^^ Holding out for the LUX version???
^^ Holding out for the LUX version???
Now its time to ask for forgiveness!![]()
I'm trying to figure out why I can't pull the trigger on this beauty from Dennis @ Domo. He's answered all my questions as the people here have. I have AW IMR batts and all my IBT and Protanks will fit until I can get a SnP so I'm good to go.
What's wrong with me?
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Well said except that 'any' part. There's nothing wrong with 'protected' ICRs on a Mech.mod if they fit. I use 'protected' Panasonic NCR18650A 3100mAh* and they are the longest lasting ones on my Paps. Yes, we shouldn't be using a 'protected' battery on a VV/VW Mod.
However, it's wise to stick to the IMRs, especially the AWs b'coz most modders have designed their Mods based on those dimensions. And for these Mech.Mods, since all come in the minimum possible sizes, avoiding 'nipple top' batteries is wise. I use Efest and AWs ('flat tops') in the 18350 and 18500 modes and I find both perform similarly and last as long as the other.
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*Type "hoosiervapes" in those ............
qorax great point to know. i just made the switch to mechanical mods when i started buying Paps few months back and didnt really know mechanical mods should use flat top batteries. I always use IMR but most of mine are button type. I do have a few flat tops which i do use. great post and thanks
I am enjoying all this rookie forgiveness talk. If there is any complaint, quietly go buy 2 cartons of smokes at an average cost of $85.00 each in the US and put them on the kitchen table like a Boss. Then smoke your brains out and ask for a sandwich before she beats your ....No so fast my friend.....I have to wait until it gets here, then ask.
I am enjoying all this rookie forgiveness talk. If there is any complaint, quietly go buy 2 cartons of smokes at an average cost of $85.00 each in the US and put them on the kitchen table like a Boss. Then smoke your brains out and ask for a sandwich before she beats your ....![]()
My wife spotted the VA receipt, raised an eyebrow, but i could almost see the dialogue in her head: "Well, he quit tobacco, doesn't stink of ash. I don't have to worry about my kids seeing him light up. Ok, this time I'll forgive the $250"
...On another note, our technical challenge, designing the GP mods, is a number of criteria that we've setup as a guide:
1) Our mods need to accommodate only IMR batteries or safe chemistry ones, for safety reasons.
2) Our mods have to be small, more is less.
3) The batteries are frequently out of specs and new batteries appear with different lengths, out of specs too. (We notice the differences in their circumferences and the thickness of their plastic covers, to insure an adequate gas venting inside the tube, avoiding a battery side rattle at the same time).
4) Our mods have to be kickable and the kick module varies in length from 1.5 to 1,9 mm.
5) No use of telescopic tubes for technical and aesthetic reasons.
Just FYI, Dennis is not proprietor of domovaporco.com, Blake Nieman-Davis (the OB) is. Not to take anything away from Dennis, who is fantastic, but gotta give props to my buddy, Blake
P.S., don't torture yourself, just buy; you'll have no regrets![]()
I put my 2 cents in the discussion. The ICR and IMR batteries, protected and safe chemistry ones, come in all shapes and sizes, both come with flat tops and tops with a nipple and variable lengths and OD. For example the IMR Efest 18350 v1 has a flat top, while the V2 has a nipple top. The protected ones are always 1-2.5 mm longer due to the protection circuit and brands like AW, Panasonic, Efest are out of specs in 18650 size being 2,5 mm lengthier too, because they claim bigger capacity in mAh for that size. Efest and AW in 18500 size also differ.
Because every brand uses a different name to describe their approach to a safe chemistry battery, read carefully the specs before buying one.
On another note, our technical challenge, designing the GP mods, is a number of criteria that we've setup as a guide:
1) Our mods need to accommodate only IMR batteries or safe chemistry ones, for safety reasons.
2) Our mods have to be small, more is less.
3) The batteries are frequently out of specs and new batteries appear with different lengths, out of specs too. (We notice the differences in their circumferences and the thickness of their plastic covers, to insure an adequate gas venting inside the tube, avoiding a battery side rattle at the same time).
4) Our mods have to be kickable and the kick module varies in length from 1.5 to 1,9 mm.
5) No use of telescopic tubes for technical and aesthetic reasons.
This is the response I'm banking on. I told her it would be a little expensive on the front end but, in the long term, it would benefit the pocketbook.
My envelope of 50 9x1mm O-rings just arrived. Now back to beating this SnP into submission! First attempt was not successful. The only way to push the Diver through was to literally hammer it through. Even the plastic tool meant to be used to help ease the Diver through the caps does not make it through the top cap at all, and only peeks out of the bottom cap about 0.5 mm or so before getting thoroghly stuck. I tried the Diver from my Scuba setup, with the same results, so it isn't caused by the Diver that came with the SnP. When the tank was finally assembled, stripped O-rings and all, the pin of the Diver fell out, because all the violence seems to have detached the ceramic from the bottom.
I am starting to think this SnP have a manufacturing defect, mostly because everyone else seems to be having no such issues. I certainly hope so. It does speak to the precision engineering that this has such tight specs and tolerances, and to the manufacturing process that more folks aren't experiencing this. I will try this a few more times, seeing as I have plenty of O-rings.
My envelope of 50 9x1mm O-rings just arrived. Now back to beating this SnP into submission! First attempt was not successful. The only way to push the Diver through was to literally hammer it through. Even the plastic tool meant to be used to help ease the Diver through the caps does not make it through the top cap at all, and only peeks out of the bottom cap about 0.5 mm or so before getting thoroghly stuck. I tried the Diver from my Scuba setup, with the same results, so it isn't caused by the Diver that came with the SnP. When the tank was finally assembled, stripped O-rings and all, the pin of the Diver fell out, because all the violence seems to have detached the ceramic from the bottom.
I am starting to think this SnP have a manufacturing defect, mostly because everyone else seems to be having no such issues. I certainly hope so. It does speak to the precision engineering that this has such tight specs and tolerances, and to the manufacturing process that more folks aren't experiencing this. I will try this a few more times, seeing as I have plenty of O-rings.