found some sera wool. not locally but its coming from idaho
That's where they grow it, right?
Sent from my SGH-T889 using Tapatalk 4
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That's where they grow it, right?
Sent from my SGH-T889 using Tapatalk 4
Guess this would be perfect then. Remove brass center post and bottom nut, rub in cloth, reinstall.
Couldn't find this at Walmart. I assume since the center post is brass, Brasso would work just as good, right?
Not that I've used it, but I see a giant NO next to Brasso anytime I read others comments. Hopefully someone else can provide the reasons why.
I think (correct me if I am wrong) that Brasso was was NOT TO BE USED on the Lux tubes. I really need something for my center post. It looks like
Would this work?
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I think it's because of the abrasive nature of brasso. You'll end up scratching the tube.
I have finally got my Lux up and running today. All I'm gonna say is WOW, no other words are needed
I have finally got my Lux up and running today. All I'm gonna say is WOW, no other words are needed
Yes, regarding the polish, just use something that's non-abrasive and can clean/polish all metals (so you can still use it on all your SS).
I have been using Mother's Mag Wheel Polish with excellent results.
EDIT: for cleaning brass contacts, I'll dab a little polish on a Q-tip, work out the brass until it gets nice and black, then flip it over to the clean end and clear away the black residue. Then of course just a tiny touch of an antioxidant (e.g. Noalox, NO-OX-ID) You can usually get your brass contacts looking like gold!
WARNING: DO NOT USE POLISHES ON PRECIOUS METAL PLATED PARTS!!!! (e.g. LUX contacts & switch)
I have been using Mother's Mag Wheel Polish with excellent results.
EDIT: for cleaning brass contacts, I'll dab a little polish on a Q-tip, work out the brass until it gets nice and black, then flip it over to the clean end and clear away the black residue. Then of course just a tiny touch of an antioxidant (e.g. Noalox, NO-OX-ID) You can usually get your brass contacts looking like gold!
WARNING: DO NOT USE POLISHES ON PRECIOUS METAL PLATED PARTS!!!! (e.g. LUX contacts & switch)
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I'm wondering did all of you guys receive orders made from the last batch? Either I'm very special or extremely unlucky.. still waiting for my new gadget without DHL tracking or much support from GP guys
I'm wondering did all of you guys receive orders made from the last batch? Either I'm very special or extremely unlucky.. still waiting for my new gadget without DHL tracking or much support from GP guys
Most of us received ours on Monday, Aug-12th... a few received in earlier too. Pls call Perseas and check it out.
I'm wondering did all of you guys receive orders made from the last batch? Either I'm very special or extremely unlucky.. still waiting for my new gadget without DHL tracking or much support from GP guys
Which is your order number buddy?
I cannot find the nickname Deas, probably you've used a different one at our store.
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A beauty Revisited!
How To: SS Mesh Wick with Twisted Coil in Spheroid...
Had pondered over it for a while and upon receiving my second Spheroid - gave it a try. Two things took me to it - (A)had plenty of mesh lying around since I have given up on Gennys for good, and (B)curiosity!
EVERYTHING LAID OUT:
A piece of stock Sera Wool, 400w SS Mesh, 32AWG Nichrome. Spheroid all washed up...
SIZING UP THE MESH:
A thin piece of 400w mesh, 8 x 2 cms works well for the wick...
SIZING UP THE SERA:
The fluff filling should neither be too dense nor too thin. 4 x 2 cms seem to hold the juice perfectly...
TORCHED THE MESH:
Since the only conducting area would be at the coil I just torched the two ends of the mesh strip...
ROLLING THE WICK:
This part is tricky. I rolled only the ends of the mesh strip, leaving the centre as it goes:
1. Started rolling each end,
2. Tightly held the rolled ends and pulled them apart,
3. Then flattened the centre a bit, so that it bent well into a loop rather than at an angle.
WIDTH OF THE WICK CENTRE:
Left it around half a centimetre (0.5mm), which is enough surface area to suck-in the juice while perfectly fitting in the space between the air-tube and the walls of the Spheroid.
TWISTING THE WIRE:
Easy peesy. There's already a tutorial with images at the GP thread. I just used a locked safety pin, which makes the job tad easier as it doesn't slide off. Remember, it is a 32 gauge wire (pretty thin), which has been looped so that both its ends meet. Then rotated the safety pin till the resultant cable became a perfect spiral.
ATTACHING WICK & COIL:
For one, we should ensure that the tail ends of the coil come in the same plane. I prefer the ends lying at bottom while the coil-head remains on top before being attached to the posts (positive & negative). This gives us enough space between the air-channel of the base and the coil to play around.
NOTE: The lower you get (closer to the air-channel) - higher the vapor production and flavor. The further away u move the wick & coil from that air-channel you'd get more TH, but loose the vapor quantitatively/proportionally. However, we cannot get the coil to touch the air-channel, else we'd have a dead short. -DANGER
ALIGNING THE WICK & COIL:
Note the gap between the coil and the air-channel of the base. We can move the coil using a flat head screwdriver passing thru the gap and gently twisting it. I typically keep the gap to around 1mm in all my silica attys. The wick ends had been trimmed to keep it within the base periphery, while the loop (lasso end) had been kept at 1.5 cms approx.
FIRING UP THE WICK & COIL:
As we do with our Gennys, gently started pulsing to get that evenly lit coil. We all know what it's all about, don't we? This is a 3/4 wrap coil giving exactly 1Ω. Seems to heat up soon - the moment I press the button... there's no delay at all!
JUICED UP THE WICK & COIL:
Dropped some juice over the wick & coil. Saturated it well and fired it up. Repeated this until (see below)...
BE MESMERIZED:
Probably these are the only forums where such images would be appreciated. Nowhere else, none of our friends & folks would understand what we are talking about - and why we are so elated!
LOADING THE SERA AND JUICING IT UP:
Rolled the Sera wool around the air-tube. Remember, the key is in "lightly rolling" it. We shouldn't wind it tightly... there should be enough breathing space between the weaves of the Sera... this is the space where the juice would be held and remain jellyfied (akin to!). Too tight/dense - it'd hold less and wick poorly. Too loose - it'd leak! A 4 x 2 cms piece fits the bill well. Also, with time, the Sera swells up (with juice) and fills up whatever gap there is.
DAMN, WHATTA SETUP!
BOTTOMLINE: Have this setup for over two days now. Gone thru many tank-fulls. It vapes great. I have no issues whatsoever. As regards, the vapor, TH and flavor - let me reiterate once again, I don't find any significant difference between this setup and the Silica ones that I have over the other Spheroid. But, one thing I've definitely noticed - it blows more vapor than the Silica setup. However, that could be due to many 'other' factors... but I've run the same juice over both the Spheroids. And I also notice that I get more aroma and taste. Yes, this mesh wick seems to taste & smell good! I'm enjoying my Spheroid all over again!
______________________
Rejoinder: Don't worry about the mesh wick shorting out touching the body of the Spheroid - it won't, unless u've a short at the coil level. Remember, the only electrically conducting area is at the coil. Once that's sorted - the rest of the wick is as good as a non-conductive silica. B'coz it's only the coil loops which are processing the current from post A to post B. You didn't have a short there, did you? Thus, you wouldn't elsewhere on the wick as well.
How To: SS Mesh Wick with Twisted Coil in Spheroid...
Had pondered over it for a while and upon receiving my second Spheroid - gave it a try. Two things took me to it - (A)had plenty of mesh lying around since I have given up on Gennys for good, and (B)curiosity!
EVERYTHING LAID OUT:
A piece of stock Sera Wool, 400w SS Mesh, 32AWG Nichrome. Spheroid all washed up...
SIZING UP THE MESH:
A thin piece of 400w mesh, 8 x 2 cms works well for the wick...
SIZING UP THE SERA:
The fluff filling should neither be too dense nor too thin. 4 x 2 cms seem to hold the juice perfectly...
TORCHED THE MESH:
Since the only conducting area would be at the coil I just torched the two ends of the mesh strip...
ROLLING THE WICK:
This part is tricky. I rolled only the ends of the mesh strip, leaving the centre as it goes:
1. Started rolling each end,
2. Tightly held the rolled ends and pulled them apart,
3. Then flattened the centre a bit, so that it bent well into a loop rather than at an angle.
WIDTH OF THE WICK CENTRE:
Left it around half a centimetre (0.5mm), which is enough surface area to suck-in the juice while perfectly fitting in the space between the air-tube and the walls of the Spheroid.
TWISTING THE WIRE:
Easy peesy. There's already a tutorial with images at the GP thread. I just used a locked safety pin, which makes the job tad easier as it doesn't slide off. Remember, it is a 32 gauge wire (pretty thin), which has been looped so that both its ends meet. Then rotated the safety pin till the resultant cable became a perfect spiral.
ATTACHING WICK & COIL:
For one, we should ensure that the tail ends of the coil come in the same plane. I prefer the ends lying at bottom while the coil-head remains on top before being attached to the posts (positive & negative). This gives us enough space between the air-channel of the base and the coil to play around.
NOTE: The lower you get (closer to the air-channel) - higher the vapor production and flavor. The further away u move the wick & coil from that air-channel you'd get more TH, but loose the vapor quantitatively/proportionally. However, we cannot get the coil to touch the air-channel, else we'd have a dead short. -DANGER
ALIGNING THE WICK & COIL:
Note the gap between the coil and the air-channel of the base. We can move the coil using a flat head screwdriver passing thru the gap and gently twisting it. I typically keep the gap to around 1mm in all my silica attys. The wick ends had been trimmed to keep it within the base periphery, while the loop (lasso end) had been kept at 1.5 cms approx.
FIRING UP THE WICK & COIL:
As we do with our Gennys, gently started pulsing to get that evenly lit coil. We all know what it's all about, don't we? This is a 3/4 wrap coil giving exactly 1Ω. Seems to heat up soon - the moment I press the button... there's no delay at all!
JUICED UP THE WICK & COIL:
Dropped some juice over the wick & coil. Saturated it well and fired it up. Repeated this until (see below)...
BE MESMERIZED:
Probably these are the only forums where such images would be appreciated. Nowhere else, none of our friends & folks would understand what we are talking about - and why we are so elated!
LOADING THE SERA AND JUICING IT UP:
Rolled the Sera wool around the air-tube. Remember, the key is in "lightly rolling" it. We shouldn't wind it tightly... there should be enough breathing space between the weaves of the Sera... this is the space where the juice would be held and remain jellyfied (akin to!). Too tight/dense - it'd hold less and wick poorly. Too loose - it'd leak! A 4 x 2 cms piece fits the bill well. Also, with time, the Sera swells up (with juice) and fills up whatever gap there is.
DAMN, WHATTA SETUP!
BOTTOMLINE: Have this setup for over two days now. Gone thru many tank-fulls. It vapes great. I have no issues whatsoever. As regards, the vapor, TH and flavor - let me reiterate once again, I don't find any significant difference between this setup and the Silica ones that I have over the other Spheroid. But, one thing I've definitely noticed - it blows more vapor than the Silica setup. However, that could be due to many 'other' factors... but I've run the same juice over both the Spheroids. And I also notice that I get more aroma and taste. Yes, this mesh wick seems to taste & smell good! I'm enjoying my Spheroid all over again!
______________________
Rejoinder: Don't worry about the mesh wick shorting out touching the body of the Spheroid - it won't, unless u've a short at the coil level. Remember, the only electrically conducting area is at the coil. Once that's sorted - the rest of the wick is as good as a non-conductive silica. B'coz it's only the coil loops which are processing the current from post A to post B. You didn't have a short there, did you? Thus, you wouldn't elsewhere on the wick as well.
Q! I applaud your efforts! At the end you talk about less vapor and that is simply due to not enough juice on the wick. The wick that you have on the side of the spheroid is unable to soak or wick up juice except, what is around it. The Spheroid was hugely based on gravity wicking the juice straight down from the top of the fluff to the bottom. Hence the reason for the wicks being on the bottom of the fluff, not on the side. I suppose if the Spheroid was constantly laid on its side and vaped with the wick facing down.
Simply it is a gravity feed atomizer. In order to have sufficient and maximum atomization juice has to constantly be fed down onto the wick. The wick should be wet constantly from the wicking properties. I can chain vape silica setups, not with ss.
I would also suspect the tucking the wick into the fluff would inhibit the flow.
It's funny the number of wicks we build and the ones I have do not compare to its intended wick method. The ones I have shown with the figure 8 i am done with for a while. I am back to where I started and couldnt be more pleased. 3mm loop with tail just touching the bottom of the fluff.
I will say it again and sure many will agree, of all my atomizers big, tall, short, fat, there is nothing that compares to the Spheroid. The big flavor, big vapor production, affordable price and it literally takes a minute or two to cut a small piece silica or eko wrap it, tighten the nuts, grab your nuts and go! I own 3 and love every one of them.
Anyway Q, keep at it bro. Bro hug.
Simply it is a gravity feed atomizer. In order to have sufficient and maximum atomization juice has to constantly be fed down onto the wick. The wick should be wet constantly from the wicking properties. I can chain vape silica setups, not with ss.
I would also suspect the tucking the wick into the fluff would inhibit the flow.
It's funny the number of wicks we build and the ones I have do not compare to its intended wick method. The ones I have shown with the figure 8 i am done with for a while. I am back to where I started and couldnt be more pleased. 3mm loop with tail just touching the bottom of the fluff.
I will say it again and sure many will agree, of all my atomizers big, tall, short, fat, there is nothing that compares to the Spheroid. The big flavor, big vapor production, affordable price and it literally takes a minute or two to cut a small piece silica or eko wrap it, tighten the nuts, grab your nuts and go! I own 3 and love every one of them.
Anyway Q, keep at it bro. Bro hug.
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I understand the need for questions - but seriously? I've spent some hours trying to get it to work - the holes are closed, the gaskets are in, the tank is squeaky clean, the o-rings are lubed and have also been changed just in case. I've tried 3 different cartos and the killer 705 - they all do the exact same thing. Tried thin juice and 100%VG - no difference.
Once the carto fills - it doesn't stop filling - well - actually it does - when all the juice has run out of the bottom of the carto...it stops...
Once the carto fills - it doesn't stop filling - well - actually it does - when all the juice has run out of the bottom of the carto...it stops...
Although the Paps might arguably be considered the most luxurious mod at present, i for one am not a fan of thick walled or heavy mods (the so called solid feel,as far as i'm concerned heavy doesn't necessary equals solid, also i don't see the benefit of solidity in such a device as is not meant to be used as a contact weapon).
Quite the contrary, i prefer lightweight and delicate vaping paraphernalia.
Enter the Picollo. At least the older version, 16mm OD for 14500 battery. Right up my alley, only to find out it is not available anymore.
What a surge of gastric acid i experienced when i stumbled upon the GP thread only to find out i missed the last train by a few days.
I am going to suffer a premature expiration because of this.
Quite the contrary, i prefer lightweight and delicate vaping paraphernalia.
Enter the Picollo. At least the older version, 16mm OD for 14500 battery. Right up my alley, only to find out it is not available anymore.
What a surge of gastric acid i experienced when i stumbled upon the GP thread only to find out i missed the last train by a few days.
I am going to suffer a premature expiration because of this.
Thanks for your attention Qorax
Lucky you guys! It's going to be my first ever mod and I'm excited.. The pics and reviews in this thread just make things worse Can't wait.. Thanks Perseas. You've looked into this a cpl of days ago but I'm still yet to hear from your guy. The order is 8709 but I guess we will all have to start getting worried if it doesn't arrive today (yesterday was the latest delivery deadline if I understand things correctly).
I'm wondering did all of you guys receive orders made from the last batch? Either I'm very special or extremely unlucky.. still waiting for my new gadget without DHL tracking or much support from GP guys
I have not received mine from last batch either, but I do have tracking. It is now saying "out for delivery". DHL was very slow for me this time, so keep the faith...
Good to know I'm not alone.. but I hope you will get yours today!
Good to know I'm not alone.. but I hope you will get yours today!
It is the first time we sent to Ukraine, and DHL told us that there is a possibility to be blocked in the customs if the parcel is sent to a private address, only corporate addresses pass, the same regulations apply to Russia. We sent you a second parcel today and the waybill will be activated in a few hours. We send to Russia via registered mail for 7 shipping cost, when the client provides us a private address. Maybe we have to put Ukraine to the same category.
I am speaking right now with DHL again to clear up any possibility factor and I will inform you what is going on in a while.
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