You can just make it yourself - u need a standard Spheroid, a standard Lux, and standard Photoshop
... will they be available?!
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This happens occasionally when batteries are changed from the top or the atty has to be removed to fill. Otherwise, they seem to stay in place for me. I just tighten the larger screw just barley enough so there is no battery rattle. If the are pressed hard on the battery it may affect the switch throw and performance.
Just returned from a short vacation and was happy to see my GP order in.
First my initial impressions:
I popped a battery into the Paps 2.5 SS, worked straight of out the box. Everything screws in nicely even without any cleaning (which I intend to do during the weekend). The firing button is truly a charm to activate and could easily be mistaken for a touch-button style unit as many of you have said before. Another plus is that the mod stays upright without firing while the locking ring is effortlessly activated. One thing I would change / simplify is the two-piece screw for eliminating battery rattling and adjusting the attie. I also ordered the Spheroid, but havent had a chance to try it out yet.
Now for my main gripe:
The bottom end of the serialized 18350 tube looks like it was partially shaved on a machine and leaves a small opening with the fire button. I attempted to take some phone shots, but I'm not sure if it can be seen clearly.
Some notes:
I ordered the Spheroid in parts (3 total) after reading on the Vapourart site that "The base comes in brushed finish currently", so I went for a polished tube and a brushed bell. The unit I received was all polished. I can live with the polished unit and just get a brushed unit to swap finishes when they become available, but Vapourart may want to change the description if it's wrong.
I mistakenly ordered the polished 2.1 18650 tube and emailed Vapourart almost immediately to see if they could change it to an SS tube, but no one ever replied. Again, no big deal as the tube screws on the Paps 2.5 (it's just a hair slimmer than the top and bottom caps) and it was my wrong-doing in the first place.
PS 1: Does anybody know where I can get some small drip tips for the Spheroid like the ones on the Vapourart site or the Caravela atties?
PS 2: Persea, what would you think about a couple new editions that would swap the colors of the top cap and the locking ring; i.e. a brushed brass finish for the GP Paps SS (or all shiny), and a shiny brass for the lower firing button ring on the GP Paps Lux 2.5? I just did a quick p/shop with the Paps 2.5 SS to show you what I mean - see last picture. I think it spices it up a bit and takes some visual weight off the button section while also making it look more elegant and sophisticated.
We can replace whatever part of a mod without further questions, but for the serialized parts we need them to be returned back, before we replace them. You can return also the v2.1 tube to change it with a v2.5.
As for the polished base, I forgot to update the product's description, before the opening of the store. You can return that also for swapping with a brushed base.
Our drip tips are coming out on September.
Changing materials during production is a bit complicated, because new adjustments need to be done to the CNC machines. We prefer to have as few variations as possible to keep the QC level high, although I'll keep a note of your suggestion. Aluminium bronze tube for the Spheroid isn't a good idea, because it comes in contact with the juice.
It's a matter of applying the correct amount of tension to the battery.
It depends on the tight connections of the pressure elements around the battery: the switch, the telescopic post and the atty. if one of them is not tightened enough as it pushes the others against the battery's poles, consequently their connection loosens after a while.
I've love a chance to pay for mine!!!
I missed the last batch 'cause I was lounging at the beach in Koh Samet, Thailand forgetting the world ...
Lesson learned? No more vacation until I get my hands on a GP!!!
In order to have an 18350 with no rattle, what I do is:
1) Insert atty leaving 1mm of space from top cap, then tighten the screw in top cap so that it sits snug
2) Loosen the small screw in top cap a bit then put the top cap on.
3) Check for battery rattle
4) Repeat step 2 if necessary
5) If top cap doesn't screw down all the way, then loosen small screw
When I reach the point where I have a snug battery and atty, the small screw sits very loose on the top cap. It seems that after using it for a while, it doesn't fire. That's when I have to take the top cap off and adjust the screws that have moved out of adjustment.
Am I doing it right?
Now that I think of it, it might be happening because I am taking the button off a lot. When I screw down the lock, it sticks a lot to the switch and when I try to unlock it, I end up taking off the button. I guess at this point there's opportunity for the screws to lose adjustment.
If I understood well your locking ring sticks, is that happening because you tighten it too much, or is there any issue with the locking ring or the switch base?
Hi perseas, it's been sticking but I just picked it up now to test it and it seems fine.
I'm just trying to figure out why I end up fiddling with the adjustment screws a lot during the day... on some days not all. It's probably just user error. While going over in detail how I adjust the setup, I have the atty, screws, and battery all attached snugly and everything seems to be perfect. I'm either an idiot or you snuck into my house and replaced my Lux. I wonder which one is more likely.
U said it -- that's the reason (for ur telescopic screws loosening up).
REMEMBER:
1. With such small tolerances anything we do in excess could sway the balances,
2. The lock-ring on v2.5 switch is meant for a 'flick' to work... we don't need to tighten it all the way,
3. A tiny amount of Vaseline on the telescrews' threads could make it tad sticky to not unravel easily,
4. For exactly the above reason (point-3) NEVER apply Vaseline or Noalox to the lock-ring area!
It was meant metaphorically... aka those lovely things coming out from Team GP. In any case Perseas understood what I meant Hi perseas, it's been sticking but I just picked it up now to test it and it seems fine.
I'm just trying to figure out why I end up fiddling with the adjustment screws a lot during the day... on some days not all. It's probably just user error. While going over in detail how I adjust the setup, I have the atty, screws, and battery all attached snugly and everything seems to be perfect. I'm either an idiot or you snuck into my house and replaced my Lux. I wonder which one is more likely.
We observed that happening sometimes with the first GP telescopic post v2.1, so we made the v2.5 posts with tighter threading and I change batteries from above to keep the tension to the battery unchanged by any movements of the switch. Do you have a v2.1 telescopic post?
Perseas, I bought a Lux 2.5 and later an SS 2.5 so I think the answer to your question is no. However the telescoping post on the Lux appears thinner than the one on the SS.
Here's the Lux on the left and the SS on the right. Both posts in position for a snug fit with the 18350.
The left one has the design of v2.1 and the right is v2.5.
The first batches of GP PAPS LUX had the v2.1 telescopic post, then we made the v2.5
The first batches of GP PAPS LUX had the v2.1 telescopic post, then we made the v2.5
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I bought the 18350 LUX edition version 2.5 on June 6th. Order # 6840. When did v2.5 posts start?
From the next batches. I too have that 'thinner' tele-screws on my Lux, which was purchased on it's launch day (received on May-22nd).
A few days before the 14 of June we presented the GP telescopic post v2.5, your LUX has the GP telescopic post v2.1 and the post 2.5 with calibrated threading started on August. Every batch has small improvements, whey they become many, we introduce a new version.
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Thats a new one! Does the locking ring spin and unlock or does the device fire occasionally?
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