Not sure the particular tank matters. If I cannot understand what I am screwing up the result will likely not change
It may matter more than you realize. The Protanks are not "rebuildable" but it happens that their construction makes them easy to rebuild if you don't mind tinkering.
With a true rebuildable, there's posts usually with screw terminals which makes it much more fool-proof. No fiddling with insulators or pins. Wrap a coil and screw it down.
They don't show with the hood off, but you might be even better off with one that has holes in the posts to stock the wrote in and then clamp down from above with the screw.
...with one that has holes in the posts to stick the wire in and then clamp down from above with the screw. Things can shift when wrapping around a screw and then tightening it.
Looking at this: https://www.fasttech.com/products/0/10003924/1330500-genesis-style-rebuildable-atomizer-3-5ml
Thinking giving one last shot, but if it doesn't work then I'm done.
I have no idea what this means?
Why do you want a genesis style RBA? They are widely known to be one of the most difficult to set up. What would you think of an RDA like an IGO-L? That would be much easier.
If your protank heads are failing so consistently, there must be something you are doing wrong every time. There are plenty of tutorial videos out there for you to follow and I am sure that is what you are doing, but not quite picking up on some important detail. The other possibility is that your device is not making good contact. What is it by the way? I know you said cgr18650ch earlier, but is it in a mech or something else?
Not sure the particular tank matters. If I cannot understand what I am screwing up the result will likely not change
You said you were interested in rebuildables but could only use 19mm or less.
Those two I found are rebuildables 16mm diameter. They'll fit in your VTR.
Actually true rebuildables with posts and screws or nuts to tighten down your wire; no more messing with rubber grommet and tinneee tinnee coils.
The downside is they're genesis type so they are intended to be used with steel mesh wick and you got to know how to torch your mesh to prevent shorts.
I think that will do you better. Somehow it sounds like your could are starting off correct but then in assembling the tank the connection gets lost. With this cobra you will be able to pop off the top cap and fiddle with the coil without complete disassembly. My only concern is it uses that Allen key and not Phillips. They don't show with the hood off, but you might be even better off with one that has holes in the posts to stock the wrote in and then clamp down from above with the screw. Things can shift when wrapping around a screw and then tightening it.
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I have to use steel mesh? I'm screwed then. I have none and no idea how to use it. Guess I got a couple of more item for the trash....... What a waste of $25
I have to use steel mesh? I'm screwed then. I have none and no idea how to use it. Guess I got a couple of more item for the trash....... What a waste of $25
No you don't have to; and my i-atty from fasttech did come with the mesh and coil etc preassembled already, ready to vape, with extra mesh and wire for rebuilding; you have to read to fine print to see if it come preassembled for you.
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From the looks of that one, I see no mesh inside the tank in the picture, so you get the mesh and wire in the package and you have to put them in.
But I can use yarn or cotton instead of mesh?