do it i will either get one good hit then dry hits or it will flood. not sure what I am doing wrong here.
I have heard that 2.5mm -3.0mm silica is needed for this with no oring.
These things really are sweet. Better price then the real Taifun GT by a lot. And extra features.
i have tried stacking the 2 mm on these and get the same results: no oring=flooding, and with O ring it is still dry. cant just seem to get it to wick right.
From my last build which is pretty good, It's a less is more kind of thing. You just have to occupy the exit holes, without it being stuffed (compressed) in there ... negative pressure does the rest. (fill screw in place, o-ring in place under juice control)
Use a nettle and straighten out the strands of silica after it comes out of the coil so it's nice and loose going through the wick holes, that way it can form easily to the shape of the hole. It should not be tight in the wick holes.
Tight wick in the wick hole = dry
Gaps (shine a light through it) around the wick in the wick holes = flooding
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Since I got it working, but not "optimized" I had another go at the Fogger tonight. I used cotton/hemp yarn from modnworld.com, not sure of the thickness of the strands, but I doubled it over twice, so I've got, effectively, four strands. 32 gauge kanthal. 1.1Ohm. Here are photos. It's working like a champ now, no dry hits, and no flooding. I left the o-ring that goes around the build well off, and filled it with the entire top cap removed. Airflow control ring was left open during filling and I've left it open ever since (for the past maybe two hours) and no leaks. Fingers crossed....
Also, I trimmed the wicks a little closer than what you'll see in the first photo. In the subsequent photos of the fully assembled unit I hope you get a better idea of just how close they ARE trimmed. I cut them as close to flush as I possibly could, trying virtually ever scissors-like device in the house.
As is obvious, vapor production is good but not stellar. Probably because of the small amount of contact between the wick and the wire. I might try again tomorrow or the next day with 28 gauge, but that stuff is a bear to maneuver around in the build well. For the sake of my own sanity, I've stopped bothering with micro coils.
Also, I trimmed the wicks a little closer than what you'll see in the first photo. In the subsequent photos of the fully assembled unit I hope you get a better idea of just how close they ARE trimmed. I cut them as close to flush as I possibly could, trying virtually ever scissors-like device in the house.
As is obvious, vapor production is good but not stellar. Probably because of the small amount of contact between the wick and the wire. I might try again tomorrow or the next day with 28 gauge, but that stuff is a bear to maneuver around in the build well. For the sake of my own sanity, I've stopped bothering with micro coils.
28g, 9 wraps, .9Ω. Still waiting for the replacement glass tank and it's killing me 
I just built a vertical microcoil and shaped cotton, then placed it around the microcoil.
Wow. This is the best build yet. Don't use too much cotton, but...this is tremendous.
Forgive the watermark and FPS, but here goes: https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=h5PZgFpw4s8
I can't get it to dry hit at all. No way, no how. Flooding is also a no go - I sucked on the thing for 30 seconds straight with the AFC fully closed, and it's perfect.
This is my new daily setup.
e: by the way, an 18ga needle fits perfectly in the airflow of the Fogger. I used it to build and insert my coil, then used tweezers to squish it a bit.
Wow. This is the best build yet. Don't use too much cotton, but...this is tremendous.
Forgive the watermark and FPS, but here goes: https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=h5PZgFpw4s8
I can't get it to dry hit at all. No way, no how. Flooding is also a no go - I sucked on the thing for 30 seconds straight with the AFC fully closed, and it's perfect.
This is my new daily setup.
e: by the way, an 18ga needle fits perfectly in the airflow of the Fogger. I used it to build and insert my coil, then used tweezers to squish it a bit.
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