Good morning everybody . I'm new and researching ,first mech / build......

[MacTechVpr]

little update

is there a way to keep the battery firm inside the mech ?

I was minding that since the button works without issues I could work in a way to make it more stable ?
...

that would be adding a micro layer of -non conductive material- thickness on the inside of the mech..?

I know you will suggest not to do it .. that is dangerous (?)..

but what can go wrong : the 2 poles would be the same distance from the +and-pins.. .. even if the battery moves less, it can always touch only 1 pin at a time when button is not pressed.. so.. is there anything that can go wrong with a firmer battery ?

Reconnoiter through your stash for any o-rings wide enough to avoid the pin of your button and thick enough to hold your battery up. Too thick or jiggly and it may interfere with or impede the switch's pin reaching the battery neg.

Good luck.

 

[bood]

@Ben85not a rattle as the inside of the mech is covered in plastic .. but definitely I can feel the battery moving a little .dont know if I am supposed to fix this movement or not

@MacTechVapr what if it stops completely the battery ( i.e. against the atomizer +pin )?

 

[Baditude]

@Ben85not a rattle as the inside of the mech is covered in plastic .. but definitely I can feel the battery moving a little .dont know if I am supposed to fix this movement or not

...what if it stops completely the battery ( i.e. against the atomizer +pin )?

One thing that I'd be careful about is to not block off any air space to the vent holes. I didn't read back to see what mech you have. Most mechs have a vent hole(s) in the fire button at the bottom of the mod. batteries are designed to vent from the positive end (top). Therefore you don't want to block off air space from the top of the battery down to the bottom vent hole.

Below, you can see that the battery is blocking any air space to the bottom of the mod. Should a battery vent, the gas expelled from the battery can not escape and the metal tube becomes a pipe bomb.

A Beginner's Guide to Your First Mechanical Mod

 

[bood]

@Baditude the mech is a Trinity US1; vent holes are on top just under the atomizer . I wouldn't close them , in any case , of course

 

[stols001]

Well, if you are modding your mod, might I suggest (if it's possible) to place a vent hole in the bottom of the mod, since that's where they really should be to do less damage to your face.... Just a thought, I might be more concerned about that than a slight battery rattle.

Of course, neither is ideal, so I'd say go ahead with your plan if you feel it might be useful and I'm sure if I'm wrong someone will be along to say so, hopefully....

Anna

 

[Baditude]

@Baditude the mech is a Trinity US1; vent holes are on top just under the atomizer . I wouldn't close them , in any case , of course

Ouch!! Your first mech mod and you've chosen a direct battery mod (often misnamed a "hybrid" mod). Generally not recommended for beginners. You do hopefully know that you must use juice attachments which have an extended center pin in the 510 connector. Never use an attachment without the extended center pin or you will cause a hard short and vent the battery.

Good points with the Trinity1 is that it does have vent holes at the top, delrin strips in the battery compartment, and a recessed bottom fire button. Take the advice of the reviewer below; when transporting the mod in your pocket, unscrew the mod a couple turns to break the battery circuit to prevent an accidental firing.



Please be careful. A direct battery mechanical mod would not be my first choice for a beginner to mechs.

 

[bood]

@ Baditude the atomizer has a protruded pin and I was aware it has to extend beyond and down . Sure I can " feel " the direct contact , and rattle apart I'm definitely not fond of the free space involved in such mechanism

What mech would you suggest if any ( possibily a clean solid design )

 

[bood]

unscrew the mod a couple turns to break the battery circuit to prevent an accidental firing.

I guess more then a couple unscrews are needed if the aim is to prevent any accidental fire, nevertheless the button doesn't function bad or like it get stuck

 

[Baditude]

Well, if you are modding your mod, might I suggest (if it's possible) to place a vent hole in the bottom of the mod, since that's where they really should be to do less damage to your face.

As I pointed out earlier, batteries are mechanically designed to vent from the top (+ end). This allows the build up of gas to escape the cell and hopefully prevent the battery itself from exploding. The side effect is this build up of gas needs a way to escape the enclosed metal tube of the mod or it becomes a pipe bomb.

Probably the reason why most mech mod designers have vent holes in the bottom (if they have them at all). However, as pointed out in my first pic in my first post, if the battery compartment has tight quarters there may not be enough space between the battery and mod sidewalls to allow the gas to get to the vent holes to escape. In this scenario, there might as well be no vent holes at all because the gas can not escape.

The Trinity US1 does have adequate air space in the battery compartment due to the delrin strips , but because of the design of the fire button I myself wouldn't attempt to drill holes there. The owner could have holes placed near the bottom of the mod body but would need a machinist with a drill press, but that likely would ruin the appearance of the admittedly beautiful mod. It is extremely difficult to drill holes in a round metal tube with a hand drill so do not attempt it -- a drill press is needed. I believe the top air holes will be fully adequate. There is little chance of getting facial burns should a venting occur in this particular instance. There would be signs that a venting is about to occur such as the mod becoming hot to touch, the fire button becoming hot to touch, etc. The one thing that bothers me is the fact that this mod is a direct battery mod and needs an extended center pin to function safely.

 

[Baditude]

@ Baditude the atomizer has a protruded pin and I was aware it has to extend beyond and down . Sure I can " feel " the direct contact , and rattle apart I'm definitely not fond of the free space involved in such mechanism

Good that you are aware.
I'm not sure what I would do about the rattle problem. Maybe try to ignore it.

What mech would you suggest if any ( possibily a clean solid design )

I'm not aware of any mech currently in production which would meet all of my requirements. I have two Silver Bullets which meet my requirements but unfortunately it is no longer in production.

Features that I would look for are:

• Ventilation air holes located near the top of the battery where venting occurs. Mech Mods with top venting holes?
• "Recessed" fire button (side or bottom) decreases the chance of accidentally firing the button in a pocket.
• Locking mechanism for the fire button to prevent accidental firing in a pocket.
• Utilizes a "hot spring" which collapses when the battery gets hot enough, breaking the electrical circuit from the battery and atomizer. Pretty rare these days.
• Has a compartment to fit a mod fuse to limit the possibility of a battery hard short. Some mechs have an extension tube or are "telescopic" allowing for extra space in the battery compartment for a mod fuse.

You most likely won't find anything that has all of the above. That's the reason that I pretty much only use a dependable regulated mod which has protection circuitry built in.

 

[MacTechVpr]

@Ben85not a rattle as the inside of the mech is covered in plastic .. but definitely I can feel the battery moving a little .dont know if I am supposed to fix this movement or not

@MacTechVapr what if it stops completely the battery ( i.e. against the atomizer +pin )?

You're placing the o-ring merely on top of the button switch housing. This serves to minimize battery travel by pushing the batt up toward to top hat or cap of the mech. If anything, it may expose less of the pin above the height of the o-ring when you fire. I should add that if the resulting contact isn't solid enough atty output may seem anemic; if so, it may perform like a loose connection and turn slightly bitter. However, if done right you should see more solid contact and improved vaporization with the battery stable and better oriented in relation to the button.

I know, I know…there's gonna be the doubters and skeptics. Forget 'em. As you know, I am ever mindful of strain and how it relates to conductivity. You're presenting a stable flat surface is all at just the right contact pressure. A design example of this is the adjustable threaded delrin ring intregal to the button housing of some mods like the Ciento for example. Frankly, o-rings work better.

Stock up on the few widths and diameter that allow you variability and use 'em wherever they help. You'll thank yourself. Unlike expensive silver and gold adjustable contacts we all love-hate, o-rings are cheap and just work!

Troubleshooting: Mech fails to fire. O-ring wrinkles, dislodges, rides the pin, etc. Just pick another size. You've got a bunch of 'em.

Caution: As noted per @Baditude above, be sure the o-ring doesn't block any vent holes. Usually the o-ring need only be no wider than the battery used.

Good luck.

 

[bwh79]

Well, if you are modding your mod, might I suggest (if it's possible) to place a vent hole in the bottom of the mod, since that's where they really should be to do less damage to your face.... Just a thought, I might be more concerned about that than a slight battery rattle.

Vent holes should be near the battery's positive end so that, in case of battery swelling during a "thermal incident," it doesn't block off the venting gas's exit route and, in most tube mechs, the battery should be oriented positive-up, because reasons:

Unfortunately, this does usually mean that the vent holes are (or rather should be) right underneath the top cap. Hot gas in the face might not sound like your idea of a relaxing afternoon, but the alternative is a shrapnel bomb which could really ruin your plans for the evening.

 

[bood]

@MacTechVpr an o-ring is yet there from factory ( in the very top of the housing / only one there)
I guess that this is the reason for how hard I have to press to make a contact (?), I would prefer a softer touch

the button by the way can be recessed screwing the inside 'negative' pin , and the fire lenght shortens this way ;
i was referring more to a side and whole space rattle? (not quantum physic involvement)

+ a fresh build of mine, using ss 316l

@Baditude

wonder what can go wrong.. ?

thank you both very much for giving support ..
it's vital to have someone with knowledge and experience that can assist, i.e. a newcomer and newbie as I am

 

[MacTechVpr]

i was referring more to a side and whole space rattle?

Don't have time to take pic's today. The purpose of the oring on top of the switch is to take up the gap, the battery travel.

Just to clarify as I think you get it (others, he, mebe?).

You already may have a delrin or oring installed spacer in the switch (made that way). It's just not high enough or thick enough to take up the gap…it varies given your battery and mod combination.

Placing another on top takes up the gap, and…this has the effect of squaring up the battery to both pos and neg pin. So it also traps the battery from movement, up or sideways.

Bang. Better hit. No rattle.

This may not be viable in all situations. The firing pin (neg) pin may not have enough length or travel to get above the edge of the added oring width to contact the batt negative (you're going to have to live with the rattle). Or, you may block venting (not a good idea).

Simple solution. Does work. Designed that way it seems in your mod. Just not thick enough.

Good luck.

 

[bood]

it seems to me that the o-ring ( atop of the battery housing / mech ) is preventing a softer fire ( softer then what I'm used now.. = more normal, i guess so ) ,
and is giving fails too in case I'm too soft
-or in a wrong or casual handling position to fire , so that eventually the pressure is not enough to squeeze the ring (?) and to get the +batterypole to make a contact.....

ps,just hypotesis of a newbie

and/or..are you saying to try to put an o ring bottom and/or around the battery too?

Bang. Better hit. No rattle.

I guess the rattle I'm more concerned is not vertical ..I can leave with the battery going up and down as its very likely that for most of the part of the time I use and transport the mech , it remains vertical.

but..
on the vertical dimension , I would like to solve the fact that is needs an hard press , too hard in many occasion on the go , sure nothing I can do while walking

 

[bood]

in other words it seems to me that the pre-installed o-ring prevents a good contact in some situations
the reason may be it is too thick , or it is too hard / or the atomizer pin too short

just hypotesis

(ps: shoud remove it? ..and try ..later or tomorrow maybe )

 

[MacTechVpr]

in other words it seems to me that the pre-installed o-ring prevents a good contact in some situations
the reason may be it is too thick , or it is too hard / or the atomizer pin too short

just hypotesis

(ps: shoud remove it? ..and try ..later or tomorrow maybe )

Pretty much what you should consider. Because producers have to account for longest likely batt size. Have a few mods where the factory o-ring or delrin base for the batt is too short…for that particular battery brand. Remember battery dimensions may vary sometimes significantly from maker to maker (reskinned too). Part of the hassle, challenge, fun of workin' mechs.

Good luck.

 

[bood]

@MacTechVpr I will see if it is glued or not ..
once discovered this and solved this issue,
I will have to think about eliminating the side rattle

@MacTechVpr on the other hand I've been building down to 0.5Ohm in double coil configuration, and the results .. they are not bad just very far from a Justfog pen cig .. Ramp up (heating) time takes forever .. vapor is not very much... flavor is pretty good and much preferable to what the Justfog pen any voltage offers
I do not like hot vapes , but I will try 0.50/0.40 ohm x 2 , to see if a 0.25Ohm configuration with shorter coils is a change in the right direction
then I have 2 alien demon coils coming later this month , will compare also those two , to my "standard" ss316l rolled coils

 

[bood]

update

so I removed the o-ring that was atop and everything is better .
Maybe not as safe (?).

About the rattle: I bought some o-rings and while they stay perfectly atop , bottom and around the battery , I feel more convenient a lil piece of paper between battery and housing, this way the mechanism is still fluid , battery not stuck and side rattle completely gone .

Now if I put an o-ring at the base bottom of the housing the battery stays always in pin+ contact ( unlike before ) and the mech hits better ..
wasn't like this before , it was both contacts off on idle ...any thoughts?

 

[bood]

@MacTechVpr

View attachment 699727

I have switched to ss316l because kanthal 1ohm down to 0.5 (in double coils configuration)was too slow to heat.

I've found in 1 - 2 weeks of use that I love the flavor much better when the vapor is cool and not too much ( I dont mind about big clouds ) , but ramp up time has to go down more .. I will have to finish the tank and then switch from 0.4/0.5 to 0.2 ohm , I'd like to do it now since I'm home and have time but the tank is full and actually I cant figure a way to empty it into the juice bottle

Other note..
Apart first contact and getting used to it in the beginning , the device leaked nothing in these 2 weeks.. Very happy about it.. I didnt expect 100%dry operations , but bought this particular atomizer also for this reason it's actually working for the time and situations its been used and travelled up to now