GP Series by VapourArt - Official Thread for GP Spheroid, GP PAPS, X, GP Piccolo, GP SnP and more - Part 3

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Spydro

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As said different strokes on the switches. I prefer the X's over the V3's, and the V2.1 over the V3's as well. Part of that might be because of the first V3 I got, a SS 18500 Edition with the old style ring that has sharp edges that bug me. Just a mind set thing carrying over to all V3's maybe that I haven't tried to correct yet. Part of it is also because I have so many PAPS now that I don't run them all at the same time... tend to use the favored ones most of the time and the others only ocassionaly. That'll change though when the 3 new drippers for the PAPS I ordered gets here as I'll dedicate 3 of them to the drippers, and probably in shorter configs. I just can't seem to get away from running all the X's in 18650 even though I bought an extra SS main body and switch with the intent of making a dedicated short config X. That switch runs the LUX 18650 tube instead.

Anyway, right now 3 X's/Herons and a MicroStick/Sofia are on line, and one of my VV3's with a palate cleanser liquid. The Ti will get thoroughly cleaned today, probably get a SnP SS tank/Sofia for it's maiden voyage, and for pictures. Want to see if it feels top heavy with the tank, and to get some use with some of my Sofia's that have mostly been ignored ever since all the Herons (and the Spheroid) came to live with me.
:)
 

Todai

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EDIT: after thinking about it a little more I took both my V3 and Xs to see how many turns it took to unlock and lock. they are both a little less then a full turn.

Just did the same. On all 3 of my X switches, it takes one and one half full rotations from completely locked to completely unlocked. On my 1 v3 switch, it takes three quarters of one turn.

Maybe I need to go play with my nuts.
 

StrikeIII

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Just did the same. On all 3 of my X switches, it takes one and one half full rotations from completely locked to completely unlocked. On my 1 v3 switch, it takes three quarters of one turn.

Maybe I need to go play with my nuts.

Yes, you'll always feel better after playing with your nuts. :lol:

When you put the nut back into the X switch base screw it down all the way (Not tight) and then back it out a quarter to a half turn. This will make a huge difference. I believe this will shorten the throw as well.
 

JohnnyEars

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My X has just under a full turn to lock and the button is magnificent!
Of the other paps, the 2.1 was my favourite button and although the auto firing was a pain, the lock ring was easy to use.
The 2.5 was the best looking switch and locking ring combo. The V3 looks ok, but I'm not a huge fan of the button cutouts in the lock ring.
(In my humble opinion, of course)
 

Todai

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Yes, you'll always feel better after playing with your nuts. :lol:

When you put the nut back into the X switch base screw it down all the way (Not tight) and then back it out a quarter to a half turn. This will make a huge difference. I believe this will shorten the throw as well.

OK, backed the nut out 1 full turn. Locking/unlocking takes 1 rotation now instead of one and one half. Throw distance does not seem to be any shorter, and now I have a rubbing sound almost like a high-pitched 'squeak' when turning the ring. I know what you're going to say next, but this switch is freshly cleaned. I'll keep messing with it.
 

mssam

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well the turn on the X is about one and a half of a rotation, but it should be considered about two or three turns because if I hold the X in one hand and turn the switch, I only go about a third of the way around before I back up and turn again, and again for the switch to be fully open. If you tried to turn the switch all the way in one motion your hand is upside down and your wrist is completely turned. Still doesnt stop me from loving the switch tho :D
 

kscoggins

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Yes, you'll always feel better after playing with your nuts. :lol:

When you put the nut back into the X switch base screw it down all the way (Not tight) and then back it out a quarter to a half turn. This will make a huge difference. I believe this will shorten the throw as well.

I just did this too -- I never thought about it, but one little nut-tweak and it made a world of difference. Now it will be even harder to decide which I like best. Guess that's why I ended up with both :)
 

yankeebobo

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I just did this too -- I never thought about it, but one little nut-tweak and it made a world of difference. Now it will be even harder to decide which I like best. Guess that's why I ended up with both :)

Wait...what? One tweaked but ended with both?
Someone please tell me where this conversation is going?
 

StrikeIII

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Sorry for all this, folks. I just wanted to say that I like the v3 switch better than the X, but seemed to have opened a can of worms that will no doubt result in some :facepalm::facepalm::facepalm::facepalm: from Perseas.

No worries Todai. Everyone has their preference but you did open it up to help others how to handle their X switch. Which the info i provided will even help when it's time to clean the X switch and needs to be put back together.
 

jrs99

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No worries Todai. Everyone has their preference but you did open it up to help others how to handle their X switch. Which the info i provided will even help when it's time to clean the X switch and needs to be put back together.
Have I ever mentioned how much I love the 2.5 switch?
...and yes, I had no clue that playing with my nuts would help my switch...
 

Todai

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I still can't deduce what's causing this squeaking sound. Something has to be rubbing against something else but for the life of me, I can't figure out what it is, and the only rubbing marks I can see on any of the parts is on the underside of the head of the M4 screw.

Interesting. I turned the spring upside down and the squeaking stopped completely -for a few minutes, now it's back. Back to research!
 

yankeebobo

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I still can't deduce what's causing this squeaking sound. Something has to be rubbing against something else but for the life of me, I can't figure out what it is, and the only rubbing marks I can see on any of the parts is on the underside of the head of the M4 screw.

Turn the lock nut around.
 
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