- Status
OK so here's my latest fogger news was having a hard time keeping the juice in the chamber so today I took it all the way apart took my dremmel reamer and worked the air holes by hand cleaned it all up and started rebuilding when I got to the coil I had read about a vertical coil so I gave it a try 10 wraps of 28 ga and lots of work but finally got it on there packed cotton around the coil and did a cotton wick across the wick holes wet all the cotton then finished it up tried it on my ohmmeter and it was at 1.5 ok good filled it with juice and put it on top of my magneto... wow what a difference tons of vapor and no more twirling and dipping air draw was much better so I'm very happy now gonna watch some football and vape myself silly.
Nope just checked and Vaporbeast is out of stock. There is a dealer on Ebay selling them for $34.99 with $4.00 shipping.vaporbeast. And they have it in stock.
phew! thanks! trigger pulled... and i'll be back in a week to ask every question that didn't yet get asked in this thread
Oops! Sorry... they don't show up as out of stock until you try to put one in the cart.
I am very pleased with this thing. I'm still running a micro with cotton and it's wicking great. I'm filling it upright with a syringe through the fill hole and no leaking or flooding at all. It's not 100% consistant though.. Every once in a while I might get a kinda dryish hit and the fogger seems to say "sorry sorry.. Ok.. better now" and then all is well LOL Quality wise... I might be a little put off if I had paid a lot money but it's a $30 device and seems to be OK for that amount of money. I didn't think I would like it this much or have this easy of a time with it.
As far as MY experience goes.. yes, I would recommend this to a friend (as long as that friend knew what they were doing)
Well, I thought I'd be mr. smarty pants and attempt a rebuild on mine tonight. It has not been going well. Flood city, even thought I'm doing exactly what I did before: taking a small "core" of SS cable and encasing it in hollow ekowool, and wrapping that. I even used the NR-R-NR wire that I've got laying around. Ohm'd out to 1.3. Everything was lit up nice and evenly.
Took the top off the glass tank, placed it on the base, and filled slowly, with the airflow wide open just to see if any juice would leak. Nope. No leaks. I'M GOLDEN! I thought. First drag was tight and gurgly. So I let it sit upside down for a few hours. Sure enough, a little bit of juice had run out of the mouthpiece, from the center airshaft I'm assuming.
But when I went to take another drag, EXACT same situation. SUPER tight draw (airflow ring wide open, remember) and gurgling.
I let it sit upside down for a few more hours but got the same result. Out of pure frustration, I disassembled the whole thing, and I finally (by accident) got down to the rubber-lined "well" were the airflow intake lands. Photo is attached.
Now, when I first saw this bit, the cutout (that I assume is FOR the air intake) was twisted all around, opposite the three air holes. So in the photo, I've put it back where I THINK it belongs. But I wanted to run this by you nice helpful folks before I try another assembly. Because I've about had it with this thing tonight.
And I've still got my Ithaka clone to troubleshoot too....
Took the top off the glass tank, placed it on the base, and filled slowly, with the airflow wide open just to see if any juice would leak. Nope. No leaks. I'M GOLDEN! I thought. First drag was tight and gurgly. So I let it sit upside down for a few hours. Sure enough, a little bit of juice had run out of the mouthpiece, from the center airshaft I'm assuming.
But when I went to take another drag, EXACT same situation. SUPER tight draw (airflow ring wide open, remember) and gurgling.
I let it sit upside down for a few more hours but got the same result. Out of pure frustration, I disassembled the whole thing, and I finally (by accident) got down to the rubber-lined "well" were the airflow intake lands. Photo is attached.
Now, when I first saw this bit, the cutout (that I assume is FOR the air intake) was twisted all around, opposite the three air holes. So in the photo, I've put it back where I THINK it belongs. But I wanted to run this by you nice helpful folks before I try another assembly. Because I've about had it with this thing tonight.
And I've still got my Ithaka clone to troubleshoot too....
@ zipflint, are you saying that it was all right before but then it got turned during normal use?
I have not been inside mine as yet but how you have it there looks good as long as it stays put while you assemble it.
I have not been inside mine as yet but how you have it there looks good as long as it stays put while you assemble it.
Zipflint, yes that is the proper orientation for the base insulator. It seems necessary to keep the air flowing freely. That and not blocking the holes in the tiny tube part of the 510 connector. I cross my fingers when putting it back together, hoping it will stay that way. However, to make sure the other air holes remain unobstructed, I screw down tight the 510 screw and then keep the screwdriver in it as I'm reconstructing or at least note the fully tightened screw head's orientation relative to the base airholes. And then once it's all back together I will turn clockwise that screw (which turns the 510 tube/disc thing inside) until it lines up again.
Yeah it was "fine" but I thought with a bit of fiddling and a better wrap, I could get more flavor and more vapor. I tried to replicate my first successful build as well as I could, but I think that insulator or rubber well where the airflow goes got moved around at some point. I'll give it another shot tomorrow.
My nerves are shot. And not just because of vaping madness either.....
My nerves are shot. And not just because of vaping madness either.....
Turning the 510 screw clockwise when its all tightened up could possibly turn that insulator as well.....
And I thought you used SS mesh inside the ekowool last time.
And I thought you used SS mesh inside the ekowool last time.
You're right, I DID use mesh last time. But I didn't have a little chunk that was narrow enough to fit inside the only bit of ekowool i had left. But I DID have this measly little length of ss cable. That might be part of my problem but I kinda doubt it. Looking at it closer I think I might have cut the ekowool ends maybe TOO short, leaving just the tiny bit of cable at either end, causing more liquid than is required to get into that chamber.
But I'm not sure. I felt so rotten last night that right after that post, I took a "nap" (more like "went to sleep") and am just now waking up around 5AM. I'm feeling like a big dose of Damitol right about now.....
But I'm not sure. I felt so rotten last night that right after that post, I took a "nap" (more like "went to sleep") and am just now waking up around 5AM. I'm feeling like a big dose of Damitol right about now.....
Finally got mine dialed in. turns out my problem was that little insulator. I ended up taking it out, then pushing it back in slightly into the top to where the larger end was just at the top of its hole, if that makes sense. It's under the coil, not touching, but definitely not pushed down all the way into the hole which mine was when I got it.... I'm using basic silica wick right now, the flavor is OK at best right now but slowly getting better - which could also be due to the fairly thick juice i'm using. But damn, it's called the fogger for a reason! I'm also not using an O-ring on top of the wick holes.
Someone Help me, I'm going through Fogger withdrawal. While in Italy, I dropped my beloved v2, glass shattered, nd my gennies just don't cut it for me any more. Does anyone know where I can get a replacement glass tank? Everywhere I go is out of stock.
HELP ME
HELP ME
I've sworn off SS cable entirely now that I've found a few sweet spots with roled mesh and ceramic wicks. The cable just couldn't keep up with my chain vaping. Plus I like to use ribbon Kanthal wherever possible and it loses some of its utility when wound around the uneven surface of SS cable. So it seems to me that the persnickity wicking properties of the Fogger require such a delicate balance of wick speed to snugness of fit that using SS rope would put me at a significant disadvantage from the get go. But right now I can't even verify any novel Fogger findings because sadly it's tank is shattered and seemingly irreplaceble at the moment. Couple that with my mortally wounded RSST (bottom post threaded insulator no longer threaded), and now my two top performers are out of service indefinitely. I'm stuck using a poorly designed and cracked I-Atty, albeit one that's expertly setup using 0.8 Kanthal ribbon and a 500 SS mesh hatted ceramic wick coming out to 0.7 ohms, and a too-tiny-to-do-a-damn thing AGT. Now if I could figure out how to properly setup duals in my AGA-TD, and Steam Turbine (clone) I'd be stoked.
I had duals set up in my AGA-TD for about....an hour. For one thing, I didn't realize (I never think to look at the dimensions of these things, go me) how squat the TD is, so just getting ONE wick set up neatly in there is a challenge. When I finally did that (after about 40 minutes of work) I figured "what the heck" and did another one. It worked, and worked well. So well, in fact, that it alerted me to the fact that the battery I was using was NOT meant for that kind of amp output. Plus the bell/top cap was getting HOT. And the throat hit was just too much for this non-smoker. So I took out that other coil and saved it for when the first one got all gunky.
Good luck finding your replacement parts man!
Good luck finding your replacement parts man!
Mine isn't firing at all now...I'm guessing it's the positive pin, which is very loose. Problem is, I don't have an oring to stuff under there. Any other ideas?
Do you have a volt meter to check the resistance? (ohms) If it's reading as a dead short, you would want to look at the positive pin in the 510, and center area in the atomizer chamber (there's a silicone insulator where the air comes into the chamber)
If it does meter ok, perhaps the center pin of your battery is down too far and not making contact with the fogger's
If it does meter ok, perhaps the center pin of your battery is down too far and not making contact with the fogger's
- Status
Similar threads
