GP Series by VapourArt - Official Thread for GP Spheroid, GP PAPS, X, GP Piccolo, GP SnP and more - Part 1

Status
Not open for further replies.

raqball

Vaping Master
ECF Veteran
Verified Member
Jan 22, 2010
4,283
9,282
Well I know it's not the Diver because it doesn't pour out the bottom pin with the Scuba, I'm hoping it is the inner o-rings on the SnP. I just switched them out to the red ones and gonna build my secondary Diver to test.

I would be a happy man to get it running in my 23mm SnP with Provari base :)

If it's leaking out of the Diver pin then the SnP is not the issue..

The Diver works on some odd voodoo pressure system that the Scuba accounts for.. Scuba users hardly ever get leaks from the Diver pin unless they have built it wrong.

I have 4 Divers, 2 SnP's and another tank and I have never had a single leak that was caused by the tanks.

If you are leaking from the tank then it could be the SnP o-rings. Doubtful unless the o-rings are badly damaged.

If it's leaking from the Diver pin, then it's the Diver build, how the tank is getting filled, or both.

Now *if* you have bad inner o-rings that are causing an air leak then that could an issue as the Diver does work on pressure in the tank..

My .02
 

curisu

Super Member
ECF Veteran
Verified Member
Jun 15, 2013
361
657
48
San Francisco
OK guys...I have a problem with my SNP tank. I have managed to get the top cap stuck to the point it won't turn to expose the fill holes. Now..I'm still using it as I just lower the diver and insert a syringe to fill...but just frustrated. I also had the bottom cap stuck but after several hot water and dish soap soaks, got the bottom one free. Any suggestions? In the morning I'm going to remove the orings and try heating it with the hair dryer to see if it will loosen..but if anyone else has an idea I'll sure give it a try.

I believe the issue is using too much 'food grade goop' trying to get another tube on it ..couldn't help myself it was a sparkly tube I really wanted to work..but it didn't:facepalm:

my method with stuck caps, SnP or otherwise, is use a set of soft-jawed clamps. Usually one set is enough to break the stuck cap free, but sometimes a pair comes in handy.

I try to apply only enough clamping force to prevent the mod/atomizer/etc. from spinning freely in the rubber grips; any more and you risk damaging whatever you're trying to separate.

But your idea of heating with a hair-dryer seems much less potentially destructive ;)
 

curisu

Super Member
ECF Veteran
Verified Member
Jun 15, 2013
361
657
48
San Francisco
Nopers..

The black inner o-rings work fine for regular cartos but a Diver will NOT fit if they are used. With the Diver the red inner o-rings MUST be used..

my divers fit with the black o-rings on my SnPs; YMMV. The trick was to make sure that the o-rings, carto-tool and diver body all had water/ejuice on it to ease the sliding. I actually prefer the stiction with the black o-rings so that i can use the SnP itself to remove the diver and tank in one go.
 

digitals

Ultra Member
ECF Veteran
Verified Member
Jul 21, 2013
1,449
2,875
Indiana
Yea, I like it..

5adygabe.jpg


Though 22, the KFL looks great on the X.
 

LouEyez

Super Member
ECF Veteran
Verified Member
Jan 28, 2013
425
418
Geneva
For what it's worth, I've put a killer, a diver and a Sophia in an snp tank, and the easiest, problem proof one so far is the Sophia. I just rebuilt it, dual coil (as per bishopheals video on the wisdom as he calls it) and it's rocking the grants vanilla custard at .8 ohms like it ain't no thang...

L


Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk - now Free
 

curisu

Super Member
ECF Veteran
Verified Member
Jun 15, 2013
361
657
48
San Francisco
So I decided to take another run at my diver again last night with good and bad results. I have yet to get a quality vape from it while in a tank (SnP or Scuba) always with it leaking out the bottom of the 510 connector.

This time I did the following:
1 - cleaned everything
2 - double wrap of 2mm silica with a premade 1.4 ohm coil (stormmy's premades)
3 - made a second "U" out of the NR wire and placed it in the bottom of the cup (positive side to double it up)
4 - pressed the cup into the based while the center pin was in place
5 - cut wicks, primmed the wicks, tested coils and applied the chimmy ensuring the fluid hole was not blocked by the wick
6 - with the GP carto tool I inserted it into the SnP tank and left the bottom of the diver out of the tank so fluid whole was free
7 - filled the SnP tank and closed off tightly
8 - pushed the diver into the tank
INSTANTLY BEGAN TO DRIP EJUICE OUT THE BOTTOM


So I decided to do the same with the Scuba tank following steps 1-8 and it doesn't leak..... I woke up this morning to a gurgle free Diver which was nice. I possibly have too much wick in there because it doesn't wick well, requires a couple of pulls to get it going.

While I like the scuba tank I have almost 200.00 invested in SnP tanks and Provari bases. Does anyone have a good experience with the SnP tanks and can see where I am maybe doing something to cause instant leaking?

I've had excellent experiences with SnP tanks and divers. I've attached a diagram of all the root-causes of leaks I've personally experienced. If anyone would care to extend it, i've also made available

diverDiagram.gif


the source .ai file.


hope it helps track down your issue.
 

Attachments

  • diverDiagram.jpg
    diverDiagram.jpg
    7 KB · Views: 50

digitals

Ultra Member
ECF Veteran
Verified Member
Jul 21, 2013
1,449
2,875
Indiana
Angel Gomez is Mexican, (you meant the maker of Zapper). WW v2 maker's nickname on ECF as I was informed right now is seth83, the same as on VW.

The v2 has the ability to charge the internal removable 18650 battery via a USB port.

Here is a video with the differences between the 2 versions.



What was the cost, usd, on the WW V2?

Edit: I'm on mobile right now, and the tabs show no action.
 
Last edited:

perseas

Unregistered Supplier
ECF Veteran
Dec 11, 2011
3,442
17,927
Athens, Hellas
www.vapourart.com
So I decided to take another run at my diver again last night with good and bad results. I have yet to get a quality vape from it while in a tank (SnP or Scuba) always with it leaking out the bottom of the 510 connector.

This time I did the following:
1 - cleaned everything
2 - double wrap of 2mm silica with a premade 1.4 ohm coil (stormmy's premades)
3 - made a second "U" out of the NR wire and placed it in the bottom of the cup (positive side to double it up)
4 - pressed the cup into the based while the center pin was in place
5 - cut wicks, primmed the wicks, tested coils and applied the chimmy ensuring the fluid hole was not blocked by the wick
6 - with the GP carto tool I inserted it into the SnP tank and left the bottom of the diver out of the tank so fluid whole was free
7 - filled the SnP tank and closed off tightly
8 - pushed the diver into the tank
INSTANTLY BEGAN TO DRIP EJUICE OUT THE BOTTOM


So I decided to do the same with the Scuba tank following steps 1-8 and it doesn't leak..... I woke up this morning to a gurgle free Diver which was nice. I possibly have too much wick in there because it doesn't wick well, requires a couple of pulls to get it going.

While I like the scuba tank I have almost 200.00 invested in SnP tanks and Provari bases. Does anyone have a good experience with the SnP tanks and can see where I am maybe doing something to cause instant leaking?

There is a very simple way to find out if the SnP is leaking: put a Boge cartomizer in it and fill it. If it leaks, then the SnP has a problem.
 
Last edited:

perseas

Unregistered Supplier
ECF Veteran
Dec 11, 2011
3,442
17,927
Athens, Hellas
www.vapourart.com
My batteries dont fit with out a gap at the top that i hate. Domo has told me AW IMR batteries are all it works with. The Efest and Panasonic flat top batteries i have are to long to run the short post and to short without it. The bead blasted finish doesnt hold up as well as the brushed but im hard on stuff lol.

The 18350-500-650 batteries according to their specs should have 15 mm difference in their length and the Kick should be around 15 mm.
We design our mods with an extra 3 mm tolerance for that reason. We want to keep them small and according to the specs.

Beyond that, it becomes an engineering nightmare. When you find batteries with length exceeding by 2,5 mm their specs and you have a Kick or a clone of it with 19 mm length, there is nothing to be done, because you have 3,5 mm more length from the initial 3 mm tolerance.

The GP Telescopic Centre Post v2.5 adapted to the new tubes of v2.5 which are 1 mm longer from the previous versions to be able to hold the Kick v1 and the EFEST v2 batteries, both with varied lengths.

The v2.1 tubes need AW IMR batteries.

The last solution is to use the GP Telescopic Centre Post v2.6 which is even thinner.

For all these reasons we recommend AW IMR batteries for use with a Kick and it is written in the description of the product.

When they say 18650 , it is supposed to be:
18 mm OD
65 mm length
O round battery circular base

Almost all brands are out of specs.
Fortunately they still keep a round shape circular base ...

The bead blasted treatment isn't just a finish as the polishing and the brushing, you have to scratch deeply the tube to leave a mark.
 
Last edited:

RickCain

Ultra Member
ECF Veteran
Verified Member
Apr 14, 2013
1,354
3,369
Huntington Beach, CA
There is a very simple way to find out if the SnP is leaking: put a Boge cartomizer in it and fill it. If it leaks, then the SnP has a problem.

Great idea, I did this and it leaked as well. Could it be the two small o-rings not holding the pressure? Odd thing is I have a 22 and 23mm SnP and both do the same exact thing (one serial #in the 400's and on in the 500's). I'd love it if it was user error but am at a loss.
 

txredxj

Super Member
ECF Veteran
Verified Member
May 26, 2013
382
225
40
Kingfisher, OK
The finish issue isnt that it scratches just that the dull has some shine in couple places. I had it in my cup holder for a day when i was driving and got a spot that went to a semi-dull. I dont know what kind of media is used to bead blast it but finer media will leave higher peaks that wear down quickly and leave a semi-dull appearance. I had my brushed spheroid do something similar. Put it in a case and lost it in my truck for a couple days, by the time i found it had a shiney spot on the top and part of my serial number was rubbed off.

I will try and find some AW IMR flat tops and see if they will work.
 

perseas

Unregistered Supplier
ECF Veteran
Dec 11, 2011
3,442
17,927
Athens, Hellas
www.vapourart.com
Great idea, I did this and it leaked as well. Could it be the two small o-rings not holding the pressure? Odd thing is I have a 22 and 23mm SnP and both do the same exact thing (one serial #in the 400's and on in the 500's). I'd love it if it was user error but am at a loss.

Without inspecting them I cannot know where the leaking comes.
We shall replace them. If you have bought them from our American reseller, send him an email and I'll send him this week replacements. If you bought them from Vapourart, send us an email and from Monday we'll respond.
 

perseas

Unregistered Supplier
ECF Veteran
Dec 11, 2011
3,442
17,927
Athens, Hellas
www.vapourart.com
The finish issue isnt that it scratches just that the dull has some shine in couple places. I had it in my cup holder for a day when i was driving and got a spot that went to a semi-dull. I dont know what kind of media is used to bead blast it but finer media will leave higher peaks that wear down quickly and leave a semi-dull appearance. I had my brushed spheroid do something similar. Put it in a case and lost it in my truck for a couple days, by the time i found it had a shiney spot on the top and part of my serial number was rubbed off.

I will try and find some AW IMR flat tops and see if they will work.

We have used fine media for blasting, I understand now what you meant about being hard on mods. You rub them all day in the cup holder :D

The AW IMR batteries have nipples. The flat tops are AW ICR and they are longer.
 
Last edited:

raqball

Vaping Master
ECF Veteran
Verified Member
Jan 22, 2010
4,283
9,282
Great idea, I did this and it leaked as well. Could it be the two small o-rings not holding the pressure? Odd thing is I have a 22 and 23mm SnP and both do the same exact thing (one serial #in the 400's and on in the 500's). I'd love it if it was user error but am at a loss.

I have a TON of black inner orings that I got from eBay.. PM me your address and I can mail you some to try out..
 

qorax

ECF Guru
ECF Veteran
Verified Member
Mar 6, 2013
12,652
41,477
Brampton, Canada
www.facebook.com
...The bead blasted treatment isn't just a finish as the polishing and the brushing, you have to scratch deeply the tube to leave a mark.

That's some treatment done by you indeed... I have tossed my BB Piccolo everywhere in the car -- boot, trunk, under the seats, you name it -- the Piccolo never gathered a mark, or dent, or ding, or smudge. Hey, I even got to drop it on my driveway once and my kid stepped on it while debarking... I thought "this is it"... but no, picked it up, wiped the dust off, gave it a wash -- and man, no marks whatsoever!

It's a while that the BB Piccolo is with me. It's my daily use device alongwith the BB Spheroid (oh boy, whatta vaper that Spheroid is!) while on the run... and it still looks as new as the day I received it. Am I lucky? Hell no, Team-GP has sure done a fantabulous job with this BB thingy. But hey, lucky I am indeed - to find Team-GP!
 
Status
Not open for further replies.

Users who are viewing this thread