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*GEM: A new RTA by MarkBugs
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Thanks
I carefully filed my posi screw down a tiny bit and it still shorted so filed a tiny bit more and now it is not shorting.
This is on 28g so quite sure it will short again if I try 26g.
I am not happy to file it any more in case I reduce the screwdriver channel to much and weaken it.
Pray tell, what ohms are you desiring, or, aiming for with 26g?
Yeah, fortunately, I'm a jeweler so I have the tools to recut the slot as needed.
When I get this GEM working, it's quite nice. Intense flavor for sure.
But I've had enough issues that I'm not ready to give it a glowing review.
I would like to complain that there aren't extras of the easiest to lose parts.
I've already lost the rubber nub in the AFC ring. I lost but found after searching the large o-ring from the center post in the top. I've had to fish an o-ring out of a juice bottle because it left with the dropper.
When I get this GEM working, it's quite nice. Intense flavor for sure.
But I've had enough issues that I'm not ready to give it a glowing review.
I would like to complain that there aren't extras of the easiest to lose parts.
I've already lost the rubber nub in the AFC ring. I lost but found after searching the large o-ring from the center post in the top. I've had to fish an o-ring out of a juice bottle because it left with the dropper.
It may be safer/wiser to reduce the size of the rod/bit/screwdriver than to increase the wire size:
5 wraps of 26g on a 2.4mm gives 0.6
4 wraps of 28 on a 2 mm gives 0.7
According to steam-engine.org, n'cest pas?
Just did my 3rd and 4th build on the GEM finding the deck very unforgiving re: space, coil height to base of vapor chamber. It is VERY easy to either fully or partially short. Perhaps less so with Kanthal than Ni 200 but I doubt that...
I do 4~5 wraps of 28 gauge Ni 200 on 2.5mm and never had a problem fitting it in.
After I put in the 2.5mm coil, I cut the wick just a little bit longer than the edge of the deck. If the wick is at all short, I just make sure the wick is even at the top all the way to above the deeper wick channels. The deeper, but shorter wick channels don't need to be stuffed, it's more at the shoulder that you want to ensure enough wick. Also, watch Qorax's video if you haven't already.
Also, just fyi, this is what has caused my Gem to leak or flood:
(a) 25 degree increase in temperature (going from nice, cold AC to agonizing hot outdoor weather), but this will pretty much happen with any Kayfun style atomizer I've had (e.g., my ErlK also crapped out in the face of such adversity).
(b) forgetting to flip the Gem upside down before opening the AFC (a few drops, then it stops)
(c) forgetting to close the AFC when refilling (messy and I felt really stupid)
(d) wicking way too short (it pretty much ended right at the end of the deck, bad idea, didn't work, re-wicked with slightly longer wick and that fixed it).
They are beautiful
Guaranteed he uses s-p-a-c-e-d cos he's a pro.
Heh, only spaced. I'm not a pro, I just steal from the best.
The way I build them is to do an extra wrap on the coil master, stretch out the coil, then squeeze it back together again and give the floating leg a tug to make it all tight. Finally, I remove the rod, let the coil drop out out of the hole, put the coil back on the rod and pull on the leg that was held by the hole to remove the extra wrap. This approach gives compact spaced nickel coils with both legs orthogonal to the coil. Without the unwrap, the leg that was held by the hole won't be orthogonal. If you're coil legs aren't orthogonal, they can cause leverage when placed under the build deck pins that makes the spaced coils move into contact with each other.
I stole that unwrapping technique from a youtube review for a coil master v3 (I was really bored that night).
thats a busardo trick!!!Heh, only spaced. I'm not a pro, I just steal from the best.
The way I build them is to do an extra wrap on the coil master, stretch out the coil, then squeeze it back together again and give the floating leg a tug to make it all tight. Finally, I remove the rod, let the coil drop out out of the hole, put the coil back on the rod and pull on the leg that was held by the hole to remove the extra wrap. This approach gives compact spaced nickel coils with both legs orthogonal to the coil. Without the unwrap, the leg that was held by the hole won't be orthogonal. If you're coil legs aren't orthogonal, they can cause leverage when placed under the build deck pins that makes the spaced coils move into contact with each other.
I stole that unwrapping technique from a youtube review for a coil master v3 (I was really bored that night).
Yep, the stretching and compressing part I did learn from Busardo. Fortunately though, I stole from someone else when it came to wicking the Erlk.
Now I wonder who that might have been...lol!!Yep, the stretching and compressing part I did learn from Busardo. Fortunately though, I stole from someone else when it came to wicking the Erlk.
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