Hmm. I crank the coil screws down pretty hard, leave the 510 screw 0,5mm or so (probably a bit less) out and never had an issue.
R
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*GEM: A new RTA by MarkBugs
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Hmm. I crank the coil screws down pretty hard, leave the 510 screw 0,5mm or so (probably a bit less) out and never had an issue.
R
Never had an issue getting it to read initially or with it fluctuating while mounted or either.
For example .08 build right now I turn the screw out half a turn and it will register .15 then turn again .12 then again .14 then .11.
Once it's on I can see it fluctuate in the way it vapes occasionally t fires super hot. I stop firing the. It is back to normal.
If you screw out or in either way does it change resistance? Also what material are you using and what is the typical build for you. I build on a station that shows .06 5 wraps of nickel and reads .07-.08 in all my mods. I wonder if different wire has less issue.
My boxer is out of commission my ipv d2 battery release broke and was returned the opus 200 never worked with anything consistently and was returned. So all I have left is an I stick tc. Which while it doesn't show the fluctuations actually works as one or the best devices which Is ironic as it's the cheapest mid with the most expensive tank heh
For example .08 build right now I turn the screw out half a turn and it will register .15 then turn again .12 then again .14 then .11.
Once it's on I can see it fluctuate in the way it vapes occasionally t fires super hot. I stop firing the. It is back to normal.
If you screw out or in either way does it change resistance? Also what material are you using and what is the typical build for you. I build on a station that shows .06 5 wraps of nickel and reads .07-.08 in all my mods. I wonder if different wire has less issue.
My boxer is out of commission my ipv d2 battery release broke and was returned the opus 200 never worked with anything consistently and was returned. So all I have left is an I stick tc. Which while it doesn't show the fluctuations actually works as one or the best devices which Is ironic as it's the cheapest mid with the most expensive tank heh
The fluctuations are so small wij kanthal it doesn't matter. Doesn't matter if a .73 build goes to say .77 and back.
I'm sure it fluctuates though. But the jumps in that matter more as a percentage so temp
Control super low builds are more of an issue.
It's one reason I'm trying to get stainless steel to work properly in temp control mode. I believe that will be the perfect match for his tank in temp mode.
Unfortunately right before I loaded my boxer with their new method of wire entry it went out of commission and is now going in for repair.
Stainless tastes the best to my by a landslide anyway.
I'm sure it fluctuates though. But the jumps in that matter more as a percentage so temp
Control super low builds are more of an issue.
It's one reason I'm trying to get stainless steel to work properly in temp control mode. I believe that will be the perfect match for his tank in temp mode.
Unfortunately right before I loaded my boxer with their new method of wire entry it went out of commission and is now going in for repair.
Stainless tastes the best to my by a landslide anyway.
Haven't tried TC yet. And I'd go for a different RTA for that. If I wick my GEM right, why use TC....
R
R
I dont really understand that statement?? TC isnt meant to be a cure for crappy builds!!! And it isnt!
SS will be even worse. Although the resistivity is better than Ti, the TCR is very small. Not sure it will fix the problem to be honest! The fix is perpetually cleaning the 510 pin. However, at some point the silver plate will wear off and it will get even worse I fear...If some spare pins (or indeed any spares) were available from MB directly (as opposed to haveing to put @qorax to a bunch of trouble), it would be helpful but we wait...and we wait...Now he is working on the V2 so I guess we will wait some more.
Let's put it this way - I use my GEM with kanthal on 11-13 W. The battery lasts all day. I get no dry-hits. I get great flavour. I see when the tank is empty and fill it up.
What does one want to achieve with TC?
No dry-hits? - wicking must be right either way. And with good wicking one does not need TC.
Better flavour? - someone would have to explain that to me..
Battery life? - nope, the opposite.
I can see how TC works well on drippers, but on mouth-to-lung flavour RTA's..
Just my 2 Eurocents
R
Let's put it this way - I use my GEM with kanthal on 11-13 W. The battery lasts all day. I get no dry-hits. I get great flavour. I see when the tank is empty and fill it up.
What does one want to achieve with TC?
No dry-hits? - wicking must be right either way. And with good wicking one does not need TC.
Better flavour? - someone would have to explain that to me..
Battery life? - nope, the opposite.
I can see how TC works well on drippers, but on mouth-to-lung flavour RTA's..
Just my 2 Eurocents
R
I dont want to get in an argument about the advantages of TC vs VW or whatever. All I meant was that your post implied that TC was a cure for bad wicking, and with good wicking on a RTA, it was pointless. This isnt true but as I said, lets agree to differ lest we hijack the thread.
No insult intended, @ratizz.Let's put it this way - I use my GEM with kanthal on 11-13 W. The battery lasts all day. I get no dry-hits. I get great flavour. I see when the tank is empty and fill it up.
What does one want to achieve with TC?
No dry-hits? - wicking must be right either way. And with good wicking one does not need TC.
Better flavour? - someone would have to explain that to me..
Battery life? - nope, the opposite.
I can see how TC works well on drippers, but on mouth-to-lung flavour RTA's..
Just my 2 Eurocents
R
You have much to learn about TC/TP and the like. Arguing with you, or attempting to educate you is no one's responsibility but yours.
Until you have the basics of TC under your belt discussing would be a waste of time. Again, no insult intended.
Earlier today I debated with myself as to whether I should post about a GEM build with NiFe48 in the GEM thread or the "TC beyond Ni 200..." thread. Seeing your lack of information tells me I would be wasting my time (and initiating a completely useless argument) by posting about the NiFe48 build for the GEM. For those who might be interested here is a skeleton post:
1. 2.5mm 28awg contact coil,
2. Dry-burn patiently and substantially more slowly than for 24 or 26awg, making the glow until they are "done".
...or torch and pinch the coil first, then burn and tweak as you like when mounted. Thats pretty much what Ive been doing with 48. Works beautifully!
edit: whoops, now I see you rpoint. You are talking about lighter guage right? Even then, I have followed my procedure for 27g which is close!!
I dont want to get in an argument about the advantages of TC vs VW or whatever. All I meant was that your post implied that TC was a cure for bad wicking, and with good wicking on a RTA, it was pointless. This isnt true but as I said, lets agree to differ lest we hijack the thread.
All is good. We're discussing things
I haven't felt the need for TC, therefore haven't given it much thought. But I own a simple TC mod and got some Ni200 and Ti wire too, just to play with it. Haven't done it yet.
Jazz, I'd gladly read your post about NiFe48 in the GEM.
Thanks,
R
If you do, give Ni200 a miss and go for Ti..All is good. We're discussing things
I haven't felt the need for TC, therefore haven't given it much thought. But I own a simple TC mod and got some Ni200 and Ti wire too, just to play with it. Haven't done it yet.
Jazz, I'd gladly read your post about NiFe48 in the GEM.
Thanks,
R
If you do, give Ni200 a miss and go for Ti..
Yes, I'd probably never use the Ni200. I've read a fair amount about TC.. after it was ordered.
Maybe should try SS too. The VTC Mini I've got for fun recently received an SS update (but that update apparently screwed up the old precise way it worked in TC).
If you'd write a few lines on why you use TC, it would be much appreciated.
Regards,
R
Or, give Ti a miss and go directly to NiFe48, none of the risks of Ti and none of the building disadvantages of Ni. [emoji5]If you do, give Ni200 a miss and go for Ti..
I agree with that but he has Ni200 and Ti in hand so I didnt go the extra step !!
Yah the resistance change is lower but the build is significantly higher which I think is what's the issue. The stainless fluctuations probably as a percentage will be far lower and while the stainless curves are probably not as accurate I think as a result of the lesser percentage change it will probably leave fewer issues. That's just a thought. I'll have to test. I don't have w mod working right now that can do stainless
I personally don't like titanium. I've tried three brands and they all taste really metallic and terrible to me.
Fwiw I've been doing temp
Builds a fair bit. Just clarify To others I'm not new to it, nor did I want to cause or participate in an argument. Just some ideas and my experiences with the gem
I personally find temp
Setups province cleaner taste but I love on be edge of what wicking can keep up with for the builds I do. Which means I make sure I don't get any pollution of taste from my wicking material
I'd like to try NiFe but I don't know where to buy it and I need to get the single value for the Yihi chip input.
By the way I have found using coiling tools I have better results getting it right with those rather than heat and pinch. For the gem specifically I tend to get hot legs with the pinched method for some reason and stainless steel at least. If I wrap
Tightly and correctly with the coil tool and do the little rake the screwdriver down my coils
Wind up perfect. I'm
Running contact nickel in there without issue even.
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Selling those wires and ordering NiFe48 shouldn't be a problem
zivipf.de
R
I made the jump because @ratizz is in, or near, Europe, a hop-skip-jump from a prime vendor
How expensive is NiFe is it really that much where you'd have to sell a couple $10 spools of wire
I'm following he link hopefully my heart can take it
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