GP Series by VapourArt - Official Thread for GP Spheroid, GP PAPS, X, GP Piccolo, GP SnP and more - Part 3

[cliffy15]

As for taste: It sounds like you're not getting proper wicking through the chamber/top cap (unless you're burning it with too much power - doubtful in your case).

To simplify the issue, test your build with a saturated wick with an empty tank and the chamber/top cap off. (replace the Heron tube and take a vape - removing and dripping directly onto the wick and replacing the Heron tube if necessary). This should be working fine at this point. If it doesn't, you have an issue with your build. You may have too much wick and are choking off the liquid or you may need to revise your coil build/positioning.

Let us know where you continue to have issues.

edit: my wick is KGD cotton, and not rayon, so my previous pic may not suit yours as an example. no, I can't figure out why it's shrinking so much either...heh. it floods but the taste is excellent. at this point my problem is different but I think I may already have too much fluff at 160mm in length (what dimensions do you fluff users use?)

 

[cliffy15]

(and as for my own issue... I now have 190mm length of fluff crammed into my Heron to try and resolve my flooding issues... That's almost the full length of my sheet of fluff! Will update later...)

 

[perseas]

Hey all. I'm having huge issues with the heron v2. Aside from the device cutting me every time it's taken apart and not mounted to a device and the fact it never sits flush as designed the worst part is a terrible taste every vape. I've cleaned and cleaned and cleaned this including now what must be a total of an hour of ultrasonic time. inevitably as soon as the build heats up a bit the horrible taste of metal is there.

Someone once said to me they had this kind of issue and ultimately and strangely the only thing that made it go away was swapping o rings. For me what's strange is that the device doesn't typically stink of metal. Etc.

Per GP SUGGESTION I'll try a milk soak and another rinse and sonic. I guess I'll use all the spare o rings and place these in a bag.

I have to say considering how great the piccoloid v2 is I'm really disappointed wih the the fact the HnP doesn't fit very well seamlessly. The tank is so sharp it is actually a requirement to use a cloth to dissemble and the flavor is so tainted. About the only good thing is the switch on the paps v4.

I'd appreciate any thoughts or advice. I've tried locating the coil father out maybe 1.5mm from the screws and up to 2mm off the deck. I also find the chimney design. To be extremely poor. Especially compared to the spheroid and for thick eliquid. It's a fidgety sharp heavy atomizer right now that just isn't working.

GP of course has offered to take the device in and examine what may be the issue. Their support has been very good and I'm a big fan of the brand. I can't however drive for at least six more weeks and would love to be able to figure this out if possible

Sorry to appear or of nowhere with bad news and complaining.

If it helps the piccoloid is tied for my favorite device ever. It's fantastic and well built. Seamless works. Taste is great. I love it. That probably makes dealing with HnP issues even harder.

Thanks for the help! I'm sure this is either a strange contaminant issue. A build issue. Or something completely one off. GP seems to have very good quality control. Hopefully I am missing something. After the milk bath tonight or tomorrow I'll put a build in and provide images. I'm a relatively experienced vapor. I build everything almost. Build was 7 wraps of 28 gauge around a 2.5mm coil master v3 winder and wicked wih rayon. Cotton bacon. And koh gen do for testing. The flavor contamination happens after the heat crosses a certain line. Maybe a second and a half in and hen subsequently until allowed to cool. Go says all their raw materials are certified so they don't believe some poor metal could have made it into production.

I've also tried five liquids in the tank lest it be a strange device specific flavor issue.

Cheers!

Hello mate,

We asked you to send back the unit and as soon as we have it in our hands, we'll inspect it and if we can reproduce your issue, we'll replace it with a new one in case we can't solve it. The whole procedure will take one, two days and we'll send back with DHL Express the replacement unit or the fixed one. Total time won't be 6 weeks as you wrote, it will be much sooner. There is no other report for this ever in any of our atomizers and I am very curious to find out what is wrong there. Of course we can fully refund you if you wish to, without any further questions. In one way or another, a satisfactory solution will be found in a quick manner, no worries

Some technical clarifications:
Heron v2 is 35% lighter than Heron v1, I wouldn't call it heavy when it is just 54 gr.
Spheroid is way sharper than Heron, because its tube has thinner edges. The compromise of a virtual seamless construction is the thin edges of the connected parts. If you twist the tube a bit, it will sit better and the O-rings will relax with use.

Cliffy covered every build related case that might cause issues. If I think something more, I'll comment about it.

 

[qorax]

Hello mate,

We asked you to send back the unit and as soon as we have it in our hands, we'll inspect it and if we can reproduce your issue, we'll replace it with a new one in case we can't solve it. The whole procedure will take one, two days and we'll send back with DHL Express the replacement unit or the fixed one. Total time won't be 6 weeks as you wrote, it will be much sooner. There is no other report for this ever in any of our atomizers and I am very curious to find out what is wrong there. Of course we can fully refund you if you wish to, without any further questions. In one way or another, a satisfactory solution will be found in a quick manner, no worries

Some technical clarifications:
Heron v2 is 35% lighter than Heron v1, I wouldn't call it heavy when it is just 54 gr.
Spheroid is way sharper than Heron, because its tube has thinner edges. The compromise of a virtual seamless construction is the thin edges of the connected parts. If you twist the tube a bit, it will sit better and the O-rings will relax with use.

Cliffy covered every build related case that might cause issues. If I think something more, I'll comment about it.

Can I like it +100 times?
Customer Service Par Excellence = GP!
Ps:
1. Just read thru @h00ligan post.
2. His woes are 'unique' and the 'first'
3. Heron2 & Spheroid4 both give out clear & clean taste no matter how you set-it-up
4. Both are the most no-nonsense rebuildable atties in the Globe
5. Unless one's coil is "touching" either the base or the posts or the chamber ring walls - no off-taste is possible
6. I'd suggest the OP checks out point #5 stringently.

 

[perseas]

(and as for my own issue... I now have 190mm length of fluff crammed into my Heron to try and resolve my flooding issues... That's almost the full length of my sheet of fluff! Will update later...)

I use 90 mm length of fluff, 28 gauge, 2 mm coil at 1.57Ω and it vapes great!

I think that 190 mm length is so tight that it won't hold much liquid and it will flood the chamber eventually.

 

[perseas]

Hello mate,

We asked you to send back the unit and as soon as we have it in our hands, we'll inspect it and if we can reproduce your issue, we'll replace it with a new one in case we can't solve it. The whole procedure will take one, two days and we'll send back with DHL Express the replacement unit or the fixed one. Total time won't be 6 weeks as you wrote, it will be much sooner. There is no other report for this ever in any of our atomizers and I am very curious to find out what is wrong there. Of course we can fully refund you if you wish to, without any further questions. In one way or another, a satisfactory solution will be found in a quick manner, no worries

Some technical clarifications:
Heron v2 is 35% lighter than Heron v1, I wouldn't call it heavy when it is just 54 gr.
Spheroid is way sharper than Heron, because its tube has thinner edges. The compromise of a virtual seamless construction is the thin edges of the connected parts. If you twist the tube a bit, it will sit better and the O-rings will relax with use.

Cliffy covered every build related case that might cause issues. If I think something more, I'll comment about it.

I have to correct my post, after reading your recent email, I didn't notice the time. You cannot move for that period of time, sorry, my best wishes for your quick recovery. In that case, we shall find another solution after a bit of troubleshooting here. Make sure that your coil doesn't short with the topper or the deck as people mentioned before and try the milk cleansing as well. You can clean the GPin with water and a mild detergent.

 

[h00ligan]

As for taste: It sounds like you're not getting proper wicking through the chamber/top cap (unless you're burning it with too much power - doubtful in your case).

To simplify the issue, test your build with a saturated wick with an empty tank and the chamber/top cap off. (replace the Heron tube and take a vape - removing and dripping directly onto the wick and replacing the Heron tube if necessary). This should be working fine at this point. If it doesn't, you have an issue with your build. You may have too much wick and are choking off the liquid or you may need to revise your coil build/positioning.

Let us know where you continue to have issues.

edit: my wick is KGD cotton, and not rayon, so my previous pic may not suit yours as an example. no, I can't figure out why it's shrinking so much either...heh. it floods but the taste is excellent. at this point my problem is different but I think I may already have too much fluff at 160mm in length (what dimensions do you fluff users use?)

Thanks for all your responses.

The flavor - So I've done as you said and I also did the milk bath. I was trying s Fluffless build but I guess I can try fluff as well. I've tried a couple different coil configurations spaced vs contact and changing the distance from the posts and deck. So what I notice is the metal taste is much worse with the chimney top on for a Fluffless build than when it's off simulating s fluff build with just a saturated wick. That said its present all the time and the more vaping is done he worse it gets. The appearance and my guess is that I actually taste the metal as it heats up. The bitter the tank gets the stronger the metal taste gets. So I just can't think at this point it's not heat related. That did for cleaning I've done just about everything I can.

The gaps - I think it could be a couple things here. And it's improved now. Not as good as as the spheroid. It doesn't seem like it will ever be that seamless maybe due to the below mentioned thicker walls. This is with no chimney cap on so nothing is pushing it out. The tank just won't stay "seamless" with the rest of it. In the worst case scenario the top chimney also separates slightly with the tank sleeve too - that happens when I have the chimney top cap on. Like I said before the piccoloid is so truly seamless looking I just can't say the HnP is on the same level - probably due to the press fit tank vs screw on.

Also is here any way to align the cyclops air hole? To either push it around more or line it up with the paps logo? Maybe there's a tip or trick to where to start screwing it together.

If I hold the device and push it down then it gets properly seamless. Maybe it needs time to break in or something to get rid of the seam.

Hello mate,

We asked you to send back the unit and as soon as we have it in our hands, we'll inspect it and if we can reproduce your issue, we'll replace it with a new one in case we can't solve it. The whole procedure will take one, two days and we'll send back with DHL Express the replacement unit or the fixed one. Total time won't be 6 weeks as you wrote, it will be much sooner. There is no other report for this ever in any of our atomizers and I am very curious to find out what is wrong there. Of course we can fully refund you if you wish to, without any further questions. In one way or another, a satisfactory solution will be found in a quick manner, no worries

Some technical clarifications:
Heron v2 is 35% lighter than Heron v1, I wouldn't call it heavy when it is just 54 gr.
Spheroid is way sharper than Heron, because its tube has thinner edges. The compromise of a virtual seamless construction is the thin edges of the connected parts. If you twist the tube a bit, it will sit better and the O-rings will relax with use.

Cliffy covered every build related case that might cause issues. If I think something more, I'll comment about it.

Thanks for the help. Yah absolutely I'll send it back. I'll
Double check what I wrote because j felt I was clear that It's my delay for six weeks not yours. I had two spine surgeries in the last four weeks. I can't drive or even really walk right now. If I didn't I'm very sorry as my intention was certainly to be clear I was the reason for the delay not your support. Don't want people thinking you're slow and I apologize if that presented wrongly.

You guys am have done all I could have asked for. Given me a recommendation to see if the flavor could be removed with milk and given me the option to send it in. I'm sorry if I appeared ungrateful or that I in any way presented you had bad support. That's not the case at all and honestly I was trying to show that support was good. So I must have missed the mark or something. My point is that I personally am completely laid up for a minimum of six weeks. That's a long time to have a nice vaping device not working properly so I came here hoping to find some peer support and ideas on what I may be doing incorrectly. I hadn't realized GP team members were here or looking for any further help. You've been great. I just can't do anything about it.nAnd I figured it wouldn't hurt to ask if anyone else had experienced anything like this given I have a minimum of six weeks to try and figure this out a bit each day. Ive nothing else to do. Not even physical therapy yet!

You're right on the weight. Heavy is a subjective term
To Me the HnP is a heavy device. I don't use all metal tanks and mods typically so my rating of heavy is from glass and polycarbonate tanks and most recently a titanium tank. So yes they're different things. I should have said its the heaviest tank I use right now, Not broadly categorized it as heavy. I'm sure compared to some tanks it's not heavy at all. I also shouldn't have phrased it the way I did. Reading it back it seems like a slight - maybe I was in a bad mood sorry.

For the flavor issue I'm out of ideas. I also swapped all the orings for the replacements in the box. It didn't work. As soon as vaping starts and the tank starts to heat up it just tastes like metal. I'm sure I could minimize that with a higher resistance lower heat build but that's just not how I vape. Going above 1.2 on a mech wouldn't satisfy me.

So I've never cut myself on the spheroid for what it's worth. Probably because I can get the tank off and leave he base attached to the mod.

I remove he press fit tank and then I'm left with this

So then I try to unscrew the chimney which won't unscrew without taking he whole atomizer off

If I now grab the chimney with right hand and bottom gpin/ thread area with my left. I will. Without fail. Cut my left hand. So every time I want to adjust my wick or something I have to use cloths to avoid it I guess. I wonder if I'm missing s pix with the g pin that would allow me to get he chimney unscrewed while keeping he base attached to the paps v4 ? With the way the tube is designed and the fact I can't unscrew the switch from the bottom I can't relieve enough tension to get the chimney off and the atomizer on

The cuts are probably my fault I just don't see how I can retain the build deck On the mod and not the chimney. And if the base comes out with the chimney then there is no where to grab to separate which doesn't expose the hand to very sharp edges.

With the piccoloid I can release a bit of pressure by loosening the bottom Screw and leave the base of the spheroid attached to the mod. Which prevents having sharp threads and such sliding around.

That said even with it like this

I can't get he chimney to unscrew right now even using a microfiber towel. It's weird - seems like the press fit turning is tightening he chimney down. I'll try to lubricate then O rings with vg and see if that helps. Because I'm not going to use tools on it and right now it's too tightly on there for hand loosening. I'll put it in the freezer and then try again. But the fact I'm somehow tightening it (when I spin the tank for logo alignment probably ) but can't unscrew t by hand is why I want the base to stay on the mod but can't get it too. That to me is about the gpin and where the pressure rests. I'm sure there's a tip
Or trick to get the chimney unscrewed without taking the mod with it I just haven't found it. Except for trying to apply downward force to make that happen. I think probably this will get easier with time. Also maybe it's a hand strength issue specific to me and my recovery. It's possible. I was just surprised to cut myself a few times but I'm open to the fact it's completely my fault,

Thanks so much for the help. At his point I'm going to have to send it in when I can walk / drive / move properly. That's where the six week wait is.

I hope everyone here gets that I was looking for help not trying to report that GP or the product were bad. Every product has issues and it could well be user error. At this point having cleaned so thoroughly and based on my experience it seems clear to me some element of metal I'm the tank is what's causing the flavor contamination. As to why I'll have to leave that to you lot to figure out. But definitely heat increases and so does the really bad metal taste.

The rest of It was just secondary stuff compared to the flawless piccoloid I have.

Thanks again everyone !


Edit - so without the chimney top the device is pretty seamless. The minute I put it on with or without wick it's not. So the chimney isn't sitting right for me which would explain some other stuff. However it looks like it is.

Then I add the chimney top (there is. I wick in there right now bit if I push down it goes lower lower

Then the whole tank separates more with the top
Cap on.

So clearly the chimney top cap isn't sitting down all the way. I don't know why. I've replaced o rings. It's lubricated. But that's what's causing the gap issues. May the base of the deck I wonder if this o ring is the right size or maybe too thick and that's what is pushing it up and away seems logical.

For the sake of conversation and troubleshooting I added another wrap to get to 28 and am trying contact and captured from the inside out on the posts. I have several things to wick with. I'll
Do kgd this time as I did last.

So
With this test the vape is very anemic as is expect from 8 wraps of 28 gauge on a mech. The metal taste is there but reduced because it never gets really warm.

Anyway. That's where I am. Thanks again for the help and I'll have to get it back I guess when I can. If anyone has any other ideas or spots something I've done wrong let me know!

 

[rockstarr]

I can't see your pics but if I'm understanding your explanations correctly your probably getting a short somewhere and that would explain the taste issue.. This atty is awesome, hang in there it's worth it!

 

[qorax]

@h00ligan
^That hairline gap (your 4th pic from the bottom) will be there in the Heron2. Due to, as you rightly stated, its press-fit config against the threaded-in Spheroid4.

It could be more pronounced if the chamber ring is not fully threaded down. You got to ensure that it is aligned well and threads-in smoothly (and completely) before you press-fit the chamber-cup (topper). Else, the topper will remain slightly lifted, which will stop the chimney stem to settle down fully. Thus a gap, either at the bell end or at the AFC end (like your 2nd pic from the bottom).

 

[h00ligan]

I can't see your pics but if I'm understanding your explanations correctly your probably getting a short somewhere and that would explain the taste issue.. This atty is awesome, hang in there it's worth it!

Nah it's not a short as I'm using a HnP. If it were shorting the battery would have blown up by now I'm always very careful with mechs to avoid shorts. What I feel is that the coil may be too close to the screws and the heat it's generating is causing the metal to me it an odor. The on,y fix for this would be to use a 2mm diameter coil not a 2.5. If I do am2.5 and move it out more then I'm not going to be anywhere near centered over the air hole. I doubt it's the 316 of the tank. My question when I emailed was whether it was possible an ancillary part like the posts or deck screws could have accidentally been provided at s lower quality. However they stated all parts are certified. So I guess that's not it. To me given the relationship between metal temperature and increase in the metal taste it has to be a part in there emitting when it gets hot. If I had them available to me if swap
Posts and minor metal parts. Tomorrow I'll replace the deck screws and the lux parts to rule those out. Unfortunately even doing this amount of trouble shooting tonight was a mistake due to my impatience and has put me in a ton of
Pain. The surgery was a few days ago so I really should be doing nothing. It's so tough to literally do nothing but neck surgery is - well you never realize how very minor Movement comes from or involves your neck. After the first dr said he'd hospitalize me if I didn't stay still. So I guess I better put this away and just take notes for a few more days until I'm a bit more up and around !

@h00ligan
^That hairline gap (your 4th pic from the bottom) will be there in the Heron2. Due to, as you rightly stated, its press-fit config against the threaded-in Spheroid4.

It could be more pronounced if the chamber ring is not fully threaded down. You got to ensure that it is aligned well and threads-in smoothly (and completely) before you press-fit the chamber-cup (topper). Else, the topper will remain slightly lifted, which will stop the chimney stem to settle down fully. Thus a gap, either at the bell end or at the AFC end (like your 2nd pic from the bottom).

Thanks qorax. I think part of it was initially the tank was in wrong way around. The lip Was on the bottom. The gap that exists now when the chamber ring is on isn't bad. It's just not quite as seamless but as you state a press fit isn't going to be. It's better now. However when I do
A wicked build I'll show you how it goes. In sure that's a user error and I need to find he right amount of wick etc.

I'm Positive there's no cross threading happening. The easiest way to
Ensure that is to unscrew until you hear a click and then screw it in. That pretty much ensures no cross thread.

The gaps are minor at this point. They were much worse before this last cleaning It's not just possible But likely that one of the orings I replaced was off and causing issues. When I get the full build in there I can check again

As far as it goes for my style of vaping in not a big fan of this chimney design. I'll Probably end up using filler to avoid having to
Use the chimney top cap. It's just far too fiddly for me especially wicking my very thick , as you know, juices. I really like the method you use for piccoloid wicking which is sort of upside down hurricane wicking. I've tried that in here but I can't get it to take and it pushes things out of whack.

I'm not opposed to just unfamiliar with filler. Are there any restrictions with filler material and viscosity? I'm planning on watching a filler build video. I also wonder if the filler being around the tank will prevent the heating up and therefore prevent most if not all Of the taste. This could be a bandaid but it's not really a fix - just like the higher resistance build wasn't. Just s trouble shooting step. Where can I buy filler in the USA? Is it so,etching I can get on Amazon? I guess it's a repurposed product. Maybe I read for aquariums?

The best way I can explain the flavor is like a penny was sitting in the eliquid. That sort of dirty copper I just had iodine injected at the doctor taste.

Cheers for the help
Gents! Sorry for the typos / gals and multiple corrections. Swelling around the ancillary nerves has my hands not quite right - so with that I'm off for

 

[h00ligan]

I have to correct my post, after reading your recent email, I didn't notice the time. You cannot move for that period of time, sorry, my best wishes for your quick recovery. In that case, we shall find another solution after a bit of troubleshooting here. Make sure that your coil doesn't short with the topper or the deck as people mentioned before and try the milk cleansing as well. You can clean the GPin with water and a mild detergent.

Thanks very much. I'm glad you saw that. I felt bad because first I had missed in tapatalk that this was official - as in GP maintain it - I thought I was trying peer support. I hate to think I caused people to think of GP poorly. I'd hope everyone would understand that every single product ever made has had at least one unit that has a issue. The support is what's important and it's been great so far. I truly appreciate it.

@qorax to your point about no off flavor is possible that's what's so confusing. The posts, chimney cap, walls. Nothing is touching. And it's not a very low ohm build. But definitely the more heat that comes the more taste is there. I don't for a minute ink it's the main metal or anything.


Also sorry it seems j so,ehow missed a few of these posts before continuing with the conversations. I'm just seeing them now so please understand that if it seems I ignored any response. That was unintentional.

 

[h00ligan]

Ready for work

This is very good looking. Nice! What's is the brown a mod or a sleeve of Some kind?

I'm off to watch some filler videos I think. I don't think I'd use it in the spheroid as the regular build is working so well.

 

[perseas]

The cuts are probably my fault I just don't see how I can retain the build deck On the mod and not the chimney. And if the base comes out with the chimney then there is no where to grab to separate which doesn't expose the hand to very sharp edges.

I separate the deck ring from the chimney by simply pinching the chamber lid from its top with my thumb and index finger and pulling upwards. Brush the topper's interior with a toothbrush and detergent, just in case there is a polishing residue there, although we have passed everything via ultrasonic cleansing and rubbing alcohol afterwards.

 

[qorax]

Good Morning buddy!

Nah it's not a short as I'm using a HnP. If it were shorting the battery would have blown up by now

That's absolutely an urban myth. Our batteries just don't go blowing up on our face at the drop of a hat, err user error. There will be tell-tale signs before even gasses start escaping. And to have a battery actually blowup we will have to uncomfortable (near impossibly) hold a very hot mod with gasses escaping (from the switch, holes, topcap wherever), oversee the 'bulging' / deforming of the mod and all the while constantly firing the switch. And on top of that we should be using either a fake battery or a non-IMR one.

Moreover, GP Paps (post mid-2013) come with a GPin topcap. That has a spring activating the pogo pin. Which will collapse at the hint of a hard short. Thus discontinuing the current and our device won't fire however we press the switch.

My question when I emailed was whether it was possible an ancillary part like the posts or deck screws could have accidentally been provided at s lower quality. However they stated all parts are certified.

Impossible. GP Paps is one of the only few mods / modders who offer guaranteed EU certified 316 grade stainless steel in a full body construction. It is something which makes them so lovably different, thus our fan following.

But likely that one of the orings I replaced was off and causing issues.

Why did you do that? In my years of vaping I have not yet replaced any O-ring any where, for any mod or atty till today. Except of course if I "lost" one while washing. And it is not just for GP, it's for any make of device I have. All my spares bags yet remain untouched. I trust the modder more than myself

As far as it goes for my style of vaping in not a big fan of this chimney design. I'll Probably end up using filler to avoid having to Use the chimney top cap. It's just far too fiddly for me especially wicking my very thick , as you know, juices.

If you find the non-filler mode fiddly, using a filler might actually pose more challenges to you. You need to cut it and wrap it more diligently based on the various juices you'd be using. Different viscosity - different cut sizes and wraps. Besides the ability to keep the cotton tails in place to "catch" the juice.

And btw, the only advantage the filler offers is "non-leakage" while vaping under frequently changing altitudes, e.g. while flying. I have found the flavor profile to be marginally higher using the filler. Something most vapers will not recognize at all.

Are there any restrictions with filler material and viscosity? I'm planning on watching a filler build video. I also wonder if the filler being around the tank will prevent the heating up and therefore prevent most if not all Of the taste. Where can I buy filler in the USA? Is it so,etching I can get on Amazon? I guess it's a repurposed product. Maybe I read for aquariums?

Restrictions (or taste), as stated above. Herons come with a generous amount of filler in the package. however, if you need more you can always purchase it from Vapour Art itself. Their's work the best on Spheroids & Herons. Alternatively you can purchase any synthetic Aquarium Filter Pad from your pet stores or Amazon, viz. SERA, Juwel, Fluval, Acurel etc.

This is very good looking. Nice! What's is the brown a mod or a sleeve of Some kind?

It is a mod. JM16, Aged Brass version.

All the best!

 

[perseas]

One more thing about the fluff builds: I find the vapour to be more dense and rich and the liquid consumption is more efficient compared to the classic tank system.

 

[h00ligan]

Good Morning buddy!

That's absolutely an urban myth. Our batteries just don't go blowing up on our face at the drop of a hat, err user error. There will be tell-tale signs before even gasses start escaping. And to have a battery actually blowup we will have to uncomfortable (near impossibly) hold a very hot mod with gasses escaping (from the switch, holes, topcap wherever), oversee the 'bulging' / deforming of the mod and all the while constantly firing the switch. And on top of that we should be using either a fake battery or a non-IMR one.

Winky face after the the blown o comment mate. A tongue in cheek comment due to everyone worrying about "blowing up". However a short would produce no vapor and a very hot hand as you stated. I've certainly shorted a mod in the past and it takes about two seconds of not working for one to be pretty aware something is wrong. My main point was you'd know if it was shorted. That's interesting about he gpin. Because the silver spring couldn't take the heat I assume the pin would collapse.

Impossible. GP Paps is one of the only few mods / modders who offer guaranteed EU certified 316 grade stainless steel in a full body construction. It is something which makes them so lovably different, thus our fan following.

I wasn't saying they provided less than 316. I was suggesting that their supplier may have given them a bad batch. Certainly within the realm
Of possible. And given what im experiencing if the metal is emitting a foul flavor it's likely some ancillary part not anything they touched directly. As you stated they are known for a high standard. Point is if you are tasting metal or contaminant after thorough cleaning including close to an hour of home use ultrasonic cleaning you have to start considering what else it may be. And given they machine so well and it's their focus considering a deck screw which is likely sourced (they don't have a it making screws afaik) seems more likely than it being any of the metals they directly manufacture into a given item. Whe. You've exhausted every logical possibility you have to start looking at things they source in and may not have such tight control over in manufacture.

Why did you do that? In my years of vaping I have not yet replaced any O-ring any where, for any mod or atty till today. Except of course if I "lost" one while washing. And it is not just for GP, it's for any make of device I have. All my spares bags yet remain untouched. I trust the modder more than myself

Two reasons and first a note - I kept the other o rings. Ultimately they can retain contamination flavor. If you put a bunch of silicon or Delrin or anything like that in a place exposed to a strong lasting contaminant the taste taste and smell
Can stick to them through what seems like immeasurable cleaning. Second it's something that again GP don't make. Who knows if something happened to a batch of them. Again exhausting all logical Possibilities it's best to start considering the things GP aren't manufacturing I think. Given they're consumable parts and I had the spares pack - I replaced them. Also regarding the sealing etc. occasionally I've found o rings that are wider in one part than in another or off in some way. Or seated badly. So why try and isolate a thing when troubleshooting issues when replacing all the o rings is so simple. And at least half of the issue was resolved. The fit wound up being way better after replacing them so either an o ring was seated incorrectly from the cleanings I did it shipping or just was off slightly in manufacture. The gaps and such were so slight it wouldn't take much to be off. So the k ring replacement was the smart move. Like j said I retained the ones that shipped out. For the same reason j will replace the deck screws today. I don't expect it to solve the flavor issue but In my world when you're at a point that nothing seems to be working if you have spare parts and there's even a .1% chance those parts can fix the issue. You have to do it. The chance GP sent lower than 316L surely is so low it would be considered practically impossible. But when you introduce other suppliers you certainly have to increase form Practically impossible to extremely unlikely. So why not change to rule it out ? Again I have six weeks and no way to get it back so at this point I may as well do every bit of troubleshooting I can right? I do understand that it's very unlikely. In. My field I've seen a few things happen that are considered very unlikely and it ends up being the issues - like a trans continental lan. failing due to a pin out inside one connector being .25mm too short (true story!). Biggest mistake one can make is labeling hints as impossible when they're just very unlikely I do get your point though and honestly if I could get this off to them I wouldn't spend the time doing all this. It's here. I'm here. I may as well remove any chance of fault If I replace the o rings and the decks crews and still have flavor issues we can effectively say that it's not the ancillary products. [/quote]

If you find the non-filler mode fiddly, using a filler might actually pose more challenges to you. You need to cut it and wrap it more diligently based on the various juices you'd be using. Different viscosity - different cut sizes and wraps. Besides the ability to keep the cotton tails in place to "catch" the juice.

And btw, the only advantage the filler offers is "non-leakage" while vaping under frequently changing altitudes, e.g. while flying. I have found the flavor profile to be marginally higher using the filler. Something most vapers will not recognize at all.

For me the fiddly part is wick. And that's based on my preferred wick and juice. The issue that I've run into in early use js using a dense wick In tightly with a 2.5mm coil. It's just a lot of cotton to get trough the wick holes. I may do a split wick and drop half down and put half through. Or do a tape build. I'll focus more on that when the flavor is right.

Restrictions (or taste), as stated above. Herons come with a generous amount of filler in the package. however, if you need more you can always purchase it from Vapour Art itself. Their's work the best on Spheroids & Herons. Alternatively you can purchase any synthetic Aquarium Filter Pad from your pet stores or Amazon, viz. SERA, Juwel, Fluval, Acurel etc.

It is a mod. JM16, Aged Brass version.

All the best!

Thanks as always for your thoughts. I tried a new coil last night with 26 gauge kanthal. I wish I had a 510 adaptor for the heron so k could grow a nickel build in there or titanium or stainless steel. I don't vape kanthal much these days. Maybe I'm just super sensitive to the kanthal taste now. But I don't taste it in my gem. That said I'm going to build a stainless steel coil today and try it. I want to see that it's the heat directly affecting the flavor. I also need to rule out its the battery polluting the flavor. Like its emitting an odor that's being breathed into the air intake and polluting the flavor. Also unlikely by probably worth testing to get tank off the mod. So maybe I have to order a 510
Adaptor to
See

This situation is so strange - as you,GP, and I have all stated. So at some point unlikely things have to be considered. These are juices and coil wire I've used in many other devices. Wick I've used. And I've even bought new stuff to try and resolve it. So all the way around it's probably time to try things to remedy t which seem unlikely to fix.

If we worked with Occam's razor we'd just say. Heat is present t at the time the taste goes bad so it's got to be something with how something in the path of inhale heats.

I'll Order the 510 when I get the 650 paps tube unfortunately that probably has to wait a while too as I just got clobbered with an unexpected medical bill when my insurance decided not to cover something. All the pennies count! When I pass along the wae ii or something ill redirect those funds to GP products if there available then.

 

[cliffy15]

I use 90 mm length of fluff, 28 gauge, 2 mm coil at 1.57Ω and it vapes great!

I think that 190 mm length is so tight that it won't hold much liquid and it will flood the chamber eventually.

Thanks for the reference, P! I , too, think that 190mm is far too much filler as well. Can you tell me what kind of liquid you're using with that? Is it high vg? I make 50/50 liquids at this point so I'm sure I'll have to adjust to accommodate the thinner mix.

It's tightly packed (but doesn't seem to leak through the AFC when it gets jostled around in my pocket) and it certainly doesn't hold much liquid at all.

I just didn't know what else to work on since I used different wick and wicking positions and different coil positions as well and I really didn't have a starting point to try based onthe lack other people's fluff builds on the new Heron.

I guess the topper in the v1 gave me a wider margin of error than I had thought so I didn't really have to get it just right. I never built without the topper so I'm going to have to get used to that.

The plan I started off with 110mm and went up in 20mm increments until it wouldn't flood. I think I should go back to shorter fluff and adjust other things. I'll go back and try a few more things now with a more reasonable amount of fluff

 

[cliffy15]

Winky face after the the blown o comment mate. A tongue in cheek comment due to everyone worrying about "blowing up". However a short would produce no vapor and a very hot hand as you stated. I've certainly shorted a mod in the past and it takes about two seconds of not working for one to be pretty aware something is wrong. My main point was you'd know if it was shorted. That's interesting about he gpin. Because the silver spring couldn't take the heat I assume the pin would collapse.




I wasn't saying they provided less than 316. I was suggesting that their supplier may have given them a bad batch. Certainly within the realm
Of possible. And given what im experiencing if the metal is emitting a foul flavor it's likely some ancillary part not anything they touched directly. As you stated they are known for a high standard. Point is if you are tasting metal or contaminant after thorough cleaning including close to an hour of home use ultrasonic cleaning you have to start considering what else it may be. And given they machine so well and it's their focus considering a deck screw which is likely sourced (they don't have a it making screws afaik) seems more likely than it being any of the metals they directly manufacture into a given item. Whe. You've exhausted every logical possibility you have to start looking at things they source in and may not have such tight control over in manufacture.




Two reasons and first a note - I kept the other o rings. Ultimately they can retain contamination flavor. If you put a bunch of silicon or Delrin or anything like that in a place exposed to a strong lasting contaminant the taste taste and smell
Can stick to them through what seems like immeasurable cleaning. Second it's something that again GP don't make. Who knows if something happened to a batch of them. Again exhausting all logical Possibilities it's best to start considering the things GP aren't manufacturing I think. Given they're consumable parts and I had the spares pack - I replaced them. Also regarding the sealing etc. occasionally I've found o rings that are wider in one part than in another or off in some way. Or seated badly. So why try and isolate a thing when troubleshooting issues when replacing all the o rings is so simple. And at least half of the issue was resolved. The fit wound up being way better after replacing them so either an o ring was seated incorrectly from the cleanings I did it shipping or just was off slightly in manufacture. The gaps and such were so slight it wouldn't take much to be off. So the k ring replacement was the smart move. Like j said I retained the ones that shipped out. For the same reason j will replace the deck screws today. I don't expect it to solve the flavor issue but In my world when you're at a point that nothing seems to be working if you have spare parts and there's even a .1% chance those parts can fix the issue. You have to do it. The chance GP sent lower than 316L surely is so low it would be considered practically impossible. But when you introduce other suppliers you certainly have to increase form Practically impossible to extremely unlikely. So why not change to rule it out ? Again I have six weeks and no way to get it back so at this point I may as well do every bit of troubleshooting I can right? I do understand that it's very unlikely. In. My field I've seen a few things happen that are considered very unlikely and it ends up being the issues - like a trans continental lan. failing due to a pin out inside one connector being .25mm too short (true story!). Biggest mistake one can make is labeling hints as impossible when they're just very unlikely I do get your point though and honestly if I could get this off to them I wouldn't spend the time doing all this. It's here. I'm here. I may as well remove any chance of fault If I replace the o rings and the decks crews and still have flavor issues we can effectively say that it's not the ancillary products.

For me the fiddly part is wick. And that's based on my preferred wick and juice. The issue that I've run into in early use js using a dense wick In tightly with a 2.5mm coil. It's just a lot of cotton to get trough the wick holes. I may do a split wick and drop half down and put half through. Or do a tape build. I'll focus more on that when the flavor is right.



Thanks as always for your thoughts. I tried a new coil last night with 26 gauge kanthal. I wish I had a 510 adaptor for the heron so k could grow a nickel build in there or titanium or stainless steel. I don't vape kanthal much these days. Maybe I'm just super sensitive to the kanthal taste now. But I don't taste it in my gem. That said I'm going to build a stainless steel coil today and try it. I want to see that it's the heat directly affecting the flavor. I also need to rule out its the battery polluting the flavor. Like its emitting an odor that's being breathed into the air intake and polluting the flavor. Also unlikely by probably worth testing to get tank off the mod. So maybe I have to order a 510
Adaptor to
See

This situation is so strange - as you,GP, and I have all stated. So at some point unlikely things have to be considered. These are juices and coil wire I've used in many other devices. Wick I've used. And I've even bought new stuff to try and resolve it. So all the way around it's probably time to try things to remedy t which seem unlikely to fix.

If we worked with Occam's razor we'd just say. Heat is present t at the time the taste goes bad so it's got to be something with how something in the path of inhale heats.

I'll Order the 510 when I get the 650 paps tube unfortunately that probably has to wait a while too as I just got clobbered with an unexpected medical bill when my insurance decided not to cover something. All the pennies count! When I pass along the wae ii or something ill redirect those funds to GP products if there available then.[/QUOTE]
Wishing you a speedy recovery!

I don't where I contribute much more aid to the coil/wick building. It seems a puzzle to me too.

glad you got some of the gap issues resolved.

As far as the chimney goes, I've never tried twisting it off. I always used my fingernail to pry it off one side at a time. I usually catch my fingernail on one port hole, pry it up a bit, then flip to the other port and repeat.

BTW, I've tried several different types of filler material starting with my spheroid but the GP fluff v2 just seems superior to the other fillers I could source easily. (and I'm not just saying that because I like GP products)

Maybe I haven't gotten my build down right but I've been happier with the fluff build than I have with the fluffless build. For my earlier attempts I found the tank build to be too saturated for my liking and then would encounter dry hits while chain vaping - likely because there was something wrong with my build/wick.

I admittedly didn't put much effort in perfecting the tank build because I have several tank RBAs that I've abandoned because of the inherent issues - pressure/vacuum issues, consistent wick density for proper use.

So I'm back to what has kept me on the Heron since the first release: an easily repeatable build that doesn't have to change while on my infrequent travels. Heck, I don't even bother emptying my tank when I travel. Try that with other tasks that don't have an adjustable flow control

 

[Firestorm]

As far as the chimney goes, I've never tried twisting it off. I always used my fingernail to pry it off one side at a time. I usually catch my fingernail on one port hole, pry it up a bit, then flip to the other port and repeat.

Yeah, the topper isn't threaded (it's press fit) so I've never tried twisting it off either. I similarly use a small flathead screwdriver to lift it up and then gently pry it off from different sides (insert flathead and twist the screwdriver to raise it up). I try to avoid using my fingernails as levers if I can.

 

[qorax]

I use a pair of tweezers (or a long nose pliers), grabbing it from one of the feed holes, to pinch it out. The topper that is.