Good morning everybody . I'm new and researching ,first mech / build......

[MacTechVpr]

update

so I removed the o-ring that was atop end everything is better . About the rattle: I bought some o-rings and while they stay perfectly atop , bottom and around the battery , I feel more convenient a lil piece of paper between battery and housing, this way the mechanism is still fluid ss before battery not stuck and 'side rattle' completly gone .
Now f I put an o-ring at the base bottom of the housing the battery stays always in pin+ contact ( unlike before ) and the mech hits better .Wasn't like this before , it was both contacts off on idle .
Any thoughts?
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I've had to do that with a few mods. It's often not a good idea. It tends to skew the battery and prevent a solid contact. But, told you so, you're already pretty squared up getting that. Good job. Given that, I'm having trouble understanding how there's any rattle when you've got the battery well fixed in place. I wonder if it's the darn sleeve??? Anyway, some progress. Appreciate your diligence.

If you're determined (and you've got venting somewhere) affixing some thin smooth electrical tape (at top or bottom, on the inside of the sleeve or outside it between it and the tube) may take up the slack or deaden the rattle. Just a thought. Be careful tho it doesn't get the batt stuck up in there. Just enough to do the job.

Good luck.

 

[bood]

so.. its ok to have battery always in +contact?(against the atomizer pin)

 

[MacTechVpr]

@MacTechVpr
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I have switched to ss316l because kanthal 1ohm in double coils was too slow to heat.

I've found in 1 - 2 weeks of use that I love the flavor much better when the vapor is cool and not too much ( I dont mind about big clouds ) , but ramp up time has to go down more .. I will have to finish the tank and then switch from 0.8/1 to 0.4/0.5 ohm , I'd like to do it now since I'm home and have time but the tank is full and actually I cant figure a way to empty it into the juice bottle

Other note..
Apart first contact and getting used to it in the beginning , the device leaked nothing in these 2 weeks.. Very happy about it.. I didnt expect 100%dry operations , but bought this particular atomizer also for this reason it's actually working for the time and situations its been used and travelled up to now

Good job. We've got to pay our dues, no question.



These 3 pics of twisted lead parallel tensioned m.c.'s were taken at 3fps on an iPhone. Kanthal doesn't lag when properly strained balanced and oxidized. Buried in this forum are countless confirmations and opinions affirming this by folks far more learned than myself on the physics and electrical aspects. Seldom are they referenced. The proof is in the image.

Spaced coils and particularly asymmetrical ones will tend to diffuse the vape, not produce more vapor. Concentration of power, like sunlight in a magnifier, increases the vaporization rate. You have then less diffusion. So what you're referring to is real not more vapor but less vaporization. Balancing the strain in wire is about optimizing oxidation and ultimately the rate of vaporization.

Twisted Lead Parallel (t.m.c.)

• MacTechVpr
• Oct 20, 2017

Tensioned Micro Coil, 25AWG

I do mine on a pin vise for thin wire and single gauges. These days I've got to go to the hand drill for most chunky winds. LMK when you're ready.

Good luck.

 

[bood]

These 3 pics of twisted lead parallel tensioned m.c.'s were taken at 3fps on an iPho

Sounds enormously faster then what I've experienced. Wonder if double coil + 10/12wraps + mech operations doesnt kill the deal.

 

[MacTechVpr]

so.. its ok to have battery always in +contact?(against the atomizer pin)

It's ok if you have adequate isolation of the switch contact pin at the bottom. The design of the switch should take care of that. Some switches can be adjusted and expose too much of the bottom pin. You need to examine the function of the switch carefully and see that it adequately recesses. Adding the o-ring provides additional isolation or distance between the switch pin and batt bottom. Always, always…good to check the mechanical function of the arrangement.

Good luck.

p.s. Gotta run, it's late for me, but with s.s. you're prolly better off trying to build tight spaced like on a screw driver or carefully on a known diameter bit. All wire goes hot in contact if not oxidized. And yes, that will certainly increase the rate of vapor diffusion (heating of the vapor after the fact).

 

[MacTechVpr]

Sounds enormously faster then what I've experienced. Wonder if double coil + 10/12wraps + mech operations doesnt kill the deal.

Well, that's 'cause it is. Nite bro. G'luck.

 

[bood]

It's ok if you have adequate isolation of the switch contact pin at the bottom. fact).

With the added o-ring at the bottom ? It seems to me that, absolutely, the parts are isolated .
I wonder if all mechs have this configuration or not (+pin always in contact )as the hit is much better

 

[Ben85]

With the added o-ring at the bottom ? It seems to me that, absolutely, the parts are isolated .
I wonder if all mechs have this configuration or not (+pin always in contact )as the hit is much better

Not sure if I have misunderstood your question here or not, but the vast majority of mechs are designed so that the positive is always in contact with the 510 pin.

 

[MacTechVpr]

With the added o-ring at the bottom ? It seems to me that, absolutely, the parts are isolated .
I wonder if all mechs have this configuration or not (+pin always in contact )as the hit is much better

Not sure if I have misunderstood your question here or not, but the vast majority of mechs are designed so that the positive is always in contact with the 510 pin.

Well we'd hope. No one likes battery rattle. They try through the use of integrated delrin spacers at the switch housing, adjustable pos pins, etc. to account for minute variations in batt dimensions. Often the battery rests just shy of contact (w/pos). Perhaps not enough to rattle. Performance may be much improved tho if the battery is squared up and stationary.

Good luck.

 

[bood]

Not sure if I have misunderstood your question here or not, but the vast majority of mechs are designed so that the positive is always in contact with the 510 pin.

glad to know ..

take into account I'm new into mechs : this is my only device , my first device , never had one before.. so it is very likely that I still do not know a lot of things about them;

mind also that before yesterday inspection and "modifications" my battery was normally off the 2pins , so that when I pressed the button , battery had to get negative pin contact first , top o-ring contact second , atomizer pin contact third , in order to hit . This was from factory , it took some time to guess it's not normal / or at least that it just didn't give easy "normal" operation with my current battery size .. I could vape before too , so ..I did not find it completely unusual

Anyhow:
now it's just negative pin contact and all works abit better faster and a not moving battery is a plus ( but having the battery always against the top , of course blocks vents )
this was I'm able to vape on the go and without finding the right position as a normal press will produce a hit 100% of cases of so - which did not happen before yesterday really

@stols001

Anna , I'm about to try to add 10% distilled water to 1 of my juices .. what should I expect ?

 

[stols001]

I found (surprise!) an airier AND more flavorful vape, and my coils last longer. My tanks no longer heat up, even if I chain-vape (I tried it to see). Oh trust me, I started this recommended practice quite begrudgingly and certain my vape would be worse, it's not placebo.

Make sure you shake well before use and if you are steeping your juices, I'd advise either not steeping with the top off, or adding the water after you are done steeping with top off, then give it a few more days.

Great vape, seriously, and I was quite shocked. Very pleased with how it's working out it almost every single direction.

So, enjoy!

Anna

 

[Ben85]

In simple terms, the battery shouldn’t move at all when the button is pressed. If it is moving, either something is not adjusted correctly, or you have been unlucky to find a mix that is not the best compatibility wise. If you end up not being able to stop that battery having to rise and fall in the tube, I’d be inclined to not use it. A moving battery could lead to a split battery wrapper.

 

[bood]

@stols001 I'm adding it on the "idea" that I like a better cooler flavor ..(even less dense would be good to me ); ..?

@Ben85 , now the battery doesn't move.
Of course yesterday and before I didn't know at all the battery shouldn't have to travel vertically when pushing the button ...., and in fact it travelled vertically to get the +contact.
Not now.
And : vent holes are not free now.( battery is up against the +pin )

@anyone : do you know how to get :
-vapor of course ( but I'm interested in flavor not at all in clouds )
-cool temperature
-fast ramp up time
-no chain-vape

 

[stols001]

Less dense yes, and definitely cooler. I like to run TC sometimes but I imagine I will always vape some drop in coils and I do find that recommendation really works, it puts me at ease as I find it pretty similar to my TC vaping (and I vape at cooler temps, I prefer it) so that kind of eases up my mind. I wish more folks would read that thread, there are tons of great recommendations not just "use TC" though it did get me into RTAs faster, though it's really only lately I'm having success with them more consistently...

Anna

 

[MacTechVpr]

Sounds enormously faster then what I've experienced. Wonder if double coil + 10/12wraps + mech operations doesnt kill the deal.

The res for s.s. is very similar to Kanthal. Keeping it tightly symmetrical should improve performance making the vape and its operation cooler. However, based on my read on the science the thermal output is more effective with Kanthal.

Here for ex, the spec on my above TLP wind…

24x2P 8/7 Ø2.8mm=.1812Ω 23.2A|97.4W

Actually with Kanthal (and that's ceramic wicking) this builds about the same or cooler apparent temperature than what I start most folks on drippers with. Just very productive, dense and yes, flavorful. When you get there, let us know. Gotta get my day started but play around with options for your .4mm(?) at your target wattage. Target about 25% of batt amps (~15A) or less if you're not quite there yet. Give yourself plenty of headroom and you can chain this hard.

Good luck.

 

[bood]

yes it is 26g (0.4mm)

the res for s.s. is very similar to Kanthal. Keeping it tightly symmetrical should improve performance making the vape and its operation cooler. However, based on my read on the science the thermal output is more effective with Kanthal.

and as-fast ramp time ?

Here for ex, the spec on my above TLP wind…

24x2P 8/7 Ø2.8mm=.1812Ω 23.2A|97.4W

ok . I have 26g.. should I go that low (0.18)?
not afraid of anything , just minding the heat.. I dont like dense + hot vape ..I prefer flavor ..btw not sure I like the re-condensation of liquid flavor on the tongue

 

[MacTechVpr]

yes it is 26g (0.4mm)

and as-fast ramp time ?


ok . I have 26g.. should I go that low (0.18)?
not afraid of anything , just minding the heat.. I dont like dense + hot vape ..I prefer flavor ..btw not sure I like the re-condensation of liquid flavor on the tongue

No don't start there — 15A on 3mm should get you to slightly >60W which is about equiv to app temp on a variable of perhaps 37.5W. Depends on your builds details like lead length, how tight, slightly spaced or t.m.c. The latter can seem like a 30W build in app temp with a similar increase in density.

Really must go but let may say this. It's not just about the watts or amps. Rather the manner or how well we distribute that heat. The more wetted contact surface relative to power, the better. This assumes you have enough power to support it (the opposite of diffusion). In other words…What's the most performance I can get out of this surface area in terms of vaporization?…for any given build. So subject to amp limits, you target max power (or volts) for a mech. Perhaps you like the middle ground. Then you will certainly find it as the batt V's drop during use. Somewhere in there you will find your great vape. Then you stagger things, adjust the voltage range, in one direction or another with your build to give yourself the max time in that zone.

Good luck.

 

[bood]

I guess I yet experienced that.. voltage drop = better flavor.., and built a long ss coil in order to try to get cooler vapes with bigger surface + faster ramp time..
I still have slow ramp time (not dramatically slow.. as before , 3seconds max ) and a too dense and too hot vape & too dense flavor too i think so ( wich I find artificial and definitely not pleasant as the low V flavor )

 

[MacTechVpr]

I guess I yet experienced that.. voltage drop = better flavor.., and built a long ss coil in order to try to get cooler vapes with bigger surface + faster ramp time..
I still have slow ramp time (not dramatically slow.. as before , 3seconds max ) and a too dense and too hot vape & too dense flavor too i think so ( wich I find artificial and definitely not pleasant as the low V flavor )

What resistance are you getting? Specs. Curious.

With parallels you should be getting a hotter airier vape. Opposite of what described. Are both sides firing evenly? That's more what it sounds like. This would force more power through one coil and resulting in a hot and wet bitter vape with sluggish miserable output. An indicator is one coil's wick (or section, end) soiling faster than the other (which would tend to happen rather quickly if there's a big diff in output). If not balanced, make sure connects are solid and pull wicks, dry fire until they are.

Good luck.

 

[MacTechVpr]

@bood contact parallels are hard even for experienced vapers using Kanthal. Have very little experience with them in s.s. other than sampling on builds by others. The consensus generally I get from TC users and frequent posts here is that they're to be avoided. There's a reason for that. They're hard to get right and…they tend to run hot. Not so strained Kanthal TLP's (like posted above). They make up the bulk of builds I do for others these days. We'll get to it if you like. But first I'd like to see you arrive at a good standard build parallel or otherwise that just works for you. The lower power, adequate density controlled vape you very well described earlier in your bullet points, I know can be achieved.

Good luck.