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Well, I'll give my locking ring on my SS 2.5 some time then, as mine can be quite stubborn, as well.
The entire bottom cap has a tendency to unscrew itself when I try to lock the button. Regardless, of how lightly I turn the ring up into the firing position, when I go to lock it, it usually sticks tight.
- Andy
The entire bottom cap has a tendency to unscrew itself when I try to lock the button. Regardless, of how lightly I turn the ring up into the firing position, when I go to lock it, it usually sticks tight.
- Andy
Perseas, I don't know if crunchy is the proper term for mine, but it is definitely not very smooth when turning the locking ring. You can hear it scrapping throughout the travel.
- Andy
I finally have the GP Paps V2.5 that I've been wanting for quite some time.
HUGE thanks to the Team at Vapour Art. I feel like I owe it to them for not only owning one of these beauties myself, but making my experience with them a memorable one. Like many here have said -- these folks go above and beyond. No doubt.
Really dig this setup. The Paps works flawlessly -- just as good as my other MOD that is worth twice as much. The adjustability of the center pin works great on all my other atomizers. I love the clean design approach as it makes this setup look like a hybrid device. The craftsmanship is great as many who have seen it are floored by it's beauty.
I'm already thinking of my next purchase. Got my sights set on another GP Paps and a Spheroid.
Thanks again Vapour Art! I'll be back.
HUGE thanks to the Team at Vapour Art. I feel like I owe it to them for not only owning one of these beauties myself, but making my experience with them a memorable one. Like many here have said -- these folks go above and beyond. No doubt.
Really dig this setup. The Paps works flawlessly -- just as good as my other MOD that is worth twice as much. The adjustability of the center pin works great on all my other atomizers. I love the clean design approach as it makes this setup look like a hybrid device. The craftsmanship is great as many who have seen it are floored by it's beauty.
I'm already thinking of my next purchase. Got my sights set on another GP Paps and a Spheroid.
Thanks again Vapour Art! I'll be back.
To ensure that the switch is tight screwed during lock-unlock you have to change battery from above and make sure that when you screw the top cap, the switch is already well screwed and you put a certain amount of pressure to the battery via the correct length of the telescopic centre post. In that way, the lock-unlock function won't interfere with rest of the switch.
This is not right, send me an email.
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So, now the question is do I wait for one of these or find a tip to go on my IBT/Paps? Thoughts? Suggestions?
And does the SnP come with any tip(s)? Can't seem to find any mention of it in the description.
Very well explained!
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Ps.: As reg. the 'oil', I yet opine that 'one drop', a teeny-weeny tiny small lit'l drop of the thinnest oil, does help with some adamant switches.
Did all that, that's how I got it to not fire when it's locked as it did when brand-new.
The nut is cup-side down. Tried both springs, mounted both ways.
I don't overtighten the ring. I've only had it a week.
Thanks, though. I emailed Perseas.
Thank you very very much all of you guys, I find your support really moving
Be sure buddy, that nobody in this thread will stop assisting the others, until every issue has been resolved. This is the spirit here
As I replied to your email, at the end of the coming week, we shall have ready switches, so I'll be able to send you the replacement parts, and your switch will be working perfectly.
Boss Perseas,
Today I had an epiphany of sorts and got to thinking while I was hitting the Spheroid...One thing I realized is that is is impossible to burn the juice inside the device. As much as I use it, I realized that this when I was chain vaping the Kayfun and noticed my juice was getting darker and tasted like shti. The Spheroid can not wick too much, no gurgling and no dry hits unless you vape it dry.
No burnt vapes no burnt juice. Just another point we should realize.
Be well Brother P and all.
Today I had an epiphany of sorts and got to thinking while I was hitting the Spheroid...One thing I realized is that is is impossible to burn the juice inside the device. As much as I use it, I realized that this when I was chain vaping the Kayfun and noticed my juice was getting darker and tasted like shti. The Spheroid can not wick too much, no gurgling and no dry hits unless you vape it dry.
No burnt vapes no burnt juice. Just another point we should realize.
Be well Brother P and all.
Sure it doesn't iDbro! I had that epiphany too. However, I also find so doesn't the Kayfun Lite and the SnP with a Diver inside, besides giving us some superb vape quality. Which is the reason I'm onto 'replacing' all my attys with these three... The Spheroid, The K-Lite and the SnP+Diver combo... all [nearly]similarly priced and perform astoundingly for the money!
The Kfuns will burn juice as bad as any due to it bringing the juice into the evap chamber getting warm or hot and running back down the well into the tank. It is not as common, as the tank works under the assumption of a steady pressure within the tank but, when one chain vapes or hits it long and hard on occasion it will potentially burn or get dirty. I poured out 2.5 mm or so of nastiness last night before I broke it down and rinsed out.
One other fact to point is that the coil is surrounded by a METAL(hint hint) chamber that is tiny and as that heats the juice that surrounds it heats as well and will break the juice down and slowly will cook it.
This is also very typical of a genesis style tank with ss mesh as, the juice is sent up the wick and the coil warms the mesh(conductor)it then wicks back down into the tank.
One other fact to point is that the coil is surrounded by a METAL(hint hint) chamber that is tiny and as that heats the juice that surrounds it heats as well and will break the juice down and slowly will cook it.
This is also very typical of a genesis style tank with ss mesh as, the juice is sent up the wick and the coil warms the mesh(conductor)it then wicks back down into the tank.
This just steeps the juice better
But as I said once, and I'll say it again... The Spheroid is by far the best atty that I've tried. Also the easiest to set up. You don't have to put the juice back into it's bottle when you're changing coils.
I've tried and owned a few genesis atty's, also an GG Ody. For me, the Spheroid is better and easier to handle then those. Haven't tried a Kayfun...yet I'm gonna order one next week.
But as I said once, and I'll say it again... The Spheroid is by far the best atty that I've tried. Also the easiest to set up. You don't have to put the juice back into it's bottle when you're changing coils.
I've tried and owned a few genesis atty's, also an GG Ody. For me, the Spheroid is better and easier to handle then those. Haven't tried a Kayfun...yet
I'm gonna order one next week.
Ok guys update on my switches. I disassembled the switches on both my GP-SS and GP-Lux. Remarkably easy to do with some forceps if you just remember to turn in the correct direction. Tip: if it doesn't start coming off immediately you're turning the wrong way.
I found a bunch of previously spilt juice in the internals of both switches between the locking mechanism and the switch body. I easily cleaned it off with water and then with some ispropyl alcohol for good measure. Then I put them back together. Clean and firing beautifully!
Now I'm left with a problem. The GP-SS will fire when I set it down on an uneven surface. If I put it on a wooden desk, it's fine. If I set a paper towel on the desk and set the GP-SS on top of it, it fires! Wow that's strange. The GP-Lux set down on the paper towel doesn't fire.
I'm not sure how to increase the recess on the button. The nut on the top of the switch, with the concave facing down, doesn't want to travel at all after being attached.
Not sure if you can make it out in this pic but the button protrudes a bit from the switch where on my Lux switch, it's a bit recessed.
I found a bunch of previously spilt juice in the internals of both switches between the locking mechanism and the switch body. I easily cleaned it off with water and then with some ispropyl alcohol for good measure. Then I put them back together. Clean and firing beautifully!
Now I'm left with a problem. The GP-SS will fire when I set it down on an uneven surface. If I put it on a wooden desk, it's fine. If I set a paper towel on the desk and set the GP-SS on top of it, it fires! Wow that's strange. The GP-Lux set down on the paper towel doesn't fire.
I'm not sure how to increase the recess on the button. The nut on the top of the switch, with the concave facing down, doesn't want to travel at all after being attached.
Not sure if you can make it out in this pic but the button protrudes a bit from the switch where on my Lux switch, it's a bit recessed.
Thank you very very much all of you guys, I find your support really moving
Be sure buddy, that nobody in this thread will stop assisting the others, until every issue has been resolved. This is the spirit here
As I replied to your email, at the end of the coming week, we shall have ready switches, so I'll be able to send you the replacement parts, and your switch will be working perfectly.
Thank you so much, I really appreciate the quick service. Waiting a week or so isn't an issue; I just want it to work right.
If 18500 lux tubes are coming soon, I'd be willing to wait and purchase one of those to save shipping on the switch parts.
Read a few posts up until you get to my quoted post explaining the nut on the back of the switch. The original is on previous page. GLOk guys update on my switches. I disassembled the switches on both my GP-SS and GP-Lux. Remarkably easy to do with some forceps if you just remember to turn in the correct direction. Tip: if it doesn't start coming off immediately you're turning the wrong way.
I found a bunch of previously spilt juice in the internals of both switches between the locking mechanism and the switch body. I easily cleaned it off with water and then with some ispropyl alcohol for good measure. Then I put them back together. Clean and firing beautifully!
Now I'm left with a problem. The GP-SS will fire when I set it down on an uneven surface. If I put it on a wooden desk, it's fine. If I set a paper towel on the desk and set the GP-SS on top of it, it fires! Wow that's strange. The GP-Lux set down on the paper towel doesn't fire.
I'm not sure how to increase the recess on the button. The nut on the top of the switch, with the concave facing down, doesn't want to travel at all after being attached.
Not sure if you can make it out in this pic but the button protrudes a bit from the switch where on my Lux switch, it's a bit recessed.
The threaded post should def protrude the nut about .5m or so. This sucks the button up into locking ring.
Look at your lux LUX nut and post. Sounds to be threaded correctly by the description.
Look at your lux LUX nut and post. Sounds to be threaded correctly by the description.
Ok guys update on my switches. I disassembled the switches on both my GP-SS and GP-Lux. Remarkably easy to do with some forceps if you just remember to turn in the correct direction. Tip: if it doesn't start coming off immediately you're turning the wrong way.
I found a bunch of previously spilt juice in the internals of both switches between the locking mechanism and the switch body. I easily cleaned it off with water and then with some ispropyl alcohol for good measure. Then I put them back together. Clean and firing beautifully!
Now I'm left with a problem. The GP-SS will fire when I set it down on an uneven surface. If I put it on a wooden desk, it's fine. If I set a paper towel on the desk and set the GP-SS on top of it, it fires! Wow that's strange. The GP-Lux set down on the paper towel doesn't fire.
I'm not sure how to increase the recess on the button. The nut on the top of the switch, with the concave facing down, doesn't want to travel at all after being attached.
Not sure if you can make it out in this pic but the button protrudes a bit from the switch where on my Lux switch, it's a bit recessed.
Ι understand what you mean, but it is hard to be shown in a photo, because we are speaking for 0,05 - 0,07 mm.
You have 2 solutions, which may conclude to be one:
1) You increase the concave opening in the holding nut, just a bit with a dremel and then, you sand down a bit the firing pin. Something can go wrong and then I send you a new button.
2) I send you a new button now.
I find that resting the Lux on any surface that isn't flat and hard will make it fire. If I am not mistaken, this is to be expected, as the button has a very small trigger travel. I like this, speaks to the engineering and manufacturing precision. Besides, it makes me aware of where I set it to stand, as any surface that will make it fire will increase the chance that it will tip over - and that is anathema.
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