GP Series by VapourArt - Official Thread for GP Spheroid, GP PAPS, X, GP Piccolo, GP SnP and more - Part 3

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landman2k1

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My fluff is actually quite loose because I'm using max VG Grants. I've got it less packed than in my Spheroid.



I might try some of the japanese cotton too. The Spheroid made me a fan of silica again, and it seems to be the only atty I can get a good silica build in! I've got the Ithaka update and can't make silica (or ekowool) work to save my life, haha. Japanese cotton and rayon have been my go to for all my atties except my Spheroid.



Good to know! Think I should throw some vaseline on there or something?

Thanks for the help :)

I don't think it's necessary. Just the action of using it plus regular cleaning worked well for me.

As for the burnt taste, sorry I can't be more helpful. Maybe the micro/cotton will be the answer... :)
 

Dontknow

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I might try some of the japanese cotton too. The Spheroid made me a fan of silica again, and it seems to be the only atty I can get a good silica build in! I've got the Ithaka update and can't make silica (or ekowool) work to save my life, haha. Japanese cotton and rayon have been my go to for all my atties except my Spheroid.

I'd accepted that I was the only one having an issue with Heron! Like you've said, I also get great results with Spheroid and silica - but only sporadic periods of good results with the same setup on the Heron.
I hope you do manage to get a good reliable method on your Heron - and let us know when you do... So maybe I can copy it...


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Woody7781

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I'd accepted that I was the only one having an issue with Heron! Like you've said, I also get great results with Spheroid and silica - but only sporadic periods of good results with the same setup on the Heron.
I hope you do manage to get a good reliable method on your Heron - and let us know when you do... So maybe I can copy it...


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I struggled at first with silica as well in my heron. Things that help tremendously in my case, were #1, going a little smaller on the fluff and #2, the wick length should be the same as the diameter of the base of the Heron. Wrap the silica around the base til it touches itself and cut there. Those two small things helped a ton. Hope it helps.
 

kde01

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I struggled at first with silica as well in my heron. Things that help tremendously in my case, were #1, going a little smaller on the fluff and #2, the wick length should be the same as the diameter of the base of the Heron. Wrap the silica around the base til it touches itself and cut there. Those two small things helped a ton. Hope it helps.

Do you keep a loop on one side or use two strands? Do you press the coil together to get a faux-microcoil going, or just wrap over the silica and tighten down?

I found the best result was two strands, just a little bit longer than you said, wrapped with a tight micro-coil. A couple dry fires to bring it close like a faux-microcoil and it was tasting better, but still burnt.

Dontknow - Is yours brand new, too? Wondering if it just needs some breaking in.
 
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Woody7781

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Do you keel a loop on one side or use two strands? Do you press the coil together to get a faux-microcoil going, or just wrap over the silica and tighten down?

I found the best result was two strands, just a little bit longer than you said, wrapped with a tight micro-coil. A couple dry fires to bring it close like a faux-microcoil and it was tasting better, but still burnt.

Dontknow - Is yours brand new, too? Wondering if it just needs some breaking in.

I personally leave just one loop on one side. Had no problem wicking with Boba's bounty. And I wrapped a regular coil with the ribbon supplied by vapour art. 5 wraps. Standard old coil.
 

Dontknow

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Do you keep a loop on one side or use two strands? Do you press the coil together to get a faux-microcoil going, or just wrap over the silica and tighten down?

I found the best result was two strands, just a little bit longer than you said, wrapped with a tight micro-coil. A couple dry fires to bring it close like a faux-microcoil and it was tasting better, but still burnt.

Dontknow - Is yours brand new, too? Wondering if it just needs some breaking in.

Mine is still quite new - yes. I've tried (must be) dozens of different builds. More fluff. Less fluff. Maybe just haven't hit on the best combination, for me...
Quite strange really - as the Spheroid has been brilliant from day one to today...


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kde01

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Rebuilt the Heron with a microcoil and japanese cotton @ 1.7 ohms. Working quite well now. A little harsh with the GVC, not sure why. Might just be used to the smoother flavor I get from silica and ekowool. Reduced the amount of fluff I used to just a little bit less than I thought I needed. Around 1.5 cm x 6 cm of fluff.
 

perseas

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This is absolutely ridiculous. TWO Vapourdays in one month? Perseas is syncing these up so that they come the week after my paycheck. It's like he knows.

Thankfully I got everything I wanted last time. Just parts this time (I like stocking up so I have them before I need them) and maybe a fixed length PAPS X 18500 tube.

On another note, I've been having couple of issues and I hope you guys can help me out:
1) I received my PAPS and Heron last week, and finally managed to pick them up Saturday. I made about 7 builds on the Heron with 28 gauge, 30 gauge, and the included ribbon wire but everything tasted burnt. Just before I took it apart last night I started to get some normal flavor and I'm going to try a microcoil + cotton build today to see how that works. Any tips on avoiding burnt flavor on the Heron? I've got the Spheroid down pat and figured the Heron would be the same thing - I was wrong apparently.

Burnt taste: hot wire, hot spot, tight coil, too loose or too tight fluff, are some of the reasons. Torch your wick and pass the wire over a lighter's flame before you make the coil. Take a look at the builds and comments mentioned here: http://www.e-cigarette-forum.com/fo...notifications-tips-tricks-updates-thread.html

2) Can I use the Heron without the chamber top cap without sacrificing flavour? After my first rebuild Saturday night I took it off and put it to the side, haven't tried again with it. Thought it may have been partially at fault for the burnt flavor, but it wasn't. I'd like to put it back in as I think the tighter chamber will improve flavor. Right now I"m running the Heron like a fat Spheroid.

Quite the opposite happens. By using the topper, the flavour is slightly muted for many juices. The topper is made for certain cotton builds, not every build. It is an extra accessory, not a needed one.

3) The PAPS v3 switch. I love, and may have been spoiled by, the PAPS X switch. The v3 switch just doesn't compare, in my opinion. Running hybrid with the above Heron I have to unscrew the Heron first because if I do not the locking ring will engage tightly and I won't be able to unlock it without taking it off the mod. And when I try to unlock the locking ring my switch ends up unscrewing, too. The locking and unlocking take more force than the actual switch takes to stay affixed to the body so I end up taking off my switch every few times I unlock it for one reason or another. After several turns to lock/unlock the screw starts coming loose and the mod will fire when left on the table. I don't want to overtighten the screw so I just use my thumbnail. Works fine on the PAPS X, apparently isn't tight on the V3. Any way to adjust this so that I can replace batteries without unscrewing my atty and lock/unlock without taking the switch out or getting it stuck?

I think I need a 20x1 X switch in my life!

Tighten the negative contact with a screw driver, to secure it. This is not an X switch, it has different mechanics. When you change batteries, always put the switch from the unlocked position, screw and push at the same time in so the switch remains unlocked till it is flush with the tube. The locking ring has reverse threading to keep the switch steady, while you lock or unlock it. But you have to start from the unlocked position.
 
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perseas

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Mine is still quite new - yes. I've tried (must be) dozens of different builds. More fluff. Less fluff. Maybe just haven't hit on the best combination, for me...
Quite strange really - as the Spheroid has been brilliant from day one to today...


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I put in my Heron a fluff strip 60 mm x 17 mm, micro coil at 1,2Ω - 1,8Ω depending on the mood. Spheroid is more difficult to master than Heron.
 

kde01

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Burnt taste: hot wire, hot spot, tight coil, too loose or too tight fluff, are some of the reasons. Torch your wick and pass the wire over a lighter's flame before you make the coil. Take a look at the builds and comments mentioned here: http://www.e-cigarette-forum.com/fo...notifications-tips-tricks-updates-thread.html

I'll definitely take a look at the thread, thanks! Very possible the fluff was either too loose or the coil too tight. I've not tried torching silica yet (never felt the need to since I always get a great vape from it) but I'll definitely give that a shot. I would definitely like to use silica over cotton.


Quite the opposite happens. By using the topper, the flavour is slightly muted for many juices. The topper is made for certain cotton builds, not every build. It is an extra accessory, not a needed one.

Good to know! I'll rebuild today with silica and no topper.


Tighten the negative contact with a screw driver, to secure it. This is not an X switch, it has different mechanics. When you change batteries, always put the switch from the unlocked position, screw and push at the same time in so the switch remains unlocked till it is flush with the tube. The locking ring has reverse threading to keep the switch steady, while you lock or unlock it. But you have to start from the unlocked position.

I nipped up tight the screw last night and noticed it was easier to tighten down the switch and it made things better. Still got stuck once, though, but I'm sure that will get better with use. Just tightened it down hard while pressing the button, firing the mod a bit but thoroughly tightening it down to the body. Seems to work well.

Before I was hesitant about tightening the switch down while pressing the button as I didn't want to fire the mod for a very long time. Doesn't seem bad if you just take a couple second to tighten the switch up, though.

It seems it's very crucial for the PAPS switch to be quite tight, definitely tighter than fingernail tight. The PAPS X switch is more forgiving in that respect, in my opinion. Glad I've got it right now, though!

I put in my Heron a fluff strip 60 mm x 17 mm, micro coil at 1,2Ω - 1,8Ω depending on the mood. Spheroid is more difficult to master than Heron.

Really? Then I must be less stupid than I thought if I can at least get the Spheroid right :p
 

perseas

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I have returned from my slumber for a bit :)

Hello all!

Been crazy in my life as of late, so my forum surfing ways had to die down to a minimum at best.

Glad things are slowing down and I can enjoy life again though!

How is everyone? I miss anything awesome?

Hello my friend, you didn't miss anything spectacular, we are cool :)

We chat in slow rhythms about liquids, builds and we vape a lot!

zedudu9a.jpg
 
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jpcwon

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Ah, perseas. Good to hear from you, friend :)

Hope all is well.

What's up Path?! Hope you're well!! And I hope everyone else here is doing excellent too!! :)

I am once again on the road for work (I'm a field service engineer for a medical instruments co.). Sitting in Memphis airport as I type this, then heading to Atlanta then back home.....Normally I'd have my Piccolo with me, but my Spheroids needed to be recoiled/rewicked and I didn't have time to do it before I left. This time I have my Lux v3 with me with a Rose v2...I am loving the GP holsters in this situation as they protect the mod nicely while traveling!! :)
 
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