GP Series by VapourArt - Official Thread for GP Spheroid, GP PAPS, X, GP Piccolo, GP SnP and more - Part 1

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txredxj

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We have used fine media for blasting, I understand now what you meant about being hard on mods. You rub them all day in the cup holder :D

The AW IMR batteries have nipples. The flat tops are AW ICR and they are longer.

most of the day they sit on my toolbox but if i have to go out to work on a truck or go to another yard they get thrown in the cup holder or any place i can set them in. Most of the time its a country road or dirt lease road that are plenty bumpy. I dont get to polish mine up as much as i like so i just grab another mod and have a clean and shine weekend once a month or so. I have 6 mods in the rotation and 2 are Paps. I have some clones coming but i dont think i will use the Paps any less.
 

perseas

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most of the day they sit on my toolbox but if i have to go out to work on a truck or go to another yard they get thrown in the cup holder or any place i can set them in. Most of the time its a country road or dirt lease road that are plenty bumpy. I dont get to polish mine up as much as i like so i just grab another mod and have a clean and shine weekend once a month or so. I have 6 mods in the rotation and 2 are Paps. I have some clones coming but i dont think i will use the Paps any less.

I see, in your case, a brushed finish or a sand blasted tube would be ideal.
 

RickCain

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Without inspecting them I cannot know where the leaking comes.
We shall replace them. If you have bought them from our American reseller, send him an email and I'll send him this week replacements. If you bought them from Vapourart, send us an email and from Monday we'll respond.

OK, I think there is a reason for the issues I have been having with the Diver (or any other carto) in my SnP's. As stated prior I have two of them and both were experiencing the same pressure issue. What I found is the o-rings on one of them sit to low. When they are inserted I can't even feel them when I run my finger over the top. The other top I can feel them and is actually holding pressure.

With all of the problems I have been having it was clear I needed to start from the beginning, this meant building both tanks and evaluating them individually - which I had not been doing.

My guess would be the top has the o-ring channel too deep causing it not to seal. Now the other problem is I bought one from Vapourart and one from Domo. Since the 22 and 23mm top and bottom pieces are the same I can't tell you which one was which.

Heaven at last!!!
IMG_20131019_172058.jpg
 

perseas

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OK, I think there is a reason for the issues I have been having with the Diver (or any other carto) in my SnP's. As stated prior I have two of them and both were experiencing the same pressure issue. What I found is the o-rings on one of them sit to low. When they are inserted I can't even feel them when I run my finger over the top. The other top I can feel them and is actually holding pressure.

With all of the problems I have been having it was clear I needed to start from the beginning, this meant building both tanks and evaluating them individually - which I had not been doing.

My guess would be the top has the o-ring channel too deep causing it not to seal. Now the other problem is I bought one from Vapourart and one from Domo. Since the 22 and 23mm top and bottom pieces are the same I can't tell you which one was which.

Heaven at last!!!
View attachment 263692


The GP SnP 23 mm are under production, they will be ready on November, I don't know specific date yet. Send me on Monday an email to send you a set of 22 mm top cap with cover and maybe a 23 mm one if I find any left in our repository, otherwise the second set will come during November. Are you OK with this solution?
 
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RickCain

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The GP SnP 23 mm are under production, they will be ready on November, I don't know specific date yet. Send me on Monday an email to send you a set of 22 mm top cap with cover and maybe a 23 mm one if I find any left in our repository, otherwise the second set will come during November. Are you OK with this solution?

I am thrilled! Thank you for the incredible customer service.

:toast:
 

ozy.mandias

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Oh gee, here we go.

http://www.kamry.cc/1189.html

While it's not a 100% knock-off, I feel I have an idea which mod inspired this latest product from the Chinese friends.

Thankfully, it already says it's a "Camry". I relax, lean back and have a nice vape on my "Mercedes Benz" Paps X :)

Greetings

Ozy
 

fasteddie

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The 18350-500-650 batteries according to their specs should have 15 mm difference in their length and the Kick should be around 15 mm.
We design our mods with an extra 3 mm tolerance for that reason. We want to keep them small and according to the specs.

Beyond that, it becomes an engineering nightmare. When you find batteries with length exceeding by 2,5 mm their specs and you have a Kick or a clone of it with 19 mm length, there is nothing to be done, because you have 3,5 mm more length from the initial 3 mm tolerance.

The GP Telescopic Centre Post v2.5 adapted to the new tubes of v2.5 which are 1 mm longer from the previous versions to be able to hold the Kick v1 and the EFEST v2 batteries, both with varied lengths.

The v2.1 tubes need AW IMR batteries.

The last solution is to use the GP Telescopic Centre Post v2.6 which is even thinner.

For all these reasons we recommend AW IMR batteries for use with a Kick and it is written in the description of the product.

When they say 18650 , it is supposed to be:
18 mm OD
65 mm length
O round battery circular base

Almost all brands are out of specs.
Fortunately they still keep a round shape circular base ...

The bead blasted treatment isn't just a finish as the polishing and the brushing, you have to scratch deeply the tube to leave a mark.

Great explanation Perseas, IMHO the bead blasted finish is best on offer. Mine hasn't got a single mark on it and I am also quite rough with my mods working on site and leaving them lying about in my tool
Box. I also find the BB to be more tactile and easier to handle.

I had similar issues with the tubes when using my kick 2, the solution was to get a spare top cap telescopic pin assembly them use my dremel grinder attachment take a couple of mm off its length. I took about 1mm off the screw head and then another mm or so off the top side where it connects to the 510 pin on the atty if that make any sense.
 

LouEyez

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Hey everyone, I've done a bit of searching, but this is much quicker i think :) whats the consensus on the button heating up? suggestions have been all over the place, and I'm not sure what the right answer is...basically, on my paps (not X) the button heats up...I'll try recoiling it tonight, but was wondering if I should do something else while I'm at it...thanks,

L
 

perseas

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Great explanation Perseas, IMHO the bead blasted finish is best on offer. Mine hasn't got a single mark on it and I am also quite rough with my mods working on site and leaving them lying about in my tool
Box. I also find the BB to be more tactile and easier to handle.

I had similar issues with the tubes when using my kick 2, the solution was to get a spare top cap telescopic pin assembly them use my dremel grinder attachment take a couple of mm off its length. I took about 1mm off the screw head and then another mm or so off the top side where it connects to the 510 pin on the atty if that make any sense.

It is the same we have done to GP v2.6 telescopic post plus a thinner PEEK insulator.
 

perseas

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Dec 11, 2011
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Hey everyone, I've done a bit of searching, but this is much quicker i think :) whats the consensus on the button heating up? suggestions have been all over the place, and I'm not sure what the right answer is...basically, on my paps (not X) the button heats up...I'll try recoiling it tonight, but was wondering if I should do something else while I'm at it...thanks,

L

Do you a have SS spring or a brass one?
 
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